cranking an engine

[wangan_cruiser]

wonderin if u can do a compression test while the engine is out of the bay? anyone knows?

[slider2828]

I think you can.... Can anyone confirm just connecting the starter to a 12v battery? I think you do need the tranny and everything....

[wangan_cruiser]

what im thinking is just connect the starter to the battery then ground it somewhere in the engine but not sure

[boogerlovers]

i dont think you will be able to do it unless you can find something to bolt the starter to, cuz yeah that shit does crank the flywheel...haha, you could have someone who is buff hold the starter (dont recommend this at all just an idea :loco:) while you supply power to the starter...

[racepar1]

I would get a remote starter switch. Any tool dealer will know what that is. It is basically a push button that mechanics use to crank the motor while they are under the hood, rather than walking around the car and hitting the ignition key. But ya just hook a battery up to the main power wire on the starter and hook the remote switch up to the start signal terminal on the solenoid. Just ground the battery to the block somewhere. Tou could try to use a jumper wire to get it to crank, but it will be harder to control and will most likely spark when you first make the connection.

EDIT: The transmission must be attached to the motor as that is what the starter attaches to.

[NI_YON_Zenki]

well, when you tend to crank the engine, all you will need is a 12 volt power source to the starter, you would need the alternator and belts to keep it running.

Simple crank is to get the piston(s) to set and press for an accurate reading. once, twice 3 times the lady.
the only other issue would be proper compression "at install" what I mean is the exhaust manifold connected to piping and radiator hooked up with the intake setup as well. I think this will change compression readout, w/o all this, you will have to handicap the compression readout?

I've only compression read an engine in the bay. outside would work for a tuning shop or someone in engine (block) repair.

[wangan_cruiser]

let say intake and exhaust manifold are connected but shit i forgot i dont have any belts yet...LOL

[slider2828]

I don't think you need belts... Just all the manifolds connected and tranny with starter. Positive on the battery... tap neg side on the neg terminal... I thnk ou will be good. Just hold open the throttle... I don't think you need the intercooler or anything hooked up.

[zugoi]

You need the Timing belt connected of course but not he accessory belts. They wont do much to change the read out, maybe couple psi but not a whole lot. As for intake and exhuast same thing. With all those things off you should still get a read out telling weather or not the engine can create enough compression.

[slider2828]

we have internal timing chain so no need for belts.

[soreballz]

^240's don't use timing belts.


EDIT: Slider beat me to it. lol

[wangan_cruiser]

i meant belt for ac and ps...nvm hehe

[rps13drift]

Leak down test! I did one to my motor out of a car after i did headgasket/cams and all that jazz

[slider2828]

Yah leak down would be perfect.... depends if he has a compressor and a leakdown testor...

[justaKAiswear]

you would have to have the starter bolted up, meaning you would need to attach the tranny. just running power to the starter and grounding to the block would work. You would need the manifolds on, and a remote starter switch for $20 would make the job a lot easier. Really a 2 person job, but with the switch, you could do it with one pretty easy.

If your worried enough to do a compression test, I would def. do a leakdown as well. Neither are very expensive.

[slider2828]

Since you are in the bay area wangan... I think you can get a leak down tester at autozone.... but you still need a compressor...

[projectRDM]

Geez what a shitty ass thread. I love how things keep getting more and more misinformed in here instead of people actually learning.

You do not need the transmission. Bolt the starter in just like you would but use shorter bolts, or use a smaller pitch bolt and a nut on the back side. Or worst case, use the OE bolts and a seatbelt bolt spacer if you really can't find anything else. That's just common sense, I'm surprised no one thought of that.
You do not need belts attached either. If you're only doing a compression test the engine isn't going to start and stay running, so there's no need to worry about running water through the block or having power steering or A/C. Think about it, it's out of the car. Do you really need power steering? Hook a battery to the starter and jump the solenoid wire. Done. I've tested numerous engines just like that for compression and leakdown.

[Dream240]

Dang Russ, it took you a whole day to find this thread. You're slippin'!!! :p

And as usual, he's right on. Just follow his steps to get the results. Done.

[projectRDM]

Dang Russ, it took you a whole day to find this thread. You're slippin'!!! :p

And as usual, he's right on. Just follow his steps to get the results. Done.

I've gotten to the point where all the threads blend into one big cesspool of bad information, ignorant remarks, and general misleading. It's hard to decipher what's worth replying to.