The unofficial "little tech tips" thread.

[SHIFT_*grind*]

I thought it might be useful to have a running thread of technical tips people have picked up in their experience working on 240s. Ways to save time installing/removing parts, clever (or even not so clever) solutions to problems you've had...basically anything that you think might help someone out, in any way, the next time they start wrenching on their S-chassis.

Even things that you feel dumb posting because it seems like common sense, post up anyway because it might not be common sense to someone else :)


Shift knob facing the wrong way?
I have an AMS Hammer shift knob; really heavy, feels great, very simple looking, but every time I put it on, it would turn a little further so eventually it was turned at an angle :-/ Weak threads or something. If your knob does this, get a 10mm x 1.25 hex nut, and hand tighten it down onto the shifter. Screw the knob all the way down on top of the nut until it stops, and mark the angle the knob sits at. Take it off, and torque the nut through that same angle. (i.e. if the knob faces backwards, torque the nut 180*) Now when you screw the knob all the way down, it should stop solid facing the right way.


If you're going to be removing your O2 housing on your SR T25/28, make a small investment in some stubby open-end wrenches; saves you some time by making it a lot easier getting around that fucking steering shaft.


Post up! =D

[punxva]

subscribed, i'll post some up when i get out of class

[UNISA JECS]

DIY auto pilot bearing removal and manual pilot bearing install.

Here what I use when im doing an auto to 5 speed swap I think some people will find this useful:

To remove the auto pilot bushing I use a 1/2" extension with a 9/16" socket that has been slightly (modified) grinded to fit snugly into the auto pilot bushing and then simple push down and and pull up repeaditly until it wiggles it self loose, this works good!

Next to install the manual pilot bushing without damaging it first I soak the pilot bushing in motor oil for about 15-20 minutes for godo measure, then from my auto transmission I jack the input shaft from it which pulls right out (which can also be seen in teh pictures) use this to install the pilot bushing by placing the manual pilot bushing over the shaft and gentle tap with a hammer or mallet.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/P1070002.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/P1070001.jpg

[lostmenoggin]

If you're going to be removing your O2 housing on your SR T25/28, make a small investment in some stubby open-end wrenches; saves you some time by making it a lot easier getting around that fucking steering shaft.

What I did to remove my O2 housing was take an *extra* wrench I had laying around and cut it in half with a cut off disk. Grind down the sharp edges and wrap the cut end in duct tape. Works like a charm!

For removing the snap ring on my T25 I HIGHLY reccomend using a set of heavy duty 10" ratcheting snap ring pliers. The ratcheting type locks so you don't have to work too hard to keep the pliers closed while pulling the ring out and makes them much safer to use than regular pliers.

[clark]

when working on a car, that is say driven often, or is your DD always have spare fastners,studs,bolts,nuts. the reason being is if you snap a critical bolt, you're screwed (no pun intended) and won't be able to go to work the next day lol.

what i'm trying to say is, before doing a project like installing cams, replacing gaskets or whatever it may be, you should REALLY consider having a few extra bolts on hand in case one snaps or you lose one some how. this has happened to me and i DIDN'T have any spares and had to run around trying to find replacements.

in summary, have EXTRA correct bolts before doing things like removing/installing exhaust mani turbo cams things like that. when doing stuff that involves grade 8 and above hardware, one doesn't have to worry so much.

[undesiredshoe]

Drop the steering column when trying to access your cluster. Tilting the steering wheel down doesn't help. Undoing four bolts will help keep your bezel looking fresh and clean.

Use this stuff to seal your turbo to manifold, downpipe to turbo, etc
http://www.dukefire.com/c5d4bc30.jpg
$4 a tube at menards, home depot, ace...

[SHIFT_*grind*]

Hah, this was a success. :-\


For SRs, invest $3 in an oil filter cap wrench, makes it much easier to get off.

[Big Bronze Rim]

Hah, this was a success. :-


For SRs, invest $3 in an oil filter cap wrench, makes it much easier to get off.
That or use one of those rubber-mat jar openers to help you twist it off. The wrench is still better though.

[Jadeskyline]

Good idea for thread +1 rep for you...here is my contribution...ignore the hate in the thread lol
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=182370

[Sileighty_85]

A poor mans ball joint installer

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1758.jpg

[atutt]

I thought this might be a good thread to ask my question in.

Has anyone made their own 300zx front brake conversion lines? Using your exsisting 240sx brakes lines with the stock 300zx brake lines.

I searched and couldnt' find any DIY on it. Myabe I suck at searching?

[SHIFT_*grind*]

If making stainless brake lines is anything like making turbo lines, it probably wouldn't be worth your time. Someone made their own stainless turbo lines and made a thread about it (I think it was on this forum), basically reproducing Taka/Circuit Sport lines, and it came out only a little bit cheaper in the end.

