Turbo Flange Gaskets (T25/28/3/4/whatever)

[upSLIDEdown]

So I've been talking with a buddy of mine that has blown his fair share of T25 gaskets (turbo flange to manifold). I blew mine last night (also T25) when I turned the boost up and went to the mountain. Ugh... ghey. He told me about these guys:

http://www.remflex.com/index.htm

Seems like a good idea, but I'm not convinced. There's also the stainless gasket, and I also noticed Cometic makes a gasket as well.

Stainless
http://members.shaw.ca/gehca/pic/T25(I)GSK.jpg

Cometic
http://a763.g.akamai.net/7/763/1644/v004/app.infopia.com/img/image/fp/VPID/3333553/img004/img.jpg


A good friend of mine that's had numerous 5-600+ whp cars always uses copper RTV and has good luck. The other side of that, is an actual copper gasket. I've seen them on eGay, but I'd probably get a sheet of copper and cut out my own.
http://www.jhps.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/URTV.jpg
http://i21.ebayimg.com/08/i/000/c4/c3/8707_1.JPG


Other option is this stuff I saw some time ago on JGS Turbo's site. It's Rutland 77 Stove and Gasket Cement. Good to 2000*. Made for stove gaskets and also metal to metal repairs up to like, 1/16 or 1/8 of an inch. Obviously, that would depend on pressure, and for it, or copper RTV to work, it would have to be thin.

http://jgsturbo.com/cement.jpg


Thoughts? What have you guys had good luck with? I had the mani flange leveled before putting it on, and I would hope the cast turbo flange is level, but I may check it just for shiggles.

[SleeperSx]

http://www.jhps.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/URTV.jpg

I use this and have never had a problem!!! Just go the easy Route and its also cheaper. Any of your local parts stores carries this.

[upSLIDEdown]

http://www.jhps.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/URTV.jpg

I use this and have never had a problem!!! Just go the easy Route and its also cheaper. Any of your local parts stores carries this.

What's your setup?

I have a SSAC Manifold (I know, I know...) and a stock T25. I've also heard I need to get the mount from the DP to the transmission connected to cut down on vibrations and movement...

[SleeperSx]

Im running it on a stroked Rb25 Stock Cast manifold an t28 turbine. No problems for 2 years.

Now my buddy uses the same copper stuff on his mustang. 302sbf turbo charged. 10psi 597RWHP. He runs the shit out the car too. Never had a leak. Were buddies from the track. He runs 6.80's @ 115mph in the 1/8th mile.

[SleeperSx]

I use the copper from the manifold to the block, turbo to manifold, and also dp to turbo. I don't use any gaskets on the exhaust or turbo.

[upSLIDEdown]

Hmmm, interesting. Anyone else have any input? I was thinking about ordering an S15 7 layer metal gasket for the mani/head flange.

[SHIFT_*grind*]

People blow the factory gaskets a lot? The metal ones? I had no idea :confused:

[SoguRacing]

Good post. Seems informative. Do you use the ultra copper with the gasket? I would assume so.

[upSLIDEdown]

People blow the factory gaskets a lot? The metal ones? I had no idea :confused:

No, I don't think they do generally. And I don't know that mine is for sure blown. A stud may have backed out of the manifold. I don't know. I'm planning on welding the backside of them when the mani is out this time I think.

[SleeperSx]

Good post. Seems informative. Do you use the ultra copper with the gasket? I would assume so.

Nope use the Ultra Copper only. No gaskets otherwise the ultra copper would be pointless, it would still blow the reg gasket in the center.

[SoSideways]

I'm thinking about going this route, but I'll have to let the gaskets dry fully before firing up the car, since the last time I used this stuff, I blew the copper out everywhere after letting it dry for like an hour only lol

[SleeperSx]

LOL, ya I wouldn't start it for at least 24hrs so it cures. If you want the best results.

[upSLIDEdown]

Ok, so I looked into the Ultra Copper. It's only good to 700*... Exhaust gases are a good bit hotter than that if you're doing anything more than driving Miss Daisy... I wouldn't think that would hold up very well... *shrugs*

[240trainee]

OEM metal one off a Z31.

stock metal tab things to keep the nuts from backing off

copper spray on the gasket.

done and done.

[eds13]

yes, i am that buddy thats blown hundreds of them. lol i'm telling you dude, weld that shiz! :D

[upSLIDEdown]

OEM metal one off a Z31.

stock metal tab things to keep the nuts from backing off

copper spray on the gasket.

done and done.

I think it would be Z32. Twin T25s. Z31 were T3.

