240sx coupe track car build

[noname7198]

My friend and I are building a 89 240sx coupe track car. The car will be used for drifting and maybe some autoX. The purpose of this thread is to give people some ideas for building their cars and for people to give us their ideas and constructive criticism on this build.

Here's the basic plan:
strip and stich weld the chassis
install a 6 point cage, fire wall, fuel cell, fiberglass dash, gauges and seats
install coilovers, 2-way diff, 5 lug, bushings, RUCA's & tension rods
install sr20det (basically stock for now), v-mount, 3" exhaust
silvia front end, some light body work, and paint

As of right now we have stripped most of the car. I already have the following parts:
silk road coilovers
kaaz 2 way lsd
front & rear 5 lug
180sx front brakes
ES polyurathane bushings
silvia front end (we still need a hood)
Corbeau racing seats
fn01r-c wheels 17x8 & 17x9
sr20det (need to be rebuilt)
apexi power fc
I also have a gt2871r, but I'm waiting for more $$ and more seat time before that goes on.

What I still need to get:
RUCA's
toe arms
Traction rods
tension rods
spl subframe bushings
fuel cell and plumbing
piping for exhaust, cage and IC

We spent this weekend taking the car apart. I now live 306 miles from my friends house where the car is, so updates to this thread and the car will probably only come 1 or 2 times a month. On the next work weekend we will finish stripping and start cleaning and preping the chassis for seam welding.

The budget recently got a little tighter, but I still would like to get spl tie rod ends and possibly sway bars and traction rods. To the people who track their cars, do you have or think I need bigger sway bars? Let me know what you think and why.

This is the car last week when we towed it home. It was not running and cost $550.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/exterior.jpg

So I open the door before we move the car into the garage and this happens:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/firsttuning.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/firsttuning1.jpg

anyone have a door handle for sale?

Here's friday Pictures:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/interior.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/interior1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/prestrip2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/prestrip3.jpg

Saturday:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/firstday1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/firstday3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/day1KA.jpg

Sunday:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/Secondday1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/secondday2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/secondday3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/secondday4.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/secondday5.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/secondday6.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/secondday7.jpg

and just for fun:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/readytorace.jpg

180SX brakes are Maxima brakes, just to let you know

Go to www.splparts.com (http://www.splparts.com) and order 17x9+20 FN's for the front and rear. No reason to run an 8 inch wide wheel on the front a track car.

Looks pretty good. Looks like what I did to my fastback, hahaha. Just make sure you're organized. I totally have one of those heater-on-the-propane-tank things too.

I know the brakes are the same, but they actually came from a 180sx and they were only $20! I'm going to use these wheels while on the stock turbo. Then next fall or winter when the gt2871r goes on I'd like to get 17x10 rear and 17x9 fronts.
The heater's nice when you stand next to it, but no insulation and openings between the roof and the wall keep it about 30 degrees in there!

I finally got a long weekend to go down and work on the car. First problem, one of the sub-frame bushings froze to the stud. I cut the bushing out while it was on the car so we could drop the sub-frame, but now the inner metal sleeve is still stuck on the stud. Does anyone have any ideas for getting that off? I'll try to get a picture of it, I forgot before I left.

So we dropped the subframe, took all the suspension off of it and sand blasted so it's ready for paint.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/subframe.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/nosubframe.jpg

We also took out the front corssmember and started cleaning the engine bay for seam welding and paint.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/secondday7.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/enginebaydegreaser.jpg

We also removed the sound deadening. That was a bitch. We used dry ice,
which helped a bit for the big flat sections, but it took a lot of work to get that out. We still have to clean it up some more and then we can stich weld and install the custom cage.

Then came the fun part. We took out the windshield. We tried to take it out in 1 piece so we could put it back in. It broke, that was fun. Then we started cutting out extra metal. We cut out the spare tire well. We are going to square off the cut and weld in a flat piece of sheet metal to mount the fuel cell to. We also cut out the rear seat suports, that will give us more room for the cage and rear firewall that's going in next.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rear1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rear2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rear3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rear4.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rear5.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/striped.jpg

Over the next 2 weeks my friend is going to start seam welding and also take the block to the machine shop. Next time I go down we will start some of the fabrication. Now that we're done ripping it apart we can start putting it back together.

For the rust in the engine bay, it's just surface rust so we're gonna grind the rust off, then prime and paint. We have a couple spots on the floor where it's rusted through. For that, you want to cut out all the rust, then weld in a patch pannel (cut a piece of sheet metal to fit the hole in the floor then weld it in place).

If yours is rusted through and you don't have a welder, just take the car to a body shop and see how much they want to fix it for you, probably won't be too expensive.

My friend and his buddy (a professional welder) stich welded the chassis this weekend and started filling holes in the engine bay.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/preped1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/preped2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/preped3.jpg
This guy is awsome:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/brad1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/welding1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/welding2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/welding3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/welding4.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/welding5.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/welding6.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/welding7.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/welding8.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/welding9.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/welding10.jpg

It took us about a day to get everything prepped and another day to get most of the welding done. Then my friend has been working on it an hour or 2 a day after work here and there. We're going to prime it this weekend, then hopefully get it painted in march.

Excellent build, do you plan on racing any scca events at all in the northeast??? Stitch welds look amazing BTW

Right now we're just focusing on getting the car done. I'm going to start looking for events once it's ready to drive.

[greddyguy]

needs mo pics!!!

[ByeByeSti]

good start bro. im doing the same with my s14 at the moment, i have it stripped down to what you do but wokring on tubs and what not for the enigne bay since i messed up at the first set. but keep up the good work and post more pics when you make more progress please :)

[Rusker]

Looking good so far.

[alindeman1989]

good start, keep us updated

[PoorMans180SX]

Here's the basic plan:


180sx front brakes

fn01r-c wheels 17x8 & 17x9



180SX brakes are Maxima brakes, just to let you know

Go to www.splparts.com and order 17x9+20 FN's for the front and rear. No reason to run an 8 inch wide wheel on the front a track car.

Looks pretty good. Looks like what I did to my fastback, hahaha. Just make sure you're organized. I totally have one of those heater-on-the-propane-tank things too.

[unicoladron]

i love build threads. noname, i suggest you look at Gavster's and CursedGTR's builds for ideas/insparation. their builds are effing awesome.

550 is steal for a chassis in such good condition. have fun with the build!!

[PoorMans180SX]

Oh, nice price!

I take it you already bought the wheels. Too bad.

[weagle]

Looking good so far.


Broken door handle = weight savings. Just tie a string to the inside handle and hang it out the window. Ghetto shaved door handles

[IcedOutSoulja13]

dont forget toe links in ur set up...if u plan on getting a good alignment ull be stuck with only a limit of toe adjustability due to the stock restrictions..i only say this because once u put on aftermarket RUCAs the toe can only be corrected with aftermarket toe links...

as for sway bars i personally have tanabe and noticed a significant difference but alot of guys on the forums say that the stock ones are beefy enough and have just enough play to make the car handle well...maybe just get some sway bar endlinks and main bushings?

[ALEXTHESUS*PECT]

good job so far. almost looks like a hatch from this view:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/striped.jpg

[stinky_180]

great start man! are you planning on selling the intake ? if so, let me know!

[s13.dark1]

very nice looks real good keep posting put dates and them pics to go along wit.