New Z32 front conversion lines can be had for ~$60, so I can't imagine it being advantageous to make your own.

[atutt]

^I fully agree.
I was just curious to see if anyone had done it. Since I already have both sets of lines, I thought making my own maybe using them for another car or a budget track car or something. I dunno...

[ManoNegra]

^If you're in Socal, you can just go to Earl's in person and have them build you whatever line you need. Usually cheaper than some of the kits sold.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Can't get a jack under your l33t jdm low ride? 2x6 or even bricks will give that little bit of clearance needed.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
When doing a clutch job, loosening the motor mounts will allow the tranny to swivel and thus making the top bolts accessible with a long extension.

[steve shadows]

Hah, this was a success. :-


For SRs, invest $3 in an oil filter cap wrench, makes it much easier to get off.

Or just lube up the rubber gasket then don't over tighten, everyone over tightens your just support to seat it snugly then the pressure in the oil system will do the rest for you. :bow:


Then, just work on grip and shoulder strength. :bow:

[atutt]

^^ to ManoNegra -I live 2620 miles away from SoCal, lol.

[SR20d2fourT]

I used my belt to take my oil filter off from my SR. :}

[atutt]

If you are doing body and using Bondo try this.

Take a piece of wax paper larger enough to cover your work area and then some. Place the wax side against the Bondo and use any mind of squeegy and glide it along the Bondo. It will smooth everything out really well if you do it properly. Leaving the sanding process much easier and less aggrevating.

[Z U L8R]

for pilot bushings ("bearings") take it in your thumb and index finger. put your thumb over the hole and pour motor oil in it until it's filled up. take your index finger and squeeze. after a second or two you'll notice the oil going through the pours of the pilot bearing. they used to send them pre-lubed but epa stopped them from doing that.

Dave =]

[serturbo]

Or just lube up the rubber gasket then don't over tighten, everyone over tightens your just support to seat it snugly then the pressure in the oil system will do the rest for you. :bow:


Then, just work on grip and shoulder strength. :bow:

I agree. I could never see why people have so much trouble with their oil filters. I've never had problems with any that I've installed. The only ones I've had problems with were the ones on new cars. I swear there must be a 500 lb gorilla that works at the factory. His only job is to install oil filters.

[burnsauto]

HOW TO REMOVE INJECTORS WITHOUT DAMAGING THEM

yes it can be a pain when they've been sitting in there for awhile.

The steps for removing one injector from the rail
•1 - break loose the two screws holding the injector cap on
•2- remove both screws
•3- remove cap
•4- put screws back down into the threaded holes, about halfway down
•5- with two small flat head screwdrivers, put them in the small slots on each side of the injector
•6- using the screws you put back in as leverage, push down on the screwdriver handles, this should for the injector up out of its place.

Be patient with it, if you're not getting enough leverage, bring the screws out a little more, giving you more leverage.

Hope this helps some of you guys out:)

[BoostinGST]

Assembling AN lines: http://www.project-mayhem04.com/AN%20Fittings%20How%20To.html

[Kouki]

If you break off a bolt flush with whatever it was in, and drill it to use an easy-out, DON'T BREAK OFF THE EASYOUT! It will cause you so much trouble, most of the time you're better off and saving alot of time by just drilling the old bolt all the way out and retapping or using a heli-coil.

[JRas]

That or use one of those rubber-mat jar openers to help you twist it off. The wrench is still better though.

sandpaper works too

worst case scenario, stab a screw driver through the filter :P

or you can always get one of those oil filter removal wrench/tool :keke:

[SHIFT_*grind*]

Sometimes the wrench is necessary. Last time I put the filter on, I tightened it too much and I'm pretty sure I forgot to lube the rubber gasket first. The $3 cap wrench saved me a hell of a lot of aggravation =P

BTW, there's almost 0 room to use the screwdriver trick on the SR's oil filter. Too much shit in the way.

[ManoNegra]

Swapping Motor Mounts
--------------------------------------
Problem: not enough room to get mounts out/in
Solution: Loosen cross member ~1/2 inch and use a jack with a piece of wood to slightly raise the motor. That'll give you plenty of space to make the job a piece of cake.

[cronux]

when installing an engine/tranny, bolt the tranny xmember up first, as it will save alot of time.

oh, and for you ghetto hot rodders, 4 hockey pucks, and 2 bolts with washers and nuts= stiff assed motor mounts.
just drill a hole, and bolt that ish on, and be prepared for vibrations.

[Size]

1)if your Replacing any brake or power steering line and the 8mm or 10 mm fitting is is impossible to get off because of corrosion or just because your finding it a pain in the ass,. don't even bother with flare nut wrenches, just cut the line close enough to the fitting and use a socket and ratchet to remove the fitting its quicker, less frustration, and easier. and your replacing the line anyways.

