Which suspension components?

[lonelydrifter]

Alright guys I am getting ready to overhaul the suspension on my car.
I already have coilovers and am looking to do all the little shit.
I want to know what everyone recommends. I will be driving my car daily for a while but will start tracking it for grip once other shit is done.
With that in mind I want to buy shit that can hold up to both conditions of wear.

Prices for:
Front Tension Rods
Rear Upper Control Arms
Rear Traction Links
Rear Toe Links

SPL - $930
Peak - $853
BattleVersion Set - $824
Powered By Max - $720
Megan - $525
Circuit Sports - $450

I didn't include Jic or Cusco because they are out of my price range and I think for the price SPL could more than suffice in quality in comparison.
Let me know what you guys think about these products, I have been leaning toward Powered by MAX because they look identical to PEAK and Battle Version but let me know guys I need some input from people who have used the products.

[ASIA]

I've dealt with both SPL and PBM, and I must say SPL is definitely worth the extra $200. Customer service is amazing and you can't beat their quality.

[steve_o1989]

SPL. Pay once, do it right, don't look back. Anytime anyone asks this question, SPL is always one of the first names to come up. They are offering quality parts and a good price. They use QA1 rod ends, which along with Aurora, are considered to be some of the best in the industy.

Peak Performance and Battle Version are also good brands. Powered by Max is pretty new, but they too seem to be creating a good reputation for themselves based on the pricing for the quality that they offer.

[bigOdom1]

i cant complain about spl in any way Kuah is top notch man, bought something that was a little bit of fab required to get it and he called me back afterwards to explain what else he sent me to fix the issue; always fast shipping and reasonable costs for everything. Oh yeah the quality is at the top unless they know someone else makes a quality piece then they sell it instead (s14 cusco ruca)

[jspaeth]

SPL for toe/traction rods.

Tension rods...whatever pillowball.
Upper pillowball mounts are good....take a lot of stress of your shocks.
Tie rods (inner/outer)


Dunno if you've replaced sway bars yet, but these make a gigantic difference....I Highly recommend Tanabe Sustec.

I Have TEIN tension rods, tie rods, and upper pillowball mounts, and am very happy with the quality.

CUSCO RUCAS......were expensive, but whatever.

SPL Traction, toe rods.....very, very sturdy and very reasonable price.

If those prices are for the total of all the parts, I would just do SPL....amongst those it's the highest, but will be the best quality as well....obviously you could spend more with other brands, but SPL is the way to go from here.

Also, do get sway bars and tie rods.

[Bubba]

keeping it goin, SPL all the way.

[LongGrain]

heres another for SPL.

[KA24DESOneThree]

Do you want the best available, or something that's pretty good?

I used to love SPL. Now that I've managed to get away from the groupthink that is Zilvia/car enthusiasts, I'm reforming that opinion. Their customer service is good, but their products certainly aren't the best.

A lot of SPL's stuff is only distributed by them, not made by them.

I have SPL-distributed sway bar end links. They're crap, frankly. The rod ends are total junk; an early 911 wiper arm uses a more stout piece. You can piece together your own for a fraction of the price and they'll last longer.

I have SPL-distributed lower control arms front and rear. They're crap, frankly. The rod ends are total junk, and the fronts are lacking anything resembling room to tighten up all the nuts. The rest of the hardware is mediocre. I recommend BV or Ikeya.

I have SPL-distributed RUCAs. The actual RUCA itself is ok, but the rod end is total junk. It is an early RUCA and I think they've upgraded the rod end quality a bit. I'd still recommend something like Peak Performance, if they're still even making parts.

I have Peak Performance toe and traction arms. They're great- ridiculously stout shaft, overbuilt bracket, Aurora rod ends. They're not meant for cars with subframe spacers, though, and I've got a couple stress risers as a reminder of that fact. I guess I should send them an e-mail...

I have SPL tie rod ends. They're decent. The threaded duraluminum hex tube is plenty strong, but I'm not a big fan of the QA1s and their shanks are pretty ugly. Both of my rod ends were TOTALLY worn out after a year and two months. Replacement pieces are cheap enough, but still I wonder if that'd happen if they were Auroras.

I have SPL tension rods. They're my favorite SPL piece. The body is very, very strong, the provisions for brake deflectors are cool, and they're just overall well-thought-out. Still, Peak's pieces have Aurora bearings and equal/better hardware.

My problem with Powered by Max:
Their stuff uses pressed-in spherical bearings, not rod ends. I haven't seen any of it up close, but at the price point the spherical bearings are not the highest quality. Also, they make fake two-piece brake rotors. That should be a sign.

My problem with Megan Racing/TC Sportline/Circuit Sports/Godspeed/etc:
They're imported crap. They're not imported from Japan, rather from Taiwan and China. They're completely generic rip-offs of real products. They're made of inferior materials with inferior quality control. They're cookie-cutter parts for cookie-cutter owners.

This is your chance, lonelydrifter. This is your chance to put up or shut up, to take the high road and build your car the right way or to miss the road altogether and build it the wrong way. You can take the blue pill and just go down the road many ignorant fools have taken and buy the inferior suspension pieces, or you can take the red pill and realize that you're better than that, and that you're tired of being spoon-fed lies by the "popular" kids, by the shops and by the eBay vendors.

We did this. Too many of us in the community took the blue pills because we're cheap or because other people told us to. Now look at the selection: everyone sells the cheap parts, and everyone's starting to phase out the quality parts. Push back! We control our shops, their success is based on what WE buy. Stop buying the crap and start asking for the GOOD stuff. We don't have to settle for what they have to offer if all they offer is mediocrity.

[LongGrain]

Do you want the best available, or something that's pretty good?

I used to love SPL. Now that I've managed to get away from the groupthink that is Zilvia/car enthusiasts, I'm reforming that opinion. Their customer service is good, but their products certainly aren't the best.

A lot of SPL's stuff is only distributed by them, not made by them.

I have SPL-distributed sway bar end links. They're crap, frankly. The rod ends are total junk; an early 911 wiper arm uses a more stout piece. You can piece together your own for a fraction of the price and they'll last longer.

I have SPL-distributed lower control arms front and rear. They're crap, frankly. The rod ends are total junk, and the fronts are lacking anything resembling room to tighten up all the nuts. The rest of the hardware is mediocre. I recommend BV or Ikeya.

I have SPL-distributed RUCAs. The actual RUCA itself is ok, but the rod end is total junk. It is an early RUCA and I think they've upgraded the rod end quality a bit. I'd still recommend something like Peak Performance, if they're still even making parts.

I have Peak Performance toe and traction arms. They're great- ridiculously stout shaft, overbuilt bracket, Aurora rod ends. They're not meant for cars with subframe spacers, though, and I've got a couple stress risers as a reminder of that fact. I guess I should send them an e-mail...

I have SPL tie rod ends. They're decent. The threaded duraluminum hex tube is plenty strong, but I'm not a big fan of the QA1s and their shanks are pretty ugly. Both of my rod ends were TOTALLY worn out after a year and two months. Replacement pieces are cheap enough, but still I wonder if that'd happen if they were Auroras.

I have SPL tension rods. They're my favorite SPL piece. The body is very, very strong, the provisions for brake deflectors are cool, and they're just overall well-thought-out. Still, Peak's pieces have Aurora bearings and equal/better hardware.

My problem with Powered by Max:
Their stuff uses pressed-in spherical bearings, not rod ends. I haven't seen any of it up close, but at the price point the spherical bearings are not the highest quality. Also, they make fake two-piece brake rotors. That should be a sign.

