E5 ecu... questions

[FusionR240sx]

soo... my rom tune came in.
and i was taking my ecu apart to bring to a TV repair shop to have it put in.

and when i opened it up it looked like this...


http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02683.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02682.jpg


is there spossed to be a daughter board on top of there or something?


then i looked closer and saw this...


http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02685.jpg

looks like the top left of those 3 little "chips" are cracked.

guy said he had this ecu in his redtop SR running fine.


i got this ecu in a trade + cash for my APFC...

looks to me i got screwed over...

if anyone else has a E5 blacktop ecu can they pop it open and check it out for me...

i assumed it's spossed to be like this....

http://eformance.info/ecu/ecu2.jpg

[GSXRJJordan]

So you bought this thinking it was supposed to be ROM tuned already? Or you bought it as a straight auto SR20DET ecu?

It looks legit for a stock ECU, but there's really only one way to find out... i'd say to try it in a buddies stock SR car and see if it runs.

[FusionR240sx]

So you bought this thinking it was supposed to be ROM tuned already? Or you bought it as a straight auto SR20DET ecu?

It looks legit for a stock ECU, but there's really only one way to find out... i'd say to try it in a buddies stock SR car and see if it runs.


he said it was stock.
i was told that the headers was put it in so it was tuned before..

but those chips look broken.
and ther ewas no board going across.
idk, we'll see i guess.

not 1 of my freinds have a even close to stock SR really at all..

[FusionR240sx]

can anyone else chime inn?

[SoSideways]

Stock SR ECUs don't have daughter boards on them. You have to install the daughter board on there (which is the reason why you took it to the TV repair shop, I'd assume?), then put the ROMs in the sockets.

As for the chips... can't see shit captain. Maybe it's just me, but it's blurry as fuck, because you didn't use the macro feature on your camera. Next time you go to take a pic, press the button that looks like a flower, then take a pic. It should be in focus then, and we can see wtf you're talking about.

[holybushoffire]

My E5 looks just like the one in the link, but is was supposedly a tuned ECU.

Honestly couldn't tell if it was tuned or not, but I bought it for the standard going price of a stock on.

I'd stick with what SoSideways said.

[FusionR240sx]

Stock SR ECUs don't have daughter boards on them. You have to install the daughter board on there (which is the reason why you took it to the TV repair shop, I'd assume?), then put the ROMs in the sockets.

As for the chips... can't see shit captain. Maybe it's just me, but it's blurry as fuck, because you didn't use the macro feature on your camera. Next time you go to take a pic, press the button that looks like a flower, then take a pic. It should be in focus then, and we can see wtf you're talking about.

yea i'm going to take it to the TV repair shop.
but in the last pic. the black plastic piece with the bronze/copper piece going across the 3 of them. the left one has a "notch" broken off the top.



My E5 looks just like the one in the link, but is was supposedly a tuned ECU.

Honestly couldn't tell if it was tuned or not, but I bought it for the standard going price of a stock on.

I'd stick with what SoSideways said.


alright thanks.

[FusionR240sx]

when you say move the jumper from cj1 to the back on cj2...
is that just a lil wire that goes across from cj1? take it off and solder it to cj2?

cuz it looks like it was done already... then put back to cj1 again.

at least that's what i see/think.

lmk what you think.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02688.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02687.jpg

[FusionR240sx]

bumpp...
help me outt

[FusionR240sx]

bumpp...
help me outt


akls;fjkl;asjfkl;ajsfa

[cotbu]

First test the ecu out the way it sits, when you start the car, the led should go out. If it does, your good. stock tune should be ok. If you have a consult port and cable you could be sure and dump the stock rom. now for your romtune de-solder the jumper on cj1. place the solder on cj2 install daughterboard. start your car, look at the led should be out. If not something is wrong. If, it's ok........................
Datalog a few runs so you can see what needs to be changed.

