Ghost Beat
02-08-2008, 12:37 PM
NOT PARTING OUT!
http://img172.imagevenue.com/loc913/th_98418_1_122_913lo.JPG (http://img172.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=98418_1_122_913lo.JPG) http://img182.imagevenue.com/loc356/th_98452_2_122_356lo.JPG (http://img182.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=98452_2_122_356lo.JPG) http://img174.imagevenue.com/loc220/th_98455_3_122_220lo.JPG (http://img174.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=98455_3_122_220lo.JPG) http://img173.imagevenue.com/loc976/th_98456_4_122_976lo.JPG (http://img173.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=98456_4_122_976lo.JPG)
http://img141.imagevenue.com/loc469/th_98458_5_122_469lo.JPG (http://img141.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=98458_5_122_469lo.JPG) http://img198.imagevenue.com/loc34/th_98460_6_122_34lo.JPG (http://img198.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=98460_6_122_34lo.JPG)
Located in Milton NY 12547 (About a 2 hour drive up from NYC)
The model year is 1996 and the car is essentially complete and running. The swap is about 90% done and only needs some trouble shooting. The electrical work is all done. The car did start and run. Everything is mounted only final timing after letting the car warm up wasn't done due to an oil leak from a loose bolt in the upper oil pan which was dealt with at Built Performance who also did the rest of the swap, but due to circumstances I had to get the car out of their shop before we got to run it again for final work, after they had fixed the loose pan bolt and the car has been sitting since on the trailer with which we towed it to my friends house.
Currently when the key is turned it goes to a half start and the internal electrics come on, but when the key is turned to start the starter simply clicks when the key is turned. It could be some faulty connections, or something else. I’m not competent in the area so I can’t assume
The clutch apparently makes an odd noise when pressed in for shifting according to the people at Built performance. I was told it could be something as simple as the replacing the throttle bearing, or could be that the blots used to attach the fly wheel aren't the proper length and are grinding inside. In either case there shouldn't be any significant damage since the car has not been driven. The transmission's main seal needs to be replaced as well because when it was started up for the test run it was leaking. All of which can be handled at once.
Other than that the rest of the car is fine. The only real noticeable defect is dent in passenger side quarter panel, (Previous owner's wife backed into it apparently) which can be reached from inside the car upon removal of the interior panel. Seems the previous owner had tried to hammer it out from the inside and managed to chip the paint a bit on the outside. I have been quoted a about $300 to get it taken care of by one of the paint less dent removal guys, but it never really bothered me so I didn't get it pulled out.
I also had the wheel wells rolled and the paint on the back edges of the lips is chipped, (not very noticeable). A little sanding and touch up would be more than fine I didn't mind because it’s better than the dent that a lot of rolls cause. My wheels fit nicely in there I wanted to get a spacer in there, but never got around to it. They can fit a wider wheel in there as well. The front fenders need to be re rolled because their edges have been bent from people accidentally leaning on them. Re-rolling of the fenders should get them back to their original shape or if not they can be replaced.
I had also relocated the battery to behind the passenger seat and had to drill holes to mount it about 6 millimeter and have since removed it due to it sitting and the battery dying and filled the holes with silicone and shut them due the car sitting. I didn’t want things to get in there I was going to weld them shut, but ran out of time before winter.
The car comes with a set of Work Rezax wheels (black spoke polished lip) 17x8 +5 17x9 +10 with a pair of brand new Falken st115's to be mounted on the front tires (One of them had a flat which is why I had the one original wheel on there in the pics) and the one's in the rear probably only have a couple of hundred miles on them. Minor wear and rash on the 1 of the front wheels, they could use a good polish.
Paint is fine all around other than the mentioned blemishes. The Entire engine bay was painted with POR15. The car had rust under the battery, but I had it cut out and molded a fresh piece in its place. Having used POR15 on just the 1 part looked odd, so did the whole bay up into the beginning of the trans tunnel (overkill). So no rust worries in there.
The car also has black 20% tint all around keeps the car from getting baking hot parked under the sun.
Interior
Both passenger and driver air bags have been removed, but I have all the parts if need be. Also took the ac components out, but again have all the parts the duct work is there for heat and fan will work as well. Other than that nothing wrong with the interior at all no rips and tears inside the car other than the small holes behind the passenger seat sealed shut. As mentioned the battery was relocated to behind the passenger seat for weight purposes but can easily be transferred to the trunk with a longer power wire. The car also comes with an Alpine CD player with tilt control on the face plate.
