guillermo corro
01-21-2008, 11:33 AM
well, thanks a lot first of all for the guys who take some time and read this, hope you guys can help me, because i'm lost now, i have no idea what could be the problem, i'll try to be short, but i'll try to give as much details as u may need.....
main problem is idle... car started few weeks with a little idle problem, i belived it was an old distributor cap, or rotor or something like that because i didnt replace those in a while, so didnt put much attention, once i replaced those... car had the same idle problem..., december vacations were on the door so i parked the car and used a second car... 10 days ago, i started the car, and idle problem got worst!... ugly, car keeps running just by a little rpms up, but go down till like 300... 700,, and jumping between those... if i remove the MAF connector, the idle gets perfect... but i already tested 3 mafs.. one from a running 97, and problem is exactly the same, i already replaced maf connector, so MAf is not on my list right now, but, my main question is why or what is directly related to the maf?,, because as i wrote before, as soon as i remove the maf idle problem is gone, of course car wont rev more than 2000 i think...
one important thing that i notice is a vaccum sound arround the fuel pressure regulator... or maybe on a lower place or somewhre arround that area.. a big vaccum sound, maybe a vaccum problem?, but i already checked as much as possible the hoses over there.. my hand didnt fit all over the place there, but seems that there is nothing wrong, but where is that vaccum noise comming from?,, and why?, is there any good way to check for vaccum problems?,, is that noise normal? ...
another thing is that if the maf is connected, and i remove the hose that goes from the air intake tube, the valve cover and the tube comming from the IACV system or something like that... the car will die.,....
but if the maf is NOT connected, and i remove that hose, car keeps running... and a high vaccum is felt from that hose...
anyone can help me?,,, i'm lost over here,,,, have no idea what to do now....
does the fact that by removing the MAF connector makes the car run smooth means that everything else is ok?, but i already tested the maf as much as possible and i think is working.... hope one of you guys help me with this...
only thing i have in mind is replace the whole intake side. :/
thanks a lot ................. and sorry for a long post........ i'm still searching the forums... but no luck... thanks again GC.
hoo, very improtant,,, car is 1995 240sx with a KA24DE... and the ecu codes are only knock sensor, and cranck position sensor, but i already had those before problem started... but to be honest...i just realized that the knock sensor is fried.... smelted... so i disconect it... could that be the problem?... i've been having that knock sensor code almost since i got the car lol, but a recent overheating problem, arround 2 months ago could smelt the sensor,,,, but after overheating problem (caused for a bad water pump) car was running normal..... or almost,..... well, thanks again, i'll stop writting now... lol
main problem is idle... car started few weeks with a little idle problem, i belived it was an old distributor cap, or rotor or something like that because i didnt replace those in a while, so didnt put much attention, once i replaced those... car had the same idle problem..., december vacations were on the door so i parked the car and used a second car... 10 days ago, i started the car, and idle problem got worst!... ugly, car keeps running just by a little rpms up, but go down till like 300... 700,, and jumping between those... if i remove the MAF connector, the idle gets perfect... but i already tested 3 mafs.. one from a running 97, and problem is exactly the same, i already replaced maf connector, so MAf is not on my list right now, but, my main question is why or what is directly related to the maf?,, because as i wrote before, as soon as i remove the maf idle problem is gone, of course car wont rev more than 2000 i think...
one important thing that i notice is a vaccum sound arround the fuel pressure regulator... or maybe on a lower place or somewhre arround that area.. a big vaccum sound, maybe a vaccum problem?, but i already checked as much as possible the hoses over there.. my hand didnt fit all over the place there, but seems that there is nothing wrong, but where is that vaccum noise comming from?,, and why?, is there any good way to check for vaccum problems?,, is that noise normal? ...
another thing is that if the maf is connected, and i remove the hose that goes from the air intake tube, the valve cover and the tube comming from the IACV system or something like that... the car will die.,....
but if the maf is NOT connected, and i remove that hose, car keeps running... and a high vaccum is felt from that hose...
anyone can help me?,,, i'm lost over here,,,, have no idea what to do now....
does the fact that by removing the MAF connector makes the car run smooth means that everything else is ok?, but i already tested the maf as much as possible and i think is working.... hope one of you guys help me with this...
only thing i have in mind is replace the whole intake side. :/
thanks a lot ................. and sorry for a long post........ i'm still searching the forums... but no luck... thanks again GC.
hoo, very improtant,,, car is 1995 240sx with a KA24DE... and the ecu codes are only knock sensor, and cranck position sensor, but i already had those before problem started... but to be honest...i just realized that the knock sensor is fried.... smelted... so i disconect it... could that be the problem?... i've been having that knock sensor code almost since i got the car lol, but a recent overheating problem, arround 2 months ago could smelt the sensor,,,, but after overheating problem (caused for a bad water pump) car was running normal..... or almost,..... well, thanks again, i'll stop writting now... lol