CJ1= read tune from stock location
CJ2= read tune from header, daughterboard

[idlafie]

yea i'm going to take it to the TV repair shop.
but in the last pic. the black plastic piece with the bronze/copper piece going across the 3 of them. the left one has a "notch" broken off the top.

If you're taking the ECU to the TV repair shop, have the repair technician test the transistor out to make sure it is still functional, (it should be). If not, then the repair guy can desolder the "broken" one & replace it with a new one.

The transistor is mounted to the metal casing of your ECU because it uses the casing as a heat sink to dissipate all the heat energy it acquires while on & running your car. See the attached link for how a transistor works....
http://www.physlink.com/Education/AskExperts/ae430.cfm

If your car starts & runs without any problems with the ECU you just bought, then you should be okay.

Anyhow, this should answer your question about the "notched" transistor. Not sure about your question on the jumper wire & the soldering job done to your ECU....sounds like Cotbu has that one covered...

Hope this helps...

ID

[FusionR240sx]

First test the ecu out the way it sits, when you start the car, the led should go out. If it does, your good. stock tune should be ok. If you have a consult port and cable you could be sure and dump the stock rom. now for your romtune de-solder the jumper on cj1. place the solder on cj2 install daughterboard. start your car, look at the led should be out. If not something is wrong. If, it's ok........................
Datalog a few runs so you can see what needs to be changed.

CJ1= read tune from stock location
CJ2= read tune from header, daughterboard

thanks! will do 2morrow.
now with the jumper... is that just a wire that's going across or something like that?

or is there spossed to be some sorta chip? because cj2 just has 2 little solder spots/metal dots.

do i just take the "wire" going across from cj1 off and put it on jc2?

If you're taking the ECU to the TV repair shop, have the repair technician test the transistor out to make sure it is still functional, (it should be). If not, then the repair guy can desolder the "broken" one & replace it with a new one.

The transistor is mounted to the metal casing of your ECU because it uses the casing as a heat sink to dissipate all the heat energy it acquires while on & running your car. See the attached link for how a transistor works....
http://www.physlink.com/Education/AskExperts/ae430.cfm

If your car starts & runs without any problems with the ECU you just bought, then you should be okay.

Anyhow, this should answer your question about the "notched" transistor. Not sure about your question on the jumper wire & the soldering job done to your ECU....sounds like Cotbu has that one covered...

Hope this helps...

ID



thanks man.

def helped me a lot.
expecially since i know nothing about this.

check what i replied to him with above and let me know what you think.

+ rep to all
thank you

[stinky_180]

you see that ide sort of connector thing on the left?

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02683.jpg

that is where the daughterboard is installed. it also looks like they already jumped the correct connection so that the ecu will read from the daughterboard. but there is no daughterboard.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02687.jpg

this wire on the ecu board is there because it looks like they messed up the track on the ecu header. hopefully the solder isn't touching any other tracks or you'll run into problems.
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02688.jpg

also when you say you got your rom tune in, did you get a disc with a bin file? or were you expecting a daughterboard with the rom tune pre-loaded into the ecu?

[stinky_180]

just to show you how the stock ecu header looks like

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/images/50F00.jpg

as you can see, they did infact modify the ecu. but it also looks like they forgot to put in the daughterboard.

[cotbu]

There should be a 000 resistor as a jumper on cj1, but since it 000 you can use a wire or a blob of strategically placed solder. If your installing the the board? De-solder the blob over cj1, (cj1 has two contacts just like cj2) do a fresh blob over the contacts for cj2. Your ecu should now be ready!

[FusionR240sx]

just to show you how the stock ecu header looks like

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/images/50F00.jpg

as you can see, they did infact modify the ecu. but it also looks like they forgot to put in the daughterboard.

so if i was just to put this ecu into a stock sr car with a stock setup do you think the car would start up without having a daughter board in it?
because the guy i got it from is saying that it worked PERFECTLY fine with his car before he sent it to me.

i opened it up not to long ago when my rom tune came in and it was a mess. and no daughterboard to be found.

here is my rom tune chip...

