High 14sec NA KA

[Shift_Dr1ft]

I would like to build a high 14sec NA ka24de and still be able to pass smog. I was wondering if these parts would get me there: injen intake, 2.5 cat-back exhaust, headers, crank pulley, flywheel, 3" cat, and brian crower cams. I have read through NA builds but they mostly dont pass smog. I have read through Bigvinnie's thread but he doesnt have 1/4 mile time.

[Nismoknightska-t]

you can always add a 100 shot:2f2f:

[louisdaboois]

headwork is key. bigger valves, stronger springs, porting and polishing, also big ass cams.... also super high compression pistons for the bottom end and a better flowing intake manifold... that'll be a basic na build. use factory exhaust parts mostly... get a 3" remote cutout at the dp. and open it up at the track only. hehe.

[jussjepbrox]

that also keeps the sleeper exhaust look so cops wontgive u a ticket for modified exhaust well if u live in cali,also
gut as much as you can,

headwork is key. bigger valves, stronger springs, porting and polishing, also big ass cams.... also super high compression pistons for the bottom end and a better flowing intake manifold... that'll be a basic na build. use factory exhaust parts mostly... get a 3" remote cutout at the dp. and open it up at the track only. hehe.

[Shift_Dr1ft]

nah I am cool with nos, this is a DD car it need to be reliable. Doing the internals seems to be my best bet but i want to see if i can reach high 14 sec with all the bolt ons with safc2. My main point is to pass smog, cali. I am just looking to be quick not fast.

[jskateborders]

Focus less on power and more on everything else.
Drive train, tires, suspension, weight reduction, ect.

[16 yr old drftr]

Focus less on power and more on everything else.
Drive train, tires, suspension, weight reduction, ect.

and practice on driving skills. a fast car is nothing if you cant handle it.

[woohaa]

i have welded diff., toyo proxies, coilovers, cf hood, and stripped back. I am not looking for 1/4 quarter drag if some of u might be thinking. thanks.

[woohaa]

but i do decent times for stock KA, try those mods. if u have not got them yet.

[whiterps13]

woohaa, that post is worthless. Coilovers and a carbon fiber hood are going to do next to nothing to improve quarter mile times. The OP didnt ask for your mod list (however pathetic it might be).


On a more serious note, definately get some drag radials or full slicks. Even on a low-powered car (and every NA KA is considered low power), getting a consistant and solid launch can drastically help your times. Other than that, search for all NA KA build threads, this topic has been discussed so many times.

[Shift_Dr1ft]

well i am not looking to drag race my car, so i wont be getting slicks. Like i said i just want a quick dd car(i consider a high 14 sec car for dd is quick enough for me). I have searched through the NA builds but most dont have 1/4 times so i dont know if i should follow the build also being able to pass smog which most of their builds dont pass smog.

[Shift_Dr1ft]

maybe i guess i am just asking for too much? i guess you can have both being quick and passing smog. haha

[projectRDM]

I'm not a drag racer and never will be, but back in the day we'd go run the track once in a while out of sheer boredom. My car at the time weighed 2520lbs, S14 SE with sunroof, heavily lightened. Mods were:

Short intake, relocated to battery location
Hotshot header
S13 cams
UR pulley
Aluminum flywheel
Aluminum driveshaft
HKS Twin Power ignition
JWT ECU
Greddy PE exhaust

Dyno'ed at 159rwhp.

Car ran it's best time of [email protected], traction limited because the suspension was stiff as a rail. I think it's possible to break into the high 14s with a good set of tires, soft rear springs, and a little more power, but by that point you've spent a shit load of money already. All my emissions equipment was tossed, so factor that in too. Again I'm not a drag racer, I hit the rev limiter a lot, didn't catch the light just right. That was also like 8 years ago.

[Addicted2Kouki]

Talk to BigVinnie. As in PM him. He's ALL about his street legal NA build. Dont just skim thru a thread.

[Shift_Dr1ft]

thanks projectrdm, i will look into that setup.
addicted2kouki, i think i will do that.

[NiGHTS]

gearing is the biggest thing for good 1/4 mile times.

