HELP! car sounds funny and won't accelerate

[steezy]

I got a 90' s13 with a ka24e and i drove it to work just fine.
but when i got out of work and I just turned my car on and it barely started and was idling kind of low and it was shaking pretty hard while idling . I got on the road and after awhile i noticed my car would not accelerate like usual. I was in 2nd, and i got all the way up to 5,000 rpm and my car was barely moving. I had to give it alot of gas just to move in every gear. The car also does not sound the same, the exhaust sound got deeper ( sort of like a subie). of course it might just be might gay ass hks super dragger.

also, it seems like i have huge loss of power, i havent tryed it at WOT yet, but im pretty sure it wont make it there. i also jsut repalced my sparkplugs,cap, rotor,wires, etc. so i know it cant be any of those.

Anyone have any ideas what the problem could be. im really stuck, and can not figure out what the problem is. Any future help would be great. thanks

[sumoboi7]

i heard somewhere that if ur car sounds like a subie then you blew a rocker or ur running on 3 cylinders. if u have an sr it is good to have rocker arm stoppers cause it is notorious for floating rockers at high rpm. you might need a rebuild. good luck with fixing it hope it dusnt cost too much money.

[s13gold]

injectors man.
i just had this problem.

its a dead injector.

let me help u out.


turn on your car.
unplug the injector from the clip. one by one.
if the shaking gets worse move to the next one.
if the shaking stays the same then replace that injector.

or if u need more detailed info. just pm me.

[slow40sx]

i'm gonna say injectors cause the same shit happened to my car recently, my number 1 injector was fuckin up so i put lucas fuel system cleaner in and it runs great and pulls hard, so grab a bottle of lucas fuel system cleaner at ur local auto parts store and put it in ur gas tank make sure u got atleast a half a tank and then take ur car for a drive, it should clear up within minutes, and if that does nothing unplug ur injectors one at a time at idle and listen for the one the doesn't make much difference that will be the fuck up one and just replace it, gl bud

damn u s13gold u edited ur post, now i look like a dumbass haha

[sumoboi7]

damn. i learned something. imma remember this.

[steezy]

thanks. i hope its just an injector. sumoboi scared the shit out of me with that 3 cylinder thing. haha thanks for the input

[!Zar!]

Check your injector O rings.

[s13gold]

thanks. i hope its just an injector. sumoboi scared the shit out of me with that 3 cylinder thing. haha thanks for the input

if it is the injector be careful taking that shit off.
mine was a pain in the ass even with wd40.

i just wrapped a towel around my pliers so i would rip the fuck out of plastic on the injector.

[Sr20det>Ka24de]

Any Trouble codes? If it idles fine a injector isn't dead, if it stumbles on acceleration may be a partially clogged injector, May be a MAFS issue a MAFS will cause a your ka not to go above a certain rpm due to rich or lean misfiring, Also something you can try quickly without any cost, check your distributors internals for oil leaks then remove your rotor in the distributor and then finally that black cover and the bottom, it is there to protect the cam angle sensor, if the is oil there replace distrib. if not try blowing compressed air into that sensor to clean the pick up and wheel even some dust/dirt can foul up that sensor enough to give poor acceleration, good luck I am a nissan tech let me know if you need and info on usdm systems

[racepar1]

Your car 100% for sure has a misfire. Once you figure out which cylinder isn't firing (by un-plugging the injectors 1 at a time untill you find the one that does not make the car run worse than it already does) you need to test the resistance of the injector on that cylinder. The resistance should be about 12ohms. It is a real bitch to pull the injector out though as the o-rings get stuck pretty damn bad. If all the injectors ohm out good then pull off the plug wire and test for spark. If that is good then do a compression test, which doesn't take very long. If everything checks out good then I would suspect the injector o-ring on that injector took a shit. It is REALLY common for injectors to take a shit on 240's, I have gone through 2 of them myself.

[krazydriver]

Definately sounds like an injector

if it is the injector be careful taking that shit off.
mine was a pain in the ass even with wd40.
^ knows what he's talking about. I soaked mine in PB blaster for 3 days before i could get them out.

So soak them in something, then make sure you can twist them side to side.
Then, what i found works the best, is take the injector cap and screws off. Then put the screws back in, Then use 2 screwdrivers, one for each side and you can usually pop out the injectors without causing too much damage.

[steezy]

yeah i think its the injector for sure now. i just took a look at them and one looks like its leaking, but i played with it a bit,turning it around and stuff. and i left the car alone for awhile and it started up just fine, but now my check engine light is on

[!Zar!]

9/10 the code is 45 for a leaking injector.

Buy some silicone spray and some new orings.

Also buy some hose pliers from the local auto parts store. It'll make your life SO much easier.

Dont be ghetto. The fix is less than $20. Just because it's kind of ok doesn't mean you shouldn't fix it.

FC owners try to do that and next thing you know the car catches on fire.

[Aeroscraper326]

Check to see if your spark plug wires are completely attached/in contact with the plugs, Or check to see if it's something to do with the plugs. This happened to me, and i had the same EXACT symptoms.

[steezy]

9/10 the code is 45 for a leaking injector.

Buy some silicone spray and some new orings.

Also buy some hose pliers from the local auto parts store. It'll make your life SO much easier.

Dont be ghetto. The fix is less than $20. Just because it's kind of ok doesn't mean you shouldn't fix it.

FC owners try to do that and next thing you know the car catches on fire.


i understand the new o-rings, but whats silicone spray for?

[racepar1]

The o-rings fit VERY tight in the fuel rail and unless you lube them they will never go in, without ripping them at least. Be extremely careful when removing and installing injectors as it is very easy to damage the o-rings or ruin your core (if you bought a re-built injector from a parts store, if you didn't then the core doesn't matter). I learned this the hard way on a j-30. On the vg30's you have to remove the upper intake manifold, which is a horrible fucking bitch, to do the injectors. I didn't lube the o-rings the first time and they ripped. I had to do it all over again to install new o-rings. Then I had another problem (which wasn't my fault THIS time) and I had to remove it AGAIN! Took about 2 hrs to get it off and 2.5 hrs to put it back the first time, by the third time I had that bitch off in 30 mins and back on again in 45 mins. This is not a good way to learn how to do a job fast!

[Sr20det>Ka24de]

The o-rings fit VERY tight in the fuel rail and unless you lube them they will never go in, without ripping them at least. Be extremely careful when removing and installing injectors as it is very easy to damage the o-rings or ruin your core (if you bought a re-built injector from a parts store, if you didn't then the core doesn't matter). I learned this the hard way on a j-30. On the vg30's you have to remove the upper intake manifold, which is a horrible fucking bitch, to do the injectors. I didn't lube the o-rings the first time and they ripped. I had to do it all over again to install new o-rings. Then I had another problem (which wasn't my fault THIS time) and I had to remove it AGAIN! Took about 2 hrs to get it off and 2.5 hrs to put it back the first time, by the third time I had that bitch off in 30 mins and back on again in 45 mins. This is not a good way to learn how to do a job fast!


HAHA u don't need to pull the upper intake manifold to do 300z or j30 injectors, thats a waste of time. take a carbide cutter to the edge of the manifold above the screws on the injector hold downs just enough so the screw driver can get a straight shot at the screw, this manifold is thick enough just only cut off enough to get a screw driver in there then use long flat screwdriver to pry injector back and forth to work it out. Replace all injectors! then you can go back with a port and polishing set and polish the manifold where you cut into it, this step is optional but will look nice and make the manifold look like it was made this way, now you will be able to get to your injectors later! Trust me this is much quicker than pulling the intake-:bigok: will try to post a pic