[BoostedCoupe]

I finally got a long weekend to go down and http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/secondday7.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/enginebaydegreaser.jpg

We also removed the sound deadening. This was a bitch. We used dry ice,
which helped a bit for the big flat sections, but it took a lot of work to get that out. We still have to clean it up some more and then we can stich weld and install the custom cage.Hey i see u have rust exactly were i do (on the left of the pic on the strut tower). ho do you plain on fixing this and when you do can you please go into good detail because i plain on fixing mine soon to but i cant find any threads where people fix it they basically just get a new chassis in stead. also i have rust down on where the brake line comes therw the body on the pass side. how would you go about fixing that or do you even think its worth it. thanks and nice project its nice to see someone restoring a car instead of getting a new one.

[[email protected]]

looks like a fun project, the only advise i have for auto-x is do your research on where the 240 is most competitive and make sure a mod that you really don't need doesn't bump you up to a higher class.

[BoostedCoupe]

yeah im not doing it. i jusy need some motivation that it can be repaired.

[Tops*]

Wow, this is like looking at my future (this year's) build.

Stitch welds look good. How long did it take total to clean, grind, and stitch everything?







I'm fucking subscribing to this build for sure.

[PuffinPuffer]

great build, keep all of us updated! have fun!

[joshchewuhh]

coming real nice so far!

i wanna stitch weld my chassis also i to would like to know how long it took your guy?

[unicoladron]

now that is some badass stich welding. the best i've seen yet! love the build so far man, can't wait to see some more progress!

what are you gonna use to protect the welds from surface rust?

[an_orange_s2k]

so many builds going on

[turboh224g]

I am the other guy working on this build. I have to say that the professional welder, Brad, who helped us really did a great job of stitch welding. He welds for a fab shop that makes exhaust for exotics. So stepping down to weld on a 240 chasis is great for us. I finished up when he had to leave and mine may look ok and be functional but he spent half as much time as me. JKP

[Enjin]

I am doing the same thing. wondering about all of the tar that still remains after removing the sound deadening. how do you get that out? it looks so stupid haha. need that clean look.

[whowutwut]

I am doing the same thing. wondering about all of the tar that still remains after removing the sound deadening. how do you get that out? it looks so stupid haha. need that clean look.

When I did mine, it took forever!! but i finally removed all that tar and it looked clean... used all different types of adhesive removers and lots of rags and elbow grease..

[Landers]

Excellent build, do you plan on racing any scca events at all in the northeast??? Stitch welds look amazing BTW

[turboh224g]

I guess I should be commenting a bit more on exactly how we are doing things. Most people know that dry ice works well to remove the bulk of the sounddeadening on the flat surfaces. I used 5 lbs. Elbow grease is definately another part of it. There are also aircraft strippers that work well for that last bit of tar but I wanted something a little less toxic and user friendly. I used Klean Strip Premium stripper, it worked great. Very fast acting, aerosal can, and turns that tar into an easily removable jelly. I just used a paint scraper and very little effort. I also let it sit overnite on the tar patches on the back of the rear fender wells and it softened the adhesive to the point that a dull chisel scraped it right off with very little residue. There is also the issue of all the caulk in the seams. For this I used a wire twist wheel on a 7 inch angle grinder. A little scarry but very effective. Bothe the wire wheel and the stripper were purchased at Lowes. JKP

[joshchewuhh]

bravo!
a lot of work
im keeping watch of this thread!

I guess I should be commenting a bit more on exactly how we are doing things. Most people know that dry ice works well to remove the bulk of the sounddeadening on the flat surfaces. I used 5 lbs. Elbow grease is definately another part of it. There are also aircraft strippers that work well for that last bit of tar but I wanted something a little less toxic and user friendly. I used Klean Strip Premium stripper, it worked great. Very fast acting, aerosal can, and turns that tar into an easily removable jelly. I just used a paint scraper and very little effort. I also let it sit overnite on the tar patches on the back of the rear fender wells and it softened the adhesive to the point that a dull chisel scraped it right off with very little residue. There is also the issue of all the caulk in the seams. For this I used a wire twist wheel on a 7 inch angle grinder. A little scarry but very effective. Bothe the wire wheel and the stripper were purchased at Lowes. JKP

[floodo1]

man super clean out the engine bay..i mean fill ALL the extra holes and shape it a bit...then you can compete with the honduh guys for cleanest engine bay :)

l8tz
josh

[noname7198]

We spent last weekend getting the new trunk floor and rear fire wall fitted and welded in.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/trunk.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rearfirewall3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rearfirewall.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rearfirewall2.jpg


Then started on the cage. Our pipe bender didn't really work (it crushed the pipe) so I had to pay a shop to make the bends. It doesn't fit as perfect as I would like, but it's coming together nicely.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/mainhoop.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/apillarbars.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/halo.jpg

I started to prep the engine bay for paint. We welded over all the unused holes, ground them down, then used filler to smooth them out. It's still a work in progress, but it's starting to look better.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/enginebay.jpg

And since I don't have any money left over for adjustable traction rods, this will have to work for now.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/customarms.jpg

no ac or heat or any other luxury's for that matter. It's a track car, so nothing extra.

I'm not sure about the welder, it's not mine.

The cage is just tacked in right now to make sure everything fits. It'll be a little closer when it's all done. It looks worse in the pictures than it really is. More pics will come as we get more done.

Looks like a good project car for 500 bucks.
Off the top of my head:
FIBERGLASS DASH" Don't get overly exotic making one. Pre Fabbed flat panels are the way to go for good weight loss. I think my dash is 3lb's.

FUEL CELL: Not necessary right now until you start running race gas and need to control your weight (racing and TA anyway) But a good upgrade.

2 WAY DIFF: For drifting is fine. Not for racing or TA. For that you should stick with a Helical like a Quaife Helical LSD if you are serious about racing.

SWAY BAR: For drifting you want a good rigid setup front and back. For race and TA you want a rigid setup in the front, and softer setup (stock) in the rear.

WEIGHT REDUCTION: Plenty to be had starting with that sound deadening (30lb's) on that alone.

Good luck and keep us updated. :Ownedd:

Do you have pics of your dash? I was planning to mold the stock one (just the top part). Then add flat pieces on the sides around the cage.
The cars main purpose is drifting, so that's why the 2 way.
I'm looking for a hicas rear sway bar, and thinking I'll keep the stock front for now. I'll try that out and see how I like it.
As for weight reduction, all the sound deadening is gone, pretty much everything is gone at this point. Is there anything else you can see in the pictures that you would remove?

We got some more done last week. Still finishing up the cage. Put the subframe back together and back on the car. I'm almost finished prepping the engine bay for paint. I painted under the new trunk and primed the inside of it. We also cut out and adjusted the floor for the fuel cell sump. Here are a couple new pics. I'll post more when my friend puts them up on photobucket.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/cpillarplate.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/cpillar3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/cpillar.jpg

engine bay almost ready for paint:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/enginebay2.jpg

fuel cell:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/fuelcell.jpg
Under trunk floor:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/trunk2-1.jpg
Trunk ready for paint:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/trunk1.jpg
Trunk lid:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/trunklid.jpg

Our custom knock off nismo brace:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/powerbrace1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/powerbrace2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/powerbrace3.jpg

Sub-frame ready to go back in:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rearsubframe1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rearsubframe2.jpg

Roll cage:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/plate1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/xbar2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/xbar1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/xbar3.jpg

Apperently Jason doesn't sleep and just works on the car. Last weekend he finished the cage and fabbed the new radiator support.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rollcage.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rollcage2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rollcage3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rollcage4.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/newradsupport.jpg

He's gonna finish prepping and prime the interior so we'll be ready for paint this weekend. Then all we have to do is fit the front end, re-install the front crossmember, make a dash and door pannels, plumb the fuel system, rebuild the motor, fix the harness and a whole lot of wiring and hope it runs. Then a shit ton of body work and some suspension tuning and we're done... For now.