[BigVinnie]

I'm not a drag racer and never will be, but back in the day we'd go run the track once in a while out of sheer boredom. My car at the time weighed 2520lbs, S14 SE with sunroof, heavily lightened. Mods were:

Short intake, relocated to battery location
Hotshot header
S13 cams
UR pulley
Aluminum flywheel
Aluminum driveshaft
HKS Twin Power ignition
JWT ECU
Greddy PE exhaust

Dyno'ed at 159rwhp.

Car ran it's best time of [email protected], traction limited because the suspension was stiff as a rail. I think it's possible to break into the high 14s with a good set of tires, soft rear springs, and a little more power, but by that point you've spent a shit load of money already. All my emissions equipment was tossed, so factor that in too. Again I'm not a drag racer, I hit the rev limiter a lot, didn't catch the light just right. That was also like 8 years ago.

I made 162WHP with half that Bull shit listed, and stock timing. JWT ecu's suck unless you specifically tell them how you want it tuned. Other than that they will only tune to a safe minumum by barely changing the fuel MAP, and barely changing ignition as well. I pretty much proved that by using an SAFC.N60 MAF makes a huge difference as it changes your RPM choke point from 5800RPM to 6500RPM.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/BigVinnie/PeakHPMustangDyno.jpg
I even started a thread if anyone has questions.

[projectRDM]

I made 162WHP with half that Bull shit listed, and stock timing. JWT ecu's suck unless you specifically tell them how you want it tuned. Other than that they will only tune to a safe minumum by barely changing the fuel MAP, and barely changing ignition as well. I pretty much proved that by using an SAFC.N60 MAF makes a huge difference as it changes your RPM choke point from 5800RPM to 6500RPM.


I didn't know this was a pissing match, and I sure wasn't trying to impress anyone, I was just adding to the thread since the OP was looking for ideas. That car is long gone and most of that 'bullshit' was done back in 1998. If you're going to take it so offensively, maybe you should take some pills or something.

[BigVinnie]

I didn't know this was a pissing match, and I sure wasn't trying to impress anyone, I was just adding to the thread since the OP was looking for ideas. That car is long gone and most of that 'bullshit' was done back in 1998. If you're going to take it so offensively, maybe you should take some pills or something.


Definitely not a pissing match but to say the best one you have seen or driven with light mods was only 159WHP is somewhat an understatement. Theres guy's out here in Cali Pushing over that 159WHP mark and I happen to be one of them. I shouldn't brag either because 3 WHP isn't a huge deal.
The one thing that I have hated about the forums in general are people that can some what underdog an engine to make it look like a piece of crap. Really the KA can easily make 170WHP with bolt ons and the right tuning. My engine is missing out on 8 more WHP just from the crappy paper filter, timing settings, and the fact that I use a 2.5" exhaust rather than a 3". Not to mention I can probably enhance the engine for another 7WHP by cracking open the oil pan and grinding the girdle off to just leave it for mains with out unbolting the crank shaft at all. there are so many free mods and not removing the smog emissions shows that there is great potential for this engine.

Sorry wasn't attacking you I'll take some muscle relaxers and a celexa or something.

[JoeC1982]

which header has the best durability, power, and fit for the KA? i was looking at the dc sports as i haven't seen the hot shots for sale anywhere lately.

[BigVinnie]

which header has the best durability, power, and fit for the KA? i was looking at the dc sports as i haven't seen the hot shots for sale anywhere lately.


Mine is a DC sports, it's dyno proven and if you need the exemption for smog, all you have to do is FAX or mail a copy of your receipt toAEM/DC sports to get the exemption sticker.

[JoeC1982]

smog? we don't even have inspection, lol. thanks for the info though.

[norcal_black240]

Its highly possible to get into high 14's on a dohc S13. Friend has a S13 with header, test pipe, exhaust, aem intake, advanced timing, diff from a R32 and he ran a 15.1 at the track and he had the back seats and spare tire taken out of the back.

Ive also seen stock dohc S13's run mid 15's.

