Pulling Motor What bolt size...

[corriganjoshua]

Im sure im gunna catch it for reposting but I searched and found nothing so here we go...When hooking the chains to the motor what bolt size does it take to go in the motor?

[Mathetai]

Use seatbelts :keke:

[johngriff]

Just loop the chain around parts of the motor and put a large bolt through two chain links, with fender washers and nuts.

If you have lifting straps even better, or if your engine came with the secret nissan engine lifting hooks you are in luck.

[LA_phantom_240]

Or use the intake and exhaust head studs. They work.

[allntrlundrgrnd]

cant you just put chains/straps through intake and exhaust mani's?

[corriganjoshua]

Ill just loop it than...Thanks


Josh

[corriganjoshua]

Use seatbelts :keke:
Ill get right on that

[johngriff]

Or use the intake and exhaust head studs. They work.

Noooo.

This is the worst possible idea.

[sillyvia13]

Ill get right on that
order an engine, I bet $100 it has seatbelts on it! lol...
all the time! I get them...on steering pump pulleys!! closest easiest place they can find, they being canada importers...that all suck cock and balls..:angel: lol...

[johngriff]

Well look.

You MUST be carefull. Any one that has worked with me, or been close to me when moving/handling an engine knows, how big I am on safety around lifting engines.

IF.
IF.
IF.
IF a chain snaps off that engine, thats going to be 600lbs + gravity whiping that chain through the air. That is enough to cut your little meaty body in half, sever a limb, or rip your skull apart.

I like straps. If you have to use a chain, LOOP IT on something solid, use LARGE NEW BOLTS.

DO NOT "BOLT" the chain onto the engine. Bolts snap like this. CAST ALUMINUM HEADS BREAK OFF IN CHUNKS OFF THE STUDS, a snapped chain can and WILL KILL YOU DEAD, OR RIP THROUGH YOUR CAR.

/safetyrant

[corriganjoshua]

Putting it that way Ill try to find some straps...

[corriganjoshua]

order an engine, I bet $100 it has seatbelts on it! lol...
all the time! I get them...on steering pump pulleys!! closest easiest place they can find, they being canada importers...that all suck cock and balls..:angel: lol...Already got the motor and no seatbelts to be found haha I do accept paypal if its easier for ya

[corriganjoshua]

Thanks for the help johngriff a little vulgar but you definitely have a good point haha

[johngriff]

Well, thats just what I think about when moving an engine.

The chain snapping, and cutting through my chest.

Me laying on the ground, trying to breathe as I hold my stomach/intestines in my hands, trying pick them up off the shop floor.

Can't breathe, blood is filling my lungs.

and essentially I am dying for some dumb jdm engine.

I'd rather die in a war or a car crash.

[projectRDM]

I hate when I die while removing an engine.

[bo2o]

every1 has seatbelts haha take them out from your rear seats. no 1 sits back there and if they did they never buckle up.


or go to the junk yard and grab a few.

i juss use a chain and i have put them them on the head bolts. ya its un safe but works.

or you can loop it thru your intake and headers. that works.

just as long as you get the motor leveled and dont snag it on anything and if it gets snaged just stop, and get it free and wiggle it. and start agian.

4cyl doesnt way much, a good set of chains and most chains pull up to 800lbs and our motor ways like half of that if that.
haha

[RedtopTech]

yeah smallish chains are used frequently at my shop for both large and smallblocks without issue. I have used the ex manifold studs on v'8s as well as the sr. I have also removed the sr by looping the chain around the manifolds so both ways will work fine.

[nissanguy13]

wrap the chain around the intake manifold and the other side you can use one of the holes on the block below the valve cover near the back on the drivers side. I cant remember what size bolt I used. I pulled/installed quite a few engines that way with no problem.

[sillyvia13]

Well, thats just what I think about when moving an engine.

The chain snapping, and cutting through my chest.

Me laying on the ground, trying to breathe as I hold my stomach/intestines in my hands, trying pick them up off the shop floor.

Can't breathe, blood is filling my lungs.

and essentially I am dying for some dumb jdm engine.

I'd rather die in a war or a car crash.

you gotta do more push ups...lol....chain bounces off me...:faint: ...hahaha
I agree tho, bolting chains to a engine is a lil scarey if not done in a safe manner, seatbelts scare me more tho...to each is there own.

[LA_phantom_240]

I got a chain from AutoZone (pretty hefty too) and made sure it was a brand new one. In a nutshell, I looped the chain around one of the intake runners, and bolted the other side of the chain (which has a plate with a hole in it to bolt to the motor) to the exhaust side of the head. I've done this a total of three times with no problems. In fact, this last engine we had to get violent with, and not so much as a crack.

[UNISA JECS]

I've done atleast ~25 engine swaps in my life (mainly FWD B13/B14/P10/p11) and a hand full of RWD SR's and KA's and a couple of hondas.

I have always used a load leveler with 4 point of connection, why? Just because I wanted to be safer and put less load on anyone particular point of connection (share the load), on a SR20DE or SR20DET its very easy to get the 4 point of connection, however on the KA24DE its not so easy.

What I have been doing for the KA24DE is running a chain completely threw meaning underneith the intake manifold runners which give 2 points sorta when connected to teh load leveler, and then a connection at the rear of the block driverside just below the valve cover 3rd point and for the 4th point I used an extanded bolt with a large washer and put it threw the chain and secure the bolt to the forward most bolt of the power steering bracket if teh makes sense.

But I just ordered the KA24DE engine slingers from Nissan still waiting for them to arrive but here is a screen shot and if anyone wants the part numbers just ask.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/SP32-20080224-155826.gif

[nissanguy13]

I've done atleast ~25 engine swaps in my life (mainly FWD B13/B14/P10/p11) and a hand full of RWD SR's and KA's and a couple of hondas.

I have always used a load leveler with 4 point of connection, why? Just because I wanted to be safer and put less load on anyone particular point of connection (share the load), on a SR20DE or SR20DET its very easy to get the 4 point of connection, however on the KA24DE its not so easy.

What I have been doing for the KA24DE is running a chain completely threw meaning underneith the intake manifold runners which give 2 points sorta when connected to teh load leveler, and then a connection at the rear of the block driverside just below the valve cover 3rd point and for the 4th point I used an extanded bolt with a large washer and put it threw the chain and secure the bolt to the forward most bolt of the power steering bracket if teh makes sense.

But I just ordered the KA24DE engine slingers from Nissan still waiting for them to arrive but here is a screen shot and if anyone wants the part numbers just ask.



This is the best advice your going to get +1