DisEpyon
01-23-2008, 09:11 PM
I just got my first set of coilovers (kts) and Im trying to get the best out of it, all ive done so far was adjust ride height and going to take it for an alignment tomorrow.
Ive already read the installation part on there website.
One question that i have is after i get it aligned and say later on in the future i want it a little bit lower or higher with the same wheels because im not happy with the height, would i have to get it realigned?
Other question is after i get it aligned and i want to preload the springs, wont that affect the ride height and the alignment?
I found this on another forum, the user name is erioshi on (ToyotaNation), i didnt find much on here that goes into detail on adjustment. so i dug this up on another forum.
What do you guys think about this, or do you guys have any other important input for those of you that actually have some good knowledge on coilovers who go out and track or drift them?
Coilovers can be a pretty complicated mess, and getting a set dialed in can be a challenge. What's worse, if you get things wrong you can hurt your new coilovers and end up with awful cornering and ride quality. But that doesn't need to be the outcome.
Step 1: First you should probably set your damper adjusters (or ride stiffness adjusters) to full soft. This is just a starting point - we'll fix this later. Also set your camber adjustments to 0 degrees for now - again, we'll address this stuff later. Also set the preload rings (at the bottom of the spring) with 1/4 to 1/2 turn of preload - just enough that the springs won't wiggle and make noise when you try to move them back and fourth.
Step 2: Find out what the correct damper operating range is for you coilovers. There should be a set of measurements that describe some limits for where you can set the ride height adjusters for you car. The ride height is controlled by the cups and lock ring at the bottom of the dampers. I tend to use milimeters - they're fine enough to get things set right.
Step 3: Once you know the ride height range acceptable for your coilovers, go out and measure the distance from the center of your wheel to the top center of the fender on each corner of your car - write this down, you'll need it later.
Step 4: Pre-set your coilovers an acceptable setting for ride height (from the data in step 2) and then install them on your car. Write down the distance between the bottom of the spring on each coilover and the top of the cup - you'll need this later.
Step 5: Put the car back on the ground and re-measure the distances between the wheel center and the top center of each fender. Find the dififferences between the new values and the values from step 3. Write everything down.
Step 6: If there are any unequal differences between the measurements from step 2 and the measurements in step 5, jack the car back up. Use the spring-to-cup measurements from step 4 to figure out how much to move the ride height cups up or down as needed. Repeat this step until the car is flat (by flat I mean the change is equal at all four corners). After the car is flat, make additional changes by moving the cups up or down as needed to get the ride height you want. Personally I recomend keeping the car flat (changing the ride height equally).
Step 7: After all this work take the car to a GOOD speed shop that can cornerweight and align the car to your specs. If you don't know what specs to use, ask them - they should be able to help you out. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP! While Step 6 will make make the car look perfect, the handling will still be whacked - no exceptions.
Step 8: After the car comes back with your new cornerbalance and alignment it's time to work on ride quality. The goal is to use as little preload as possible. Since we started with the springs very lightly preloaded, we can increase the preload of the springs by 1/4 to 1/2 turn until the car achievies "minimum bounce" without getting too harsh. Adjust the front and rear individually and always make the same change to both sides. You may need to make several adjustments to both the front and rear to find the right balance and feel.
Step 9: It's damper time! Now it's time to start moving the "ride stiffness" adjusters up until the car's ride gets even better. Just go a click or two at a time, and once things feel good, try moving the fornt end and back end up and down individually until the car has the right feel and balance.
If this sounds like alot of work, you're right! But if you follow this procedure and the advise of a good speed shop for your alignment and cornerweighting you should end up with a car that handles and rides great. If the car still isn't perfect, the link above contains pointer for further adjustments by changing tire presures, alignment settings, ride heights (but then you may need to go back the speed shop for more cornerweighting), and sway bars.
And finally - Step 10: Get some seat time at driver's school, track day or HPDE! You car will now be MUCH faster than it was previously, and how it behaves in corners will also probably have changed - to learn those new limits get to an environment where you can safely and responsible explore them and enjoy your new found performance!
Good Luck!