I think with the mods listed below if your a decent driver you should be able to consistantly hit the high 14's in a n/a KA without doing high comp pistons, port and polishing, etc.

good tires with right pressure in tire
minor weight reduction
aem intake
hotshot header
test pipe
exhaust
vlsd of some sort
good clutch and lightweight flywheel
1 piece driveshaft
advanced timing
Jwt camshafts
Jwt cam gears

[projectRDM]

Definitely not a pissing match but to say the best one you have seen or driven with light mods was only 159WHP is somewhat an understatement. Theres guy's out here in Cali Pushing over that 159WHP mark and I happen to be one of them. I shouldn't brag either because 3 WHP isn't a huge deal.
The one thing that I have hated about the forums in general are people that can some what underdog an engine to make it look like a piece of crap. Really the KA can easily make 170WHP with bolt ons and the right tuning. My engine is missing out on 8 more WHP just from the crappy paper filter, timing settings, and the fact that I use a 2.5" exhaust rather than a 3". Not to mention I can probably enhance the engine for another 7WHP by cracking open the oil pan and grinding the girdle off to just leave it for mains with out unbolting the crank shaft at all. there are so many free mods and not removing the smog emissions shows that there is great potential for this engine.

Sorry wasn't attacking you I'll take some muscle relaxers and a celexa or something.

You say you're not attacking me, but you just did it again. Where did I say "the best one I have seen or driven with light mods was only 159WHP"? And how did I underdog my engine, to make it look like a "a piece of crap"? It was my car, my personal experience. I never said it was the fastest, most powerful, or best built KA. I simply added to the thread. I don't think muscle relaxers can help you at this point.

[markyboi]

My engine is missing out on 8 more WHP just from the crappy paper filter, timing settings, and the fact that I use a 2.5" exhaust rather than a 3".

wanna trade for my 3" exhaust for your 2.5" exhaust?

[dragon_x330]

Buy Brian Crowers new fully counterweighted crank:boink: , build the head, higher compression pistons, forge the block, ITB's (so you can take advantage of the new higher revving engine thanks to the counterweighted crank) etc etc etc. I remember seeing somebody here on Zilvia with a KA24DE with JWT Cams and ITB's and he hit around 180 hp if I remember correctly.

[JoeC1982]

forge the block? good luck with that one.

[jussjepbrox]

you can always add a 100 shot:2f2f:this is true my homie put 100 shot on a KA.E, 3inch exhaust, msd and welded diff and raped the shit outta mustangs n camaros not sure if he took it to the track

[Ineedparts]

I ran a 15.4 with just intake and exhaust. Its a 91. You should be able to hit high 14's with some head work and cams easy....

[BigVinnie]

forge the block, ITB's (so you can take advantage of the new higher revving engine thanks to the counterweighted crank) etc etc etc.

ITB's are horrible to tune for an all weather environment.

Also what the hell do you mean by forge the block?
How do you forge cast iron which in fact only becomes stronger to high heat temperature?

Square decking would of sounded a lot better and can yield 3~5whp, it balances out each cylinder.

[BigVinnie]

wanna trade for my 3" exhaust for your 2.5" exhaust?

What brand exhaust? Mine is custom mandrel bent, with a Magna Flow muffler.

[LA_phantom_240]

Vinnie, I thought you had a Pacesetter?

[HKSdrift3r]

rofl, Bigvinnie pwns this thread!! Great guy with a huge amount of knowledge regarding the KA and its potentials!

[punxva]

search Derrik Greaser, and his... and you'll see the potential, not attacking vinnie because he knows his shit, but on the east coast we have one that broke 200 NA

[NightfireFC3S]

product rdm said ... [email protected] & he made 159rwhp ... using s13 cams, header, UD pulley, ignition, alum flywheel & driveshaft, ecu & exhaust ...


I'd do ...
Shorty Intake
Header
Take your high-flow cat & muffler of choice to a muffler shop (2.25 or 2.5" pipe) if it wont pass smog use an electric air pump like the vette
272/272 cam setup w/ gears (adjust for stock ecu)
Aluminum Flywheel & a new Clutch of choice (spec rocks)
If you got extra $$$ do your ignition stuff

Last but not least ... LSD rear end (you may have already) and do 4.30 ring & pinon ... will help your acceleration at the cost of top speed.

Good tires & a decent set of shocks/springs.

For high 14's you shouldn't even have to mess with internals besides the cams.

w00t! my first post ...