Engine
All motor work was done by Built Performance. S13 blacktop sr20det. As typical, the motor had around 30k on it when it was pulled from its donor car. Where this one defers is that it comes with a brand new turbo T25 ball bearing turbo from swapped Nissan complete with new Taka steel braided lines. Also included is a Greddy metal head gasket with stock compression and ARP head studs which were added preparation for the new turbo and higher boost. While installing the head studs the motor head was machined at a machine shop as well. The AC motor was removed from the engine. My fuel line was damaged so I replaced it with a steel braided one from the fuel pump down to the fuel filter.
Synopsis
It was a very fun car to drive even with its original engine. It’s unfortunate I will never really get to experience it with the new engine. I have put in too much time and effort and an insane amount of money into the car over which is the reason for selling it. I no longer have the time, nor the means to work on the car, or pay for someone else to work on it for me. I’m taking a huge loss on it at the price I am selling it for. I had paid a little less than what I'm selling it at and it was stock at the time.
Parts/work with 0 miles
S13 Blacktop SR20det Engine
Greddy S13 V-SPL Intercooler
New turbo
Act 6 puck unsprung clutch with heavy duty pressure plate & resurfaced lightened flywheel (10 lb)
Greddy electric gauges (black face) 60mm boost 52mm oil pressure/egt/temp Greddy Turbo Timer + Harness
Koyo aluminum Radiator
Tomei Fuel Pump
Cusco engine mounts
Unorthodox lightened crank pulley
Taka steel braided turbo lines
3"Downpipe/test pipe
New Greddy Metal Head Gasket
Machined Head
ARP head studs
All new Belts heater/radiator Hoses
Heavy Throttle Intake filter (looks like blitz)
All new Exhaust manifold studs washers and nuts
New version SPL tierods with, steering rack boots
Rocker Arm Stoppers
Steel Braided Fuel Line
Previously added parts with less than a 1000 miles on them
Blitz nur spec cat back (3 inch from the motor back)
kazz 2 way differential ( oil was very often with kazz oil only)
JIC FLTA2 Full coilovers with 2 new replacement shocks (all shocks and struts are fine got these two for eventual replacement)
Cusco front strut tower bar
Tanabe rear upper control arms
Tanabe rear sway bar
Personal steering wheel with momo hub
Nismo Slave cylinder
Nismo Steel braided clutch line
Alpine CD player
I am the second owner of the car. I have run a carfax check on the car and it has a clean title and history. The chassis has 122,400 miles on it. Not that it matters other than the quarter dent its clear to see the chassis is in fine condition and its got the swapped motor with around 30k on it anyway. Feel free to PM with any questions you might have. I'll do my best to try and answer them as soon as possible.
I’m asking for $4500.
http://img172.imagevenue.com/loc913/th_98418_1_122_913lo.JPG (http://img172.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=98418_1_122_913lo.JPG) http://img182.imagevenue.com/loc356/th_98452_2_122_356lo.JPG (http://img182.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=98452_2_122_356lo.JPG) http://img174.imagevenue.com/loc220/th_98455_3_122_220lo.JPG (http://img174.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=98455_3_122_220lo.JPG) http://img173.imagevenue.com/loc976/th_98456_4_122_976lo.JPG (http://img173.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=98456_4_122_976lo.JPG)
http://img141.imagevenue.com/loc469/th_98458_5_122_469lo.JPG (http://img141.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=98458_5_122_469lo.JPG) http://img198.imagevenue.com/loc34/th_98460_6_122_34lo.JPG (http://img198.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=98460_6_122_34lo.JPG)
Located in Milton NY 12547 (About a 2 hour drive up from NYC)
The model year is 1996 and the car is essentially complete and running. The swap is about 90% done and only needs some trouble shooting. The electrical work is all done. The car did start and run. Everything is mounted only final timing after letting the car warm up wasn't done due to an oil leak from a loose bolt in the upper oil pan which was dealt with at Built Performance who also did the rest of the swap, but due to circumstances I had to get the car out of their shop before we got to run it again for final work, after they had fixed the loose pan bolt and the car has been sitting since on the trailer with which we towed it to my friends house.
Currently when the key is turned it goes to a half start and the internal electrics come on, but when the key is turned to start the starter simply clicks when the key is turned. It could be some faulty connections, or something else. I’m not competent in the area so I can’t assume
The clutch apparently makes an odd noise when pressed in for shifting according to the people at Built performance. I was told it could be something as simple as the replacing the throttle bearing, or could be that the blots used to attach the fly wheel aren't the proper length and are grinding inside. In either case there shouldn't be any significant damage since the car has not been driven. The transmission's main seal needs to be replaced as well because when it was started up for the test run it was leaking. All of which can be handled at once.
Other than that the rest of the car is fine. The only real noticeable defect is dent in passenger side quarter panel, (Previous owner's wife backed into it apparently) which can be reached from inside the car upon removal of the interior panel. Seems the previous owner had tried to hammer it out from the inside and managed to chip the paint a bit on the outside. I have been quoted a about $300 to get it taken care of by one of the paint less dent removal guys, but it never really bothered me so I didn't get it pulled out.
