Adjusting HKS Actuator???

[drift925]

Well I'm stuck, I shortened the rod to the point where I can barely connect it to the wastegate flapper but I'm still only boosting 7 psi??? I'm trying to hit 1bar and I thought the shorter the rod the more you boost? By the way I'm getting my vacuum off my hotpipe and I'm running a stock T25 turbo on my s13. Any ideas?? Thanks

[lok]

Well I'm stuck, I shortened the rod to the point where I can barely connect it to the wastegate flapper but I'm still only boosting 7 psi??? I'm trying to hit 1bar and I thought the shorter the rod the more you boost? By the way I'm getting my vacuum off my hotpipe and I'm running a stock T25 turbo on my s13. Any ideas?? Thanks

the stock t25 is not going to get you 1bar.

do you have the supporting mods for more boost?

overboosting the stock t25 is enough to blow your motor.

[louisdaboois]

the stock t25 is not going to get you 1bar.

do you have the supporting mods for more boost?

overboosting the stock t25 is enough to blow your motor.

a t25 has capabilities of producing more than a bar of boost. whether it's efficient or not is another story.

if on an sr, running 14psi is fine, rich as dog shit, but you shouldnt have to do anything more than lean it out get a substantial gain.

but for you only running 7psi with an hks actuator, i have no clue.... possibly the diaphram isn't up to par? I just screwed it down all the way until i literally had to pull the rod to hook onto the flapper. I'm running consistently 13psi. (im too lazy to tighten it up to get that extra lb)but the diaphram being messed up is the only thing i can think of....

[fliprayzin240sx]

Keep tightening it until you get to the boost your shooting for. Dont shorten the arm with it off the flapper, keep it on and just keep tightening it.

But before you do this, make sure you dont have a boost/vacuum leak...

[rps13sr20]

Well I'm stuck, I shortened the rod to the point where I can barely connect it to the wastegate flapper but I'm still only boosting 7 psi??? I'm trying to hit 1bar and I thought the shorter the rod the more you boost? By the way I'm getting my vacuum off my hotpipe and I'm running a stock T25 turbo on my s13. Any ideas?? Thanks

When you shortened the rod length to "barely connect it" did you still clip it on with ease or did you muscle it?

I made the mistake of just shortening the rod length to when the end of it met the flap of the wastegate, the first time. Then my friend told me I was suppose to shorten beyond that and then "man handle" the rod to clip on, if I wanted more boost. When you pull rod (away from the actuator) it tightens the spring in the actuator, making it require more pressure (ending in more psi,boost etc) to open the wastegate.

If it is still boosting 7psi after pulling the shit out of the rod then it's most likely you diaphram, and your going have to get a new one.

[rps13sr20]

Keep tightening it until you get to the boost your shooting for. Dont shorten the arm with it off the flapper, keep it on and just keep tightening it.

But before you do this, make sure you dont have a boost/vacuum leak...

You actual can't tighten it with it on the flapper of the wastegate. Your suppose to take it out because you won't be able to with it on. The part the connects to the flapper and adjust the rod length won't be able to twist because the the thread that controls the rod length is on the rod. Basically cuz the rod alone doesn't twist, its the part you adjust the length does.

[Volchok]

are you running a smic or fmic? with the stock smic you can detach the actuator all together and still be at 7 psi. switch to a fmic and you will actually be able to use the HKS actuator to its full potential and easily get anywhere from 10-14 psi out of the t25. i would recommend staying at 12 with a stock FPR, injectors and fuel management, up to 14 psi with a ECU flash.

[fliprayzin240sx]

You actual can't tighten it with it on the flapper of the wastegate. Your suppose to take it out because you won't be able to with it on. The part the connects to the flapper and adjust the rod length won't be able to twist because the the thread that controls the rod length is on the rod. Basically cuz the rod alone doesn't twist, its the part you adjust the length does.

Ive done it with the flapper connected, didnt have a problem with it. Nothing that a vice grip wont be able to accomplish.

If you wanna shorten it off the flapper and have an access to a compressor to have the actuator open up, then that will make life alot easier.

[rps13sr20]

Ive done it with the flapper connected, didnt have a problem with it. Nothing that a vice grip wont be able to accomplish.

If you wanna shorten it off the flapper and have an access to a compressor to have the actuator open up, then that will make life alot easier.

I'll be sure to to try that out, thanks. I end up getting a cut on my hand most of the time I'm adjusting my actuator.

[Volchok]

i totally disagree with adjusting the actuator while it is connected, you have to turn the end of the rod, the only parts that is adjustable as you probably know. if it is connected, how would it turn? a small tip is to take a piece of wire, I used a striped wire tie, to attach the clip that holds the actuator on to the rod itself so you can just pull on the wire to remove it and you will never lose it. then use a vise grip to grab the nut after lengthening/shortening the rod and pull it on the to hinge. also, if you have a stock smic you are wasting your time as mentioned before.