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02736.jpg

There should be a 000 resistor as a jumper on cj1, but since it 000 you can use a wire or a blob of strategically placed solder. If your installing the the board? De-solder the blob over cj1, (cj1 has two contacts just like cj2) do a fresh blob over the contacts for cj2. Your ecu should now be ready!


alright. i'm debating on if i should even do any of this today at all.

my freind works with this stuff and is gona do it for me.
but this ecu looks all hacked up.

and also... i have a redtop SR in my car.

the guy said he was sending me a e62 redtop ecu.

and i opened the box and it was a e5 ecu.
he said it worked fine in his car.

but since i've had the ecu. i tried starting my car and nothing. but would having 740cc's z32 maf and a 2871r turbo affect that?

maybe the car will start with the rom tune installed.

hopefully.?

[FusionR240sx]

also... should i have the header that's on the ecu taken out? because there's a header already on the eprom chip itself.

[cotbu]

what i would do first is, make sure the ecu works in stock form, with the jumper on cj1. It doesn't matter if the board is installed on the header.

If the ecu works with the jumper on cj1 then I would move the jumper to cj2.
since there are header pins installed, just mount the daughterboard.
If the car runs like crap or the ecu led stays on. post the problem here

[FusionR240sx]

what i would do first is, make sure the ecu works in stock form, with the jumper on cj1. It doesn't matter if the board is installed on the header.

If the ecu works with the jumper on cj1 then I would move the jumper to cj2.
since there are header pins installed, just mount the daughterboard.
If the car runs like crap or the ecu led stays on. post the problem here

well the car doesn't even start with the ecu in at all. sounds like it wants to.

it started before with my APFC every time.
the guy gave me cash and this ecu for my apfc because i needed money at the time and didn't have money to get the apfc tuned.

i'm asking him for a refund on just the ecu right now so i can buy a e62 ecu.

[stinky_180]

looks like you do infact have the daughterboard, its just not intsalled into the ecu header. plug the daughterboard in and your good to go. if you wanted to use the ecu without the daughterboard, you will need to move cj2 jumper into cj1. that way the ecu will read from the cpu memory instead of an outside source (daughterboard). you do not need to remove the ecu header that they have soldered in place, it just makes removing and installing of the daugherboard easier. pretty much a plug and play deal, unless you want to run without the daughterboard.

put the daughterboard in.
install ecu into eccs harness.
put the car in the on position (not running)
put ecu into diagnostic mode I (or was it II?i forgot) and grab the codes.

you should receive code 55. if you get other codes or can't get the ecu into diagnostic mode, then dont attempt to start the vehicle. fix whatever trouble codes you get if you see any pop up.

[cotbu]

If the bins are already tuned for your setup, It's not going to hurt anything to try it. Unless, you think modifying the ecu will thwart your chances of a refund.

[FusionR240sx]

looks like you do infact have the daughterboard, its just not intsalled into the ecu header. plug the daughterboard in and your good to go. if you wanted to use the ecu without the daughterboard, you will need to move cj2 jumper into cj1. that way the ecu will read from the cpu memory instead of an outside source (daughterboard). you do not need to remove the ecu header that they have soldered in place, it just makes removing and installing of the daugherboard easier. pretty much a plug and play deal, unless you want to run without the daughterboard.

put the daughterboard in.
install ecu into eccs harness.
put the car in the on position (not running)
put ecu into diagnostic mode I (or was it II?i forgot) and grab the codes.

you should receive code 55. if you get other codes or can't get the ecu into diagnostic mode, then dont attempt to start the vehicle. fix whatever trouble codes you get if you see any pop up.

the first pic at the top is how my ecu looked when i opened it up.
no daughterboard anywhere.

just that header. nothing attached to it at all.
i mean, idk what a stock ecu looks like. but shouldn't there be a daughterboard or something like the ones in those links?