We fabbed up the new seat brackets. Here are some pics of the seats bolted into place.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/seats3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/seats2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/seats1.jpg

We painted the trunk, interior and engine bay this weekend.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint4.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint3.jpg

Painting around the cage was a huge pain in the ass, but it turned out really nice.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint5.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint7.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint6.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint8.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint9.jpg

and the eninge bay:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint10.jpg

We also started fitting the front end:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/silviafront1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/silviafront2.jpg

The exterior is going to be blue. I'm leaning toward Daytona Blue (factory 350z color) or maybe something a little more metallic.

[Landers]

I really like that traction arm idea. Good improvment over stock for now. Also i like what you did with the interior and the rear firewall, im going to design something similar to that in my car.

[jbuckley]

im really diggin the trunk ! good luck on the build

[bo2o]

so no ac or heat?

[IIIXziuR]

What MIG welder are you guys using and what is your set-up? Power?
How are you performing the stitch welding on the chassis?

Build looks real promosing, should be fun to follow your progress.
Keep up the work fellas!

[ByeByeSti]

damn, those welds lookin real good, wish mine came out that clean

[dxs080jpgex]

thats not the final shape of the cage is it?
its awefully far from those a pillars
great build though
id love to find a coupe near me!

[sijia10358]

wow! this looks like a interesting build up!!! i wanna see the finished product!!!

[PoorMans180SX]

holy stitch welds batman! I take it you're going for chassis strength, because it seems like half of those would do. Did you make sure you had some way to keep the chassis from flexing with the heat?

Cage and rear firewall look good.

[Tomkun-s13]

Good job on the build. You know you could just cut the end off the control arms and box them then add some heim joints. Not to much more work then what you've done.

[IIIXziuR]

Okay cool man, if you could ask your buddy about the welding and what not that would be awesome. Just trying to get a general idea of how it was done.

[mugendork]

just a thought, you said that your pipe bender was crushing the tubing? A cheap trick is to find a way to plug the ends, plumbing cap etc etc...plug one side, fill it completely with sand, then plug the other side, it should not collapse if done correctly...

[kognition]

Looks like a good project car for 500 bucks.
Off the top of my head:
FIBERGLASS DASH" Don't get overly exotic making one. Pre Fabbed flat panels are the way to go for good weight loss. I think my dash is 3lb's.

FUEL CELL: Not necessary right now until you start running race gas and need to control your weight (racing and TA anyway) But a good upgrade.

2 WAY DIFF: For drifting is fine. Not for racing or TA. For that you should stick with a Helical like a Quaife Helical LSD if you are serious about racing.

SWAY BAR: For drifting you want a good rigid setup front and back. For race and TA you want a rigid setup in the front, and softer setup (stock) in the rear.

WEIGHT REDUCTION: Plenty to be had starting with that sound deadening (30lb's) on that alone.

Good luck and keep us updated. :Ownedd:

[eastcoastS14]

nice...where in MA are you located?

[noname7198]

nice...where in MA are you located?

I'm in Sudbury, but the car is at my friends house near Philly.

[RedtopTech]

Any updates bud?

[sac]

looks like your off to a good start man.. That sucks the car is that far away.. I would hate not being able to go out and work on my car whenever.. stitch weldin looks good.. :)

[Landers]

Lovin this build! Car is coming out very nicely. Props!:bowdown:

[racepar1]

I would have mounted the fuel cell lower, almost in the stock location, personally. I would have also made the rear firewall and trunk floor out of aluminum to save weight as the cage should brace the back of the car good enough to not need the extra rigidity of the welded in firewall and trunk pan. I would really like to see what kognition has to say about my opinions though. Good overall build thoguh!

[JesusFreakDrifter]

excellent, subscribed, hopefully this turns out well. this is why zilvia needs a build section

[sr20det drift]

SICK BRO, those are some nice ideas

[turboh224g]

Ok, it has been a while since I last posted. Been busy building. As far as the welder I am using, mostly MILLER 135, mig, 75/25 argon/CO2, 110 power, .030 wire for most and .024 for the sheet. Also have a generic tig/plasma setup. Not using that much right now but will tig the stainless tubing. This is my first rollcage. I have definately learned a lot. I know that it is by no means perfect but I am happy with the overall result. The X-bars were very difficult. My cheap tubing notcher only goes to 45 degrees and the x-bars are around 60 degrees. That meant a lot of hand notching. By the end I was getting much better and faster. There have been several comments on the amount of stitch welding/chasis stifening we are doing, I just want to clarify. We are building this car on a very strict $10,000 budget with the overall goal of creating a competative car ( with the right driver, not me ). We do not want to have to rebuild this car anytime soon. With that in mind we are probably going overboard to create a chasis that will hopefully stand up to the abuse of regular track days and regular competition. Perhaps we are dreaming big but can you blame us. Thanks for all the support,
JKP

[HS13KLS]

wow man... this is gettin good.. its turning out really well.. good job man

[cbcustoms]

Starting to look really good. What color are you doing on the exterior?

[ms!3]

damn, nice build. looking forward to more updates.

[PoorMans180SX]

Looking good so far.

Nice fab.

[SexPanda]

i have so many ideas right now...

just out of shear curiosity... what is the total cost of your build to date? I already have the silvia front end so you dont need to include that.

i really want to just tear my car apart and do it right the first time, take my time with it, you know?

[noname7198]

I've spent about $1500 just on the chassis. I'm not sure the total on the build, but it's under $10,000.

[SexPanda]

under 10 grand is doable. Are you going sr20? Seeing as how im working my ass off and still going to school, I dont have the time to do an sr20 swap. The people at Adrenaline Motorsports in STL quoted me 4500 for an sr20 swap done in house, if i end up going through them. Ive heard good stuff, but i want to make sure they dont half ass it. And i'll prolly have a 10 grand budget, so yeah... Damn i wish i had the time!!

[noname7198]

Fit the front bumper:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/silviafront3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/silviafront4.jpg

I know the front end looks pretty banged up, but it was only like $350. It's all repairable, and will look great once it's fixed and painted (or I'll hit a wall and completly trash it first)...

On to the V-mount:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/vmount1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/vmount2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/vmount3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/vmount4.jpg

[g-via]

you are awesome.

[Signum Temporis]

you are awesome.

x2... ive wanted to do the same this with the radiator/intercooler/fans

[s13drob]

no $...
+ 2 much inspiration...
________________________
= me

im blocking zilvia now!

[Sonic Motor]

v-mount is teh bestest.
Gives you a great excuse to have a vented hood hahah

[KiLLaS13]

lovin the radiator and intercooler!!!

[s13 drifta]

This is a dope ass build, keep up the work.

[g-via]

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/vmount2.jpg


Just wondering...

Since you did all the fab work yourselves, how do you determine the angle to mount the v-mount? I would assume there is an optimum angle for maximum efficiency? Or is more of case of see-what-fits ?

great build, you make me jealous :bigok:

[sillydrift]

nice build man! coming out nice, subscribed

[a_ahmed]

You are awesome is true.

This is the best 240 build thread to date imho :) Very cool stuff bro all pix saved haha

[proledoriat]

It's very nice so far! I'm assuming your going to be working on some air ducting for the v-mount though.