My problem with Megan Racing/TC Sportline/Circuit Sports/Godspeed/etc:
They're imported crap. They're not imported from Japan, rather from Taiwan and China. They're completely generic rip-offs of real products. They're made of inferior materials with inferior quality control. They're cookie-cutter parts for cookie-cutter owners.

This is your chance, lonelydrifter. This is your chance to put up or shut up, to take the high road and build your car the right way or to miss the road altogether and build it the wrong way. You can take the blue pill and just go down the road many ignorant fools have taken and buy the inferior suspension pieces, or you can take the red pill and realize that you're better than that, and that you're tired of being spoon-fed lies by the "popular" kids, by the shops and by the eBay vendors.

We did this. Too many of us in the community took the blue pills because we're cheap or because other people told us to. Now look at the selection: everyone sells the cheap parts, and everyone's starting to phase out the quality parts. Push back! We control our shops, their success is based on what WE buy. Stop buying the crap and start asking for the GOOD stuff. We don't have to settle for what they have to offer if all they offer is mediocrity.

whoa...

take the red pill. i took the blue one, but then i spit that shit back out and changed my ways. i dont regret it at all.

that was an excellent post, i'm still a fan of SPL though. but in the end i will probably go with Peak performance because that is what TF offers, and they are the only shop that is "local" to me, so i want to support them.

[veilside180sx]

I agree with a lot of your issues with things, but for the record a lot of the multilink is being done in house at SPL these days.

Do you want the best available, or something that's pretty good?

I used to love SPL. Now that I've managed to get away from the groupthink that is Zilvia/car enthusiasts, I'm reforming that opinion. Their customer service is good, but their products certainly aren't the best.

A lot of SPL's stuff is only distributed by them, not made by them.

I have SPL-distributed sway bar end links. They're crap, frankly. The rod ends are total junk; an early 911 wiper arm uses a more stout piece. You can piece together your own for a fraction of the price and they'll last longer.

I have SPL-distributed lower control arms front and rear. They're crap, frankly. The rod ends are total junk, and the fronts are lacking anything resembling room to tighten up all the nuts. The rest of the hardware is mediocre. I recommend BV or Ikeya.

I have SPL-distributed RUCAs. The actual RUCA itself is ok, but the rod end is total junk. It is an early RUCA and I think they've upgraded the rod end quality a bit. I'd still recommend something like Peak Performance, if they're still even making parts.

I have Peak Performance toe and traction arms. They're great- ridiculously stout shaft, overbuilt bracket, Aurora rod ends. They're not meant for cars with subframe spacers, though, and I've got a couple stress risers as a reminder of that fact. I guess I should send them an e-mail...

I have SPL tie rod ends. They're decent. The threaded duraluminum hex tube is plenty strong, but I'm not a big fan of the QA1s and their shanks are pretty ugly. Both of my rod ends were TOTALLY worn out after a year and two months. Replacement pieces are cheap enough, but still I wonder if that'd happen if they were Auroras.

I have SPL tension rods. They're my favorite SPL piece. The body is very, very strong, the provisions for brake deflectors are cool, and they're just overall well-thought-out. Still, Peak's pieces have Aurora bearings and equal/better hardware.

My problem with Powered by Max:
Their stuff uses pressed-in spherical bearings, not rod ends. I haven't seen any of it up close, but at the price point the spherical bearings are not the highest quality. Also, they make fake two-piece brake rotors. That should be a sign.

My problem with Megan Racing/TC Sportline/Circuit Sports/Godspeed/etc:
They're imported crap. They're not imported from Japan, rather from Taiwan and China. They're completely generic rip-offs of real products. They're made of inferior materials with inferior quality control. They're cookie-cutter parts for cookie-cutter owners.

This is your chance, lonelydrifter. This is your chance to put up or shut up, to take the high road and build your car the right way or to miss the road altogether and build it the wrong way. You can take the blue pill and just go down the road many ignorant fools have taken and buy the inferior suspension pieces, or you can take the red pill and realize that you're better than that, and that you're tired of being spoon-fed lies by the "popular" kids, by the shops and by the eBay vendors.

We did this. Too many of us in the community took the blue pills because we're cheap or because other people told us to. Now look at the selection: everyone sells the cheap parts, and everyone's starting to phase out the quality parts. Push back! We control our shops, their success is based on what WE buy. Stop buying the crap and start asking for the GOOD stuff. We don't have to settle for what they have to offer if all they offer is mediocrity.

[lonelydrifter]

Wow never expected a response that was so moving...

This answers many of the questions I had, I was going to look into what rod ends PBM used but now I know.

I also do only like buying quality shit and that is why it has taken so long to build my car, but in the end I guess it will be worth the wait.

Thanks for the input guys.

[shinhed]

SPL may have awesome customer service, but their parts are just as average as most of the eBay shit. The chrome on the suspension arms are easily pitted and prone to rust, and the early bearings were crap too. I don't know how good their new bearings are (still in the mail), but if I had to do it again, I'd think twice

BEFORE: Rusty
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/DSCN0163.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/DSCN0164.jpg

AFTER: Paint & powder coat
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/DSCN0166-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/030.jpg

[ASIA]

Wow, this sucks. My top two choices were SPL and PBM. I have yet to have any problems with SPL. PBM on the other hand, I was completely disappointed with. I bought brand new S14 RUCA's and then, when I opened up the box, the paint was already chipping. The welds looked like it was the welder's first day. Beefy, though, but kinda pointless if the components aren't fused together correctly. I have to look into Peak Performance.

[[email protected]]

I used to love SPL. Now that I've managed to get away from the groupthink that is Zilvia/car enthusiasts, I'm reforming that opinion. Their customer service is good, but their products certainly aren't the best.

A lot of SPL's stuff is only distributed by them, not made by them.


We are transitioning away from that -- we started by importing products from Japan, mostly NAMS but some Midori, Cusco, etc. I picked what I felt were the best examples for the application, and at that time these were some of the highest quality products on the market. Since then there is alot more competition, to remain competitive and to continue providing the highest quality products, we are now making more products in-house. Our v2 tension rods, v2 traction rods, v2 toe rods (only one on the market designed to clear the subframe bushings/spacers), v4 tie rod ends, and all our new 350Z/G35 suspension products are all fabricated, plated and assembled here in Texas. We will be releasing our v2 rear upper arms soon. We feel confident that these are the highest quality products available, perhaps someone who have had a chance to see our v2 toe rods compared to the competition could pipe in.

Remember that we also offer an upgrade program for customers who purchased our older products, this is pretty unique in this market, and I hope it demonstrates our commitment to customer service and quality.

[KA24DESOneThree]

Kuah, I have but one question/request: is there any way to make stronger tie rod end shanks? The reason I ask is not my experience with them but rather my experience with other suspension hardware. The tightening torque is so low and they've been revised enough to make me think that there is a strength issue with them. When it's done, my car's going to be running on 285 R-compounds and I just plain don't trust your tie rod ends to deal with the forces that entails.

I appreciate the fact that you're willing to come on this forum and talk about your products, and I'm definitely willing to listen to what you're saying.