If the bins are already tuned for your setup, It's not going to hurt anything to try it. Unless, you think modifying the ecu will thwart your chances of a refund.

that's what i'm afraid of. otherwise i would have had it done 2nitte and tried it out.

idk what to do. it seems like the guy doesn't wana give me a refund so far. so i'm giving it til 2morrow afternoon.

then i'm just gona go thru and do it.

[stinky_180]

the first pic at the top is how my ecu looked when i opened it up.
no daughterboard anywhere.

just that header. nothing attached to it at all.
i mean, idk what a stock ecu looks like. but shouldn't there be a daughterboard or something like the ones in those links?




http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02736.jpg
is that you holding this? because that is the daughterboard which is supposed to be installed where the header is. just plug and play...................

i also posted a picture of a stock ecu.....

[FusionR240sx]

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02736.jpg
is that you holding this? because that is the daughterboard which is supposed to be installed where the header is. just plug and play...................

i also posted a picture of a stock ecu.....

yea yeaa.. i bought that.

plug and play? just push it in?
haha. or get it solder'd in?

i'm just saying... the first pic is how i got my ecu.

would it have even worked if i didn't have that daughter board that i purchased?


cuz the guy i bought it from is trying to say it worked perfect in his car.

sorry i'm i'm getting you guys frustrated or anything. noob's gotta learn.:coold:

[stinky_180]

the header on the ecu you received is male

and from the looks of the underside of the daughterboard, it looks female.

insert male into female


if his injectors, maf, turbo, etc is exactly like your set up; then it'll run your engine. those two chips on the top of that daughter board are more then likely sst27sf512 chips. those chips are reburnable so you can load any tune you want (or learn tuning) by simply getting a eprom burner (i use willen dual enhanced) and free rom editing software (romeditor).

[FusionR240sx]

the header on the ecu you received is male

and from the looks of the underside of the daughterboard, it looks female.

insert male into female


if his injectors, maf, turbo, etc is exactly like your set up; then it'll run your engine. those two chips on the top of that daughter board are more then likely sst27sf512 chips. those chips are reburnable so you can load any tune you want (or learn tuning) by simply getting a eprom burner (i use willen dual enhanced) and free rom editing software (romeditor).

oh okay.
then after that all i gotta do is move the jumper from cj1 to cj2?
i bought that daughterboard tuned for my setup. it didn't come with the ecu.

[stinky_180]

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02687.jpg
yes move the jumper to cj2

if the daughterboard isn't female you will need to solder it in, take a macro shot of the daughterboard connector.

[FusionR240sx]

it needs to be soldered in for sure. i'll take a pic for you... gimmie a couple min.
this comp is to slow to upload photo's. or anything at all.

[FusionR240sx]

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02745.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02744.jpg

[FusionR240sx]

should i have the header on the ecu itself removed?

[stinky_180]

yes, remove the pins on the ecu header.

after the pins have been removed, insert the male pins of the daughterboard through the ecu header and solder it in place. make sure that the daughterboard pcb does not touch anything on the ecu.

if you dont feel comfortable with installing it, you can send it to calum or a tv repair shop. but there is one thing im worried about with your install.....
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/FusionR300zx/DSC02688.jpg
when removing the pin, you'll probably end up disconnecting this jumper wire.

[FusionR240sx]

that blue wire?
i'm having my freinds boss do it.

they put stuff like this together for company's.

i wouldn't think of doing it.

what if they disconnect that wire (blue one) and put it back on once the
daughter board is installed.

[stinky_180]

if the other side of the wire gets disconnect, you MIGHT run into trouble. just make sure that the solder on the pcb track is not touching any other tracks on the board.

what are the specs of your sr20 anyways? injectors ,maf, turbo, etc?

[FusionR240sx]

740cc, z32msf, 2871r .64 turbo.

alright i'll tell him that.