[turboh224g]

Before I set up the v mount I looked at everything I could find. Since it is primarily pro cars that are running this I did not find a whole lot of info mostly pics. I am sure others have done this and I would love to hear from them. The way I did things was definately make it fit. We bought the rad to fit between the frame rails and we had the evo intercooler. I mounted the intercooler, after having all the body panels mounted, and then the radiator. I wanted there to be some space between the two at the top and I knew I wanted the bottom of the radiator to pretty much line up with the opening in the bumper. I think things should work out pretty well. Thanks,
JKP

[afro88]

Make sure when you do the ducting ensure that it allows pretty much all the outside air to cross over the entire v-mount setup (from mouth to end). I've heard so many stories of people doing v-mount with bad ducting, in the end it cools worse than a conventional setup.

[JRas]

build is awesome, keep it up

[Phlip]

I merged some posts to clean this thread up, with the thread starter's approval, of course...
noname7198, please do me the favor of letting me know when you have updates via PM so I can merge them to keep things clean, I will subsidize as many as I can into one post.
EVERYONE ELSE; PLEASE stop quoting multiple pictures if your question is about one. This build is one of the few that come in the style that I like to see, in that there are regular updates and things to be properly questioned. I WOULD thank you all to relegate the questions being asked to private messages when possible though. I am +repping the OP for this thread for all that it is worth.

[240sxJoker]

well you have done a GREAT job on the build. keep up the good work.

[noname7198]

We got a lot done this weekend. Here's a few more pics of the progress.
First a couple more interior pics:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/interior3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/interior4.jpg

Radiator modified for V-mount and AN fittings, V-mount mounting and duct work:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/radiator1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/radiator2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/vmount5.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/vmount6.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/vmount7.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/ducting1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/ducting2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/ducting3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/ducting4.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/ducting5.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/ducting8.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/ducting6.jpg

I'm not sure why there are fingers in there, this actually seals at the top:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/ducting7.jpg

And a big hole in the hood:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/ducting9.jpg

Old, crappy tie rods:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/stocktierods.jpg

Shiney new tie rods:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/teintierods.jpg
There should be a pic of them installed coming soon.

Steering rack bushings:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/steeringbushings.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/steeringbushings2.jpg

Rusty 180sx brakes and new 5 lug:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/5lug1.jpg
With tension rods installed:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/frontsuspension.jpg
and cause I'm cool:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/5lug2.jpg

nice and clean:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/brakebooster.jpg

Block coming together:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rebuild3.jpg

The block and trans are in the car. We still need a s13 head gasket.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rebuild4.jpg

My first attempt at a fiberglass dash. It needs a lot of work, but should be pretty sweet when it's all done. It weighs about a pound right now, I'm hoping to keep it under 5.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/fiberglassdash1.jpg

We also installed the new windshield. I'll post a pic when Jason uploads it to photobucket.

[didderson]

wow man nice update. I'm really impressed with your fiberglassing skills. Makes me want to hone in on mine.
Only thing I was sad about is u painted the pretty aluminum block black :(. I just love Aluminum so thats just me.
Good work.

[Signum Temporis]

cant wait to see how that dash turns out... keep up the good work :bigok:

[PoorMans180SX]

I would fill that gap in between the IC and rad. It would force more air through both. Are you planning on running fans on the IC?

Again, it looks good.

[whowutwut]

How well do the v-mount set ups work? They are def cool to see..

I was over at Signal Auto in LA about 2 years back and was talking to the guys at the shop. (They were one of the earlier people running this v-mount configuration) The guy said they had all sorts of cooling problems when drifting/racing because the angle of the fins did not allow for as much air flow o pass through as the conventional set up. .. any thoughts on that?

[JohnJohn86]

Sweet! I wish I can build my car like that.

[turboh224g]

For those of you following this thread you will remember my friend Brad from earlier posts. He works at a shop called Fabspeed. I took the radiator to him for the modifications because I have a dc only tig. While at his shop the newest employee Kenny McNeil was there providing advise on welding aluminum, this was Brads first time. Kenny designed the twin turbo system for the Ferrari F40, built the AWE silver bullet car, has worked on grand am cup cars, F1 cars, dirt track cars, and probably many other things I am forgetting. Most recently he built 2 drift cars, wouldn't tell me whose. He was familar with the v mount setup and gave me some advice on how to do it right. Quality rad and ic are important. Ducting is extremely important. Hood duct should vent back slightly to draw air through the intercooler and out the hood. Fans are advised at least on the radiator. There is no reason the v mount should not be more efficient if properly done. The one thing to consider with any cooling system is air flow is critical. Amature drifters tend to travel at lower speeds decreasing air flow, so a v mount might seem less efficient when you are starting out. OOps, I guess we should have waited until Jamie is better before trying this. Oh well it is almost done now. Thanks,
JKP

[onehundredoctane]

I think this is a valid question, I think I'm the first to ask this in the thread, didn't see it in earlier post. But what heat range welder was used for the stitch welding? The welder I have is a gets the metal a bit too hot and usually burns thru the metal, just wondering what heat range was used, if I'm not mistaken mine is a 900° and it's still too hot.

[turboh224g]

I am not sure what you mean by heat range? I have never heard a welder refered to that way. I have been using a miller 135 for most of the work. I am sure you can get all the specs from miller. Hope that helps,
JKP

[ZenkiCam]

wow man nice update. I'm really impressed with your fiberglassing skills. Makes me want to hone in on mine.
Only thing I was sad about is u painted the pretty aluminum block black :(. I just love Aluminum so thats just me.
Good work.

yea and you painted your tranny urban camo!

haha jk.

Nice work no name best build thread on zilvia.

[onehundredoctane]

I am not sure what you mean by heat range? I have never heard a welder refered to that way. I have been using a miller 135 for most of the work. I am sure you can get all the specs from miller. Hope that helps,
JKP
I'm probbly wrong, but I think 135 refers to a certian heat range, the welder I have continues to burn through the metal and that is even on the best parts of the car that aren't rusted away.

[shadow_s13]

I really like your build up!!! Keep up the good work.

[tuner03]

damn, nice build, and nice thread, just a couple questions, by chance do you still have the dimensions for your cage, where did you get the gusset plates, and can you get more detailed pics of the rear firewall, im getting started on my coupe, and like the firewall idea. good luck with the build, and keep us all posted!!!

[turboh224g]

I do not have the dimensions for the cage. I found a local roll cage shop and took them cardboard templates and they bent the main hoop and a pillar bars from there. They left them long so I could cut them to fit. If by gussets you are refering to the plates that attach the a and b pillars to the cage I made those myself. I have the dimple dies and a press. The firewall was the same as the cage I made a cardboard template that got me close and then it was a lot of in and out of the car to take a little off hear and there. I made the firewall one piece and then had to make two small patch pieces at the top sides where the stock sheet metal does not go all the way around. Hope this helps,
JKP

[noname7198]

test fitting the new dash:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/dash3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/dash4.jpg

fiberglass passenger door pannel:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/doorskin1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/doorskin2.jpg

3" turbo back exhaust.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/exhaust3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/exhaust2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/exhaust4.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/exhaust5.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/exhaust1.jpg

Intake:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/intake1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/intake2.jpg

Trunk pins and latches:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/trunk-1.jpg

fuel cell, lines, pump and filter:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/fuel1.jpg

Painted radiator support:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rebuild6.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rebuild8.jpg

And she's back on the ground:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/onground.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/onground2.jpg

[bardabe]

So far so good.

[SR2Zero]

Amazing... This thread has it all... V-mount, fiberglassing, stitch welding... definetely the best build thread I've ever read. Loving it man!

[Iwant2slide_S13]

DAMN want more updates, :bowdown:

[noname7198]

I posted in the WTB section, but I figured I'd post here too incase anyone following this build wants to help us out.

We need an intake manifold gasket and a wiring harness so we can get this thing running for DOW on the 28th. If anyone has either that would really really help us out.