[racepar1]

WOW! This is some of the most interesting reading that I have ever had the pleasure of stumbling upon here on zilvia. KA24DESoneThree, you are the man and absolutely correct. I actually had no idea that SPL was re-selling other companies arms under their own brand name. I have, however, heard that SPL's bearings are crap. I doubt it is the brand of their bearings that are the problem though. It is much more likely that they are just buying the bottom to mid range ends. I have a question for Kuah though. How do you get-off selling products that you don't even make, with inferior bearings, for significantly more than most other companies? I am SEVERELY dissapointed. I HAD a long list of parts that I wanted to buy from you, but now you guys will have to earn my trust and business back. Back to the point now though. If you wanna be safe with your suspension arms I would go with battle version. I have personally had a conversation with Alex about bearings and re-sold parts and his honesty really impressed me. I would trust his company to provide quality products.

[veilside180sx]

I can list off almost every JDM company that does/or at least has in the past sold parts manufactured by someone else. Don't pretend that no one else has done this and charged more for their label in doing so. Kuah stands behind everyone of the products that he sells, which is far more than I can say for the majority of players in the auto industry.

There almost is not a single company on earth that manufacturers every part that goes on their parts. Alex has made numerous comments about other suppliers, which the main thing to keep in mind is that he is one of them and in the end is in it to make money. Rebadging in this industry is not new, but almost the norm.

WOW! This is some of the most interesting reading that I have ever had the pleasure of stumbling upon here on zilvia. KA24DESoneThree, you are the man and absolutely correct. I actually had no idea that SPL was re-selling other companies arms under their own brand name. I have, however, heard that SPL's bearings are crap. I doubt it is the brand of their bearings that are the problem though. It is much more likely that they are just buying the bottom to mid range ends. I have a question for Kuah though. How do you get-off selling products that you don't even make, with inferior bearings, for significantly more than most other companies? I am SEVERELY dissapointed. I HAD a long list of parts that I wanted to buy from you, but now you guys will have to earn my trust and business back. Back to the point now though. If you wanna be safe with your suspension arms I would go with battle version. I have personally had a conversation with Alex about bearings and re-sold parts and his honesty really impressed me. I would trust his company to provide quality products.

[[email protected]]

We have made the tie rod ends about as strong as we could, they are cut from 4130 chromoly, with machined stress reliefs, heat treated to 160ksi, and electroless nickel plated to prevent hydrogen embrittlement. These were not cheap to make...

The low torque specs is due to the design, when tightening the bottom nut the top thread gets stretched as well. Since the bottom thread is much larger, a small torque there corresponds to a lot more torque on the top threads.

There is a strength issue with every tie rod end on the market, this is due to the multiplied stress from leverage of spacing the tie rod end away from the spindle. With each iteration we applied what we learnt about how to increase the strength of the product, then we sent out shank updates to our customers free. We now use the QA1 rod ends because they have the greatest misalignment capability available, and that allows customers to run less spacing on the tie rod ends without binding, on cars that are significantly lowered.

Our v3+ tie rod ends I believe has proven to be the strongest on the market. My time attack Z32 runs our tie rod ends, on the same set (incl. bearings) for the last 2-3 years, and we run 290 wide Pirelli slicks up front.

Kuah, I have but one question/request: is there any way to make stronger tie rod end shanks? The reason I ask is not my experience with them but rather my experience with other suspension hardware. The tightening torque is so low and they've been revised enough to make me think that there is a strength issue with them. When it's done, my car's going to be running on 285 R-compounds and I just plain don't trust your tie rod ends to deal with the forces that entails.

I appreciate the fact that you're willing to come on this forum and talk about your products, and I'm definitely willing to listen to what you're saying.

[[email protected]]

WOW! This is some of the most interesting reading that I have ever had the pleasure of stumbling upon here on zilvia. KA24DESoneThree, you are the man and absolutely correct. I actually had no idea that SPL was re-selling other companies arms under their own brand name. I have, however, heard that SPL's bearings are crap. I doubt it is the brand of their bearings that are the problem though. It is much more likely that they are just buying the bottom to mid range ends. I have a question for Kuah though. How do you get-off selling products that you don't even make, with inferior bearings, for significantly more than most other companies? I am SEVERELY dissapointed. I HAD a long list of parts that I wanted to buy from you, but now you guys will have to earn my trust and business back. Back to the point now though. If you wanna be safe with your suspension arms I would go with battle version. I have personally had a conversation with Alex about bearings and re-sold parts and his honesty really impressed me. I would trust his company to provide quality products.

I am not sure if there is actually a question, but I'll respond anway:

a. Selling the products for significantly more than other companies -- actually if you compare our prices on the parts from NAMS, Midori, Cusco, etc, they are priced very competitively.

b. Parts we don't make -- that decision was made when SPL was first started, several factors played into that decision, most of which is of no relevance here. But the basic idea was to pick what we felt was the best example of each product from different manufacturers, and combine it with products we do make, to offer a consistent lineup to customers, rather than have it be a hodgepodge of products from different manufacturers. Then we provide *our* warranty and customer service. We are not copying their products, and the manufacturers are aware of, and accept what we are doing, and continue to profit from our distributorship of their products. As mentioned, re-badging is not only common practice in this industry, but also in most other industries.

c. Crap rod ends -- some of the rod ends may not be the highest quality possible, but they are hardly crap. Many of our products have been in service for many years on their original rod ends. Rod ends do not last forever, they do have to be replaced every few years, replacement intervals would depend on how well they are maintained (ie. kept clean). We have never had issues like with some other companies with bearings failing or seizing (ie. those greasable rod ends that were "popular" for a little while). We are stepping up with the increasing call for highest quality rod ends in this market -- all our in-house products now use QA1 Endura ends where possible, QA1 2-piece chromoly ends when we need higher misalignment capability.

d. Perhaps you should listen to our side of the story rather than hearing a one-sided view from Alex? Alex is certainly not above re-selling or importing products.

No company, could, from day one, offer the best product ever, that cannot be improved on. For example, when we first started, there were many complaints of BV products rusting and seizing up, even breaking. Has BV improved their products since? Certainly. And we are doing the same thing, we continue to improve on our products, and provide service on all past and present products we sold. Ultimately I feel that is what makes us a good company. FWIW.

[Kouki]

^^^ Great parts. All of my multilink has came from SPL. Their prices aren't bad, they are quite a bit cheaper than several other companies. I've had their stuff on my car for about 3 years, daily driven for 2 of those years, in Nebraska, including winter with snow/ice and salt all over the roads, plus I live a mile down a gravel road that I drive everyday. NEVER had problems with the rod ends or threads siezing up. Never had a cracked part, in house or not, they are great about quality control. The stuff that they sell that is imported is not the same cheap ebay junk, they make sure they sell quality parts. They don't have a good rep for selling ebay chinese junk parts, they have a good rep because they sell quality parts, reasonable price, and some of the best customer service that I've ever seen. And he's right, rod ends will wear, thats just what happens to moving parts, metal on metal will eventually wear, nothing you can do about it, keep up on maintence, check your parts periodically, maybe a shot of oil here and there, you'll be fine. The best part about SPL is their upgrade plan, when they revise their products, they make available, cheap upgrades for you if you're running one of the older models. Now find another place that will do that for you............................................... ............That's what I thought!

Summary: SPL is the SHIT!, not the kind in the septic tank, the good kind! Great products, Great customer service, Great prices. That is why I'll continue to use them for all of my multilink needs. Keep up the good work SPL!!! :bigok: :kiss: :rawk:

[pwhitersxs]

Just the fact that kuah would come on here and answer questions in a very professional way should say something. Spl does have good products and does stand behind their product. That's good enough for me.