2)replacing high pressure power steering line with a stainless braided line
don't forget crush washers,if you cant find the right size... Mazda ones work for the SR PS pump.

[atutt]

This is for the ass-hats who neg rep'd me for apparently not putting in a tip.
When they can't read.
If you are doing body and using Bondo try this.

Take a piece of wax paper larger enough to cover your work area and then some. Place the wax side against the Bondo and use any mind of squeegy and glide it along the Bondo. It will smooth everything out really well if you do it properly. Leaving the sanding process much easier and less aggrevating.

[adictd2b00st]

HOW TO REMOVE INJECTORS WITHOUT DAMAGING THEM

yes it can be a pain when they've been sitting in there for awhile.

The steps for removing one injector from the rail
•1 - break loose the two screws holding the injector cap on
•2- remove both screws
•3- remove cap
•4- put screws back down into the threaded holes, about halfway down
•5- with two small flat head screwdrivers, put them in the small slots on each side of the injector
•6- using the screws you put back in as leverage, push down on the screwdriver handles, this should for the injector up out of its place.

Be patient with it, if you're not getting enough leverage, bring the screws out a little more, giving you more leverage.

Hope this helps some of you guys out:)


so i tried this today... 1st injector, popped right out, has me thinkin "wow this works really good!" .... 2nd injector... starting to come up.... SNAP .... 3rd injector .... SNAP.... ugh :rant: god damn brittle plastic

[burnsauto]

so i tried this today... 1st injector, popped right out, has me thinkin "wow this works really good!" .... 2nd injector... starting to come up.... SNAP .... 3rd injector .... SNAP.... ugh :rant: god damn brittle plastic

damn that sucks! i've never had that happen with mine. (ive prob done it 20-30 times since i've known about it) how hard were you pushing down??...you gatta be gentle with her baby... ease her out.

[JesusFreakDrifter]

Drop the steering column when trying to access your cluster. Tilting the steering wheel down doesn't help. Undoing four bolts will help keep your bezel looking fresh and clean.

Use this stuff to seal your turbo to manifold, downpipe to turbo, etc
http://www.dukefire.com/c5d4bc30.jpg
$4 a tube at menards, home depot, ace...
i've taken my cluster out without lowering the steering column... it was trying to put it back in that cracked it

[cotbu]

S15 actuator modding, theres. enough room on the end to drill another hole.
about 3-4 mm away from stock, gave me 0.96bar

[nastjuid]

I'm not sure if this is real common knowledge, but if for some reason you need to take a stud out of something, like the exhaust side of the head...

Thread two nuts onto the same stud, then with two wrenches back the inner one out, and tighten the outer one, this way they lock into each other. You can then use a wrench to turn the inner nut which will make the stud act like a normal bolt. You can remove the stud and use the same method to install a new stud.


This was the greatest damn thing I'd ever seen done when I saw it for the first time :P

[adictd2b00st]

damn that sucks! i've never had that happen with mine. (ive prob done it 20-30 times since i've known about it) how hard were you pushing down??...you gatta be gentle with her baby... ease her out.

yea i've done injectors on 2 other sr's before without any real issues, for some reason this one was a real PITA! so much for selling those haha

[KA-T_240]

Disconnect the engine grounds when swapping motor mounts or removing the oil pan. You would think that after damaging 2 ground wires I would remember not to do that.


When you put your clamps or T-bolts on your IC pipes, put the bolt or screw you use to tighten them the way and angle that makes it easiest to get to when the bumper is on.

When installing your injectors. Use lots of lube(engine oil isnt the best stuff to use either), don't want to tear your brand new o-rings.

Need a Turbo gasket? Try going to your local diesel shop. They probably have them in stock, and are WAY cheaper then they are on most websites for our cars.

On a KA, when you have to take your cams off. Ziptie and mark your cam gears to the timing chain, that way they wont move at all. Also support chain so the chain stays tight on the bottom pully.Then you dont have to worry about your chain falling down and getting off at that spot.


Make your own pressure testers/boost leak finder. Use PVC pipe that matchs your piping where your MAF goes. THen get what ever you need to do to seal that up and put a fitting in it to hook air into it. It cost us like $5 to make ours. And now my dads Diesel shop uses it probably 3-4times a week, easy to find air leaks.

Remove the upper timing chain guide on your KA. The one that has 2 bolts on the top of your head between the cams.


S13 intake manifold emissions. Toss them in the trash. Makes it so much easier to get at your IACV.

DOWNLOAD the FSM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It is an amazing tool. The parts store books can be helpful at some times. But, the FSM owns everything else. Then you never need to worry about trusting someone else info over the internet.

Turbo info, look here. turbobygarrett.com

Look up the 240sx bible V1 and V2. Both have tons of info


I will have more.