[ThE_BoMB]

It shouldnt be too hard to hit high 14s without some headwork. I ran a 15.4 with a bone stock 91 ka24de (and some bloody slow shifting). 4 degrees (YES retarded by 14 degrees, shops fault not mine.). Also had a slipping clutch and a bad 3rd gear syncro.

Im running light pulley, steel driveshaft, 6 puck, dc sports headers, safc 2 tune, injen intake, msd ignition, hlsd, and a decked head (so probably a bit of more compression over stock.). and 17 degrees of timing. I swap my cat conv in when I need to aircare I run a custom 2.5" cat all the way back to a hks hi power tip.

[SILVIA_KIDs14.5]

I would like to build a high 14sec NA ka24de and still be able to pass smog. I was wondering if these parts would get me there: injen intake, 2.5 cat-back exhaust, headers, crank pulley, flywheel, 3" cat, and brian crower cams. I have read through NA builds but they mostly dont pass smog. I have read through Bigvinnie's thread but he doesnt have 1/4 mile time.
this will be relitvely easy, seeing as the Ka already runs 15.6 sec stock in the 1/4 in an s14 and quicker if you have a s14de swap in the s13 best bet headers back head work like prevous statement possibley methonal injection cool the internals and go high compression as stated before def a must also stroke a bore is alwasy an option
stroker kit ka26de
http://www.braincrower.com/makes/nissan/ka24de.shtml

[punxva]

also you can run an s14 exhaust manifold and sr downpipe, test pipe and 3in exhaust and it'll get you some more power

[WagDatto]

14 second KA? Put a stock KA in a datsun, toss a cold air intake on there, some free flowing exhaust, de-smog the block (pre smog car), and start running low 14's/high 13's!

[trsilvias13]

take out the KA and put it in the trunk, swap in a ls1.. Probably hit 12's.

KA NA aren't that powerful. You can try to hit 200+whp, but there only a few in the world that does - Robello (SP) in the bay area can help you get high NA hp for the KA.

[629RWHPstang]

I didn't know this was a pissing match, and I sure wasn't trying to impress anyone, I was just adding to the thread since the OP was looking for ideas. That car is long gone and most of that 'bullshit' was done back in 1998. If you're going to take it so offensively, maybe you should take some pills or something.



lolololooool

[KA24DESOneThree]

Modified S13
Weight: 2250lbs.
Horsepower: 170 crank, ~150 wheel.
Power to weight: 15lbs/hp

E36 M3
Weight: 3100lbs
Horsepower: 240 crank, ~195 wheel
Power to weight: 15.9lbs/hp
Quarter mile: ~14.3sec at 98mph

That's the comparison I draw.

[azndan2]

LOL at this post!

Definitely not a pissing match...

Sorry wasn't attacking you I'll take some muscle relaxers and a celexa or something.

i am very happy that you have been able to build a fast KA that is street legal

[98koukile]

NA KA ftl, if you wanna dump a ton of money into the KA go for it, its a fun little motor, but if you want your dollars to go farther, boost the bitch, if you really know your car you can spend 2 weekends everytime you need to switch it back for smog

[BigVinnie]

Vinnie, I thought you had a Pacesetter?

That was yearrsssssss ago.......

[Risu2112]

14 sec street legal NA/KA is going to be very difficult and/or expensive.. It's very difficult to stroke the KA.. I notice a lot of people seem to be actually de-stroking their NA/KA's to like a 2.3 to help out with the revs & powerband making the car faster over all.

Visual you'll be fine, but without weight reduction and slicks you're going to need like 225ish HP to get mid 14's, thats a pretty huge increase over factory and will almost certainly cause problems with your emissions, Also you would be talking about such a drastic rebuild it might be cost effective and easier to pass smog with an LS1 swap >.>

</echo>
good luck though!

[BigVinnie]

NA KA ftl, if you wanna dump a ton of money into the KA go for it, its a fun little motor, but if you want your dollars to go farther, boost the bitch, if you really know your car you can spend 2 weekends everytime you need to switch it back for smog

That was an ignorant response. Boosting an engine doesn't benefit the money you lose at the gas pumps when you wide open throttle the S.O.B.
Turbo charged engines are more expensive to maintain than basic bolt ons would get for natural aspiration. Claiming boost is the answer to anyones problem is just pure ignorance.

