Excessive Fuel Consumption on KA24de

[NismoS13Chuki]

so for some reason im only averaging 11mpg in city and on the highway my mileage is even worse. City where i live isnt much stop and go.

[0wn3r]

lol wow. time for a tune up

[NismoS13Chuki]

hope that does it but will a deleted egr do the same

[chininsan]

I had the same problem with mine. I decided to take the proccess of emlimination route. After changing tps and some other sensors i change the 02 sensor out and it made a world of difference the car doesnt' sputter and gets awesome gas mileage compared to before.

[MELLO*SOS]

plugs, wires, cap, rotor, reset timing, change fluids, check/replace o2 sensor, new panel filter, check for vac leaks, check fuel pressure/FPR, pull codes off ECU... @ 11mpg something is seriously wrong with your DE.

[NismoS13Chuki]

plugs, wires, cap, rotor, reset timing, change fluids, check/replace o2 sensor, new panel filter, check for vac leaks, check fuel pressure/FPR, pull codes off ECU... @ 11mpg something is seriously wrong with your DE.
question how do you pull the codes off the ecu 2nd timing is on point but i think tps might be on the shits cuz idle didnt drop or change slightly when unplugged, 3rd intake no panel filter, and 4th no vac leaks.

[NismoS13Chuki]

looked up how to check the codes and the only code found was the eg sensor which is obvious because i dont have it

[MELLO*SOS]

question how do you pull the codes off the ecu 2nd timing is on point but i think tps might be on the shits cuz idle didnt drop or change slightly when unplugged, 3rd intake no panel filter, and 4th no vac leaks.

To pull the codes, turn the key to on position with the motor off. pull the kick panel and stuff off the ECU and unbolt the ecu from the body but leave the connector hooked up. Flip the ECU around so you can see the red LED and the potentiometer. Use a slot screwdriver and rotate the potentio knob to the right all the way, leave it for a few seconds, then flip it back all the way to the left. That puts it to code readout mode, now count the flashes off the red LED. Slow flashes are worth 10 "points" and fast flashes are worth 1 "point". There is a longer pause between codes. Codes will read out in a long loop, 55 means "everything is OK" but hopefully you have some other useful codes stored in there. After you get the codes rotate the knob again to the right for 3 seconds, then rotate it back to put it into normal mode. This will erase all the codes on your ECU. fire up the car and go for a drive around the block, come home and do the whole process all over again to see what codes came back right away.

K you can use a multimeter to read your TPS signal at idle, should be .5v iirc. You can loosen the 2 screws to adjust the TPS value at idle, read the FSM, but I think on the KA (and most nissans) you set it to .5v. Now you need to set your idle speed using the idle speed screw. I think you set the speed to 650 with the TPS unhooked, do your base timing, then reattach the TPS. The whole procedure is listed in the FSM, you need to download and read it if you haven't already it has all this stuff in it.

Just sounds like your car needs a basic tune up, if it's been a while since you did that you'll probably feel a nice difference after you replace the stuff that wears out. Also go read about doing the seafoam or TB cleaner thru the IACV line sometimes the gunk inside the intake screws with idle and power a little.

GL

[DohcKA]

woooooo im on the same boat... i get about 15miles to the gallon

[NismoS13Chuki]

To pull the codes, turn the key to on position with the motor off. pull the kick panel and stuff off the ECU and unbolt the ecu from the body but leave the connector hooked up. Flip the ECU around so you can see the red LED and the potentiometer. Use a slot screwdriver and rotate the potentio knob to the right all the way, leave it for a few seconds, then flip it back all the way to the left. That puts it to code readout mode, now count the flashes off the red LED. Slow flashes are worth 10 "points" and fast flashes are worth 1 "point". There is a longer pause between codes. Codes will read out in a long loop, 55 means "everything is OK" but hopefully you have some other useful codes stored in there. After you get the codes rotate the knob again to the right for 3 seconds, then rotate it back to put it into normal mode. This will erase all the codes on your ECU. fire up the car and go for a drive around the block, come home and do the whole process all over again to see what codes came back right away.

K you can use a multimeter to read your TPS signal at idle, should be .5v iirc. You can loosen the 2 screws to adjust the TPS value at idle, read the FSM, but I think on the KA (and most nissans) you set it to .5v. Now you need to set your idle speed using the idle speed screw. I think you set the speed to 650 with the TPS unhooked, do your base timing, then reattach the TPS. The whole procedure is listed in the FSM, you need to download and read it if you haven't already it has all this stuff in it.

Just sounds like your car needs a basic tune up, if it's been a while since you did that you'll probably feel a nice difference after you replace the stuff that wears out. Also go read about doing the seafoam or TB cleaner thru the IACV line sometimes the gunk inside the intake screws with idle and power a little.

GL
so far i have changed the spark plugs and nothing really happened. as for timing i already checked and adjusted as for tps when i unplug tps nothing happens. i can literally drive without the tps with no problem. in fact i have after adjust the timing to specs. i had forgot to reconnect.

[flip3d]

Hit me up on AIM. You know my s/n.

[MELLO*SOS]

so far i have changed the spark plugs and nothing really happened. as for timing i already checked and adjusted as for tps when i unplug tps nothing happens. i can literally drive without the tps with no problem. in fact i have after adjust the timing to specs. i had forgot to reconnect.

You should hear the idle RPM increase when you unplug the TPS... I think you set it to 850 then when you replug the TPS it drops back down to like 650 or so. Been a little while since I did my KA, I can't really remember... FSM it...

how is your O2 sensor? I would start with all the basics and replace that stuff since you have no codes on the ECU... Air filter, fluids, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, clean MAF, chk/replace o2 sensor, etc..

[NismoS13Chuki]

You should hear the idle RPM increase when you unplug the TPS... I think you set it to 850 then when you replug the TPS it drops back down to like 650 or so. Been a little while since I did my KA, I can't really remember... FSM it...

how is your O2 sensor? I would start with all the basics and replace that stuff since you have no codes on the ECU... Air filter, fluids, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, clean MAF, chk/replace o2 sensor, etc..
well on my car tps connected 700rpm tps disconnected 700rpm and also it starting to drop the forth cylinder. i get spark so i think the injector is sticking as for ignition hopefully i will be getting an msd blaster 2 coil with the 6AL box and 8mm wires. The o2 sensor im not so sure about and is what may also be my problem as it looks like the wire has chaffed or been spliced before. really didnt feel like unwrapping the electrical tape. Cts may also be an issue from what i here. how do you check it and the tps. Also could all this be the result of a faulty computer

[NismoS13Chuki]

Tps readings idle. 1mv tap throttle a little bit and it shoots up to 12 volts right away. Cts is running .87x volts. o2 is going up and down from .9xx v max to .2xx v min. NO IACV