Stuck clutch down to the floor

[drkidd22]

Hello,

I haven't been active for a little while but now I have a little problem with my 240. The car has a SR in it and my problem is that the clutch is stuck down to the floor. Really hard to bring it up with the hands. What could be causing this? Do I need to bleed the line or replace the master and slave cylinders?

Thanks

[boogerlovers]

you probably just need to bleed the clutch...

[posdrift240]

You need a new Master cylinder and might as well replace the slave while your at it. That will take care of 2 birds with 1 stone. Neither are expensive from your local parts store.

[FaLKoN240]

Buy my brand new clutch master cylinder.

I bought it for when I changed my clutch out, but then my car got totalled.

PM me if you're interested.

[PhilthyS13]

You need a new Master cylinder and might as well replace the slave while your at it. That will take care of 2 birds with 1 stone. Neither are expensive from your local parts store.

And if you haven't already, remove the dampener loop to take care of 3 birds. It makes bleeding 100000000000 times easier.

http://www.zeroyon.com/index/content/view/32/47/

or get the line from the master to the slave at taka
http://www.takamotorsports.com/

[drkidd22]

Thanks for all your responses. I was playing with the master cylinder and noticed it had very low fluid, so I decided to take it off and clean it and so I did. Just one question, does the fork thing has a spring inside right, that if I push it in it should release back right? if it is like that mine wasn't doing that. I then put it back in place and tried to bleed the slave cylinder and I broke the nut to bleed the air, So I'm really down to replacing both parts and taking the devil box out of the way. So for the slave cylinder on the SR tranny, which one should I get, from a KA like an altima or something?

[Sr20det>Ka24de]

Thanks for all your responses. I was playing with the master cylinder and noticed it had very low fluid, so I decided to take it off and clean it and so I did. Just one question, does the fork thing has a spring inside right, that if I push it in it should release back right? if it is like that mine wasn't doing that. I then put it back in place and tried to bleed the slave cylinder and I broke the nut to bleed the air, So I'm really down to replacing both parts and taking the devil box out of the way. So for the slave cylinder on the SR tranny, which one should I get, from a KA like an altima or something?

how bout a slave from like a 240?:loco:

[sr20boostn20]

its stuck down and is hard to come back up,

that seems to me that the master cylinder is good it just needs to be blead,

my master cylinder is bad and the pedal gets stuck down but come s back up and regains pressure wiht ease.

i have a small leak by the seal.

[drkidd22]

how bout a slave from like a 240?:loco:

Well I was just saying since the Altima (94-01)has a 2.4 KA too. Only difference is it's front wheel drive.

[PhilthyS13]

Oem slaves are cheap as it is.

http://www.frsport.com/FR_Nabco_Tokico_Clutch_Slave_Cylinder_Nissan_240SX _p_1243.html

Masters aren't too bad either

http://www.frsport.com/FR-Nabco-Tokico-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Nissan-240SX_p_1244.html

Shop around, maybe you can find a better deal. I would just replace both, rather than have one crap out and have to do it all over again.

[drkidd22]

Ok so I got the parts in, Master and Slave cylinder with a steel hose to bypass the dampener loop. It was all installed and now my problem is trying to get some pressure in the line. I did get some pressure on when I pressed the clutch, but it still felt like it needed more pressure. I don't know if I'm bleeding it right. Any ideas would be appreciated. And the part that was really bad was the slave cylinder, It was tuck, rusted, ugly and just simply broken.

[PhilthyS13]

If fluid leaks out of the slave, it's definitely shot. That's how I knew mine was dead. Of course, at the time I didn't know about the dampener and spent all day Saturday and Sunday in my parents' driveway in December bleeding before push starting it to drive 5 blocks running stop signs to my mechanic, only to end up sending it to the dealer for a very pricey power bleed after which time my clutch started to slip (ah, memories...)


Just keep at it till no more bubbles come out. Clear tubing helps keep fluid from jizzing out all over the place and also makes bubbles easier to see. If you have a friend to help you it goes quicker. If all else fails, speedbleeders work too. But that sucks because you have to keep sliding under the car, getting back out and sliding back under the car.

I still have my hardlines, but I can imagine that if the line "apexes" (you know, the top of the arch) above the master that air can sit up there (someone please correct me if I'm wrong), so possibly try keeping it level/ lower than the master where possible.

Also check the threaded rod where the master connects to the pedal - it won't feel right if it's adjusted too far out or too far in. To adjust it, you'll have to crack the slave (well, I couldn't push it in - maybe I'm weak).

Good luck, once you figure it out it's much easier. And then hopefully you'll won't have to deal with it for a long time.

[loganmbyers]

this also happened to my clutch. there wasnt enough pressure and it felt too muchy. I was told to pump the clutch 4-5 times and then bleed. after doing this a couple times i got the right pressure in the lines.

[DJ_Sunrise]

Buy OEM parts from the Nissan dealer, not from FR. I don't know why they advertise their parts as oem, when they do not come in Nissan packaging. At any rate.. A slave cylinder runs around $50 from Nissan. Don't think you can get away with a cheapie from vato zone, or pep boys.. They have a tendency to blow out frequently. :rl: I've actually replaced about 6 cheap slaves on my 240s..Until I decided to go OEM.. which will and has lasted much longer.

The master cylinder will leak once it is blown. No leaks, not blown.

The rubber seal wears out on the slave cylinder. So if you see the fluid turning black, its the rubber seal wearing out.. And soon, it will.

-Bart


Oh and did I mention buy OEM OEM OEM, not labeled as OEM? :)

[drkidd22]

I think my problem is that I have to adjust the master cylinder and the clutch pedal, I have to bring the pedal a little higher. I will try that out today and see how it goes. Thanks for you replies.

[Slidin240Wayz]

Make sure you properly bleed the system first before adjusting the rod.

[Neejay]

Also, don't forget a clutch speedbleeder :D

[drkidd22]

I adjusted the rod, bled the system, removed the dampner and after flushing out the old fluid and fill it up with new DOT3 I took all the bubbles out as per the FSM. Thing works pretty good now. Will post pictures later.