So in any case in the long run, you spend more money in turboed engines, at the gas pump and for add ons such as inter cooling, injectors, fuel pump, yadda yadda yadda. You wanna add boost start adding more octane too, unless your inter cooler is big enough and your tune are excellent in being pig rich with alot of retard.
Last I recall any (LEGAL) EPA approved turbo engine is double the cost, legality has alot to do with the engine you would be selecting.

[BigVinnie]

14 sec street legal NA/KA is going to be very difficult and/or expensive.. It's very difficult to stroke the KA.. I notice a lot of people seem to be actually de-stroking their NA/KA's to like a 2.3 to help out with the revs & powerband making the car faster over all.

Visual you'll be fine, but without weight reduction and slicks you're going to need like 225ish HP to get mid 14's, thats a pretty huge increase over factory and will almost certainly cause problems with your emissions, Also you would be talking about such a drastic rebuild it might be cost effective and easier to pass smog with an LS1 swap >.>

</echo>
good luck though!


Where are you getting this nonsence from? I have a little over $1000 spent on my KA and can easily break into the high 14's. With better traction probably mid 14's. I onlyhave 162 to the wheels thats about 202HP to the crank.

Secondly who do you know personally that has destroked a KA?
What is the Crank and rod combination that you would be using?
In any sence the only thing close to destroking is using a 2.2 litre NAPS block with the KADE truck head, thats it in a nutshell and thats not a KA, thats a NAPSZ hybrid.

Also stop inferring the LS-1 swap as being an obviously good swap to chose from , half those swaps aren't state ref legal, and the fact is it will still cost well over 10 grand once you start figuring all your drive train parts. Not to mention I know people with the LS-1 swaps that are selling them because it's not street friendly, the torque on that engine is insane for the little s chassis.

[Risu2112]

Where are you getting this nonsence from? I have a little over $1000 spent on my KA and can easily break into the high 14's. With better traction probably mid 14's. I onlyhave 162 to the wheels thats about 202HP to the crank.

Secondly who do you know personally that has destroked a KA?
What is the Crank and rod combination that you would be using?
In any sence the only thing close to destroking is using a 2.2 litre NAPS block with the KADE truck head, thats it in a nutshell and thats not a KA, thats a NAPSZ hybrid.

Also stop inferring the LS-1 swap as being an obviously good swap to chose from , half those swaps aren't state ref legal, and the fact is it will still cost well over 10 grand once you start figuring all your drive train parts. Not to mention I know people with the LS-1 swaps that are selling them because it's not street friendly, the torque on that engine is insane for the little s chassis.

without weight reduction and slicks you're going to need like 225ish HP to get mid14's


Risu: "~225hp without weight reduction or traction improvements ~= mid 14's @ the 1/4 mile"

Bigvinnie: "202hp + traction improvements ~= Mid 14's @ the 1/4 mile"

By the transitive property I will suggest;
(whatever weight reduction you have) + (whatever traction upgrades you're talking about) ~= 23 horse power on the drag strip.

I don't think that's very unreasonable. Furthermore if you got that for only 1000$ investment on your engine I question the longevity and emissions output of your car, both of which seemed important to the OP. I'm not telling any one not to do NA work on their KA's just my main concern would be stroking it since KA24's start out pretty undersquare, big diminishing returns on that and your revs and/or longevity will take a significant hit (or your bank account haha).

I only personally know one person with a destroked KA, but I don't consider him too bright, ^_^ He ended up boosting it after about a year or something any way though.

[BigVinnie]

Risu: "~225hp without weight reduction or traction improvements ~= mid 14's @ the 1/4 mile"

Bigvinnie: "202hp + traction improvements ~= Mid 14's @ the 1/4 mile"

By the transitive property I will suggest;
(whatever weight reduction you have) + (whatever traction upgrades you're talking about) ~= 23 horse power on the drag strip.

I don't think that's very unreasonable. Furthermore if you got that for only 1000$ investment on your engine I question the longevity and emissions output of your car, both of which seemed important to the OP. I'm not telling any one not to do NA work on their KA's just my main concern would be stroking it since KA24's start out pretty undersquare, big diminishing returns on that and your revs and/or longevity will take a significant hit (or your bank account haha).