Another brand that you haven't looked at is bings. Go to bings.ca and look at his suspension pieces. He uses quality rod ends and has good products. I run them and love them.

[KA24DESOneThree]

As Kuah has said and as others have said in the past few posts, the distribution of other companies' parts is something that they're either scaling back on or eliminating. I have their old product list from 2004/2005 printed out and you can tell the upgrades and new products. The tension rods, the tie rod ends, the RUCAs, the traction rods, and the toe rods are all either upgraded with better rod ends or an entirely new design. Honestly, I trust every single one of SPL's parts save the tie rod ends, which I trust more than every other tie rod end on the market except Peak, although I'd really, really like to get a pair of Peaks to try out.

I've had conversations with Alex as well and I believe that he's honest and wants to bring the best parts to the table. I'd trust any of his parts.

However, if you want the best, you can either go with Peak, or you can go with SPL or BV parts upgraded to Aurora rod ends. That's just about all that's holding them back from being the best, and it's simply because Aurora bearings really are that expensive and would add a lot to their prices. However, my Auroras have lasted longer than any other spherical bearings I've run.

[lonelydrifter]

I am so glad I started this post, I have learned so much from this dialog.

Thanks for everyone who has contributed great information and definatley a big thanks to Kuah for speaking directly for SPL, now if we col only get some of the other manufactorers to chime in.

[racepar1]

Kuah, I apoiogize for publically attacking your integrity. I am just EXTREMELY dissapointed to hear that. I have reccomended SPL's products to pretty much anyone that would listen for years now, under the impression that it was all made in-house. Maybe I am more pissed off at myself for not doing the research. Don't think that Alex was badmouthing your products in our conversation because he wasn't. Our conversation was strictly sbout HIS products and bearing quality. SPL does definitely make some quality products, but I think for the price that you are charging you guys should have the $90-$100 each top of the line aircraft quality bearings.

[punxva]

Kuah is the man, their parts are second to none, i am going to be going through and getting the rest of my arms, but so far ive got tension rods and subframe spacers and they are awesome

[[email protected]]

Kuah, I apoiogize for publically attacking your integrity. I am just EXTREMELY dissapointed to hear that. I have reccomended SPL's products to pretty much anyone that would listen for years now, under the impression that it was all made in-house. Maybe I am more pissed off at myself for not doing the research. Don't think that Alex was badmouthing your products in our conversation because he wasn't. Our conversation was strictly sbout HIS products and bearing quality. SPL does definitely make some quality products, but I think for the price that you are charging you guys should have the $90-$100 each top of the line aircraft quality bearings.

I would like to apologize to Alex/BV for any references I made to him in my post, I have always made our best effort not to bad-mouth any other vendors/manufacturers. I had obviously misunderstood your original post...

As for pricing, the parts we purchase from Japan obviously the prices are not totally within our control. As for products we manufacture here, we use QA1 Endura rod ends which are $30+ per bearing, which is already a big part of the cost for a pair of arms that retail for $200. 4130 chomoly tubing, hand tig welds, e-nickel plated hardware, chrome plating are all not cheap, especially when they are done here in the USA.

We could make arms equipped with $100+/ea NMB rod ends (which are generally considered the best), but there won't be a market for arms that cost $400/pair. The QA1 Endura ends are very high quality, very high load ratings, low noise, good longevity, self-cleaning/wiping and are very easy to source (Jegs and Summit carries them). I don't feel that they are any less suitable than Aurora 3-piece ends.

The other QA1 rod ends mentioned are their 2-piece teflon lined ends, they do not last as long as the Endura series rod ends, but we have to use them in certain applications for the greater misalignment capability.

[McRussellPants]

or you can go with SPL or BV parts upgraded to Aurora rod ends. That's just about all that's holding them back from being the best, an

ugh, Or you can leave the QA1s they come with in, nearly every link SPL sends out now has a QA1 in it.

You guys have no fucking clue what a good heim joint is, If someone made a 6 peice heim joint you'd all eat your shit over it even if it only had 2 degrees of misaligment and a 1klb load rating.

whats the difference of being made in house or not? I've had the old style SPL links for two years now and they heims are still tight, and the chrome is still icey fresh. I have a BV cage, it was not made by Battle Version, it was designed by battle version but none the less Pfeiffer didn't stand there for 4 hrs with a tubing bender making it, That doesn't make it any less the best weld in cage kit I've ever seen.

ugh, zilvia, ugh.

[veilside180sx]

I agree here. Aurora, FK, QA1, NMB, etc all make very nice bearings. The important thing is to find the one that works best for the application with appropriate load ratings, cost effective for the part, and necessary misalignment capability.

ugh, Or you can leave the QA1s they come with in, nearly every link SPL sends out now has a QA1 in it.

You guys have no fucking clue what a good heim joint is, If someone made a 6 peice heim joint you'd all eat your shit over it even if it only had 2 degrees of misaligment and a 1klb load rating.

whats the difference of being made in house or not? I've had the old style SPL links for two years now and they heims are still tight, and the chrome is still icey fresh. I have a BV cage, it was not made by Battle Version, it was designed by battle version but none the less Pfeiffer didn't stand there for 4 hrs with a tubing bender making it, That doesn't make it any less the best weld in cage kit I've ever seen.

ugh, zilvia, ugh.

[racepar1]

The manufacturer of the heim joints does not really matter it is the model of the joints that matters. Every company out there has a good model of heim joints available. The difference between being made in-house and being re-sold is that if you make all your stuff in-house you have 100% control over the materials used and the processes used. If you re-sell somebody else's shit you have very little control over what they are made with and how they are made. Trust me I know EXACTLY what a good heim joint is! And I also know EXACTLY what a good quality control process is. My dad's formula atlantic car had nothing but heim joints in the suspension and my dad was a contractor that helped companies get their ISO certifications. I read through most of the training material that he distributed.

ugh, Or you can leave the QA1s they come with in, nearly every link SPL sends out now has a QA1 in it.

You guys have no fucking clue what a good heim joint is, If someone made a 6 peice heim joint you'd all eat your shit over it even if it only had 2 degrees of misaligment and a 1klb load rating.

whats the difference of being made in house or not? I've had the old style SPL links for two years now and they heims are still tight, and the chrome is still icey fresh. I have a BV cage, it was not made by Battle Version, it was designed by battle version but none the less Pfeiffer didn't stand there for 4 hrs with a tubing bender making it, That doesn't make it any less the best weld in cage kit I've ever seen.

ugh, zilvia, ugh.

[KA24DESOneThree]

It doesn't matter how many pieces the heim joint is. It matters how precise it is when I fit it and how precise it is during use. A heim joint does me no good if it allows play in the system.

The heims in my SPL-distributed RUCAs are toast, the heims in my tie rod ends are toast. To be fair, so are my Kazama tie rod ends but those heims are total junk anyway and I took 'em off the car about three years ago. The early RUCAs use the cheap generic rod ends but the tie rod ends are QA1s, and also they're loose as hell.

McRussellPants, you're no more an expert on heim joints than I, yet you profess your superiority like Carroll Smith himself blessed you. You have an affinity for SPL's parts which is well known, and as stated above I have their parts and trust them as well. Let me worry about whether or not I'm qualified to determine a heim joint's appropriateness for an application, as you have no idea what I have or have not worked with in the past.

However, I was talking about THE BEST. Will QA1s do the job? You bet. Are they the best? No, they certainly are not.

