A Better Radiator

[On2]

C&R Racing has a universal DUAL PASS radiator that should fit perfectly into the 240SX.

26" (perfect) X 18 5/8" (about 1" higher) X 3", passenger side inlet (1 1/4") and passenger side outlet. You may have to run an adapter on the lower hose.

The price is around $330.00 shipped for a badass universal radiator. The one they have that fits perfectly into the 240SX is over $700.00 shipped.

And I'm sure this beats the heck out of Mishimoto, Koyo, Griffin, Fluidyne, ARC, GReddy, Yashio Factory, Blitz and all those brands for a much better price.

There are many other domestic dual pass brands available in the same dimensions for about $220 shipped.

[idahotuner]

i got my mishimoto for 200 dollars shipped to my house. and it works great.

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

I used my stock radiator and never over heated once... My friends over heat with their koyo's and griffins before i do... Oem ftw!!

[Brian]

Out of curiosity, WHY is that one better than all the other ones you listed?

[Dousan_PG]

probably got a hook up
gotta run the sponsors names out

typical

[spool_sample]

Out of curiosity, WHY is that one better than all the other ones you listed?

+1

There are plenty of people on here running the other rads you mentioned with no issue.

This sounds like it's just regurgitated information from that 240 radiator test website thing, but without the hard evidence to make a point.

And why did you make another thread for this?

[ronmcdon]

only aftermarket radiator i've ever had trouble with was a C&R half size. think it was really meant for drag racing (which i'm not so muchb into), but I didn't know any better. plus the price was cheap, so I couldn't resist. this was on my old civic doing hpde's w/ 30 min runs. my car had some overheating issues at the end of each run. maybe it was too small and just inappropriate for what it was used for. for DD, it was just fine.

I've owned several full size aluminum koyos in 3-5 different cars also doing hpde's. never had any issues with those.

[gregfarz78]

Nissan OEM parts are generally pretty good quality unless you really need aftermarket for drag racing/drifting

[kenshinS14sks]

*edit* on second thought. .. maybe not a bot. . . not really a post with any substantial evidence though . . sounds like an infomercial

[CKAMC]

(yeah this c&r post sounds like an infomercial)

Problem I see with aluminum radiators is the aluminum part.

most of the koyo's sold are only two row and aluminum... and people bitch about them overheating

some of these other brands like Sards, Yashio and probably a few others are available in 3 row thickness and copper.

Had a friend with a OEM R33 GTR Radiator, which looks and measures about the same thinkness of stock but, its copper. with his rb20 mounted with a t04... he hasn't ever overheated... IN ARIZONA

copper radiator sounds like a solid deal.

[On2]

Out of curiosity, WHY is that one better than all the other ones you listed? I believe it is better because of the crossflow design and the double pass, which from what I have researched (on this forum and others) is more effective in cooling than a single pass.

C&R Racing used to make a double pass radiator for the 240SX, but has since discontinued it. They will make it for you, but it will cost you over $700 for a mere size differance (2" shorter height).

There are several owners of the C&R Racing 240SX double pass radiator that have posted their experiences on this forum and other 240SX forums stating that they experience constant low temperatures even while idling at stop lights and while racing, drifting, etc.
probably got a hook up
gotta run the sponsors names out

typical No hookup. The price I stated was the same price I paid. My car is being built for my own enjoyment. I am not drifting or doing any sort of competition. And besides if I was plugging a sponsor I wouldn't have mentioned that there are other domestic double pass radiators available for around $220 shipped (like some on Summit Racing), AFCO, and others you can find by simply Googling. Those other no-namer domestic brands could potentially be better than the C&R Racing, but we won't know till someone tests them out. There are many domestic branded double pass radiators available in the 26" X 18" size.
+1

There are plenty of people on here running the other rads you mentioned with no issue.

This sounds like it's just regurgitated information from that 240 radiator test website thing, but without the hard evidence to make a point.

And why did you make another thread for this? Yes I know others are using the other brands mentioned without problems. They are good radiators. Some of them are outrageously priced though. I am merely making a suggestion for a double pass radiator that is very reasonably priced. Typically double pass radiators cost more like the new Koyo N-Flow (about $100 more than a regular Koyo), however that is for the SR20DET only.

Can you point me to the 240SX radiator test website? I did not know of this site.
*edit* on second thought. .. maybe not a bot. . . not really a post with any substantial evidence though . . sounds like an infomercial Sorry, didn't mean to found like an infomercial. I was just trying to let others know that there is a potentially better alternative for around the same price that others are paying for their Koyos.

[jspecusa]

most people have problem with overheating on stock radiator is because it's old and need to be flush out, or most people don't know how to bleed the radiator correctly(it's not just fill it to the top and that's it).
the reason why aluminum radiator is the choice for most companies is because it's bling bling(adds value) and it's light good for weight reduction.
I perfer copper over aluminum due to cooling, lower cost, and more oem look.
btw, stock nissan intercooler and radiator is made by calsonic, which is better then most of the aftermarket out there.
super gt nissan cars run on calsonic, that means it's truely engineered not just made by guessing.
cheers,

sam

[drift freaq]

If your going to run after market I prefer a Griffin. I have run them and had no problems and I know of no one that has ever had a problem with them.
In the case of a custom swap sometimes there is no choice but to go after market.