[stinky_180]

niceeeeeee well good luck with your tune!

be sure to run high octane before you run the motor... dont want to detonate now...

[FusionR240sx]

yea... well i got the daughter board and everything installed.

this is the PM i got from the guy i bought it from.



"Fuck you little pussy, your bull shit will catch up with you. faggot"
__________________________________________________ _________

that's what he just sent me.

just make sure you guys don't do business with him...


but moving on now...

i've got that same clicking noise coming from the fuses.
first it was the starter.
tapped it.

car cranked
didn't wana turn over.
and i get a bunch of clicking noises.

car was automatic.
this is a new SR motor in the car.

the car used to run and drive fine.

idk what to check for. i just pulled all the fuses out and they're fine.

there's those 3 blue relay boxes next to them by the clutch pedal. and the brown one on the bottom.

what's that 1 for? i
t doesn't seem to budge either.

[FusionR240sx]

some1 help me with this clicking noiiiiiise.
i already tapped the starter.
car cranked. woudln't turn over.
clicking sound right before the car is turned fully on.

[SILVIA_KIDs14.5]

sorry didn't see you solved the problem already was going to give you some insite on that daughter board of yours but you got it under control good luck with everything

[besTint]

your saying the car was an auto now swapped to 5sp SR?

[FusionR240sx]

sorry didn't see you solved the problem already was going to give you some insite on that daughter board of yours but you got it under control good luck with everything

yea.
thanks anyway!

your saying the car was an auto now swapped to 5sp SR?


yea... but i really don't think that has anything to do with the problem. because the car ran and drove fine with the previous SR.
i'm trying to figure out this clicking noise from the relays or something. whenever the planes start to die down i'll take a vid of it. maybe you can hear it.

[Tearlessj]

Ok heres my chipped E5

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g149/tearlessj/_MG_0765.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g149/tearlessj/_MG_0767.jpg

I have no idea what its tuned for. What should I do to set it back to the OEM tune? My motor is completely stock. Im thinking about removing the jumper?

[antiquefurniture]

I have a good e5 ecu for sale if anyone is interested

$100

works perfect!

[FusionR240sx]

Ok heres my chipped E5

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g149/tearlessj/_MG_0765.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g149/tearlessj/_MG_0767.jpg

I have no idea what its tuned for. What should I do to set it back to the OEM tune? My motor is completely stock. Im thinking about removing the jumper?

to the guy right below this post. GTFO thread jacker.

well mine came to me in "working" condition with just the header that's on the bottom of that rom tune. and the jumper on the back at jc1.

idk if it really worked. the previous owner said it did. but i doubt it.

now i'm getting no spark at all.

[antiquefurniture]

Maybe you should buy my ecu instead of playing around with your broke ass one

[FusionR240sx]

Maybe you should buy my ecu instead of playing around with your broke ass one

if i couldn't trust a guy that had 4 green bars to buy a good ecu off of why in the fuck would i trust you? gtfo of here :fawk:

[kevtrinh]

have you tried a new battery haha usually clicking means low voltage

[FusionR240sx]

have you tried a new battery haha usually clicking means low voltage



yea... i got a new battery like less then a month ago.

but i've been trying to start it a lot so maybe it's dead or something.
hopefully.

i'll try that out.
thanks

[stinky_180]

from my own personal experience;

i changed some values of the bin file that i wasn't supposed to do. what happened then was that all types of relays and shit started to click. theres a few things that might be happening. i returned the values back to its original values and everything worked well.

a)the eprom chips got burned with the wrong tune/bin file
b)the eprom chips didn't burned correctly
c)the eprom chips got erased via the sun (uv rays can erase a chip)
d)the ecu board got damaged some how(maybe they jumper wire is touching some other tracks?)

try your stock ecu and see if the car starts up. if it does, then it is more than likely the ecu. im sure the person you bought the daugherboard/tune from burned it correctly. but honestly, it looks like that ecu has been fucked with too much.