[Moon Ill]

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/207539-hks-actuator-install.html

From reading this thread and the one of the link I posted I'm assuming that the actuator is a force fit.

I too have it adjusted as far as it will go out without the rod flexing when trying to attached it to the compressor housing. The result of that is stock boost (well .5 bar anyway).

I'll try and force it on tomorrow morning and come back with the results (since there aren't any)


btw.

IMPOSSIBLE to adjust it while it's on:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/mOONiLL/For%20Sale/sale050.jpg
The end is closed and slides over a pin. ..then again if you twisted it at the actuator side instead of ... no that wouldn't work either. If you notice on the left side of the bracket there is a perpendicular that keeps that keeps the assembly from rotating.

[projectRDM]

I can't speak for the HKS unit, but most actuator rods rotate within the diaphragm, meaning that even though the rod is clipped to the wastegate lever you can still turn the rod and thread it in/out. I did a lot of diesel work a few years ago and most turbos with adjustable actuators work that way. If not, unbolt it from the bracket momentarily and twist the entire unit with the rod attached, it will have to turn if the rod itself doesn't turn within the diaphragm. You can also put a lot more tension on the rod by pulling/twisting the entire unit.

[Moon Ill]

It seems if I put more tension on it, the rod flex. I'm not sure if this is ok. I'll call HKS :-P

On their contact it says:

NOTE: HKS USA’s headquarters are closed to the general public, please contact a HKS Authorized Dealer with any inquiries.

[tr0n9h]

do not turn it while the rod is connected to the flapper. you will mess up the internal diaphram. I know because my old wastegate got mess up from doing that.

[zaquanh]

It seems if I put more tension on it, the rod flex. I'm not sure if this is ok. I'll call HKS :-P

On their contact it says:

i have the hks number in my cell , that statement isnt true i called them on friday and talked to them about a hks actuator , cuz i asked the same questions ,

you need to screw it down and force the shit out of it to reach the turbo ,

you cant do it while its on the turbo because the part of the rod you need to turn would be attached to the turbo , you can unhook it from the turbo tho and leave the bracket on still , adj and put it back , you can run up to 14lbs on it ,

the best is at 11 to 12 on a hks actuator with a t25 , said by quote from a guy at hks

[cotbu]

do not turn it while the rod is connected to the flapper. you will mess up the internal diaphram. I know because my old wastegate got mess up from doing that.
Misinformation is a bad thing. I'll ask this what do you do if the eye whole, doesn't line up with a stock wastegate? (non adjastable?)

I use the hks actuator, and have my low boost set to 13.96psi, higher boost setting are controlled by blitz. I set it by spinning the actuator rod, while connected to the flapper.
Vice grips to tight, to loosen there's grip tape.

I agree with most members, saying you don't have it adjusted short enough because you would be complaining about getting it on the flapper.
My technique requires vise gripes, an allen wrench and random wire...Lock vise gripes on allen key, then place short L side in eye whole, then push forward towards flapper. while flapper is held closed by the wire.

[SoSideways]

Or just work out and grow some damn muscles in your arms so you can pull the actuator arm and put it on the flapper.

Geez...

[hawkster183]

is there a certain length that it should be in order to boost 12psi. i measured a friends stock t28 actuator and its 6 inches. i dont have a boost controller so idk whats 12 psi but im just curious to know about how long it should be in order to boost around 12psi. if someone could pm me that would be great.

[xpl2007]

Let me say a couple things here first. The car i got before with sr came set at 11.5 ish psi. In Japan they hack the oem actuator. I then got HKS and turned it to 15 psi. I ran an ecu, exhaust, intake, and 100 octane. I ran that all day long for 1 year. And without a blow off valve. No play! And i drifted the shit and ran the mountains. This was back in the day ask around. Never any probs. But manifold came loose sometime, drifting. And sometime vac leak as usual. So either your HKS is wack, dont pull on it the diaphram will go bad, make sure all hoses are right, and when you get tight it will turn up boost. 12 is safe on a t25. 15 is pushing it on oem stock set up. I ran 100 ocane with a Blitz ECU stage 2 i think. SO it was lean im sure. Fast as fk to. Ran against 03 zo6s. So becarefull make sure your gauges are reading right. On my 2nd set up i was smart enough to get a wideband. Get 1.!

[import_z]

wow old thread, but intead of pulling the shit out of the rod to the flapper, just shout some air on the actuator so the rod pops out!


BTW thanks to the guy that called HKS for the info, I got the source of my problem!

[EsChassisLove]

Why arent you running an external is the question