I also had the wheel wells rolled and the paint on the back edges of the lips is chipped, (not very noticeable). A little sanding and touch up would be more than fine I didn't mind because it’s better than the dent that a lot of rolls cause. My wheels fit nicely in there I wanted to get a spacer in there, but never got around to it. They can fit a wider wheel in there as well. The front fenders need to be re rolled because their edges have been bent from people accidentally leaning on them. Re-rolling of the fenders should get them back to their original shape or if not they can be replaced.
I had also relocated the battery to behind the passenger seat and had to drill holes to mount it about 6 millimeter and have since removed it due to it sitting and the battery dying and filled the holes with silicone and shut them due the car sitting. I didn’t want things to get in there I was going to weld them shut, but ran out of time before winter.
The car comes with a set of Work Rezax wheels (black spoke polished lip) 17x8 +5 17x9 +10 with a pair of brand new Falken st115's to be mounted on the front tires (One of them had a flat which is why I had the one original wheel on there in the pics) and the one's in the rear probably only have a couple of hundred miles on them. Minor wear and rash on the 1 of the front wheels, they could use a good polish.
Paint is fine all around other than the mentioned blemishes. The Entire engine bay was painted with POR15. The car had rust under the battery, but I had it cut out and molded a fresh piece in its place. Having used POR15 on just the 1 part looked odd, so did the whole bay up into the beginning of the trans tunnel (overkill). So no rust worries in there.
The car also has black 20% tint all around keeps the car from getting baking hot parked under the sun.
Interior
Both passenger and driver air bags have been removed, but I have all the parts if need be. Also took the ac components out, but again have all the parts the duct work is there for heat and fan will work as well. Other than that nothing wrong with the interior at all no rips and tears inside the car other than the small holes behind the passenger seat sealed shut. As mentioned the battery was relocated to behind the passenger seat for weight purposes but can easily be transferred to the trunk with a longer power wire. The car also comes with an Alpine CD player with tilt control on the face plate.
Engine
All motor work was done by Built Performance. S13 blacktop sr20det. As typical, the motor had around 30k on it when it was pulled from its donor car. Where this one defers is that it comes with a brand new turbo T25 ball bearing turbo from swapped Nissan complete with new Taka steel braided lines. Also included is a Greddy metal head gasket with stock compression and ARP head studs which were added preparation for the new turbo and higher boost. While installing the head studs the motor head was machined at a machine shop as well. The AC motor was removed from the engine. My fuel line was damaged so I replaced it with a steel braided one from the fuel pump down to the fuel filter.
Synopsis
It was a very fun car to drive even with its original engine. It’s unfortunate I will never really get to experience it with the new engine. I have put in too much time and effort and an insane amount of money into the car over which is the reason for selling it. I no longer have the time, nor the means to work on the car, or pay for someone else to work on it for me. I’m taking a huge loss on it at the price I am selling it for. I had paid a little less than what I'm selling it at and it was stock at the time.
Parts/work with 0 miles
S13 Blacktop SR20det Engine
Greddy S13 V-SPL Intercooler
New turbo
Act 6 puck unsprung clutch with heavy duty pressure plate & resurfaced lightened flywheel (10 lb)
Greddy electric gauges (black face) 60mm boost 52mm oil pressure/egt/temp Greddy Turbo Timer + Harness
Koyo aluminum Radiator
Tomei Fuel Pump
Cusco engine mounts
Unorthodox lightened crank pulley
Taka steel braided turbo lines
3"Downpipe/test pipe
New Greddy Metal Head Gasket
Machined Head
ARP head studs
All new Belts heater/radiator Hoses
Heavy Throttle Intake filter (looks like blitz)
All new Exhaust manifold studs washers and nuts
New version SPL tierods with, steering rack boots
Rocker Arm Stoppers
Steel Braided Fuel Line
Previously added parts with less than a 1000 miles on them
Blitz nur spec cat back (3 inch from the motor back)
kazz 2 way differential ( oil was very often with kazz oil only)
JIC FLTA2 Full coilovers with 2 new replacement shocks (all shocks and struts are fine got these two for eventual replacement)
Cusco front strut tower bar
Tanabe rear upper control arms
Tanabe rear sway bar
Personal steering wheel with momo hub
Nismo Slave cylinder
Nismo Steel braided clutch line
Alpine CD player
I am the second owner of the car. I have run a carfax check on the car and it has a clean title and history. The chassis has 122,400 miles on it. Not that it matters other than the quarter dent its clear to see the chassis is in fine condition and its got the swapped motor with around 30k on it anyway. Feel free to PM with any questions you might have. I'll do my best to try and answer them as soon as possible.
I’m asking for $4500.