We have a harness, but it is incredibly messed up. And we ordered the gasket 2 weeks ago, but I think we got ripped off. This is so frustrating.

[Hawaiian240]

Awesome buildup!! Keep up the good work!

[Smurf_240SX]

This is really coming out great! cant wait to see more.

[nevaland9]

wow sick build, any ideas on a color yet?

keep up the good work man.

[BBSilvia]

WOW!!! amazing build cant wait to see the updates!!!!!

[turboh224g]

This has been a rough couple of days. Jamie was in town probably for the last weekend for a while. That means we were extremely focused on getting as far as possible. Jamie got most of the suspension set to near zero as a starting point, wired lights, finished engine odds and ends, and kept working on the fiberglass dash. What did I do WIRE. It seemed like everything we had was different than what most people get with an sr harness and motor. I spent a lot of time looking things up on Zilvia trying to make sense of what we had. We are very close to running as long as ther are no major issues. We will keep you posted
JKP

[noname7198]

Well, it's been a long time since the last update, so I figured I'd give it one. Not a lot has changed. You may have seen our other threads about trying to get the car to start. Basically the wiring is done (though it needs to be cleaned up a bit more). The car cranks and backfires, but just won't start. I ended up selling my bike and buying a running sr powered s13 hatch. We've been using parts off that to test and eliminate possible problems with the coupe. We were having problems with the power fc, so that is gone as well as the z32 maf. Now the car is on a stock ecu and stock maf (for now). We're gonna mess with it a little more, but I'm trying to save some money in case I have to pay someone to get it running. We found a race shop close by that's going to do the alignment. If we can't get it to start I'll just tow it there and pay them to figure it out.
We are also working on the dash and body. Trying to get it all primed up and ready for paint.

Sorry I only have a couple new pics:

Engine bay:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1158.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1159.jpg

5 point harnesses installed:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1160.jpg

Welded the stock open diff. The car has a Kaaz 2 way on it now, but I want to try this at some point.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1157.jpg

[racepar1]

You should weld the side gears to the case as well for extra strength. I would be worried about those 4 small welds breaking.

EDIT: I have seen some of ......'s (I forget the guy's name, but he sells a TON of welded diffs here on zilvia) diffs and the whole dam diff is welded everywhere. That's probably why one of his diffs has never broken as far as anyone knows.

[Landers]

Glad to see some updates, Car is looking good. Thumbs up!

[turboh224g]

This is my first welded diff. What do you mean by welding the side gears as well? I read some threads and did 4 points on both sides 3 welds deep with a tig. What else should I do? Thanks,
JKP

[HyperTek]

you could try welding the sides.. The diff in my fc was welded like yours, previous owner did a few track events in it.. but shit broke on me from daily driving it lol.. just threw another one in, but welded the sides as well.

http://i33.tinypic.com/30sg3us.jpg

[s13 @ fullboost]

This looks really good can not wait for the next update =]

[DDDsquad_s13panda]

WOW jst readin this is addicting. i wish i have the time and money. even a place to take apart my S13 and get nearly as yours. way to go bro..

cant wait for the new pics.

[HunsakerS14]

fuck that engine bay is clean and fuckin sick lookin.
+1 for balleresque

[ka-turbo]

hate to bring this back from the dead but any update on this

awesome build want to know soo much more on welding some professional welders said that they have to use a 220 on the chasis but they never stitch welded before they said they need that size for penetration what do you think

[turboh224g]

I had no problems with getting good penetration. Before I started stitch welding I took a few pieces of scrap we had cut out and played around with the heat until I got the setting right. With My friend 135 we were able to get good penetration without burning through. Most of the places you are stitch welding are pretty thin only 2 or 3 layers of thin gauge sheet. In my opinion a lower amp welder worked just fine. Thanks,
JKP

[noname7198]

Sorry there hasn't been any updates. We have been trying to get the car to start for a while now. Everything we check seems to be working correctly, it turns over and backfires, but will not start still. We are out of idea's, so I'm giving up and paying someone to get the starting issue sorted out. They will also do the alignment while it's there. There will be an update when we get the car back. Then it's just body work and paint until I can afford a bigger turbo...

[noname7198]

The guys at RT Tuning have found the problem. One of the connecting rod caps was bent by .0024" and put too much pressure on the crank so it couldn't turn fast enough to start. So the motor came out again:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/pulledagain.jpg

Good thing the whole front end comes off with 4 bolts.

Here's the problem:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/theproblem.jpg

So the motor is torn down again. The crank is back at the machine shop. When the new bearings get here, the motor will get put back together and go back in the car. And then it WILL START (capitalized for optimism).

Once it's running RT Tuning will do the alignment and we should be good to go.

[Nikeboy355]

This is an awesome build man... Can't wait to see it done...

I especially like the fiberglass work on the dash and door panels...

[civilized_drifter]

any updates man?

[neverrain]

You should weld the side gears to the case as well for extra strength. I would be worried about those 4 small welds breaking.

EDIT: I have seen some of ......'s (I forget the guy's name, but he sells a TON of welded diffs here on zilvia) diffs and the whole dam diff is welded everywhere. That's probably why one of his diffs has never broken as far as anyone knows.

Aron, you are thinking of Weld Locd. You can find his thread here Offical Weld Locd Thread (http://zilvia.net/f/advertiser-specials-sales/159852-official-weld-locd-lsd-thread-version-4-now-only-75-version-3-60-a.html). Supposedly has never had a welded diff break. Not a bad price either.

[tricky_ab]

This build is awesome, keep up the great work!

[ZenkiCam]

old thread, but i love this build. updates?

[noname7198]

It's been a long few weeks, but the car is finally running. There are still a few minor things to work out, but it's almost ready to drive.

We put the rear 5 lug on and mounted the body kit:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1226.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1225.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/allprimed.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1222.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1224.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1223.jpg
The lights work:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1234.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1235.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/allprimed2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/finalducting.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rearsupport2.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/rearsupport.jpg

We are giving up on the fiberglass dash for now. It doesn't really weigh much less than the cut up stock dash, so that's what's going in for now.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1227.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1233.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/blackdash.jpg
And yes, we still need to clean up the wiring under there.

and the latest motor shots:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1232.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/catchcan.jpg

[HS13KLS]

so what high pressure ps line are you using? the one from ma motorsports?

also

on the welded diff..

ever think of taking a 1/4 piece of steel and cut it to size so it slaps in place where the "square" hole is in the diff and then weld that also. to make it even stronger

[ZenkiCam]

so what high pressure ps line are you using? the one from ma motorsports?

also

on the welded diff..

ever think of taking a 1/4 piece of steel and cut it to size so it slaps in place where the "square" hole is in the diff and then weld that also. to make it even stronger


that is very common. my welded diff if plated on both sides with a 3/8in steel gusset, tig welded.

also, noname, exactly how many wires are you running in your car? it looks like a lot behind the dash, but all i see is ignition, fuel, lights, wiper, fan, and your gauges. why does it look like there are way more wires?

also how did you wire your lights up? did you use factory connectors or straight wired?

[turboh224g]

The wiring in this car is extremely simple. We are running the engine harness only and have direct wired all the accessories. Currently there is still a lot of the excess wires from the engine harness in the car. We are going to get rid of everything that is not needed eventually. For right now we want to keep the harness uncovered and accessable in case we need to make any changes. when we are sure the car is perfect we will get rid of everything and tape up the whole harness. There are a lot more fab pics that will be up this weekend. radiator protector, rear bumper support, v-mount ducting for this bumper. Later,
JKP

[edp]

In our sea island climate with all of the salt in the air we generally wire brush surface rusted areas to remove the looser rust and then use a spray bottle filled with Ospho to kill the rust and convert it to iron phosphate. Even unprotected, this treatment will preserve the steel for years. We do putty, prime and paint over the neutralized rust. We also spray Ospho liberally into hollow chassis sections etc to kill rust that can't be accessed any other way.
Great build and nice work. Keep up the progress reports.

