removing axles

[whereda40at]

i looked for write ups on how to do it but i can find it for the s13. can someone send me to a write up on how to do this. thanks

[Dutchmalmiss]

1. remove bolts that connect axles to diff
2. remove bolts that hold diff to subframe
3. drop or remove diff
3. remove cotter pin on end of axle
4. remove big nut holding axle to hub/spindle (forgot what size, it's at autozone, tough)
4. slide the axles out
5. take a shot of patron and thank Dutchmalmiss

[naed240sx]

Thats all right except you might have to give the axle a whack or spay it down with pbblaster to get it to slide out of the spindle. Just remember to be careful with the threads.

[slider2828]

For sure there is a write up for this... Look harder.... Try searching for 5 lug swap on google. There is a wiki for it.

When whack it, some people say thead the nut on it at the very end of the shaft.... DONT DO THIS, it will mess up the threads a little.... Use a telephone book instead...

[garagelu]

4. remove big nut holding axle to hub/spindle (forgot what size, it's at autozone, tough)

Its a 36 mm nut.

When you take the nuts off where the diff is, you will have to have someone in the car pull the ebrake or put it in gear so you can break it loose. Then have your helper release the ebrake or pull it out gear so you can turn the axle and get the other bolts.

You can do it yourself but you would just have to go back and forth.

[adrians_s13]

Thats all right except you might have to give the axle a whack or spay it down with pbblaster to get it to slide out of the spindle. Just remember to be careful with the threads.

mine came out like butter.... once the cotter pin, and 35mm (I think it was 35, could be 36?) was out... it slides right off.

[MaD1337M3DRiV3r]

if you dont have it already, get the FSM

http://www.google.com/search?q=240sx+fsm&rls=com.microsoft:*&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1

[iROYAL]

FSM = here (http://www.240edge.com/)

git er done!!

[Dousan_PG]

1. remove bolts that connect axles to diff
2. remove bolts that hold diff to subframe
3. drop or remove diff
3. remove cotter pin on end of axle
4. remove big nut holding axle to hub/spindle (forgot what size, it's at autozone, tough)
4. slide the axles out
5. take a shot of patron and thank Dutchmalmiss

u dont need to do step 3 though
ive changed axles w/ it still in the car.

[Brian]

yah me too.

and i suck at cars.

[timster]

Yeah, dropping the diff isn't necessary (I did because I was switching out anyways). Just pop the axle up so it's not centered in the output shaft anymore (after removing the 6 bolts), and then remove the 36 mm nut. After you do this, you'll realize the axle's not going anywhere, so spray it up with PB Blaster, put the 36mm nut halfway back on, then put a piece of wood over it and whack it with a hammer (or a wood splitter in my case - that thing was STUCK). Shouldn't be too bad.

[Dutchmalmiss]

Ah I did step 3 because it was my first time. Good to know, saves time.

[whereda40at]

ok thanks i will doin this later after i get my car dynoed later. look for my thread "sr23 almost done"

[drift925]

I hope this helps everyone lots.....

The way I use to actually remove the axel off the diff output shafts was from UNDER the car, and quite frankly thats the stupid way to do it (took me like 4 times to realize it) When removing the axel from the output shaft (very very stubborn) do it from the wheel. Get a little chair and sit in front of your rotor and reach in and grab the axel at the end and pull it off. Its worked great for me everything instead of under the car with a hammer and pry bar.

[projectRDM]

u dont need to do step 3 though
ive changed axles w/ it still in the car.

Bingo. Dropping the diff is completely unnecessary and a severe waste of time.

[timster]

Bingo. Dropping the diff is completely unnecessary and a severe waste of time.

And an extraordinary pain in the ass if you don't have a low enough profile jack to lift the diff back into place. :)

[stinky_180]

4. remove big nut holding axle to hub/spindle (forgot what size, it's at autozone, tough)

the axle may not slide out easily. thread the nut all the way to the very end of the threading and whack it with a mallet. if you whack the axle without the nut, the threading will get totally fucked up and you will have major trouble threading the nut back on.

thought i'de at that in.

[whereda40at]

now i cant get the new axle in its a 1/4 too long. is dss axles normaly a little longer??

[Dousan_PG]

And an extraordinary pain in the ass if you don't have a low enough profile jack to lift the diff back into place. :)



what? bench press that shit!!

but have a buddy put the nose bolts in
otherwise you wont have a face.

[tt99ol]

what? bench press that shit!!

but have a buddy put the nose bolts in
otherwise you wont have a face.

who needs a face
no one on here
we aint models or nothing
and use a block of wood when pounding out the axle
then you dont need to thread the nut on
but use a sledge hammer and dont wear a shirt and you too can look manly
oh and drink brawndo

[hassanbakar123]

4. remove big nut holding axle to hub/spindle (forgot what size, it's at autozone, tough)



i'm pretty sure its a 36mm for the s13

[Ragnarok043]

i'm pretty sure its a 36mm for the s13

ditto, its 36mm.

[timster]

what? bench press that shit!!

but have a buddy put the nose bolts in
otherwise you wont have a face.

Haha dude that's exactly what I did. Still sucked.

[gotta240]

what? bench press that shit!!

but have a buddy put the nose bolts in
otherwise you wont have a face.

bah to jacks and buddies holding diffs. My lazy ass friends don't work on their own cars, yet alone mine.

I just bench press that shit, hold it with one hand, and thread bolts on opposite corners. As stated earlier, try not to drop that shit on

1. face
2. chest
3. balls

edit...thinking about it, i may have used my knees too. Dont do as i do though.

[Dousan_PG]

haha your friends suck
my buddy is helping me put my transmission back in tomrrow
just lifiting it in
ill finish the rest.
that is hard by yourself taking it down was hard enough! haha

[g6civcx]

we aint models or nothing


Speak for yourself. :p


As for the transmission, I find it easier to pull the motor at the same time if the motor is coming out any way without dropping the transmission first. Same with assembly.

It's easier to assemble everything outside then drop the whole thing in then to try to mess with it under the car.

[Dousan_PG]

??? no way
doing the transmission change w/ the motor in is a 2 hour job for in out and whatever u need to do
we do it on the garage floor
in fact we are putting it back in today


loosen mounts, ic piping and whatever
tilt engine back (when trans is loose and driveshaft out)
unbolt trans
pull back flip 180 and remove

reverse for install
shits kids play
i changed my transmission at the track

pulliing the engine? more work
drain more fluids, pull radiator IC stuff, remove wiring
get engine hoise
u still have to lie under the car to unbolt everything by the transmission
but u added another 1 hr removing all the engine bay stuff and setting to side making a bigger pile of parts and everything


GET SERIOUS!!

[whereda40at]

it was all good i got it all to fix it perfect but i broke my diff at the track. lol