Building the SR20DET

[luke91]

Aside from replacing the pistons and rods, does anything else need to be reinforced, or replaced?  

Does the engine require any block work?

--luke

[luke91]

I know one of you know this.  

--luke

[DSC]

umm, yeah. &nbsp;what else is in the bottom end? &nbsp;Yeah, replace or reinforce it <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>

Pretty broad question though. &nbsp;Building the SR for what exactly? &nbsp;You can always ballance the crank. &nbsp;I know there's treatments and stuff for it, but I dono what. &nbsp;Bearings and stuff too.

[fast-datsun]

If your planning on running High boost the block need sleeved to ensure cylinders are round.. contack Mckinney Motorsport for custom sleeves and installation..

[sykikchimp]

balancing, blue printing, shot peanning, etc.. tons of procedures to sure up the bottom end.. you can buy forged pistons, rods, and cranks if you want. good thing for you is the Crank, and rods are forged from the factory on the SR. Pistons are cast. Resleeving the block would help in extreme situations.. The SR has been proven time and again to be good in stock form to over ~400hp.

If you want specific answers try to be a bit more specific in your questions.. &nbsp;such as goals, current situation, why you looking into rebuilding, etc..

[luke91]

OK, I'm planning on making 4000whp. &nbsp;

J/K.

I'm just building it up for about 450-500 whp. &nbsp;

This won't be for a while, though. &nbsp;I'm already planning on
pistons and rods, and balancing the whole rotating assembly. &nbsp;

I'm trying to avoid block work, like cylinder sleeving. &nbsp;

Is this really necessary? &nbsp;

--luke

[wherezmytofu]

a...the engine deamons have called me back..... <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>


450-500whp will take sum work, but not hard in a sr20det...

-iron ductil sleeves
-copper head gasket, thicker then stock <--u can get one in any local machine shop
-forged connection rods, pistons...pick the compression ratio that will wokr with ur psi, so u can drive it on the streets...on like 91 octane...hahahah
-aftermarket bearings
-larger oil pan
-block brace, i rember sum1 making one for the sr20, its a reinforment that goes in the oil pan area to strenghten aluminum blocks <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>
-arp bolts, all over

then of course u need to do sum simple things like:
balance the crank, knife edge it, polycoat it or micro polish it...actually u should poly coat or micro polish the crank, connection rods and pistons...if u dun do the pistons...at least sand them down a bit.

doing all that u should be able to run 800h[ savely &nbsp; <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':laugh:'>

[luke91]

OK, the only obvious problem to me is that ARP does't make studs or bolts for the SR20. &nbsp;
--luke

[Itsuki]

I would go with JUN Head and main crank bolts...

[luke91]

thank you

--luke

[jupiterl]

Do we have to balance the crankshaft when I put in new forged pistons and rods ?