[upSLIDEdown]

yes, i am that buddy thats blown hundreds of them. lol i'm telling you dude, weld that shiz! :D

No. That's ghey.

[240trainee]

Ok, yea, I'm sure the info is on here somewhere, but I would trust the OEM one personally.

Give Brian at MA a call, see what he says. The setup I have in my motor with the GT28rs I'm pretty sure is a stock gasket, just use a new one, sinch it down well, tack welt the studs in your manifold, and use the locking tab things from nissan.

[undesiredshoe]

Ive used the rutland stove gasket and its awesome. It hardens as you cure it by heating it. I dont know if the permatex copper stuff hardens but this stuff gets pretty stiff. I have some applied between my turbo and manifold, turbo and downpipe, and various exhaust connections and there arent any leaks. Plus this stuff is rated for 2000*F when the permatex copper is rated for 700* intermittent, which means it cant stand 700* continously. Kinda like how speakers have RMS values and the ultra cool 1000W value. Ok, enough.

[upSLIDEdown]

Ive used the rutland stove gasket and its awesome. It hardens as you cure it by heating it. I dont know if the permatex copper stuff hardens but this stuff gets pretty stiff. I have some applied between my turbo and manifold, turbo and downpipe, and various exhaust connections and there arent any leaks. Plus this stuff is rated for 2000*F when the permatex copper is rated for 700* intermittent, which means it cant stand 700* continously. Kinda like how speakers have RMS values and the ultra cool 1000W value. Ok, enough.

Good to hear. So did you use it with no gaskets, just a bead of Rutland 77, slap em together, wait an hour, and then start it?

Also, what manifold are you using? Cast, or stainless?

[s13pignose]

Anybody remember super tuner tv... that show use to come on sat mornings on what is now spike tv. They had the twins who's last name starts with K, think they own/run Twins Turbo. They were doing a turbo upgrade on some euro I think it was, and they used some sorta orangish looking paste (maybe rtv), anyone have an idea what I'm talking about? I mean if it's good enough, maybe u can use that. If only I knew what it's called. Think they just smeared it on around the flange.

[projekt_s13]

I have used the stainless one and that shit did not seal completely. The i used a cosmetic and it blew up once i turned up the boost, so then i ordered the OEM one and I've been good ever since.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/307/gaskets10qu4.jpg

[upSLIDEdown]

I have used the stainless one and that shit did not seal completely. The i used a cosmetic and it blew up once i turned up the boost, so then i ordered the OEM one and I've been good ever since.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/307/gaskets10qu4.jpg

Damn, ok. I just got off the phone with a friend that used to have a 600whp Supra. He said to get a good stainless gasket, make sure the flanges are both flat, and tighten them down really well. Tack weld the back of the studs so they don't back out of the manifold. Then drill (or have a machine shop drill) a tiny hole through each nut/stud and run a piece of safety wire through all four and twist it off.

[SoguRacing]

^sorry but that sounds so "un" needed. There's a reason why nissan used this gasket for their cars. reliability, they didn't just pick one and say "here it's cheap lets use it!" Reliability was factor and i would go oem on most things when replacing because of reliability.

[KuhnDawgAK47]

Damn, ok. I just got off the phone with a friend that used to have a 600whp Supra. He said to get a good stainless gasket, make sure the flanges are both flat, and tighten them down really well. Tack weld the back of the studs so they don't back out of the manifold. Then drill (or have a machine shop drill) a tiny hole through each nut/stud and run a piece of safety wire through all four and twist it off.


that works, some of my buddies who road race motorcycles do that b/c vibration backs off the nut, but if the gasket blows itll be more of a pain to replace

[upSLIDEdown]

^sorry but that sounds so "un" needed. There's a reason why nissan used this gasket for their cars. reliability, they didn't just pick one and say "here it's cheap lets use it!" Reliability was factor and i would go oem on most things when replacing because of reliability.
Well yeah, but that's also on 7psi. The safety wire is not to keep from blowing the gasket, it's to keep the nuts from backing off the studs.

that works, some of my buddies who road race motorcycles do that b/c vibration backs off the nut, but if the gasket blows itll be more of a pain to replace

Yeah. I don't know 100% that the gasket actually blew. And if it did, it could have been because something has started to back out. I haven't pulled it apart yet, because I kinda want to get everything here so I can pull/replace/redo all at one time and have as little downtime as possible.

[SoguRacing]

thats why you get those nuts that dont back out and use the retaining clip to also assist the nuts from backing out.