I only personally know one person with a destroked KA, but I don't consider him too bright, ^_^ He ended up boosting it after about a year or something any way though.



Don't ever try to start a HP calculation on 1/4 mile times as a debate, that is the weakest debate ever.

Dude seriously get your head out of your ass.
You obviously haven't driven in a 6500 peak HP/RPM NA KA in your life. Your still on the level of do I keep my stock MAF or not.

Undersquare? WTF does that mean? Have you even payed attention to stroker engines in your life? A KA24 engine by any means, principles or definitions is a mild stroker, have you seen brian crower 2.6 strokers? Or Honda's K24a engines with a 99mm stroke!!! In all honesty man you don't know WTF you are talking about, since KA is nothing more than a modified L series engine... Do you know what the Fuck the Rod/stroke ratio's are of the CA16, CA18,L16,L18, and L20's? There all the same as KA just smaller!!!!
The whole key to increasing 1/4 mile time would be to extend your rev range, and add more grip. HP is a factor obviously but which would you rather have. Take for example X hp @5800RPM, or the same X hp at 6500 RPM. Your engine at the higher RPM range is spinning more revolutions per minute, that means the tires spin faster and are keeping a constant momentum!!!! If your engine makes peak HP at 5800 RPM which is common on stock KA's the momentum will start to slow down as the peak had ended early in the RPM range, this means the engine is gradually losing momentum and power while the valve train can still handle a good amount of rev to 7000RPM. Thats a whole entire 1200 RPM of power and revolution that the ka doesn't use under it's stock maf and ecu tuning.
So while you comment on your 2 cents and tell some guy to strip down his car and make it uglier than ever.
I will spit actual knowledge and information to the best of my ability of what really goes on because I've actually done it.

[Risu2112]

Don't ever try to start a HP calculation on 1/4 mile times as a debate, that is the weakest debate ever.

Dude seriously get your head out of your ass.
You obviously haven't driven in a 6500 peak HP/RPM NA KA in your life. Your still on the level of do I keep my stock MAF or not.

Undersquare? WTF does that mean? Have you even payed attention to stroker engines in your life? A KA24 engine by any means, principles or definitions is a mild stroker, have you seen brian crower 2.6 strokers? Or Honda's K24a engines with a 99mm stroke!!! In all honesty man you don't know WTF you are talking about, since KA is nothing more than a modified L series engine... Do you know what the Fuck the Rod/stroke ratio's are of the CA16, CA18,L16,L18, and L20's? There all the same as KA just smaller!!!!



The whole key to increasing 1/4 mile time would be to extend your rev range, and add more grip. HP is a factor obviously but which would you rather have. Take for example X hp @5800RPM, or the same X hp at 6500 RPM. Your engine at the higher RPM range is spinning more revolutions per minute, that means the tires spin faster and are keeping a constant momentum!!!! If your engine makes peak HP at 5800 RPM which is common on stock KA's the momentum will start to slow down as the peak had ended early in the RPM range, this means the engine is gradually losing momentum and power while the valve train can still handle a good amount of rev to 7000RPM. Thats a whole entire 1200 RPM of power and revolution that the ka doesn't use under it's stock maf and ecu tuning.
So while you comment on your 2 cents and tell some guy to strip down his car and make it uglier than ever.
I will spit actual knowledge and information to the best of my ability of what really goes on because I've actually done it.

Unfortunately for you, yes, I do know the stroke ratios.
CA16: Bore: 78mm Stroke 84mm Ratio: 0.929
CA18: Bore: 83mm Stroke 83.6mm Ratio: 0.996
KA24: Bore: 86mm Stroke:96mm Ratio: 0.896

So #1 you're incorrect on the specs of your engines, CA18's are almost perfectly square, CA16's are still significantly more square than KA's

And #2 even if it were the same ratio, You can't just scale up "stroke" without diminishing returns, the function engine stroke has on safe rev limit is actually quite taxing.

Since you don't seem to know what undersquare means so check out this link, it explains it pretty well along with the symptoms of oversquare and undersquare engines: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stroke_ratio

EDIT: Do you realize stroking an engine reduces the redline? It doesn't sound like it from your post since you keep talking about increasing your redline while you're defending stroking the engine...

