DTRL Wiring Help

[krayzbigmac]

Hey Guys,
I need some help with wiring up my DTRLs on my s13. I searched around and didn't find too much. But for all of you that are runing DTRLs where and how did you wire them? I want to be able to have a switch for them so I can turn them on whenever, but when I turn the car off I want them to turn off(just incase I forget to turn them off). And/or have them on when my headlights are on. I don't know if I am making any sense at all, lol. But any help or pics will be greatly appreciated. :x: Thanks.

[g6civcx]

It makes perfect sense.

What you want to do sounds like custom wiring. That's not how Candian DTRL works, and you won't find a schematic like that anywhere.

It's doable. You need 2 relays and 1 switch. Generally, you use 1 relay to provide ignition key-on power. You use the other relay in series with the first relay to give power when the headlights are on. The switch you wire in parallel with the 2nd relay to supply power on demand.

The problem will be current collision when both the relay and the switch are on.

I recommend using 3 relays and 1 switch, and use 1 relay to send power to the lights. You use the other 2 relays and switch to provide ground to the first relay. This way, if anything shows ground, the 1st relay will trip and power the light. You don't have to worry about current collision when you build negative-triggered system because exposing a wire to 2 grounds is no problem.


Read up a little bit and think it through. If you still have questions I'll do a schematic for you. It's actually quite simple if you think about it.

[krayzbigmac]

I'm not so great as far as electronics. If you can do that schematic for me it would help BIG time. +1 for you.

[articdragon192]

ON my old 13, I had them wired up with my parking lamps. They turn on when the lights go on, and that's it. Do it that way. Just splice into the parking lamp wiring.

[g6civcx]

Do you know how a standard 4-pin relay works? Read up on it a little bit. It'll help you understand the circuit.

Working on diagram...

[g6civcx]

First, I assume that you're running comparable light bulbs to stock. Canadian DRLs are really low wattage bulbs. If you run something with a higher wattage rating, you need to bump up the fuse, wire gauge, and switch rating.

For a stock DRL system, 10A is fine. Make sure you use at least 16AWG wires and that your switch can hold at least 10A. Most relays can hold 30-40A so you're good there.

The main relay sends power to each DRL. The relay is grounded by

a) any key on power source, like ignition, ECU, fuel pump, radio, anything you want. You will be pulling very small amounts of curren, like in the mA area so you don't have to worry about overloading the neighboring circuit;

and b) the headlight bulb. Same idea here. Just tap any headlight you like the DRL to come with, like low beam, hi beam, parking, whatever. Pick one and tap it.


When the key is off, no current flows in the key on relay and the DRLs do not get power.

When the key is on, current then flows to either the headlight relay or the switch.


With either the headlights being on, the switch being on, or both, the circuit completes to ground, which trips the main relay and sends power to the DRL.


As for relays, you can use standard 4-pin relays they sell for autos anywhere.

Questions?

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/8871/drlmi4.jpg

[krayzbigmac]

WOAH, thanks for the diagram. I should be able to figure it out from here. If anything i'll hit you up with a pm. Thanks alot man!

[projectRDM]

The Canadian DRLs can't handle any higher wattage bulbs without melting the casing, so you're fine with just tying into the parking lamp circuit if that's all you're after. Otherwise, a switch through a relay off the ignition will keep them from staying on after you take the key out.

[SHIFT_*grind*]

And fabbing a new casing is probably the only way to get them to handle more wattage...right?

[g6civcx]

you're fine with just tying into the parking lamp circuit if that's all you're after

While I tend to agree, I would want to err on the side of caution and say don't do this because there's no telling what kind of bulbs and what shape the parking light circuit is in.

[hotlavaflow]

I wired mine with 1 relay and a switch which means I have to remember to turn them off but it's not to hard being that I have HID's in there. Kinda hard to miss.

[racepar1]

S-13's have wiring already in the harness for fog lights. There is a spot for a relay in the relaybox under the intake box, a connector for a factory switch under the dash on the driver's side, and a two pin connector by the battery (one orange wire, one black). All you need to make it work with the wiring that is already present is a blue relay, get the OE switch from the dealer (about $20), and make your own harness to go from the connector by the battery to the lights themselves. There are 2 problems though:
1: I may have gotten the last switch in the US when I wired up my silvia foglights like this as when I ordered it it was special order, but in-stock at the warehouse. When I called back because they were lagging the part was backordered acdcording to their computers. This problem can be resolved by simply using a toggle switch with the stock wiring, not really a big deal.
2:Using the stock wiring the lights will only come on when the headlights are on and will go off when you turn your brights on. If you have or are planning to upgrade to HID's it isn't much of a problem, but if you plan to run your stock bulbs or do an h4 conversion it may be a problem. I'm sure there is a way to bypass the auto off when the brights are on somehow, but it will take some staring at wiring diagrams.

