Removing s14 Radiator support - HELP

[BobbyDigi]

Hey guys, searched around, couldn't find a decent answer. I am switchign from a modified V-mount rad support to a stock rad support, there is a local guy with a junk s14 that is going to let me come down and remove it myself for 100 bucks.

Has anyone removed a s14 (or even s13) radiator support?

--- What tools are involved?
--- Can you map out the process?
--- What complications did you run into?


If i were a betting man, I would assume that i would need to drill out the factory press welds. But what else?

Any insight would be phenom.

[Dream240]

Really that's it. If he's got the front end completely stripped down to just the front radiator support, then just getting through the tack welds and it's off. I can't remember how many exactly there are but I know for sure there's two on top and maybe two somewhere down near the frame rails...?

I've never actually removed one but I would think the reattachment process whould be easy if you've got someone with a welder handy. If not, I wonder if you could just use nuts/bolts and drilled holes to secure the support to the front end?

Now you've got me curious.

Well, good luck.

[projectRDM]

There's a few ways to do it, depending on your plans. The entire piece is spot welded, there's a total of about thirty you have to drill out. In between the frame rails there's two on top, two on the side, and two on the bottom. There's a few above the rails on the side, there's three on either top side below the fender on the apron, and there's a line of them below the headlight buckets. The way I remove them to sell is to drill the frame rail and apron welds then just sawzall the rest off, whoever buys it can trim and grind the remaining sheetmetal as needed. You can also just sawzall a few inches behind and cut the entire front clip off, then cut/grind the excess metal off.

[jibanez]

I actually got mine off at the junkyard with just a hammer and flathead screwdriver. Took about 30 minutes but it was worth it :D

[BobbyDigi]

^^^ so you just used a hammer and screwdriver to pop the tack welds?

[jibanez]

^^^ so you just used a hammer and screwdriver to pop the tack welds?

Swear to god bro, but it was biatch getting it.

I would recommend the drilling hole thing though. It's way easier but that wasnt an option at the time.

[BobbyDigi]

There's a few ways to do it, depending on your plans. The entire piece is spot welded, there's a total of about thirty you have to drill out. In between the frame rails there's two on top, two on the side, and two on the bottom. There's a few above the rails on the side, there's three on either top side below the fender on the apron, and there's a line of them below the headlight buckets. The way I remove them to sell is to drill the frame rail and apron welds then just sawzall the rest off, whoever buys it can trim and grind the remaining sheetmetal as needed. You can also just sawzall a few inches behind and cut the entire front clip off, then cut/grind the excess metal off.

I will use this technique, i'm going to take my time and make it nice.

What size drill bit would you recommend?

Also, another qustion just for clarification... The only thing holding the support on should be tack welds right?

SO a drill and a bit should/could be the only thing i need to remove it??? right?

[projectRDM]

I will use this technique, i'm going to take my time and make it nice.

What size drill bit would you recommend?

Also, another qustion just for clarification... The only thing holding the support on should be tack welds right?

SO a drill and a bit should/could be the only thing i need to remove it??? right?

The tension rod brackets will need to be unbolted. I'd use a 1/2" bit, it's way bigger than you need but the welds don't always drill clean. Take a 5/16" to start them though, then step up. Bring extra batteries, you're drilling a LOT.