[[email protected]]

The heims in my SPL-distributed RUCAs are toast, the heims in my tie rod ends are toast. To be fair, so are my Kazama tie rod ends but those heims are total junk anyway and I took 'em off the car about three years ago. The early RUCAs use the cheap generic rod ends but the tie rod ends are QA1s, and also they're loose as hell.

As mentioned, the QA1 ends used for the tie rod ends are their 2-piece rod ends, which do not last as well as the Endura series ends. However we use the 2-piece ends because we need the misalignment capability, which is 65deg vs. ~20deg for a 3-piece end. I don't think it would be fair to simply say Aurora is much better than QA1 when you are comparing Aurora 3-piece ends vs. QA1 2-piece ends.

[McRussellPants]

McRussellPants, you're no more an expert on heim joints than I, yet you profess your superiority like Carroll Smith himself blessed you. You have an affinity for SPL's parts which is well known, and as stated above I have their parts and trust them as well. Let me worry about whether or not I'm qualified to determine a heim joint's appropriateness for an application, as you have no idea what I have or have not worked with in the past.

However, I was talking about THE BEST. Will QA1s do the job? You bet. Are they the best? No, they certainly are not.

shit dawg, Carroll Smith ain't got nothing on this, read those books in like a day, in middle school.

At the end of the day you're complaining about a wear and tear part wearing and tearing.

"OMG MY ROD ENDS ARE LOOSE, I'VE ONLY HAD THEM FOR 5 YEARS, THE ONES ON MY FORMULA ATLANTIC CAR THAT GET REPLACED EVERY 6 RACES ARE STILL TIGHT, MINE SHOULD BE TOO"

after the crap I've done to the high misalignment QA1s on my car if they went out every 6 months I wouldn't have a problem with it.

also, hilarious to me is that your complaining about a 1/30th of an inch movement at the most, on a chassis that probably flexes 100 times that in any corner. unrelated and will no doubt bring on some sanctimonious "whats the point of performance novel" but still funny.

[racepar1]

shit dawg, Carroll Smith ain't got nothing on this, read those books in like a day, in middle school.

At the end of the day you're complaining about a wear and tear part wearing and tearing.

"OMG MY ROD ENDS ARE LOOSE, I'VE ONLY HAD THEM FOR 5 YEARS, THE ONES ON MY FORMULA ATLANTIC CAR THAT GET REPLACED EVERY 6 RACES ARE STILL TIGHT, MINE SHOULD BE TOO"

after the crap I've done to the high misalignment QA1s on my car if they went out every 6 months I wouldn't have a problem with it.

also, hilarious to me is that your complaining about a 1/30th of an inch movement at the most, on a chassis that probably flexes 100 times that in any corner. unrelated and will no doubt bring on some sanctimonious "whats the point of performance novel" but still funny.

Are you retarded? You are attacking KA24DESOneThree with something I posted! For your information our atlantic car was a SCCA not a pro car. Most of the rod ends were never replaced in any of the 3 different cars that we ran over the years because they never wore out. Why? Because they were the top of the line $100 each rod ends. 1/30th of an inch if you multiply it by all the bearings in the rear suspension is a ton of play! If your toe changes by 1/30th of an inch on either side under cornering load that is 1/15 of a toe difference. I only run 1/16 total toe in in the rear with that toe change I would end up with toe out, which I do not want. You clearly do not understand what it takes to make a car perform at the peak of it's potential. Maybe for the average joe it doesn't matter, but for those of us (like me and KA24DESOneThree) who choose to push our cars to the max at the track and constantly develop our set-ups ANY play AT ALL is unacceptable as it will negatively affect the car's performance! In conclusion SHUT THE FUCK UP!

[McRussellPants]

PUSH YOUR CARS TO THE MAX.


what the fuck is this the 80s?


anyway, that was a cute little speil about PUSH IT TO THE LIMIT, DANCING ON THE RAZORS EDGE. and only marginally less sanctimonious than I had hoped.

touche zilvia.

[KA24DESOneThree]

MRP, that 1/30th an inch is the difference between a tight, solid heim joint, and one that flops all over the place like a dying fish. The fact that it's so miniscule a measurement does not have any bearing on its importance.

Your emphasis that the chassis flexes is a red herring with zero relevance to the topic at hand.

Yes, I am complaining about a wear-and-tear part wearing. However, since I have no less than 24 spherical bearings in my suspension, I need them to last as long as possible because replacing them all every six months would get very expensive very fast.

Is this another one of your arguments where you argue against the best because "we just drive 240s?"

[Moon Ill]

I've only read page one, and the last post of page two ^. It's been informative and enlightning, so I will be subscribing to it so I can read it later.

This is what's produce when a bunch of groupthinking/bandgwagon-flaming ass-hats don't run into post and start screaming "SEARCH!!!!!!!"

ie, people are informed and learn something.

[yudalicious]

Are you retarded? You are attacking KA24DESOneThree with something I posted! ...In conclusion SHUT THE FUCK UP!

LOL! That was as much as a bitch slap as I've seen online. A well deserved one at that. Good job.

[reccakun08]

Off topic but Kuah is there any way i can get just the front diff bushings for my 300zx vlsd on my s13?

[McRussellPants]

Your emphasis that the chassis flexes is a red herring with zero relevance to the topic at hand.

I said it was irrelevant.

I said it would no doubt bring on pretentious "imma tuner" speeches.

But its cool that you were able to use "red herring" in a sentence and Judging by my rep this got cross linked to Nico, so hi cuties!

[racepar1]

No he won't, I already tried. I happened to get lucky and find a pair that someone couldn't install in their diff for some reason for $40.

Off topic but Kuah is there any way i can get just the front diff bushings for my 300zx vlsd on my s13?

[reccakun08]

BAhhh lucky you.

No he won't, I already tried. I happened to get lucky and find a pair that someone couldn't install in their diff for some reason for $40.

[specialk2003]

I just saw this thread and thought I might put in my $.02. I don't have much experience with many of these companies, but I do currently have Peak Performance RUCA's and love them. Had them for just over a year now, and are way better quality than what I started with (Project Silvia arms, rod ends loosened after about 6months, and hardware was rusting). I have however, heard good things about SPL, haven't run any of their products though.

[bing]

good thread... why argue with Kuah? that's silly talk.

i'd like to know how many people out there are still buying the China-Link..

i admit i have sold the China-Link tie rods and have had to warranty a few of the outers on account of being from china. But i keep seeing more and more people going onto ebay and being all: "OMG $40 RUCA WOW!!!"

are the tenured S-chassis folk wising up yet?

is it just the noobs that buy China-Link? and do they learn?

anyone breaking the megan gear yet?

[SicBastard]

Hi,I don't know my ass from china-link. So I'm gunna newb out and ask...How long should these QA1s last in a DD?Will aero quality $100 rod ends really last any longer, or are you just paying for a few more degrees of misalignment and tensile strength that we don't even need?

[racepar1]

The $100 a piece aircraft quality shit will last up to twice as long as your average rod ends, but almost nobody uses them. Tein uses the good shit, but they don't sell almost ANY suspension arms. I have not yet researched the cusco and kazama arms, but my experience with the kazama tie rod ends tell me that they don't use the good ones. Battle version is what I would reccomend. I'm sure they don't use the most expensive bearings, but I KNOW that they use really good ones. SPL's V2 arms with the endura tech rod ends should be very good as well.

[McRussellPants]

uhhh Tein uses the exact same rod end as the old style SPL links. Now the SPL links come with super QA1 so people can condescend about how their heims are the best.

Kazama has the same amount of problems with the link itself as it does the heim.

