Brakes

[tnord]

Alright guys, here's the deal. I have the opportunity to run my car on a 3.5 mile road course for 30 min at a time all day long this summer.  I'm not concerned about anything on the car but the brakes holding up.  I'm looking for the most economical way to build a system capable of handling such a task.  Any suggestions on upgrades concerning duct work, pads, calipers, rotars, stainless lines, and fluid is appreciated.  I experienced severe fade with my Z32 once, and i really don't want to go through that again. (80mph into a 90degree right hander and the pedal goes to the floor)

[sspikey]

whatever you do after racing DO NOT put the handbrake on. my friend's rear brakes got all warped up cuz of that. if you got the money slap some brembos on there.

[tnord]

yeah, i'm aware of the horror's from applying the e-brake after a session, brembo's would be great......but notice the word economical in my initial post

[Takumi]

<a href="http://www.pdm-racing.com

Check" target="_blank">http://www.pdm-racing.com

Check</a> their brakes section. &nbsp;The prices for their rotors, pads, and brake lines are good.

use the z32's...upgrade to slotted/cross drilled...and get good brake shoes..use synthetic fluid

[sspikey]

<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>
i think he has a z32

[mbmbmb23]

Try and cool the brakes a bit. &nbsp;In GT mustangs, they used to take out the fog lights and install ram air tubes (where the fogs used to be) that put air right onto the brakes. &nbsp;See if you can do something like that. &nbsp;

P.S. &nbsp;Do you have the big brake swap in the back also?


M

[sykikchimp]

you can get slotted/cross drilled rotors for about $250 all around. &nbsp;I know a guy in california that got them for me. &nbsp;he'll ship them anywhere.

take the spalsh sheild off for added cooling and get some sports pads thats probably most economical

and also some racing dot 4 fluid.

bleed your brake sys completly

[tnord]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Quote: from sykikchimp on 10:19 pm on Dec. 27, 2001
you can get slotted/cross drilled rotors for about $250 all around. I know a guy in california that got them for me. he'll ship them anywhere.
</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

i'd like to know more about these rotors, like how big they are, what size wheel they require, and how i can get them, 250 sounds pretty cheap, just outa curiosity, what would the Z32 conversion cost?

what brand of pads would you guys recommend? splash shield.......is that the big black metal things behind the rotors? what adverse affects would that have and how difficult is it?
thanks for all your help

the spalsh sheild is the black backing plate. only adverse affect i can think of is your rotors would be more prone to rust due to more water being accesible to them. unless anyone can think of something else negative thasts it for me plus im tired

[HippoSleek]

Okay, I will respectfully disagree w/ about 90% of what's been said. &nbsp;I've tracked my car under similar circumstances and know a bit about the brakes...

Good enough - your rotors, great pads, great fluid. &nbsp;I used my rotors (new and came w/ the car, but not Brembos) with CarboTech Panther Plus pads. &nbsp;I've used two different types of fluid - Wilwood 550 (boiled my last session!! &nbsp;never again!!) and Motul 600 (safety!). &nbsp;I'd recommend the new Motul 600 formula (forgot the name) - you will likely have to order it online. &nbsp;Flush whole system and refill/bleed. &nbsp;The pads easily held and I was not treating them kindly. &nbsp;These are, in many road racers opinions, the best pad on the market for the money ($136 shipped). &nbsp;Go to www.carbotecheng.com

Better - upgrade to Brembo blanks (i.e., not slotted or x-drilled). &nbsp;These offer the best braking performance and are the least likely to crack or eat pads. &nbsp;I hate drills and slots b/c they are more for looks than performance. &nbsp;Anyway, the newer rotors won't bite any better, but them may last longer. &nbsp;Do a search to see why I saw this - I've explained at length.

Best - z32 upgrade. &nbsp;Requires calipers, rotors, pads, and conversion lines. &nbsp;PDM sells the lines and you can find the rest in many places. &nbsp;Use pads and fluid as above. &nbsp;Cost could be as low as $600 if you use junk yard parts. &nbsp;The only known drawback is mushy pedal feel at the threshold b/c of master cylinder issues. &nbsp;Don't event start me on doing a four wheel + z32 MC swap. &nbsp;ugh!

Ducts are a fair idea. &nbsp;They require a lot of homework on routing though and can do more harm than good if improperly installed. &nbsp;Dust cover keeps debris off the rotors and also is a factor is cooling. &nbsp;I would not remove it w/o having bigger caliper/rotor or ducts. &nbsp;Anyway, the set up above has worked for me and this on a brake intensive circuit. &nbsp;Good luck - mark