To the OP I suggest you not blindly dis other radiator brands unless you have experience with them both Fluidyne and Griffin are considered to be very top notch radiators and work well with our cars. Oh and having your radiator be 1 inch taller in our cars is a significant size issue. There is a reason the radiators are the height they are for our cars, its called proper fitment.

[onepuff]

94-01 Integra Fluidyne radiator upper outlet is about 2 inches off to the driver's side. Same dimensions as S14 KA. Generally $150 less

[S14DB]

I want to know how to fit a 2" taller radiator in our cars. Cause I have one that is 1" taller and I can't close my hood.

[nolsdneeded]

i recently got my mishimoto for 200, and i cant complain. i have a stock SR rad if anyone needs one PM me with an offer.

[On2]

Oh and having your radiator be 1 inch taller in our cars is a significant size issue. There is a reason the radiators are the height they are for our cars, its called proper fitment.
I took measurements before I ordered. This 18 5/8" tall radiator will fit fine.

[On2]

I want to know how to fit a 2" taller radiator in our cars. Cause I have one that is 1" taller and I can't close my hood. I got the radiator today. It is actually 19" tall. But I still have room to spare, which is probably due to my vented hood, but I still think it should fit the stock hood. You can always test it out by making a 19" tall template out of cardboard. Check out the pics compared to my GReddy radiator for the SR20DET.

Hood clearance, still a lot of room left. Hood is closed all the way. This is an M-Sports style fiberglass hood if you are wondering. Many manufacturers have this hood under different names.

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/8656/img6398hp4.th.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6398hp4.jpg) http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/9845/img6397vw9.th.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6397vw9.jpg)

Taller, but it fits.

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/2285/img6400jo2.th.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6400jo2.jpg) http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/2498/img6402ta8.th.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6402ta8.jpg) http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/9783/img6403oh6.th.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6403oh6.jpg)

Wider, but still has about half an inch on each side. Maybe the C&R 28" will fit with modification.

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/7877/img6404os6.th.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6404os6.jpg)

Thicker, a lot thicker.

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/8223/img6401fo0.th.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6401fo0.jpg)

C&R on left, Greddy on right

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/7227/img6405pe3.th.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6405pe3.jpg) http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/5033/img6406qh5.th.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6406qh5.jpg)

Quarter to get an idea of the size.

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/7213/img6416aj9.th.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6416aj9.jpg) http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/4112/img6417rw1.th.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6417rw1.jpg)

C&R left and right clearances

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/289/img6424uk2.th.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6424uk2.jpg) http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/9122/img6425wc2.th.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6425wc2.jpg)

Greddy left and right clearances

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/3782/img6418nx8.th.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6418nx8.jpg) http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/7438/img6421zm3.th.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6421zm3.jpg)

C&R back side, passenger side inlet and outlet ideal for KA or LS1. You can get the outlet hose lower if you want.

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/2494/img6427ii3.th.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img6427ii3.jpg)

[S14DB]

Yeah I have to think it's your hood. How did you bolt that thing down?

[On2]

Yeah I have to think it's your hood. How did you bolt that thing down? I'm going to fab some brackets and a dual electric fan shroud. Fans will be controlled by a thermostat as well as the electric water pump.

[MadScientist]

And I'm sure this beats the heck out of Mishimoto, Koyo, Griffin, Fluidyne, ARC, GReddy, Yashio Factory, Blitz and all those brands for a much better price.

These 2 Brands shouldn't have even be in you brain when compairing against other brands.
Anyone and I mean ANYONE who has owned an ARC or the Yashio R-spec will Vow that they are FAR better and worth every red cent! I had a Yashio and thought it would only be trumped by the ARC... its damn near dead even!!
I have seen the testing done on the C&R/Koyo/ and Stock with all sorts of fans and shrouds... the C&R dual pass did win but that was on Altama fans and a factory Shroud.

I WILL... post up temps of the ARC once the SR is back in and running.

Price... yes the ARC is in the $1600 range... but the Yashio R is around $400ish.

-Drew

[On2]

These 2 Brands shouldn't have even be in you brain when compairing against other brands.
Anyone and I mean ANYONE who has owned an ARC or the Yashio R-spec will Vow that they are FAR better and worth every red cent! I had a Yashio and thought it would only be trumped by the ARC... its damn near dead even!!
I have seen the testing done on the C&R/Koyo/ and Stock with all sorts of fans and shrouds... the C&R dual pass did win but that was on Altama fans and a factory Shroud.

I WILL... post up temps of the ARC once the SR is back in and running.

Price... yes the ARC is in the $1600 range... but the Yashio R is around $400ish.

-Drew
This one?

http://home.satx.rr.com/nissanweb/RadTest/RadTest.htm

[LongGrain]

i have a koyo with dual FAL fans, works great..