I've seen cars go 4 years on the old style SPL heims with no play. mine have been on there for two and they're perfect. It would take me half an hour to go to SPL and pay 40$ for new OMG RACECARSSZZDS heims, but I don't, because it doesn't matter off the internet.

My QA1s on my tie rods and tension rods are still as tight as when they first broke in.

Im not saying buy crap industrial ends, but at the end of the day all your buying when you're buying a 100$ heim on these cars is the ability to talk about how you're so fucking ill because you found the most expensive heims on Baker and how its gonna make your rusty ass S13 into ultimate racecar.

SPL/Battle Version/Peak Performance know more about suspension links than you do. They know more about heims than you do. but also, they sell to S-chassis owners so they know how cheap you are.

[Mikey213]

anyone breaking the megan gear yet?
I as a I newb have megan tie rod ends, FUCK THEM because they cracked in 4 months. So im looking foward to getting the teins. As for the rest of my c-tune arms(not sure if they're china-links) they're holding up just fine! still nice n shiney no rust for about a year of daily//spirited grip driving

[racepar1]

uhhh Tein uses the exact same rod end as the old style SPL links. Now the SPL links come with super QA1 so people can condescend about how their heims are the best.


You are an IDIOT! Stop trying to argue with me! TEIN uses NWB 3-piece rod ends and bearings and NWB happens to make the bearings that most professional racing teams use. The SPL V2 arms with the endura tech 3-piece bearings are fine, the old-style 2-piece bearings suck (comparatively speaking)!

Kazama has the same amount of problems with the link itself as it does the heim.

I actually tend to agree with you on this^^^

I've seen cars go 4 years on the old style SPL heims with no play. mine have been on there for two and they're perfect. It would take me half an hour to go to SPL and pay 40$ for new OMG RACECARSSZZDS heims, but I don't, because it doesn't matter off the internet.

No heim joint will last 4 years with no play, just because you are too inept to notice it does not make it fact.

My QA1s on my tie rods and tension rods are still as tight as when they first broke in.

And they were loose after they first broke in as well!

Im not saying buy crap industrial ends, but at the end of the day all your buying when you're buying a 100$ heim on these cars is the ability to talk about how you're so fucking ill because you found the most expensive heims on Baker and how its gonna make your rusty ass S13 into ultimate racecar.

Once AGAIN, you are an IDIOT! The "good shit" will last longer 100% of the time. If it costs you an extra $60 a bearing to have them last 3 years instead of 1.5 years, then that is a good investment. What do you have against people who want ultimate track performance from thier 240's? There is absolutely NO reason why you cannot bulid a 240 into pretty much the ultimate track car, especially the ultimate budget track car. I'm sick of this "oh it's a $2000 car, why spend the money for top quality parts" attitude. You get what you pay for 100% of the time. If you don't care about what you're running on your car then fine, but some of us do!

SPL/Battle Version/Peak Performance know more about suspension links than you do. They know more about heims than you do. but also, they sell to S-chassis owners so they know how cheap you are.

Why do you bring up battle version and peak performance? I KNOW EXACTLY what bearings Alex is putting in the battle version shit, and I have never said anything about peak performance. They may know more about heim joints then I do, but YOU do not! Kuah has admitted on THIS thread that some of his older rod ends were not that good and that there ARE better bearings out there. I am not your typical "cheap s-chasis owner". I am more than willing to spend real money on real parts. If I decide to be cheap, then I make it myself or modify something cheap to suit my needs.

[bigOdom1]

edit slow young ninja

[McRussellPants]

TEIN uses NWB 3-piece rod ends and bearings and NWB happens to make the bearings that most professional racing teams use. The SPL V2 arms with the endura tech 3-piece bearings are fine, the old-style 2-piece bearings suck (comparatively speaking)!

Maybe Tein uses NMB, all the pics I've seen of them looks like the same rubber covered two peice that Kazama uses.

yeah, you don't need to tell me what SPL uses, I have all their links on my car and more of them have passed through my hands than 90% of this forum has dollars in their bank account.


No heim joint will last 4 years with no play, just because you are too inept to notice it does not make it fact..

you mean.

I sat there, yanking the link back and forth and it didn't have any preceptible movement? yeah those are totally bad. I should bitch about .000300 of movement when I've still got blown POS bushings in my hub.

And they were loose after they first broke in as well!.

not so much.

Once AGAIN, you are an IDIOT! The "good shit" will last longer 100% of the time. If it costs you an extra $60 a bearing to have them last 3 years instead of 1.5 years, then that is a good investment. What do you have against people who want ultimate track performance from thier 240's? There is absolutely NO reason why you cannot bulid a 240 into pretty much the ultimate track car, especially the ultimate budget track car. I'm sick of this "oh it's a $2000 car, why spend the money for top quality parts" attitude. You get what you pay for 100% of the time. If you don't care about what you're running on your car then fine, but some of us do!.

My beef with this thread is.

Yeah, there are 60$ rod ends.

Yeah, there are 10$ rod ends.

people bitch and moan about not getting 60$ rod ends and how they would pay for them and eat their shit over them. But clearly if there was a market for it it would be out there. people just want to bitch to the maker of parts so they seem all fucking tuner on the internet instead of calling them up and saying
"hey, how much do I need to pay you to get a link with 100$ per rod end in it" the answer will probably be
"well, thats fucking retarded because you have rusty jones S13 that you'll stuff before the tie rods wear out but I'll get you some for 400$"
"oh, I don't have that kinda money, I'll buy megan."

so yeah, and also, honestly the manufacturers don't need to sell that link, because 99.9% of their market barely drives their car hard enough to need the link in the first place. so shit talking a company for not pricing themselves out of the market with some rod end only some jerk off who wants to be king of the internet will buy is what Im getting grumpy about.

[racepar1]

Maybe Tein uses NMB, all the pics I've seen of them looks like the same rubber covered two peice that Kazama uses.

You should really do some research before you post. A lot of bearings "look" the same, but they are not the same.

yeah, you don't need to tell me what SPL uses, I have all their links on my car and more of them have passed through my hands than 90% of this forum has dollars in their bank account.



you mean.

I sat there, yanking the link back and forth and it didn't have any preceptible movement? yeah those are totally bad. I should bitch about .000300 of movement when I've still got blown POS bushings in my hub.

Well why do you still have blown out stock bushings in your uprights? I don't! That is just lazyness and cheapness. You can get energy ones for pretty cheap and if all you need to install is the ones on the uprights it should only take a few hours.



not so much.



My beef with this thread is.

Yeah, there are 60$ rod ends.

Yeah, there are 10$ rod ends.

people bitch and moan about not getting 60$ rod ends and how they would pay for them and eat their shit over them. But clearly if there was a market for it it would be out there. people just want to bitch to the maker of parts so they seem all fucking tuner on the internet instead of calling them up and saying
"hey, how much do I need to pay you to get a link with 100$ per rod end in it" the answer will probably be
"well, thats fucking retarded because you have rusty jones S13 that you'll stuff before the tie rods wear out but I'll get you some for 400$"
"oh, I don't have that kinda money, I'll buy megan."

so yeah, and also, honestly the manufacturers don't need to sell that link, because 99.9% of their market barely drives their car hard enough to need the link in the first place. so shit talking a company for not pricing themselves out of the market with some rod end only some jerk off who wants to be king of the internet will buy is what Im getting grumpy about.