[PoorMans180SX]

Very nice. Awesome that you're doing all this in your garage. Keep it coming!

[240SX2high2aim]

Wow this is an awesome thread and Had a question on how much does stich welding the entire car cost if you were not doing the work yourself?

[ZipTied]

Love what you've done with it man. Looks great. Try looking for a black dash though. Haha. I could get you one if you wanted. Sorry that dash is ugly haha. Rest of the car is SEX!!!!

[TehMaverick]

car looks amazing, love everything you did with it man!

Love what you've done with it man. Looks great. Try looking for a black dash though. Haha. I could get you one if you wanted. Sorry that dash is ugly haha. Rest of the car is SEX!!!!

lol, it's a track whore, not a show car.

[240SX2high2aim]

Wow this is an awesome thread and Had a question on how much does stich welding the entire car cost if you were not doing the work yourself?

Any1 know any info on this??? BTW great thread and build cant wait to see updates

[turboh224g]

Not sure what the exact cost to stitch weld the chasis would be but I would have to think a lot. The main reason being it is very labor intensive. You have to strip all the paint, sound deadening, and caulk out of the seams before you can stitch weld. This process alone takes a lot of time, and then you still have all the welding to do. It would be a lot cheaper to buy a welder and do it all yourself, plus when you are done you have the welder to use for other projects. JKP

[noname7198]

Not much has changed since the last update. We installed a catch can, put on the tow hooks and made and installed a water neck spacer tapped for a water temp gauge sensor and a fitting for the expansion tank.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1257.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_1258.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/adapterinstalled.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/adapter.jpg

We also shot a teaser video that was supposed to lead to some drift action. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it to the event... A series of small problems the day of the event almost stopped us from going, but what ended up stopping us was the freakin tow dolly! The car is too low for a dolly and will require a trailer, so if anyone local has one for sale cheap...

Anyway, here is the video that includes a nice slow ride around the neighborhood instead:

YouTube - race car teaser (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzbMNOWEwXQ)

So it looks like the car will be getting torn apart again this winter without seeing the track this year. Next on my list of things to do is finish the body work and paint the car. We’ve also got this to work on:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/next.jpg

[240SX2high2aim]

beautiful also I do not know how to weld and have no experience so what do you recommend me to do?

[Vision Garage]

Tip.

Upload that video with no music. I'm sure a LOT of folk would rather hear the car in all its glory.

Musics nice and all, but personally, I'd rather hear the car.

I'd rather hear the car.

PS. You're doing it right. Great job!

[240SX2high2aim]

Nice job cant wait tell you paint this things going to be off the hook

[WangonwWarrior]

Must see in action

[DJButton]

Nice work, love it!

[crashtestracer]

i am sorry i dont know if this was answered already (the computer I am on frezzes every time I try to change pages) between stitch welding and I think it said that you used foam as well did you see a lot of help from the foam after welding and cage?

[khilgers]

is that your O2 sensor hanging down at 1:02

nice build

[noname7198]

We did not use any foam.

No, thats not the o2 sensor hanging. I'm not really sure what that went to, but it will be removed along with all the other useless plugs when we get to cleaning up the wiring (hopefully that will happen soon).

Not really much to update right now. We're waiting on the garage to be finished, then its more body work and paint. I'm hoping to have it painted by the end of February, but it really depends on how often I can get down there to work on it... Unless Jason wants to do some body work...

[turboh224g]

am pretty much leaving the body work to Jamie. I can and will do a lot of things but I hate bodywork. Currently I am working on putting together a second motor. This one will be higher horsepower. I have a stock bore block, about to be freshened up at the machine shop, stock pistons and rods, all arp hardware, greddy oil pan, s15 oil pump, BC 272 cams ( still need to get springs retainers and ras ), Precision gt2871r .86 a/r. We are currently working on a custom top mount fuel rail and top mount equal length turbo manifold. I will post some pics when we get a little further along.
JKP

[noname7198]

We spent the weekend doing body work. All that's left is wet sanding and fixing minor scratches and imperfections in the primer, then it's ready for paint. We decided to shave the upper body line because it looks a lot cleaner that way. Here is how we did the doors:

Here is the stock door:
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0310.jpg

First grind the line down to bare metal, then feather the original paint to keep it smooth:
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0311.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0312.jpg

Then add filler (pink), sand smooth, and use spot puddy (red) to get the minor imperfections:
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0314.jpg

Sand smooth and prime it and it looks like this:
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0316.jpg

I don’t have any pictures of the process, but we used fiberglass resin to fill the line on the fenders. Since we plan to run wider wheels this year we decided to get 20mm wider front fenders and 50mm over fenders in the rear.

First we cut the stock fender to make plenty of clearance:
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/cutrearfender.jpg

Mounting the rears (the bumper is not all the way on):
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/widebody.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/widebody6.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/widebody7.jpg

The fronts:
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/widebody2.jpg

We also shaved the front turn signal holes.

Before:
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/allprimed2.jpg

After:
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/widebody3.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/widebody5.jpg

So that’s it for now. Hopefully the next update will include pictures of a painted car. I’m tired of looking at primer grey...

[MisawaJason]

all I see are door pics

[noname7198]

Pics should all be working now.

[heavenboundkevin]

nice build man, much props, im just posting so i can come back to this later. Best of luck.

[Monooxide]

The end tags that are [IMG] need to be tags with a / in front of IMG. Like this [/IMG ]

[turboh224g]

In case you think all we have been working on is the body I just want to give a quick update on the second motor. I am still in the buying phase of things. Currently we have a blacktop s13 block and head. stock crank, pistons and rods. ARP headstuds, mainstuds and rod bolts. Cometic HG. BC 272 cams, springs, and titanium retainers. Greddy oil pan, S15 oil pump. Working on custom SS top mount for GT2871R ( have ) or GT3071R ( looking at ). Still need PFC, 700+cc injectors ( working on custom top mount rail ). We hope to have tis motor in the car by mid season. A lot depends on the paycheck and driver ability. We will see.
JKP

[CamryOnBronze]

Awesome build, keep it up!

[forum04pl]

Its come a long way. Is this going to be seen driving in the MA area by any chance? If so I would love to check it out.

[noname7198]

If there are any drift events in the MA area this year, then it should be there. I haven't heard of anything planned for this year, but if anybody knows of something going on I'd love to take the car out to as many events as I can get to.

[DCP94]

beautiful build...nice job

[TacoDelRio]

Top stuff. Good to see a DIY oriented track build!

[PoorMans180SX]

I've never really been a fan of shaving the body line, but props on the clean, good bodywork. I do kinda like the shaved marker lamps and such though.

[rexify]

awesome build

[Grip]

hands down a fucken amazing thread.. all i want to know is whether you guys have been to wyo tech or not..

[turboh224g]

Neither of us have had any sort of formal training. Jamie did take an autoshop at his highschool where they taught him how to chang oil and brakes but not much else. We have both worked on several other projects before this and learned a lot from just doing things by ourselves. It also helps when you have forums like zilvia so if you run into something you aren't familiar with you just ask and someone out there has done it and has suggestions. Later,
JKP

[adammmmmm]

This thread/car has inspired me to get off my ass and put the parts that have accrued on my car, get it running and driving.

brilliant work, keep it up and thanks for the kick in the butt.:spank:

[noname7198]

I took autobody classes at night when I was in high school. I also took auto shop in high school and learned the basics there.

