View Full Version : SR running on 1 cylinder
'93 240 hatch, S13 blacktop SR20, walbro 255, fmic, hks ssqv, Z32 ignitor, otherwise stock engine.
i finally got my car on the road today and drove it around for a bit, everything was great, came home in it and parked it while i was eating some food, went out, started it up and was checking some fluids and cleaning the car up a bit. it was idling perfectly for about 10 minutes then it started running like crap and stalled, i hadn't touched anything to do with the engine.
after unplugging coil packs i determined that it's running on cylinder #4, the other 3 do nothing. swapped coil packs around and it still runs on #4 so it's not coils.
i tried disabling the fuel pump and cranking for a while to get all of the fuel out of the engine in case it flooded itself for some reason but after putting the fuel pump fuse back in it still only runs on #4.
i'm not at my shop so i have pretty limited tools here and things take me a lot longer to do, hopefully someone has a good suggestion on what to look at first.
any suggestions?
thanks in advance.
Sileighty_85
05-13-2008, 04:10 PM
pull the codes from the ECU
DDSR240
05-13-2008, 04:23 PM
the same thing happend to m,e and it turned out to be an igniter chip I was running a q45 igniter so it was easy to get a new one.... test to see if you are getting voltage out of it you should get a constant the ecu gives it the ground it needs to fire
:angel:
DDSR240
05-13-2008, 04:26 PM
if it is that to further help you in the future protect your ignighter chip from heat that is the #1 reason they tend to go out #2 reason is if your a nico club member..j/k.
i don't have a spare igniter at the moment so i'll look into that tomorrow.
but for now i pulled the plugs, #4 was wet and smelled like gas, #1-3 were dry and did not, measured +12V at all injectors and coils though.
looked up info on pulling codes, and according to the info i got there should be a green/red wire used to trigger a red wire (CEL) beside it (pin 23 & 24, bottom-right of my thumb) but i do not have the red wire, just an empty hole.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a192/simplemind7/Picture002-22.jpg
and my ECU does not have the screw and LED like a KA and i believe some SRs do aswell.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a192/simplemind7/Picture003-20.jpg
it's a nissan remanufactured ECU, could this have something to do with it?
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a192/simplemind7/Picture004-18.jpg
Sileighty_85
05-13-2008, 05:53 PM
wow a Remanufactured ECU??!!
Ive never seen that before
thats probably your problem
is there anyone around ya with a real SR ecu?
i might know someone. i drove a car around for 2 weeks with this engine/ECU in it about a month ago with no problems and drove it earlier today in the car it's currently in with no problems and then it dies while idling... really odd.
oh i forgot to mention this before. since i put it into this car a few days ago it's been having hard starts..... of sorts. it will start right away but half the time it would idle rough until i gave it a bit of throttle and revved it up over 1000RPM, then it would go back down to a smooth 800RPM idle. don't know if that helps at all.
thanks for the help so far, hopefully i can figure this out.
corriganjoshua
05-13-2008, 06:16 PM
i have for sale just pm me if youd like
Sileighty_85
05-13-2008, 06:20 PM
ohh I just noticed you have a black top SR
That might pose a problem cuz the B/T uses a differnt ECU.
So looks like you need to find a J4 ECU
Thats sucks though you dont have a CEL light, its very helpful
Also check your wiring for that Z32 Ignitor Chip to make sure the connections are still good
anyone know if there is another way to check the ECU codes for my motor? i found that information on NICO but it doesn't really help me... or am i just SOL for a CEL?
Oo_Skyline_oO
05-13-2008, 06:43 PM
ignitor chip is probably bad
now if i touch the throttle it kills the engine, once and a while it will idle itself up to about 1500RPM and seems like it's running on more than just 1 cylinder, it's hard to say though because it doesn't stay like that for long enough to check.
is there a way to check the ignitor with a multimeter or something to see if it's good/bad?
figured it out.
there was big dent in the gas tank right under the FSU so it made the pump sit higher and only pick up around 1/4 tank, so despite the fact that i had 1/4 of gas i couldn't get it to the engine.
pushed the dent out, lowered the pump and it runs good as new now. :2f2f:
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