Am I testing the igniter chip correctly

[Hashiriya415]

My car has started to run like a Subaru.
So I checked the igniter chip according to the FSM and seems that its failing because the first test it's got the opposite reading.
I wrote my readings in red.
Can anybody please verify with me that my test is correct and I need a new Igniter chip. Thank you very much for any help
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p6/Hashiriya415/PowerTransistorIgnitorChipTEST.jpg

[duffman1278]

I think I got those results too, except I was checking a Q45 ignitor. Mine work though, bought.

Edit: Have you checked for spark manually? Also, that you have power going to the ignitor and also to your coilpacks?

[Z U L8R]

first thing i'd recommend is for you to isolate which cylinder is misfiring.

start the car and with it running, unplug each coil pack one at a time. whichever one you unplug and it doesn't change how the motor's running whether it's unplugged or plugged in. that's your problem cylinder.

now for the easy ignitor test

*I TYPED ALL THIS BEFORE I WENT BACK & TOLD U TO ISOLATE THE CYLINDER*

unplug all 4 coil packs, on the plug, the wire that lines up with the "E" on the coil pack is your signal wire.

hook up a test light to the POSITIVE terminal on the battery. probe the corresponding E wire on your coil pack plug while your buddy's cranking the car, your test light should blink if it's getting the ground pulses from the ignitior. if it blinks on every cylinder then ignitor's not your problem. check plugs or check your injectors plugs and see if they're all getting ground pulses from the ecu as well.

while you got your test light out if you haven't found your problem yet.
look at the coil pack for the wire that has the - sign. test each coil connector - wire and make sure they're all getting solid ground at all times (key on or off etc)

if still haven't found ur problem out
connect it to a ground or the negative on the battery, turn the key to the on position. the middle wire on every coil pack should be your 12v wire if memory serves. on your coil pack it'll have a + sign. if any of your coil packs don't have power going to them, then see why or post that and i'll tell u what to do next.

DAVE =]

[Hashiriya415]

thank you Dave thats very good info, the first thing i did was disconnect the coils 1 by 1 and everything was even.
Next I'll try all the stuff you mentioned.

There is a lot've gas coming out the exhaust, its like someone using spray paint, and lot've backfire. So for some reason there is a lot've gas unburned.

I don't know if this would help to add, but with my T28 i was running stock boost until recent got a boost controller and on the first time running the car after setting 12psi, it ran but as the boost got higher and lot more power was made it would backfire after 6kRPM and the boost was hitting like 15psi peak.
For the next couple of hours I was setting up the boost control to keep it at a steady 12psi, and i got it to stay around there. But the next day i drove my car everything was fine and maybe after like 20miles later it started to run very bad, i first thought it was a boost leak but it wasn't that. Checked my fuel pressure checked timing checked all the spark plugs and nothing wrong, I also checked my compression and all 4cylinders were even.

[Hashiriya415]

ok, on + i have + when key on
the E has + too but i didn't crank the car ( battery was very low to lazy to charge it)
but the - has nothing key on or off, where does the - go to from the coils? is it just to a ground or is it like from the ECU

[Hashiriya415]

nvm i found where the ground goes i'm gonna go fix it now

[Z U L8R]

:D

so you unplugged all 4 coils one by one and they all changed how the car ran?

[Hashiriya415]

yes they all changed evenly, that means to me that it can't be that all of a sudden all 4 injectors failed or all 4 coils failed, it means something that controls the 4cylinders failed.

Yesterday i found out i have the ground but it goes to the E and not the - on the coil.
and the - gets the + from the igniter. I couldn't find a working test light so i used my multimeter and got + on all the coils when the car was idling, so that must mean that my igniter is working.

[Z U L8R]

is your problem a misfire or an occasional misfire? a hickup when wide open throttle? it breaks up in high rpms? what does running like a suburu mean to you?

Dave =]

[Hashiriya415]

well kinda like a Subaru. My friend owns one so he was joking with me and saying i turned it into a Subaru cuz it sounds similar.
As soon as I start up the car it starts running but every couple of seconds the engine shakes and stops, runs then bam u hear the little backfire again and u see the engine shake, and that cycle keeps on repeating at idle.
So its kinda like running right with lot've gas coming out of the exhaust and a backfire every like 3 seconds as it idles.

Once i started driving it if I floor it it backfires like crazy,
kinda like the Bee R car when the ignition gets turned off, just crazy backfiring pow pow pow pow pow and thats throughout the whole RPM range.
If I don't floor it all the way, like i press on the pedal 50% down it will not backfire as much but still it will do some backfiring.
And if i partially press the gas like 5% i can make the car drive from 1rpm through 7RPM with almost no backfire, but still a very little backfire.
So it seems the more boost the more backfire.