The only trouble im having is the part where he talks about measuring to the middle of the fender? Do you just go out and find the mid point or guess it?
and i also got this from that thread http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm this helped alot on understanding
thanks, brent
Ive already read the installation part on there website.
One question that i have is after i get it aligned and say later on in the future i want it a little bit lower or higher with the same wheels because im not happy with the height, would i have to get it realigned?
Other question is after i get it aligned and i want to preload the springs, wont that affect the ride height and the alignment?
I found this on another forum, the user name is erioshi on (ToyotaNation), i didnt find much on here that goes into detail on adjustment. so i dug this up on another forum.
What do you guys think about this, or do you guys have any other important input for those of you that actually have some good knowledge on coilovers who go out and track or drift them?
Coilovers can be a pretty complicated mess, and getting a set dialed in can be a challenge. What's worse, if you get things wrong you can hurt your new coilovers and end up with awful cornering and ride quality. But that doesn't need to be the outcome.
Step 1: First you should probably set your damper adjusters (or ride stiffness adjusters) to full soft. This is just a starting point - we'll fix this later. Also set your camber adjustments to 0 degrees for now - again, we'll address this stuff later. Also set the preload rings (at the bottom of the spring) with 1/4 to 1/2 turn of preload - just enough that the springs won't wiggle and make noise when you try to move them back and fourth.
Step 2: Find out what the correct damper operating range is for you coilovers. There should be a set of measurements that describe some limits for where you can set the ride height adjusters for you car. The ride height is controlled by the cups and lock ring at the bottom of the dampers. I tend to use milimeters - they're fine enough to get things set right.
Step 3: Once you know the ride height range acceptable for your coilovers, go out and measure the distance from the center of your wheel to the top center of the fender on each corner of your car - write this down, you'll need it later.
Step 4: Pre-set your coilovers an acceptable setting for ride height (from the data in step 2) and then install them on your car. Write down the distance between the bottom of the spring on each coilover and the top of the cup - you'll need this later.
Step 5: Put the car back on the ground and re-measure the distances between the wheel center and the top center of each fender. Find the dififferences between the new values and the values from step 3. Write everything down.
Step 6: If there are any unequal differences between the measurements from step 2 and the measurements in step 5, jack the car back up. Use the spring-to-cup measurements from step 4 to figure out how much to move the ride height cups up or down as needed. Repeat this step until the car is flat (by flat I mean the change is equal at all four corners). After the car is flat, make additional changes by moving the cups up or down as needed to get the ride height you want. Personally I recomend keeping the car flat (changing the ride height equally).
Step 7: After all this work take the car to a GOOD speed shop that can cornerweight and align the car to your specs. If you don't know what specs to use, ask them - they should be able to help you out. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP! While Step 6 will make make the car look perfect, the handling will still be whacked - no exceptions.
Step 8: After the car comes back with your new cornerbalance and alignment it's time to work on ride quality. The goal is to use as little preload as possible. Since we started with the springs very lightly preloaded, we can increase the preload of the springs by 1/4 to 1/2 turn until the car achievies "minimum bounce" without getting too harsh. Adjust the front and rear individually and always make the same change to both sides. You may need to make several adjustments to both the front and rear to find the right balance and feel.
Step 9: It's damper time! Now it's time to start moving the "ride stiffness" adjusters up until the car's ride gets even better. Just go a click or two at a time, and once things feel good, try moving the fornt end and back end up and down individually until the car has the right feel and balance.
If this sounds like alot of work, you're right! But if you follow this procedure and the advise of a good speed shop for your alignment and cornerweighting you should end up with a car that handles and rides great. If the car still isn't perfect, the link above contains pointer for further adjustments by changing tire presures, alignment settings, ride heights (but then you may need to go back the speed shop for more cornerweighting), and sway bars.
And finally - Step 10: Get some seat time at driver's school, track day or HPDE! You car will now be MUCH faster than it was previously, and how it behaves in corners will also probably have changed - to learn those new limits get to an environment where you can safely and responsible explore them and enjoy your new found performance!
Good Luck!
The only trouble im having is the part where he talks about measuring to the middle of the fender? Do you just go out and find the mid point or guess it?
and i also got this from that thread http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm this helped alot on understanding
thanks, brent