[stinky_180]

actually there might be a way to test...

move cj2 jumper back to cj1, this way the ecu will read from cpu memory

if the car starts up, then the eprom chips are fucked up and or the daughterboard.

if it doesn't start up, your ecu is done for.

[antiquefurniture]

if i couldn't trust a guy that had 4 green bars to buy a good ecu off of why in the fuck would i trust you? gtfo of here :fawk:

Seriously man, i agree. I wouldn't entitle trust to a doctor unless he had 4+ green rep cubes... I mean seriously, what are people thinking these days..less than 4 cubes...pfffff

[FusionR240sx]

from my own personal experience;

i changed some values of the bin file that i wasn't supposed to do. what happened then was that all types of relays and shit started to click. theres a few things that might be happening. i returned the values back to its original values and everything worked well.

a)the eprom chips got burned with the wrong tune/bin file
b)the eprom chips didn't burned correctly
c)the eprom chips got erased via the sun (uv rays can erase a chip)
d)the ecu board got damaged some how(maybe they jumper wire is touching some other tracks?)

try your stock ecu and see if the car starts up. if it does, then it is more than likely the ecu. im sure the person you bought the daugherboard/tune from burned it correctly. but honestly, it looks like that ecu has been fucked with too much.

car dind't start at all with the stock ecu either.
relays still clicked like crazy

actually there might be a way to test...

move cj2 jumper back to cj1, this way the ecu will read from cpu memory

if the car starts up, then the eprom chips are fucked up and or the daughterboard.

if it doesn't start up, your ecu is done for.

i think the ecu is bad.

Seriously man, i agree. I wouldn't entitle trust to a doctor unless he had 4+ green rep cubes... I mean seriously, what are people thinking these days..less than 4 cubes...pfffff


k, u can just shut up now.
byye:keke:

[antiquefurniture]

WORKING $100 e5 ecu for sale except to Illinois

[FusionR240sx]

WORKING $100 e5 ecu for sale except to Illinois

1. i shouldn't even be have this ecu in my possesion. it should be a e62.
2. the guy that sold it is an official queer.
3. your a queer as well.

[Tearlessj]

actually there might be a way to test...

move cj2 jumper back to cj1, this way the ecu will read from cpu memory

if the car starts up, then the eprom chips are fucked up and or the daughterboard.

if it doesn't start up, your ecu is done for.
So if I were to move the jumper back the ecu would be reset to factory spec?

[stinky_180]

it wont exactly 'reset' to factory spec, it will read all the mapping from the cpu memory instead of on the chips.

you should've made sure your car started before even adding the daughterboard. dont know if anyone can help, since the motor doesn't even run.... get it running with the stock ecu and then come back here.

[FusionR240sx]

it wont exactly 'reset' to factory spec, it will read all the mapping from the cpu memory instead of on the chips.

you should've made sure your car started before even adding the daughterboard. dont know if anyone can help, since the motor doesn't even run.... get it running with the stock ecu and then come back here.


so for me basically i need a new ecu?
cuz mines fucked?

[GSXRJJordan]

It's possible that the ECU is fine, and that the daughterboard is fine, and that the problem is with your wiring/etc... since you don't have a stock one, you can't really test it. Sounds like the next logical step in troubleshooting is to get the motor running on a stock ECU.

[FusionR240sx]

It's possible that the ECU is fine, and that the daughterboard is fine, and that the problem is with your wiring/etc... since you don't have a stock one, you can't really test it. Sounds like the next logical step in troubleshooting is to get the motor running on a stock ECU.

i just don't see how it could be the wiring...
cuz i drove it and started it with my APFC before i sold it.

and it drove when i had a stock setup.
i think the ecu is just bad.



idk. but i'm about to drop it off somewhere and just saying "fix it" and leaving it there til it's fixed.

[FusionR240sx]

bumppp
thiiiiiis
neeeed
helllp.