I mostly just learned by doing. Taking things apart and putting them back together. Whatever I want to do, I research it online then jump in and try it.

[noname7198]

The car is finally painted! I spent last Thursday and Friday wet sanding and masking, then Saturday we painted. I decided to use a single stage because I thought it would be easier to work with and touch up when I hit things. I've sprayed several cars before this, a couple base clears and one 3 stage, but this single stage was the most difficult I've ever worked with. It took a while to get the gun set up and was tough to get it to lay a consistent, even color. I did the doors first and was still playing with the gun so they didn't come out that great. We will be re-spraying them. Everything else came out pretty good. Some imperfections and dust, but after we color sand and buff it should look great.

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/primer2.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/primer3.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/primer1.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint1-1.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint3-1.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint5-1.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint6-1.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint10-1.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint9-1.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint7-1.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint2-1.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/paint8-1.jpg

The color is called intense blue pearl. Jason is going to re-paint the doors this weekend and then we will put the car back together in 2-3 weeks when I can get back down there.


edit: 3/1

Jason repainted the doors yesterday. He also did the valve covers. Everythings looking good.

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/repainted.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/valvecover.jpg

[Landers]

Looks great man, giving me inspiration to finish my car.


You really need to post up on www.D-faction.com (http://www.D-faction.com)

Western MA based drifting forum. Events planned for this year.

[HPballer76]

wow very nice! i just read through all 6 pages. awesome build.

[turboh224g]

Still working on getting all the parts for the second motor, hope to get the block to the machine shop soon. Now have power fc d-jetro and gt3071r. Still need injectors, rail, ras, the time to assemble and of course tunning from R/T. Matt thinks the setup should easily make 400whp but we really want to keep things conservative, I would be happy with 325+. After all they are my motors and we are a privately funded team. Later,
JKP

[Jmac39]

Lookin good.. :rawk:

[drifterken]

dammm all that work came out nice.. makes me wanna pull all my shit apart and re do everything... :D looking good!!

[noname7198]

The car is finally back together... Almost.

Tinted lights:

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/lights1.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/lights3.jpg

I finally got wheels in the correct size. The huge sidewall on these tires raised the car about an inch, so don't mind the ride height. Originally I wanted black wheels, but the white is kinda growing on me.

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/reassembled.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/reassembled2.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/reassembled3.jpg
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/reassembled4.jpg

Those are the only pics we have right now because we can't drive the car. It sounds like a bad starter so as soon as we get a new one we'll get the car outside and pic-whore the crap out of it.

[Wabash9000]

that paint with that headlight color looks absolutely perfect.

[The_Doctor]

Amazing build. My jaw was dropped the entire time I read this...
up until the yellow headlights. But to each his own. :P

[noname7198]

Last week we got our P.S.I. Racing coil pack covers and stickers in:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_1442.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/000_0006.jpg

Last Saturday was the first Clubloose event of the year. It only took us 15 months, but the car was actually ready to drive. We worked on it until 11 pm Friday night, but did manage to get loaded up and ready to go. Then Saturday at 7 am it was pouring rain. Luckily, they still had the event (thanks Clubloose).

When we stripped the car Jason thought we needed to remove the wipers and wiper motor to save 1.5 pounds. Unfortunately we didn't get new ones before this event... Yeah. I drove the car in the pouring rain with no wipers or defrost.

Driving to the track:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/0901.jpg

About to go for the first run:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0008.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0019.jpg

Back in line:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0025.jpg

Still in one piece ready for another run:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0027.jpg

More on track pics:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0029.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0032.jpg

I wish we got the whole "Sorry RAINED OUT" sign in the background:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0033.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0036.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0037.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0046.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0048.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0049.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0052.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0063.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0064.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0065.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0081.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0115.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0116.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0119.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0120.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0121.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0122.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0126.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0127.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0134.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0136.jpg

And of course the sun came out as soon as we left:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0149.jpg

All in all it was a good day. We're still working on the new motor and I'm looking into new suspension. Obviously the thing I need most is more seat time...

[LAWL]

That's not a track car that's a drift car. I'm not gonna lie, I'm pretty let down by this thread title.

Nice color combo though. It looked best with the white wheels.

[kognition]

Well, you have to start somewhere right? Good effort. Looong waay to go.
I will say that you need to get a body kit that has less drag than the one you have. Lots of air gaps everywhere. But good effort. :bow:

[slider2828]

Can you explain air gaps kognition?

[kognition]

They are actually more like appendages. The rear lower section behind the rear wheels is air drag city. The front not as bad, but not a big deal unless you are hitting over 100mph. But that does look like a drifting body kit. And alot of drag takes place up in the front where the openings are on the bumper. The smaller the better. And an I.C. does not need nearly as large an opening as you might think. More and more of my focus with the time attack teams revolves around drag or parasitic drag at speeds above 150mph. That's when orders of magnitude start to take a toll on a track car with regard to wind drag.

Can you explain air gaps kognition?

[Ali 556]

Nice,

But 1 point ...you could have used the turn signal ducts for Oil and P/S system coolers,,,

Some ducting and a 3'' piping will work wonders for P/s cooler...(driver side).

On psg side use 2X oil cooolers on on the vent in the bumber and one in the vent in the turn signal

hope this help,

A

[s13 @ fullboost]

This thread is pure sex

[pikachu]

great work, great car, a great coupe transformation

[IIxOATxII]

im jealous no lie

[Steve Lloyd]

Is your fuel cell legal?? I don't see the FIA-FT3 cert on it. What kind is it??

[noname7198]

I'm not sure what you mean by legal? It passes tech at the track. It's made by RCI.

[winter]

Nice effort guys but the paint looks sketch; it looks like you need to lay down more coats? any close up shots of the car? The car looked awesome with the white wheels on it...love the yellow headlights. Nice fab work too.


The track you drifted at looked rough; I saw a lot of debris on the ground, in addition the rain must have sucked...

Nice build overall...keep up the work..

[noname7198]

Sorry it's been so long since the last update. Not much has changed on the car, but I have some pictures from our last event. Unfortunately the only run we got pictures of was when I spun out.

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0001.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0003.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0004.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0005.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0006.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0007.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0009.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0010.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0011.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0013.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0014.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0015.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0016.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0017.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0018.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0020.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0021.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0022.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0023.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0024.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0027-1.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0028.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0029-1.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/DSC_0030.jpg

Also a really short, soundless video:

YouTube - Chris Diamond (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DweIDP6lusw)

Aside from a coolant line exploding (one of the annoying ones under the intake manifold) the car ran great. Unfortunately I haven't found any more events around here this year, so it looks like we're going to be starting on the top mount manifold soon. We got some flanges cut out of 1/2" stainless and got the collector tacked up. The next step is to take some measurements and make a jig to hold the flanges so we can weld the runners. It'll probably be a few more weeks before we actually get to work on this, so I'll post more detailed pictures then.

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0455.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0456.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0457.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0460.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0461.jpg

[Ceepo]

just skimmed thru the pictures, awesome build, car looks great!!!!

[PoorMans180SX]

Car needs lots more lower and BIG spacers or different wheels. A shame to have such a sick build with a car that lacks good wheel fitment you know?

[noname7198]

Those are my old wheels. I was just using those with the stock motor. I have 17x9 +15 and 17x10 +12 sitting in the garage waiting to go on along with the gt3071r...

[godrifttoday]

So how much power u have at the momment?

