View Full Version : Help! MY brakes are screwed up!?
s14nVa
10-24-2002, 11:41 PM
Tonight me and a couple of friends decided to embark on changing the brakes on my 95 240, we've done plenty of other cars, but this was the first time on the 240. The front went on without a hitch, the back is a totally different story. we jacked one end up, took of the tire, took the bleeder valve completely out (its sealed shut for some reason) and then pumped the lines clean. we try to recess the caliper, and it wont go, so we read in the chiltons that we gotta undo the emergency brake line, so we undo that, it still won't budge, then we proceed to take the caliper off completely, and it still WONT MOVE, we tried turning the piston clockwise with a pair of needlenose pliers, which was a total pain to get a grip on, and it still didn't move. the pads were worn compleletly down to the metal and had actually scared the crap outta the rotor. Anyone know why we're doing wrong? is there some trick to the back caliper were missing? TIA
-Mike
goodjuan
10-25-2002, 02:02 AM
Don't use needle-noses...get a friggin channel lock on it and grap the sides of the piston to turn clockwise....just don't pinch the sides of the rubber boot....the rubber boot will twist like crazy, but don't worry it won't break. but yeah...i have found that you can't get the torque you need tring to put the needle nose in the little notches...that's a waste of time imo(especially on older cars) channel lock or visegrips <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>
#include<s14.h>
10-25-2002, 02:57 AM
Ive had the same problem with my s14. I never had to take off the ebrake line tho. May i suggest some brute force...use some elbo grease man. =)
camppain
10-25-2002, 07:34 AM
wait why in the hell did you take the bleeder valve off? <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'> and what do you mean by its sealed shut? where you doing this to get all the old fluid out?
second to push the caliper back in you dont need to remove the e brake cables! they probably meant to make sure the e brake was not on, but not to take it off, and if this was not a typo then chiltens is smoking crack!
if your caliper will not go in at all it is siezed. you need new ones. it doesnt take that much effort to turn the piston back in(unless your going the wrong way)
camppain
10-25-2002, 07:37 AM
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (goodjuan @ Oct. 25 2002,3:02)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Don't use needle-noses...get a friggin channel lock on it and grap the sides of the piston to turn clockwise....just don't pinch the sides of the rubber boot....the rubber boot will twist like crazy, but don't worry it won't break. but yeah...i have found that you can't get the torque you need tring to put the needle nose in the little notches...that's a waste of time imo(especially on older cars) channel lock or visegrips <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'></td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
im sorry but that has to be the most sadistic method of turning the rear calipers in.
at least you could have sugested for him to go and buy the correct part to turn the caliper in it looks like a square and has different notches for diff cars and one side should have the right one for nissans.
dont give information that will not help in the future.
thank you
Tricky1980
10-25-2002, 08:29 AM
yea i had the same problem on my rear brakes 2 weeks ago, i couldnt get the rear driver side to go back in so i went to autozone and paid like 8$ for the little square looking thing and i held the caliper with like 3 hands and my brother turned the little square thing and it just rethreaded itself back into its seat or whatever you wanna call it.. dont just try and force it in.. you'll break something and thats bad... and i didnt take any cables off either, just unbolted the caliper.
JaY
s14nVa
10-25-2002, 05:41 PM
Thanks a million, we got it to turn with a channel lock, and went and bought the part to do the other side, since we hadn't started in on that. I think i gotta buy new rotors tho, they just sort of fell off when we took of the caliper, aren't they supposed to be sealed in there? oh well its always something new! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>
camppain
10-25-2002, 08:26 PM
rotors arent sealed onto the hub onlly with rust. apply some white lith grease on the hub and make sure you remove any foriegn debris/ruist from the hub to ensure you wont get pulsation or warped rotors
s14nVa
10-25-2002, 10:08 PM
Now this is kinda scarey, and confusing. We get the other one back on and it all goes well, when we go to do the other side, i went out and bought that little tool to turn it with a socket wrench (really handly, fits perfectly) well it will turn and wont go anywhere, so i thought, stupid tool is worthless, so i got out ye ole channel locks and tried it that way, again, it will spin in place and not recess back at all. so now we took that caliper completely out and its still doing it, what the heck does that mean? (besides this is the last time i change my rear brakes! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'> )
won't go anywhere?? are you sure you're turning it enough? (you probably need to turn it a good 180 - 270 degrees to get it to compress enough to fit back over the caliper) ...
There is also a rubber boot that stops dust from getting into the hydraulic mechanism behind the piston -- that will prevent the piston from turning freely, too... <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/eh.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':eh:'>
camppain
10-26-2002, 07:25 AM
do this
use a pick or something fine to lift up the boot spray rust penetrant in wear the piston sits under the boot then when you go to turn it back in push the piston in and turn at the same time.
s14nVa
10-26-2002, 10:44 AM
see the strange thing is the silver part with the notchs will just spin in place on top of the black part its connected to and it wont recess, i'll try the the rust penetration stuff to see if that will free it up.
... that sounds bad... You might consider trying to compress it with a vise if it spins but won't recess. That, or go to autozone and get a set of rebuilt calipers, trade in your old ones and pay the difference (something like $150 for the set of 4 calipers, I think) ... that might be a good way to go if you've been having any brake problems.
s14nVa
10-27-2002, 11:31 AM
is it bad to replace just one caliper? it seems its the back passenger side one that won't do anything, the other three went back on no problem.
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