[FusionR240sx]

help mehhhhhh

[FusionR240sx]

gerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr click click click click.

i wish the clicking was a bomb and the car blew up.

some1 help me figure out what it is. it's pissing me off

[steve shadows]

This is why I say

1. if your going to buy a tuned ecu get it from a reputable place with support NEW - ie. JWT, Enthalpy, Japan

2. if you think trying to save money on your ECCS, ECU or EMS should be considered to cut cost, think again it's the only place you should really be willing to spend some money to get the right parts

3. If you bought a Power FC, Raytech or other pre-made EMS all you would have to worry about it driving the car to a dyno and having everything fit like a glove for your specific setup, but it costs a little more money.

4. IMO all the time and stress you go through trying to "Save Money" ends up being the opposite because you waste your time and time is as good as money. etc

But hey everyone has a different philosophy and limits to spending or doing things right the first time...

[FusionR240sx]

This is why I say

1. if your going to buy a tuned ecu get it from a reputable place with support NEW - ie. JWT, Enthalpy, Japan

2. if you think trying to save money on your ECCS, ECU or EMS should be considered to cut cost, think again it's the only place you should really be willing to spend some money to get the right parts

3. If you bought a Power FC, Raytech or other pre-made EMS all you would have to worry about it driving the car to a dyno and having everything fit like a glove for your specific setup, but it costs a little more money.

4. IMO all the time and stress you go through trying to "Save Money" ends up being the opposite because you waste your time and time is as good as money. etc

But hey everyone has a different philosophy and limits to spending or doing things right the first time...



i kno i kno i kno i kno.... guhhh

BUT, im trying to figure out these clicking relays right now.

got any clue on what it could be?

[stinky_180]

get the car running with a stock ecu

[FusionR240sx]

get the car running with a stock ecu

even with 740cc injectors, z32maf, and a 2871r turbo?

ppl told me not to try and start it with a stock ecu because of the mods done.


even when the e5 ecu i had when it was stock didn't start my car. non stop clicking.

first the starter clicks.
i tap it.
then the car cranks.

but there's still clicking from the clutch pedal area relays.

[GSXRJJordan]

If you had stock injectors, I'd say to give it a shot with a stock ECU. With those mods, you're SOL for now.

[FusionR240sx]

If you had stock injectors, I'd say to give it a shot with a stock ECU. With those mods, you're SOL for now.

thats what i was thinking...
i was just gona try maybe getting a ignition switch and getting the battery fully charged and testing that.

ignition switch is like $35.
o well if i waste money on it.

[let5l1de]

This is why I say

1. if your going to buy a tuned ecu get it from a reputable place with support NEW - ie. JWT, Enthalpy, Japan

2. if you think trying to save money on your ECCS, ECU or EMS should be considered to cut cost, think again it's the only place you should really be willing to spend some money to get the right parts

3. If you bought a Power FC, Raytech or other pre-made EMS all you would have to worry about it driving the car to a dyno and having everything fit like a glove for your specific setup, but it costs a little more money.

4. IMO all the time and stress you go through trying to "Save Money" ends up being the opposite because you waste your time and time is as good as money. etc

But hey everyone has a different philosophy and limits to spending or doing things right the first time...

steve shadows is the man. you will never go back to any other ecu once you have used a programmable EMS.


I HAVE A SR RAYTECH NEW IN BOX!!!

PM for pricing pls.

[FusionR240sx]

steve shadows is the man. you will never go back to any other ecu once you have used a programmable EMS.


I HAVE A SR RAYTECH NEW IN BOX!!!

PM for pricing pls.


yea.... well i would sell my turbo setup and get a good EMS system, but that would be pointless because i would have a stock sr setup again and a ems that's pointless...

i just wanted something for now to drive.

so far this emance rom tune is pretty good.




what would be the means of a boost creep?

MBC set @ 12psi, once 6k rpms comes around and i keep at 100% throttle it goes up to about 18psi.

wastegate spring?

2871r .64