I TOTALLY understand why companies don't use the REALLY expensive rod ends in their arms. $500+ for a couple arms is just too much money. However I got my FK 3-piece rod ends for $36 each, for that LITTLE money there is no excuse for any manufacturer to use 2-piece ends. I understand on the tie rod ends because you NEED a higher mis-aslignment capability, but on the rest of the arms there is absolutely no reason for that. 99.9% of people wouldn't even know the difference, that is true. But there are a lot of people out there who WOULD know thw difference (like me and KA24DESoneThree). For people like us an "ok" rod end is just not acceptable, we don't need the top of the line $100 each shit, but we DO need something very good. SPL's V2 arms with the endura-tech 3-piece ends are fine, but there are still SPL arms being sold without the updated ends, and that is not "fine". SPL sells a lot of good shit, but your un-willingness to admit that SOME of their products have problems is RIDICULOUS. There is not one company in the world that is 100% perfect.

[McRussellPants]

You should really do some research before you post. A lot of bearings "look" the same, but they are not the same..

Thanks professor.



Well why do you still have blown out stock bushings in your uprights? I don't! That is just lazyness and cheapness. You can get energy ones for pretty cheap and if all you need to install is the ones on the uprights it should only take a few hours...

Fantastic! POST A MODS LIST FOR ULTIMATE RACECAR S13 PLZ. whoops real racecar would have spericals on the upright.

SPL's V2 arms with the endura-tech 3-piece ends are fine, but there are still SPL arms being sold without the updated ends, and that is not "fine". SPL sells a lot of good shit, but your un-willingness to admit that SOME of their products have problems is RIDICULOUS. There is not one company in the world that is 100% perfect.

every SPL link that can use a 3 peice end has them. If you want to stuff a 3 peice on your tie rod ends go ahead. It should feel OPTIMAL S13 RACECAR through the 10 degrees of steering angle you get before it binds and breaks the shank.

there is a well thought out reason behind both the tension rods and tie rods still use the two peice ends (the only two S-chassis links still using two peice)

While Im thinking about it, the other big problem I have with this, is its just people thinking spending 30$ on a part instead of 25$ is gonna turn them into some big dick PRO CHAMPIONSHIP DRIVERS EDUCATION DAY CAR. When really its just some generic part that after two years of wear will be marginally better thats still really really fucking cheap that everone singles out to being the saving grace to building a badass car.

"oh fuck what do real racecars have? Motons, Gusseted FIA Cages, Dry Sump? fuck that I can't afford that. They have 30$ Heims and dimple dies though, thats like 200$ for me to be able to pretend to have ALL OUT TRACK CAR on the internet, lets do it."

ugh, gay.

[racepar1]

Thanks professor.

I may not be a professor, but at least I know what the companies that I am referring to use.

Fantastic! POST A MODS LIST FOR ULTIMATE RACECAR S13 PLZ. whoops real racecar would have spericals on the upright.

I have a VB pic gallery if you really want a mod list. Anyways did I ever say that I have the ultimate track 240? NO I DIDN'T! I am still fairly early in my upgrades, shit I don't even have a gage...YET.

every SPL link that can use a 3 peice end has them. If you want to stuff a 3 peice on your tie rod ends go ahead. It should feel OPTIMAL S13 RACECAR through the 10 degrees of steering angle you get before it binds and breaks the shank.

there is a well thought out reason behind both the tension rods and tie rods still use the two peice ends (the only two S-chassis links still using two peice)

My TEIN tension rods have 3-piece ends in them and I have had no problems with them, and neither has anyone else that I have EVER heard of. I totally understand why SPL uses the 2-piece ends in their tie rods, I ALREADY STATED THAT!

While Im thinking about it, the other big problem I have with this, is its just people thinking spending 30$ on a part instead of 25$ is gonna turn them into some big dick PRO CHAMPIONSHIP DRIVERS EDUCATION DAY CAR. When really its just some generic part that after two years of wear will be marginally better thats still really really fucking cheap that everone singles out to being the saving grace to building a badass car.

"oh fuck what do real racecars have? Motons, Gusseted FIA Cages, Dry Sump? fuck that I can't afford that. They have 30$ Heims and dimple dies though, thats like 200$ for me to be able to pretend to have ALL OUT TRACK CAR on the internet, lets do it."

ugh, gay.

I strive to prepare my personal car to similar specs as a pro car. Why? Because the anal-retentive attention to detail displayed on pro cars is EXACTLY what makes them so fast. Unfortuanetly I simply don't have the budget to do it all at once, so it will take a few years. When I do build my cage it WILL be a gusseted pro spec cage. It WILL have some actual engineering behind it. I am planning to build custom strut housings for my TEIN hardware to use KONI 8611 double adjustable dampers, which may not quite be "pro spec", but they are very close. I am not an "E-thug pretend racer"! I grew up at the racetrack, I have SEEN, with my own eyes, what works, what doesn't, and WHY it does or doesn't work.

[KA24DESOneThree]

MRP, get the fuck out of this thread. Seriously. You're an SPL fanboy who thinks that "good enough" is all you need.

I just finished putting my new SPL tie rod ends on my car and the QA1 housing is already rusted and pitted. It was pitted from the factory, and the rust is surface rust that has developed just over the past couple months sitting in my car shelter. Couple that with jerky ball movement and I've resigned myself to ponying up whatever it costs for something I trust. I got lucky with something failing once, I don't want it to happen again.

You don't understand, and there are scores of people who line up behind you and your posts, and you think that we don't understand. Fact of the matter is that neither one of us is really going to convince the other. I'm just trying to take some of the guys behind you and open their eyes.

I've walked through paddocks with multi-million-dollar race cars being worked on and I never saw a rod end I didn't like. Those guys understand that a failure can mean a loss of control and a loss of control can mean a written off Tipo 61 Birdcage or Porsche 904. Just because we drive cheaper cars doesn't mean that a crash can be catastrophic to our bank accounts and to our health. Why risk it? Hell, the Tipo 61 is lighter than AND is capable of less grip than most 240s with sticky tires so we should be MORE concerned.

Again, do what you want but we've all looked at the failures. That's a risk I'm not willing to take, and if I also increase longevity and precision at the same time, I'm happy to upgrade.

[McRussellPants]

I just finished putting my new SPL tie rod ends on my car and the QA1 housing is already rusted and pitted. It was pitted from the factory, and the rust is surface rust that has developed just over the past couple months sitting in my car shelter. Couple that with jerky ball movement and I've resigned myself to ponying up whatever it costs for something I trust. I got lucky with something failing once, I don't want it to happen again.


Thats the thing. you're bitching and moaning about it without realizing thats the price you have to pay to run thouse.

Those outters, are basically your only option, they're the only one with a halfway decent rod end. they're the beefiest shank on the market, they're the beefiest buckle on the market, and its the only way you can reliably run bumpsteer adjustment without binding out the steering.

what are you gonna do?

put a 3 peice in there? you think Kuah didn't try that. shits gonna snap the shank in a day.

If you don't like the SPL's take them off and put OEM ball joints back on and suffer the weird steering feel. because you won't find a better option without limiting your suspension travel or angle so you don't bust the shank or bend the tie rod.

you guys can rabble about how you're gonna rule the world with 3 peice ends and try to impress everyone by rattling off some car names you got to walk by in a paddock.

and by the way. OH FUCK 8611s? ARE YOU SURE YOU'RE READY FOR AN ENTRY LEVEL DAMPER WEDGED INTO A TEIN CASING???? seriously, if you want to play that game at least name drop parts that could be on some level considered impressive. The "I spare no expense" delusions of grandure you guys have is totally pathetic when you're rolling around the track in mismatched halfcaged S13.

