View Full Version : Coilover installation
sykikchimp
11-19-2002, 11:33 AM
Anyone have some good tips on installing coilovers?
I am replacing the stock suspension with the JIC's very soon, and was wondering if you guys with experience could chime in? specifically on getting height correct?
Foxcolt
11-19-2002, 12:46 PM
Yours have top mounts so installation should be a breeze.
Make sure that when you hammer out the stut bolts to keep the nut on the end so you won't damage the threads.
I measured my height by counting threads under the spring. Been about a year and a half since I promised my self I'd get the car corner weighted <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':laugh:'>
G'luck
Jed
Steeles
11-19-2002, 02:03 PM
watch out for that stock spring flying at you!!! lol thats about all I can think of <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Steeles @ Nov. 19 2002,4:03)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">watch out for that stock spring flying at you!!! lol thats about all I can think of <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'></td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
? Why? He's putting on coilovers, not springs. There's no need for a spring compressor or any tool other than 12, 14 and 17mm sockets. If you have the JICs ready to go, it should only take you about 30-45 minutes to swap everything out. Make sure you have the shock towers mounts bolted in before mounting on the suspension arms, it makes for much easier installation (especially the rear).
Most suspension companies give you a baseline height to initially set your coilovers at. Install them to those specs and then lower/raise accordingly.
It doesn't hurt to put a little anti-seize lube on your perches so everything stays mobile.
Dousan_PG
11-19-2002, 03:07 PM
no springs should be shooting out unless disassembling stock suspension
if you have FLT-A2 (or any double height adjustable suspension)
when you adjust the height, very important:
make sure that when you lower the shock perch that the SPRING perch moves at same time, if it doesnt thespring perch will actually be compressing the spring.
when you rotate down or up, use one hand to lower shock perch, use other hand to keep the spring perch moving at same time. if not, the shock perch will move down and the spring perch up and when you put the wheels back on and look at car, it will be same as before. also it will have compressed (preloaded) the spring.
just an fyi, from expirience. heh..
tys240
11-19-2002, 03:09 PM
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ Nov. 19 2002,12:33)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Anyone have some good tips on installing coilovers?
I am replacing the stock suspension with the JIC's very soon, and was wondering if you guys with experience could chime in? specifically on getting height correct?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Actually, this is something really simple, but the best advice I can give you is unbolt the top (three bolts) before the bottom (two bolts) in the front and bottom (one bolt) before the top (two bolts)in the rear.
-ty
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (tys240 @ Nov. 19 2002,5:09)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Actually, this is something really simple, but the best advice I can give you is unbolt the top (three bolts) before the bottom (two bolts) in the front and bottom (one bolt) before the top (two bolts)in the rear.
-ty</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Hmm, not sure about that. Generally it takes a good amount of force to get the bottom bolts/nuts loosened on the fronts and rears, therefore it's best to do them first as they are held in place more securely. The tops are easy... Just my experience. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/hehe.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':hehe:'>
sykikchimp
11-19-2002, 04:05 PM
thanks guys! they will be going in sat. (as long as I get good weather)
I am assuming the JICs have camber plates for the front..?
On the front struts, there are two bolts used connect to the spinal. The top bolt can be used to adjust front camber on the stock suspension.. set the camber bolt to where you'll be seeing the most negative camber, and correct it with the top mount camber plates.
Pictured is the location of the camber hole: http://halzmann2.homestead.com/files/DMS/DMS_front_bare_camber.jpg
(These struts allow for an eccentric washer to be dropped in for more camber)
The whole idea of doing this is to have a higher 'Steering Axis Inclination'; SAI.
http://aligncraft.com/terms/terms.html#Steering Axis Inclination
http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm#Steering Axis Inclination (SAI)
If you're 'drifting', or whatever, when you release the steering wheel to have it center on your path of travel, a higher SAI will allow that to happen at a higher rate.. plus a few other benefits (in the links).
Whoever is doing the alignment should put in the highest SAI they're able to.. however, some don't
Edit: Forget it.. UBB tags are being stupid with those links; oh well!
Sykikchimp- you should have nothing to worry about, the install is very straightforward (despite which I still managed to take a couple of hours). I would set aside a good 2 hours to make sure you have everything on right, and to make adjustments to ride height, spring compression, front camber and dampening adjustments.
Re: height- I would leave it at the heightthat they came with for the time being... in fact you may consider RAISING it a little bit, as they (or mine, at least) are low enough for me to scrape my cat on large speed bumps.
A good starting point is to just have the 4 set at the same height, and work from there.
Also, make sure your spring perches are tight, and that there is a little bit of pressure on the spring; you don't want your springs becoming completely unloaded and moving around when you lift a wheel going over rumble strips (or just a big fat pothole that you didn't see).
Let me know which way you install your rears (you'll see what I mean when you get to it), I'm curious as to why you (will have) installed it one way over the other. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>
sorry if it bothers anyone that i'm reviving this thread, but.. i'm installing zeal b2's in the next few days, and instead of starting a new thread, i thought i'd ask it on here. Should i have any trouble running 215's on the stock wheels and not rub the coilovers? I"m thinking i should b fine... but gosh those stock wheels look so sunken in... :-D thanks!, *and this is a good thread.. helped me out a lot.
Dousan_PG
08-05-2003, 09:44 AM
depends on sidewall too
i think you'll rub
205 is pretty close to the coilover already. might get some 5mm spacer or 10mm w/ longer studs for safety
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