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View Full Version : Overfender question for BODY SHOP guys.


gotta240
03-29-2008, 11:29 AM
If you don't have experience or don't know, please dont waste both of our time with a reply.

I am throwing some s14 B-magic 30mm overfenders on. I know they aren't the greatest and i know you get what you pay for, so please save the lecture. My two questions are...

1. We all know what low-quality fiberglass work looks like when painted with decent paint. -wavy-. I don't really want to smooth them out with bondo because it is so prone to cracking. Can i apply a layer of thickened fiberglass RESIN, allow it to dry, and block sand it down to a smooth finish?

2. This is a track car so it obviously will not be fully molded to the car. HOWEVER, i don't want it to look like pure shit either(as do most overfenders). All I want to do is to apply a bead of some type of caulk between the body and the overfender to smooth out the look just a little bit. This will also allow me to razor the bead of cauld and throw another overfender on if need be. WHAT TYPE OF CAULK SHOULD I USE? I was thining silicone but then i figured you body guys would have something better/more durable.

(obviously they will be riveted on. The bead of caulk is just to smooth out the LOOKS and prevents seeing a large ridge. After all, ruffles have ridges. not s14's)

Addicted2Kouki
03-29-2008, 03:31 PM
To answer your questions:

1. Adding thicker layers of fiberglass could add to the problem of cracking.
Fiberglass itself is not very flexible when used with any regular kind of resin.

Applying fiberglass and block sanding would be the same as block sanding the actual widebody overfender, only without adding a thick ass layer of fiberglass.
I would only put more fiberglass on top if the overfender was really thin.


2. Honestly, using something like caulk or silicone to fill in the ridge and painting that will look more like shit than just having that riveted look.

You cant really use anything other than molding it in because silicone is too flexible and the paint would crack.
Caulk would crack regardless, worse than body filler.

gotta240
03-29-2008, 08:46 PM
Thank you for the reply.

I didn't mean adding actual fiberglass to the fender, i mean adding fiberglass RESIN to give a little more material to sand smooth... That way i can take more off without getting the the fibers.

babowc
03-29-2008, 09:27 PM
If it's a track car.. why give a fuck?
Just slap it on and paint it..
it's not like you're gonna make a damn showcar..

Rayne
03-29-2008, 09:53 PM
What ever you do, don't use construction grade polyurethane adhesive.

gotta240
03-30-2008, 12:05 AM
What ever you do, don't use construction grade polyurethane adhesive.

Lol. I seriously thought about using the stuff. Care to explain why i shouldn't?



And to the other "track car" comment. I'm getting real sick and tired of this whole notion that every track car has to be a half assed, ugly as shit, aero'd out, pyle of parts. I don't see what the big deal is about spending an extra hour or two and doing shit a little better.

TougeLabs
03-30-2008, 12:29 AM
I agree with gotta240...I dont see to many guys running riveted rear qtrs at limerock i just see a ton of amazing gt-3s exiges etc...seeing a nice s chassis at a track would be nice. My car has molded rear qtrs but weight in my type of racing is my friend and if i wreck the car is done anyway :)

Go for it dude its worth it