[Phlip]

Look, this was an informative thread that went to shit because someone came in to talk shit about a non-issue rather than offer anything of substance to the thread.
I am asking that everyone arguing knock it the fuck off.

[lonelydrifter]

Alright now that we know which rod ends are the best.

What does everyone think would be wise for a daily driver?

I will one day turn my car into a track car but right now I am thinking the solid rod ends will make my ride on the street pretty shitty.

Any thoughts on this?

[racepar1]

Alright now that we know which rod ends are the best.

What does everyone think would be wise for a daily driver?

I will one day turn my car into a track car but right now I am thinking the solid rod ends will make my ride on the street pretty shitty.

Any thoughts on this?

Actually the bearings reduce friction in the suspension, which means that it moves more smoothly. The "ride" over bumps shouldn't change much, but you will feel more road vibration. As far as what arms to buy it all depends on your budget. You can't go wrong with battle version, peak performance, or even most of SPL's parts. All of these arms are pretty high in the price range, but they are all pretty good quality shit. I would PERSONALLY trust battle version a bit more than the other companies mentioned.

[KA24DESOneThree]

I don't really have a choice but run aftermarket tie rod ends... if I don't space my ends, the car literally does not follow the steering. I'm not going to put a 3-piece in there if there aren't 3-pieces with the requisite features. Wouldn't that be exactly the opposite of my point here?

Spherical bearings are actually not that bad on the street. Dampers/coilovers and, to a lesser extent, swaybars have more of an effect than spherical bearings everywhere. If you want it to be comfortably streetable, just don't replace your steering rack bushings with metal ones and the steering column bushing with a metal one. The steering gets pretty buzzy pretty quick.

[McRussellPants]

Battle Version, Peak Performance or SPL.

there are others but they won't be worth the time/money to get when those manufacturers do it right in the USA.

Stiff rubber bushings, particularly in the tension rods have been known to crack the metal because they don't flex well.

you won't feel them on the street.

cute PM racepar, I lol'd.

[SicBastard]

The $100 a piece aircraft quality shit will last up to twice as long as your average rod ends...

Kuah,

Do you agree with this? I'd rather pay the extra $100 now, than have to get another alignment and pay for new rod ends in a year, if I can put it off for two!

[racepar1]

SPL's new endura tech ends should be fine as they are pretty good quality 3-piece ends. Just beware of ANY suspension arm with a 2-piece end as they wear out faster and are a bit loose in the first place from the ones that I have seen. The really good rod ends that I have seen are so tight when they are new that you cannot move them by hand. Once they wear in they move freely with a bit of resistance and no play. Beware of any end that moves freely when it is brand new. You should PM Kuah though as this thread is pretty much dead.

[KA24DESOneThree]

The more I think about this thread, the more I feel like I have to elaborate on what I've said in it.

I've said SPL does not have the best quality, which is true. However, SPL has the best customer service of any company I've ever dealt with, bar none. SPL also has quality higher than its purchase price; that is, more bang for the buck than the knockoffs. There is no one else producing products of the same quality for the price. Peak produces products that use better rod ends, but at a higher price and without innovations like kinked tubing to decrease interference on cars with subframe spacers and CERTAINLY without the customer service.

Kuah is also continually updating his products and trying to make them better while not pricing himself out of the market. He has no choice to do this, and if he has to use a less expensive rod end (but still carefully chosen) to keep from losing money on every suspension arm, then I'm all for that just to keep SPL making money and continuing its service to the community. If SPL went out of business, the S-chassis community would lose a strong ally in the fight for decently priced, high quality suspension pieces.

What I'm really asking everyone to do is just ask for the best, and be willing to pay the price. Innovation costs money. I'm positive that if people were willing to pay, Kuah and the rest of the guys at SPL would come out with some parts that would make our jaws drop. The same would go for Peak, as they'd probably be willing to get better, and I'm sure Alex at BV would continue development if he didn't have to worry about the community getting more and more diluted.

[bing]

moral: dont buy china-link. it makes you gay.

[az_240]

SPL is the shit... I bought all my stuff from them. RUCA, Toe links, tie rods, coilovers, tension rods, collars and some other stuff...

all top notch. No probs with anything yet and a friend even crashed my shit into a curb. Had to replace the LCA, z32 tie rod and rim and that was it.

Shipping and customer service is amazing!

[a_ahmed]

This was an awesome thread, too bad I did not see it earlier. But McRusselPants you should stop the shit talking, cmon man, thats not contributing. Wth man? Relax... sheesh.

Much respect to all of you guys: racepar1, veilside180sx, ka24deonethree, and of course especially kuah as a vendor.

It was very good. I'm def going with SPL parts still in the future though. There's a number of reasons for that.

I'll soon have all their arms except the LCAs... and ill make my own front endlinks... none the less, I really have alot of respect for kuah. Why? Because of his customer service, absolutely. This goes long ways, and I deal with clients/customers/users in the IT field on a daily basis... really its what wins you money, people, friends, reputation, respect, quality, whatever in the long run.

There was ONE company (that was mentioned) and I asked them relatively losely, friendly, no dick talking about a product of theirs and well to be honest... their customer service sucked ass... sorry to say.. f u, I don't think I'll be buying from them, i dont give a fuck what they have... how 'beefy' their parts are, their responses were dick ass.

Kuah's upgrade program is as mentioned one of a kind. This is truly awesome, it makes you.. FORCES YOU willingly a dedicated customer... smart...

Cmon... if future new arms revisions and upgrades come, or you need replacments.. you can get them for much cheaper basically half price.

Also at the end of the day you can get your own rod ends that are higher qual too.. whatever. Although why not, they can in the next revisions always get better and better rod ends/whatever.

And well that's all I gotta say...

PS - Kuah, those new RUCAs better be ready lol, I know you said 2-3 weeks like 2 weeks ago :P I can't wait to get all my parts.. and ill take pix of that traction arm thing I mentioned.

Speaking of that... I didn't install them yet. If you ever have any issue you can always get their parts sent to them and get back new parts.. eg; i spotted a dot of rust lol... it kind of worried me if it would spread, he said no problem, take a pic, send to us, we'll send a replacement... booya... simple as that.

If the rod ends/arms last like 2+ years of hardcore track/road/dd abuse, I'm cool with that, by that time theyll have upgrade arms/revisions anyways that will cost me half the price of if i were buying it for the first time :P

+1 rep to you guys except mcrusselpants cause he's mean and naughty.

moral: dont buy china-link. it makes you gay.

Think of it them as chinese ladyboys. They may look hot, nice ass, nice boobs, nice tight legs, hourglass,skinny, whatever, sexy makeup, hair, but at the end of the day they got a shlong, it MAY seem like a tough call, but you get what you pay for. Analogically/similarily Ebay china arms may look shiny, chromy, beatiful, just like every other arm on the outside, but you get what you pay for.

Learn kids :P Chinese/thai ladyboys and chinese/thai rods/arms will not make you cool, they'll either make your car death-wishful or give you HIV or Aids.

[dongoesby]

don't even start the discriminate thing there, which makes you another McRusselPants. I hate your analogy, and I will kick you in the nuts if compare it with HIV or Aids to Asians. And yes, you are speaking to a Chinese here.

Kuah, great products from SPL, I'm looking forward to purchase them from you. Hope to get your PM reply soon!