[BigVinnie]

EDIT: Do you realize stroking an engine reduces the redline? It doesn't sound like it from your post since you keep talking about increasing your redline while you're defending stroking the engine...

I know what under square means. The KA rides a fine borderline from being undersquare. Really bad undersquare engines won't get crap for rev. For a 7000 RPM redline the KA does pretty good. It does even better than you think usig a half weighted crank which can cause more balancing and harmonic issues. If it only reved to lets say where it's stock peak power was at , at 5800 RPM then it would have a serious undersquare to where it will make a larger linear torque band rather than a nice rev happy HP band. I can agree to some extent that the ka's weak points are it's ring lands, not necessarily it's piston bore, or rod length. Which you seem to argue that the rod length and piston bore are both not as proportionate as they should be.
My point you missed is that there is already enough rev and power in the KA there is no need to destroke, people move up to add stroke (hence brian crower stroker).
If the KA was that undersquare from lets say the CA16 or CA18 Nissan wouldn't of used similar cam specs!

[NemeGuero]

Risu: "~225hp without weight reduction or traction improvements ~= mid 14's @ the 1/4 mile"

Bigvinnie: "202hp + traction improvements ~= Mid 14's @ the 1/4 mile"

By the transitive property I will suggest;
(whatever weight reduction you have) + (whatever traction upgrades you're talking about) ~= 23 horse power on the drag strip.

I don't think that's very unreasonable. Furthermore if you got that for only 1000$ investment on your engine I question the longevity and emissions output of your car, both of which seemed important to the OP. I'm not telling any one not to do NA work on their KA's just my main concern would be stroking it since KA24's start out pretty undersquare, big diminishing returns on that and your revs and/or longevity will take a significant hit (or your bank account haha).

I only personally know one person with a destroked KA, but I don't consider him too bright, ^_^ He ended up boosting it after about a year or something any way though.

riighhtt cuz turboing a KA has better longevity and reliability than NA mods..

and who the fuck is talking about stroking? Penis envy?

[Risu2112]

riighhtt cuz turboing a KA has better longevity and reliability than NA mods..

and who the fuck is talking about stroking? Penis envy?

Hey there E-thug, learn to read please before you go around neg reping people, Nowhere in my post do I say or even imply Turbo would be more reliable nor did I even suggest it as an alternative, All I said was $1000 invested in a 200+hp KA24 means you probably didn't build it to last.

[s13 drifta]

Hey there E-thug, learn to read please before you go around neg reping people, Nowhere in my post do I say or even imply Turbo would be more reliable nor did I even suggest it as an alternative, All I said was $1000 invested in a 200+hp KA24 means you probably didn't build it to last.

Are you serious, how can a $1000 in bolt ons be considered not built to last. Maybe if it had HC pistons, stroker, and agressive tunning it might not last as long, but bolt ons? If anything it will make you motor more reliable.

[Risu2112]

Are you serious, how can a $1000 in bolt ons be considered not built to last. Maybe if it had HC pistons, stroker, and agressive tunning it might not last as long, but bolt ons? If anything it will make you motor more reliable.

I'm assuming it's more than bolt ons because he said it was worth 202 HP, thats a pretty huge gain for just bolt ons don't you think? I know a lot of people with I/H/E KA's and they usually only get 10-15% gain off that, pretty characteristic responsiveness to other similar engines.

[s13 drifta]

I'm assuming it's more than bolt ons because he said it was worth 202 HP, thats a pretty huge gain for just bolt ons don't you think? I know a lot of people with I/H/E KA's and they usually only get 10-15% gain off that, pretty characteristic responsiveness to other similar engines.


Well bolt ons and mild tunning. 200chp is not very hard to acomplish with bolt ons and a little tunning. You obviously dont know the potentials of NA KAs.

[Risu2112]

Well bolt ons and mild tunning. 200chp is not very hard to acomplish with bolt ons and a little tunning. You obviously dont know the potentials of NA KAs.

