studs or lugnuts

[chuy]

So last week started the SCCA event and I couldnt compete because I broke a tire stud at 10 in the evening. I went out and bought a tourqe wrench, tourqed them down to 100. Goto the track today to change wheels and snaped off another one.

Is it cheap studs or lugnuts that leads to the problem?

[shade]

72-87 ft lbs. is what it says in the FSM to torque down the lug nuts. You probably have been over tightening them over time without a torque wrench that it finally gave way. You shouldve bought one before you started racing. You also may have just read the wrong reading on the torque wrench. Did you replace all of the studs when the first one broke?

[sac]

^^ i agree.. It stretches the studs to over torque the nut on there. I learned this one the hard way too. (was awhile ago..) Now that you know the proper specs, get a torque wrench, buy all new studs, and replace them all, and torque them properly. You shouldnt have any problems.

[racerjake]

Replace all of the studs on your car. These are OLD cars, and when you race them you periodically change wheels or heat and cool your wheels severely - the studs do fatigue. You can count on your other studs breaking soon as well.

[LA_phantom_240]

^^ i agree.. It stretches the studs to over torque the nut on there. I learned this one the hard way too. (was awhile ago..) Now that you know the proper specs, get a torque wrench, buy all new studs, and replace them all, and torque them properly. You shouldnt have any problems.

Yep. Torquing studs to their yield point can also cause lugnuts to back off and become projectiles at highway speeds... I learned this the hard way.

[chuy]

So is there any specific studs and nuts that you guys run, Im running Auto Zone specials.

[LA_phantom_240]

A lot of guys seem to like the nismo or the ARP studs. I hear nothing but good about ARP.