[wmdavis007]

S-13's have wiring already in the harness for fog lights. There is a spot for a relay in the relaybox under the intake box, a connector for a factory switch under the dash on the driver's side, and a two pin connector by the battery (one orange wire, one black). All you need to make it work with the wiring that is already present is a blue relay, get the OE switch from the dealer (about $20), and make your own harness to go from the connector by the battery to the lights themselves.

---Rise from the dead old thread!---

I'm working on doing this on my 240. I got a JDM fog light switch that plugged into the empty harness plug under the dash...fit perfect and lights up as well.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w25/wmdavis007/PIC-0129.jpg
Here is the back...it's the one on the right:
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w25/wmdavis007/PIC-0098.jpg
Here are the two fog light switches I have...the one on the left is broken, the one on the right is the one I used:
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w25/wmdavis007/PIC-0097.jpg
I have my CDRL's installed now I just need to order a fog light relay and run the wires from the plug near the battery box (which I haven't located...but I haven't looked very good yet). Anyone have a picture of where the plug is? Hopefully I'll be able to finish this in the next few weeks...soon as I do I'll post more.

[wmdavis007]

I found the plug for the fog lights behind the battery...here is a picture:
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w25/wmdavis007/PIC-0130-1.jpg
I ordered my fog light relay last night and should get to the wiring soon after it arrives.

[wmdavis007]

Got the fog light relay in yesterday.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w25/wmdavis007/PIC-0132.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w25/wmdavis007/PIC-0133.jpg

Hopefully I'll get to the wiring this weekend :x:.

[STLTHB13S13]

Sorry for bringing up old dead threads but i just got the DTRL's and i was planning to run HID's in them. is that ok without melting the housings? also could someone make a diagram of how to wire it a way to have them on at all times when car is running but turns off when car is off? i understand the pictures alot better than the wording. can you run HID's from parking lights? im 99% positive there is not enough power there. Online it says CDTRL's are 55 watt H3 bulbs. is that correct information aswell? should i just git 35 watt H3 HID kit?

[hotlavaflow]

I had to remove a square of the top plastic (because it'll melt) and replace it with a square piece of aluminum. I used gasket sealer around it to waterproof it and screwed it down. Sounds like a lot but it's not and worth it for the HID's.

Dremel tool is your friend.

[krayzbigmac]

I had to remove a square of the top plastic (because it'll melt) and replace it with a square piece of aluminum. I used gasket sealer around it to waterproof it and screwed it down. Sounds like a lot but it's not and worth it for the HID's.

Dremel tool is your friend.
Any chance you have pics of the aluminum piece and/or pics with the lights installed? Curious to see what they look like.

[projectRDM]

Sorry for bringing up old dead threads but i just got the DTRL's and i was planning to run HID's in them. is that ok without melting the housings? also could someone make a diagram of how to wire it a way to have them on at all times when car is running but turns off when car is off? i understand the pictures alot better than the wording. can you run HID's from parking lights? im 99% positive there is not enough power there. Online it says CDTRL's are 55 watt H3 bulbs. is that correct information aswell? should i just git 35 watt H3 HID kit?

The DTRLs are NOT H3 bulbs, I know that for certain. More like an 1156 or a wedge type bulb. People have tried using them as fogs and melted the housings, so they're no more than say 17watt OE. Anything else is too much.

[g6civcx]

The DTRLs are NOT H3 bulbs, I know that for certain. More like an 1156 or a wedge type bulb. People have tried using them as fogs and melted the housings, so they're no more than say 17watt OE. Anything else is too much.

How many times have we said this before? Don't try to pull more power than what the stock system was designed to handle.

If you need more power, use your own components and wiring.

[RPSil13]

Working on diagram...


+1 for making a diagram for the OP, from your posts it seems like your a really cool guy who's willing to help, kudos, we need more helpful people like you on zilvia,


sorry for the OT guys, but someone needs to thank this guy, :w00t:

[STLTHB13S13]

yea if you had pics of the aluminum plate that would be awesome. i'd love to see.

here are my housings.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/fastcars10/IMG_4124.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/fastcars10/IMG_4125.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/fastcars10/IMG_4123.jpg

those will melt huh? with the aluminum piece it can withstand hid's?
any other methods to prevent melting?
And thanks for any help you can give. i really appricite all what your doing.

[hotlavaflow]

if it doesn't rain tomorrow i'll pull them out and take pics

[STLTHB13S13]

take any pics by anychance?

[hotlavaflow]

Sorry man didn't get a chance but I'll get some by the weekend

[STLTHB13S13]

any pics of it?

[g6civcx]

any other methods to prevent melting?

You need the housing to be able to withstand the heat. Either get a custom housing or try to fit an aftermarket housing and try to fit that into your bumper.