I'm not even claiming to be the authority on NA KA's I looked into the NA builds for a while until my goals changed drastically and I bought my LS1. Just saying I haven't seen a KA gain like that without a more expensive rebuild, and that I don't think stroking it is a great idea for most applications haha :)

[s13 drifta]

I'm not even claiming to be the authority on NA KA's I looked into the NA builds for a while until my goals changed drastically and I bought my LS1. Just saying I haven't seen a KA gain like that without a more expensive rebuild, and that I don't think stroking it is a great idea for most applications haha :)

Yeah I wouldnt go with a stroker kit, but getting a full circle crank would definatly be a great option. If you do some searching you will see many na kas making 200chp and over with bolt ons and tunning.

[NemeGuero]

I'm not even claiming to be the authority on NA KA's I looked into the NA builds for a while until my goals changed drastically and I bought my LS1. Just saying I haven't seen a KA gain like that without a more expensive rebuild, and that I don't think stroking it is a great idea for most applications haha :)

hahaha, you're a silly fuck.

I can read just fine thanks. I quoted your post in my reply to give context to what I said.

It all came from you.

Don't talk about something you haven't done. You threw money at a problem you couldn't handle.

"Let's try to make some NA power from dis hur KA motor"
"wait, i dun sucked it all up"
"fuck it, LS time!"

leave the NA KA threads to the people that actually go through with it.

[98koukile]

Well I hope whoever neg repped me for calling the KA a motor got everyone else in the thread too, sorry its an "engine". And for anyone thinking I'm just a boost happy 240 owner, mines NA and I love it that way. I was just stating that dollar for hp, boost is the obvious winner. As for my second point, if you're staying NA for legal reason, like my car is OBDII, why not just make it legal for when you need a new sticker, its easy enough to swap parts out... or is that just part of the challenge? I'm not sure how other states are, but MA doesn't really care between smog checks

[BigVinnie]

hahaha, you're a silly fuck.


leave the NA KA threads to the people that actually go through with it.

That was my point exactly.
I was taught old tricks from the datsun L series owners back when I was young. I know how to magically pull lucky charms numbers out of the KA and it doesn't take alot of modifying. People that give up on this engine obviously didn't do there research or follow basic fundamentals. GT3 owners quote this engine as being the dominate engine in GT3.
So to hear options coming from people that don't really go through building with this engine just need to sit down, shut up and listen and let the guys that actually do, do all the talking.

[98koukile]

Modest much? haha. Pulling power out of a motor for the quarter mile isn't always doing internals and shit. A lightweight flywheel, driveshaft, rims, pulleys, electric fans, these are all things that will take a 15.1 car and pull a 14.8 out of it. If you want high revving though, leave the crank pulley alone, the extra weight is better at preventing resonance and vibration making it better for your bearing at those rpms. Being more into sprint cars than street cars there are infinite ways to make you faster, find the biggest rotating masses you can, and lighten them. You wanna be faster, cut your parasitic loss by 5%, and it's ok to count in oz's instead of lbs sometimes

[Risu2112]

hahaha, you're a silly fuck.

I can read just fine thanks. I quoted your post in my reply to give context to what I said.

It all came from you.

Don't talk about something you haven't done. You threw money at a problem you couldn't handle.

"Let's try to make some NA power from dis hur KA motor"
"wait, i dun sucked it all up"
"fuck it, LS time!"

leave the NA KA threads to the people that actually go through with it.

I said I "looked" into NA/KA I didn't end up investing any money in it because my power goals kept going up and ended around ~400ish

I still don't see any where in this thread where I said turbo charging the KA would be more reliable by the way. It's not even in the post you quoted...

[Omarius Maximus]

You need to build the head to the point where you can rev it to 8.5k and actually HOLD the power band up there. Once you do that, you'll be making decent power.

As far as power to weight goes, yeah, you can make a low hp car quick in the quarter mile if you shave tons of weight, but just keep in mind that the faster you go, the less it power/weight matters, and thats when aero and just pure horsepower starts taking over.

For example, my car weighs in a bit over 2600lbs, and I'm putting down 227whp. I can pull on a lot of heavier, higher horsepower cars down low, but when speeds aproach triple digits, they start pulling away. EVEN THOUGH I have a slightly better power/weight ratio.

Also you have to keep in mind that nowadays there are Camrys, and Accords that can do the quarter mile in the low 14 second range. It's a bit discouraging for NA ka guys.