[upSLIDEdown]

thats why you get those nuts that dont back out and use the retaining clip to also assist the nuts from backing out.

Feel free to post a link, since after all, that's what this thread is for...

[projekt_s13]

I just used the red thread locker,and its holding up.

[upSLIDEdown]

Blah, cut/pasted info into next post at top of page 2.

[upSLIDEdown]

I just used the red thread locker,and its holding up.

That shit melts away to nothing. It definitely doesn't hold up to the kind of heat a turbo puts out.



Just thought of this one too. With studs, you have to worry about 2 things.

1. The stud backing out of the manifold
b. The nut backing off of the stud

What about drilling the threads out and using a bolt/nut, and then drilling the bolt/nut for safety wire? Then the nut can't back off, and the entire thing can do nothing but spin, if it moves at all. I like that idea the best so far I think.

[upSLIDEdown]

So I ordered an OEM flange gasket and an OEM outlet gasket from Courtesy. Hopefully be here by mid-next-week. I'm still undecided as to whether or not I should use it, or use the Rutland 77. Any other input on any of this?

[upSLIDEdown]

Also, any idea what the torque specs are on the 4 flange nuts?

[surge s14]

Use the ultra copper it work damn good we used it on a friend's gm syclone and his turbo mustang ill keep using it for sures. Also get some thread locker tight'n that sh*t.

[burnsauto]

Also, any idea what the torque specs are on the 4 flange nuts?

tight is tight with those guys, just as long as you have the locking plates on the bolts...you won't have any problems


OP: Honestly, just go with an oem gasket. I've blown a few different ones, used a few different types, and the oem ones are the best. Get nothing thats a composite gasket (like the cheap ones you get with megan crap). God forbid a nut vibrates free, the gasket will blow apart before you even know what has happened. At least with the OEM metal ones, you can retighten the nut when you're on the side of the road, and it won't leak. As of right now, Im using a copper gasket from the head to the manifold, and an oem t2 flange gasket for the inlet, and its worked out really well.

There's a reason why Tomei gives only OEM gaskets with their products. ..or just be a ballar and machine both the flanges perfectly smooth so you don't even need a gasket.:keke:

[upSLIDEdown]

Yeah. I ordered an oem gasket. I think either would be fine as long as everything stays tight. I had the lock tabs on and somehow still had trouble. I really think im gonna drill out the threads, use bolts and drill/safety wire the nut/bolt combos together. At least i know it cant budge then.

[Def]

Just put new distorted thread locknuts on there and you're good to go. I don't use the bend over plates that come stock either. Just replace the nuts everytime I take the turbo off and I'm good to go. A big pack of like 50 nuts was maybe $10 at McMaster-Carr.

[upSLIDEdown]

Just put new distorted thread locknuts on there and you're good to go. I don't use the bend over plates that come stock either. Just replace the nuts everytime I take the turbo off and I'm good to go. A big pack of like 50 nuts was maybe $10 at McMaster-Carr. Yeah i thought about that. What about the studs backing out though? Guess i could still drill it out and use bolts and those locknuts

[sblack13]

I just use the OEM gaskets
those paper gaskets with the manifold kits
are a no no.

[SoguRacing]

Also, any idea what the torque specs are on the 4 flange nuts?

I just did mine and i believe that its around 21 to 24 foot pounds on those 4 nuts. as for the nuts that "wont back out" you can get them at frsport.com for $1.50 a piece. they work wonders as well as empty your wallet when you're using them all over your exhaust piping.

[hitman]

most infallible method?
turbo? weld it to the manifold
wastegate? weld it to the manifold
done!

[sblack13]

lol that would work but no thanks.

[upSLIDEdown]

most infallible method? turbo? weld it to the manifold wastegate? weld it to the manifold done! lol. Thats what a buddy of mine said. Thats what he did on his CA. Its pretty much down to oem, Rutland stove gasket cement, or ultra copper. Whatever i use, im gonna drill out the threads and use bolts and safety wire the nuts or use distorted thread lock nuts.

[Def]

Yeah i thought about that. What about the studs backing out though? Guess i could still drill it out and use bolts and those locknuts

I've never had a stud back off, but there isn't much you can do for them besides tacking them on the backside.

The nuts are M8x1.25mm IIRC.

[Def]

Same nuts work on the turbo outlet too, I replace them all whenever I pull the turbo.

[superJoy]

I may be wrong but I think they're M8x1.25?

In any case. Home Depot stocks the distorted thread nuts that fit for 1.50$ each. I'm using those + Nissan gaskets + eBay manifold and no leaks yet.

