KA24DE built internals.. Q inside

[babowc]

I did a quick mesurement on a built head I had.. for a 89-94 KA24DE
My clearances are as follows:

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
I .022 .024 .012 .012 .012 .012 .015 .013
E .014 .013 .011 .010 XXX .009 .014 .014

The XXX = nothing fit, not even .0015! yikes.

Anyways.. Intake clearance is supposed to be .012~.015 and Exhaust clearance was to be .013~.016, therefore I think it's safe to say intake valves # 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, are fine at where they're at..
And Exhaust valves #1, 2, 7, 8 should be good too, according to my measurements.

The question is now.. does the valve clearance HAVE to be checked on a warm head?
The FSM states to check the clearances on a warm motor..

If the above question is fine, how can I go about changing out/buying new shims?

Is there any possible way for me to adjust the valve clearance without getting new shims?

And.. my final question would be where I could buy new shims.
LMK guys.. I just need the head correctly shimmed and I'll be on my way to assembling the block.

#2:
Assembled crank today, but since this is my first time and all, I'm not 100% sure on how stiff the crank should be.. can anyone give me a rough estimate of how much pressure I need to apply to spin the crank??

I had to put a bit of pressure to spin it.. my clearances were good, but I'm not entirely satisfied with the spinning..
Also, I did apply molylube on all bearing surfaces before final assembly and cleaned off the plastigauge with goopoff. According to many other hotrod engine builders, lacquer thinner and such will work just fine removing the plastigauge.

I torqued the girdle down to 25ft#, then 45#, then 60# for the final torquing.

Just concerned/curious about the slight difficulty to spin the crank.


UPDATE: Got info from KA-T.org that the girdle may be out of alignment, causing the crank to bind on the thrust bearing (middle)

I'm going to have to take it apart and check what's up and lube it up some more.

Who knows how to align the girdle?...
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Please keep it to yourself if you don't know what you're talking about.. I don't need this thread cluttered up with ignorance.

[babowc]

Sorta answered my own #2 question.
According to KA-T.org, our beloved AMS decided to send me .15mm oversized thrust bearings.

Due to that, crank isn't rotating freely and can cause more accelerated wear on other bearings.
How shitty. Fucking AMS.

Another 3 day wait.

[louisdaboois]

to question #1,
1. They say that it's better to check on a warm head mainly because you'll get a fairly accurate reading for the clearances when the motor is at operating temperature, since metal expands. I just checked it at room temp and added .002" more clearance, just for safe measure.
2. When you take the cams off, you should be able to get a big set of needle nose pliers and pull the whole valve seat out. I feel that it's easier because you have more room to play with it. just get a small flat head, kind of like a percision screwdriver, and there should be a slit on the valve seat where you can slide the flat head in there and just pop off the shim itself.
3. there is no way to adjust the clearance without gettine new shims.
4. the only place i found them were at the nissan dealership. no auto parts place, where i live, were able to get them. The dealership is going to give you like a couple sheets of paper that have the sizes that they can get. If you're lucky, you'll be able to tell what sizes the shims are right away by the marking on top, but I doubt they'll still be there.

[babowc]

Gravy.

Found information on JWT's homepage: http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/CAM%20INSTALL%20INST%20FOR%20KA24DE.PDF

I'll have to start playing around with the shims.. ugh.

I'm not going to finish it this spring break.. :( (this week)

+1, thanks for the response man