[noname7198]

I haven't dyno'd this car, but I would guess around 200 whp. It's a stock redtop at 9 psi.

[PoorMans180SX]

The white ones? Looks good in the front but could use a spacer in the rear.

Any chance you'll lower it more?

Sorry man, not trying to hate or anything, the car itself is great, I never thought I would like yellow headlights, but they look good. And the build is top notch.

[turboh224g]

We are probably going to lower the car more at some point. We are eventually going to upgrade to some nice PBM parts but we have to wait until the budget will allow. Right now the big motor is #1 on our list. The 10 inch wheels fit pretty well with the overfenders. We do not want to run spacers because of the additional stress added to everything in the drive line. The car is fully stitch welded and stiff as hell so we don't want to risk breaking anything just to have the wheels look better.
JKP

[noname7198]

We started getting ready to fab up the manifold. We are making a stainless top mount for the gt3071r turbo.
We started by bolting on a head flange and taking some measurements for the turbo flange (the steel flanges are only being used for mock up, stainless will be used on the actual manifold).
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0470.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0471.jpg

Then we set the turbo flange and welded supports to hold it in place.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0473.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0474.jpg

We bolted on the turbo and everything looks good so far.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0475.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0476.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0479.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0480.jpg

The next step is to make a jig and fab up the runners.

[s14unimog]

What a project; looks like you have some awesome fabrication skills. I guess if I had to offer any criticism it would be about that V-mount. Why not do a liquid to air cooler if you were going to go all out like that... As terrible as my reason sounds, once I get over my love for a big front mount, I'm going to do a water-air system on mine. They're just better, hands down.

[noname7198]

I realize it’s been almost a year since our last update. My excuse is that I moved to california for a couple months and when I came back I just drove the car and fixed it when it broke. Here’s a quick recap of 2010:

January through March 2010: I was in CA. Car sat with a leaking sr.

April: I drove 2800 miles from San Diego to Philly in 2.5 days, spent the next two days getting the car ready, swapping in a new SR and installing a K-sport hydraulic hand brake. We literally started the car for the first time Friday around 5pm and finished bleeding the brakes at Maple Grove Saturday morning before taking the car out for it’s first drift event of the season.

Crappy vid of the maple grove event and some pics:

YouTube - Chris Diamond 4/24/10 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrEkR2bw44Q)

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/Drift%20Car/get-attachmentaspx_2.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/Drift%20Car/4556493308_a29d8453db.jpg


In May, at ECB, I slid of track and ran over my front bumper, so that’s missing in most of the pics. I spent the rest of the year driving and breaking stuff.

In June we finally put the bigger fn’s on with spacers and got an alignment at RT Tuning.

Looks so much better:
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0705.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0702.jpg

Overall the car ran much better this year. Had some issues with over heating early in the year. Replaced the radiator with a new one from megan racing and haven’t had a problem since. I broke 3 cheap toe arms so I replaced all the suspension arms with PBM stuff. I don’t have any pics of that install, but I’m sure we’ll get some up later.
This is a straight cheap toe arm, the 2nd cheap ebay one that almost cracked in half, and the pbm arm for comparison:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0744.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/IMG_0745.jpg


The last event I did was at the Allentown Expo center at a BMW show. Not my finest moment:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/65238_435242973147_527358147_5286429_2675331_n.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/44964_435243088147_527358147_5286436_5295994_n.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/39534_435243203147_527358147_5286439_652884_n.jpg

Basically I hit a curb and landed in a ditch. Ripped off the body kit, broke another toe rod, bent the quarter panel in a couple inches, and a coolant line tore when the motor slammed back into the firewall. This happened on the first turn of my first run, so we were able to get it back together enough to get it back out there. My shot at redemption:

YouTube - M2U00012.MPG (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LM4E_zoOmlQ)

The front right wheel was shaking pretty bad after that too. I replaced all the adjustable arms with PBM parts and now the car is at RT Tuning getting knuckles (more angle) and an alignment.

So that’s about it. We’re going to start a new thread for the winter rebuild (probably gonna wait until we actually start the rebuild). The plan is a new motor, gt3071r, and, thanks to ChaserAero, a new body kit and hood. I’m sure there will be some other changes to come as well.


Some pics from this season:

Drift Car pictures by noname7198 - Photobucket (http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j12/noname7198/Drift%20Car/)

And a couple videos:

May night moves:

YouTube - Night Moves 5/26/10 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4R9SFSetJ0)

September Freedom Moves:

YouTube - Freedom Moves (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VYt4I1dJLk)

[wannabdr1ftr]

cant wait to see the rebuild

[BoostSlideWayz]

this is a cool build.. im building my drift car but unfortunately i dont have any source of welding or know anyone that welds. i wish i could seam weld my chassis but thats probably not gonna happen.. i think the previous owner crashed my car cuz i noticed the left side of the subframe has alittle bent peice thats not even welded to the chassis.. so idk how ima get that fixed lol.

[turboh224g]

I did all of the fab and 90% of the welding on this car. I am mostly self taught. I had some help from a buddy that took some classes at a tech school and helped with the basics. After that is was playing around until I figured it out. The Miller I use was only like $600 plus a mask and bottle. If you ask me it is the best investment you will make. If you are an enthusiast and likely to stay in the sport just learn how to do it yourself. When you fuck up ask someone here what you are doing wrong and than do it again. Welding is not rocket science but it is incredibly usefull.
JKP

[bardabe]

Bro looks like you are having fun with your car and honestly that's what it's all about. so from me you get two big thumbs up!

[noname7198]

This will be the last update before the rebuild starts.

Here’s a couple shots of the PBM suspension arms installed and the RT Tuning knuckles:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/newarms.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/newarms2.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/knuckles1.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/knuckles2.jpg


Club Loose is awesome and decided to put on an end of the year clinic, so I got a chance to try out the new knuckles. This was my favorite event of the year. I got a lot of help from some really great drivers and got a lot more comfortable in the car. This was also my first attempt at tandem drifting. Here’s a couple pics and a video from the clinic:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/149253_157293014313500_101723283203807_275403_7405 190_n.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/148435_157293180980150_101723283203807_275411_3557 566_n.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/novclubloose492.jpg


YouTube - ClubLoose Clinic 2010 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40yh60EuQbU)


You may have noticed in the video that the back of my car is a little banged up. Basically the guy in front of me spun and since I’m a noob my natural reaction was to slam on the brakes. That left the guy behind me with no where to go and this happened:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_0732.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_0737.jpg


So now it’s time to tear it down and start the rebuild

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_0758.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/turboh224g/IMG_0757.jpg

[turboh224g]

I asked Jamie for one thing before the last event "Please don't completely destroy the car before the winter". As you can see he didn't listen. Oh well. At least I have a couple of months to get it back together. Bigger crash bars are definately a must. See ya next season.
JKP

[noname7198]

This thread kinda died when I actually started driving the car. I'm not going to update here anymore, but I started a new thread in the chat section to show what we're doing this Winter. Check it out and let us know what you think.


http://zilvia.net/f/chat/360611-drift-car-winter-rebuild.html#post3809732

[HPKMotorsports3]

sweet build man... it was shock and awe the whole time reading this great work

[SaVAgES14]

What ever happened to this build?

[GorditoBlanco]

^^^^

This thread kinda died when I actually started driving the car. I'm not going to update here anymore, but I started a new thread in the chat section to show what we're doing this Winter. Check it out and let us know what you think.


http://zilvia.net/f/chat/360611-drift-car-winter-rebuild.html#post3809732


^ That's why this thread is not updated.

[Pinggg]

What ever happened to this build?

:stupid: but seriously why bring up a old thread..