[upSLIDEdown]

Yeah. I tried to tighten the nut on the front drivers side nut. Looked like a gap there. Might have been from having no gasket in there. It tightened a bit, then stripped. I think I'll be safe with bolts and distorted thread lock nuts. Just gotta decide on the gasket/rutland/ultra copper.

[Def]

I may be wrong but I think they're M8x1.25?

In any case. Home Depot stocks the distorted thread nuts that fit for 1.50$ each. I'm using those + Nissan gaskets + eBay manifold and no leaks yet.

Thinking about it, that actually sounds right. I'll edit my post.

You can get 50 of them from McMaster-Carr(Class 8 - like grade 5, fine for this usage) for round about $10 or so. Plenty to replace everything that gets hot whenever you pull the turbo off.

[upSLIDEdown]

Which lock nuts did you use? They have 5 different distorted thread lock nuts.
If there's room, I'd rather use the flange nut, but I don't know if there is. There's also the centerlock, toplock, and oval lock with conical top. The flange type are also oval lock...

[WILDACEX187]

is there a part number for the manifold nut locking tabs?

[upSLIDEdown]

Ended up getting some of these from a local fastener shop. Conical top oval top thread locknut.
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/nuts/93795a240_90.gif

[Def]

I use oval tops usually, they seem to hold better than center punched or ovaled ones. It's what Nissan used on most suspension components stock.

[upSLIDEdown]

I use oval tops usually, they seem to hold better than center punched or ovaled ones. It's what Nissan used on most suspension components stock.

I'm confused. I assume you meant conical for one of those...

I'm still up in the air on whether to use the OEM gasket, the Ultra Copper, or the Rutland 77. I think the Rutland 77 would be better than the Ultra Copper, simply because it's good up to 2000* and the Ultra Copper is only good to 700*. I dunno though.

[undesiredshoe]

Good to hear. So did you use it with no gaskets, just a bead of Rutland 77, slap em together, wait an hour, and then start it?

Also, what manifold are you using? Cast, or stainless?

No gasket, straight up metal to metal. As long as your flanges are relatively flat, you should be fine. Im using a mild steel log manifold and whatever the turbos made out of...cast iron?? But yea, just run a bead, tighten, wait a bit, and then heat it.

[upSLIDEdown]

No gasket, straight up metal to metal. As long as your flanges are relatively flat, you should be fine. Im using a mild steel log manifold and whatever the turbos made out of...cast iron?? But yea, just run a bead, tighten, wait a bit, and then heat it. How tight did you torque them down? Im also considering the stock gasket with spray copper on both sides of it. I really don't know what to do. I just don't wanna have to do it again.

[Def]

I'm confused. I assume you meant conical for one of those...

I'm still up in the air on whether to use the OEM gasket, the Ultra Copper, or the Rutland 77. I think the Rutland 77 would be better than the Ultra Copper, simply because it's good up to 2000* and the Ultra Copper is only good to 700*. I dunno though.

Conical top.

Use a gasket, I've never seen one seal up that well without one. Even if your flanges are flat, you'll still have some leakage area.

[upSLIDEdown]

Got my gasket today. I think I'm gonna go ahead and use it, with a thin layer of spray copper on each side of it.

[DJ_Sunrise]

Time and time again.. this fact is always true.. OEM IS THE BEST. Nothing, and I mean NOTHING compares to OEM quality. Of course gaskets keep blowing out. How many of those people have their exhausts properly mounted? How many of you actually mount the DP to the transmission? Fix yo' shit right, and put OEM parts on your cars. There's no need for all that goop... do the job right the first time.

-Bart

[SoSideways]

Yeah I ended up ordering the entire gasket set from WestCo Nissan. Yay for back ordered gaskets, I will now have to wait 45 days before tossing the new turbo on.

On the bright side, the conical top lock nuts that I bought from McMaster-Carr is here. 1 pack of 50 for less than $10 shipped. Rock out with your cock out with all these nuts in your hands lol

[steve shadows]

Use metal multilayer if they have it or oem style + copper spray.

copper rtv gunk will not withstand extended periods of 1000 degrees C.

[burnsauto]

Use metal multilayer if they have it or oem style + copper spray.

copper rtv gunk will not withstand extended periods of 1000 degrees C.

correct, and neither will cheap grade 5 hardware. grade 8 for exhaust or bust.

new locking plates, put on nice and snug, will not let nuts wiggle free (:rofl: ). Just take your time and pay attention to the details...and it will last. its like doing anything with an engine...it all comes down to the details.