Brake overhaul:

[adey]

Tonight I will be changing my brake pads, rotors, fluid and lines, as well as installing speedbleeders and new tie rod ends.

Other than the ball joint removal fork and rear brake caliper tool, am I going to need anything else in terms of special tools?

Am I going to have to remove the wheel bearing lock nut to change my rotors, or is that only if I'm taking off the hub? If I do have to take that off, how big is the nut? The biggest ratchet head thingy (wrench) that I have is 18mm, will that be big enough, or will I need to go up to 19 or 21?

I'm a little apprehensive of changing my tie rods, but we'll see how far I get before I run into any serious problems.

TIA guys. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/turn.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':turn:'>


edit: Also, what's the best way to change brake fluid? Should I just disconnect a whole corner (in the wheel well) and press the brakes, or should I over-bleed the brakes? &nbsp;
Should I install lines first, or bleed the brakes (empty the reservior) first?

[adey]

:Bump:

Also, how do you guys get the rear calipers off the rear upright? I couldn't fit a ratchet into the tight spot where the top bolt holds the caliper to the upright... and if you can't get that off, you can't (as far as I know) get the pads out, OR the rotors off! What's the deal?

Also, what order should I change all this in? I'm thinking:

-Rotors
-Pads
*flush/empty brake system*
-(SS) Lines
-speedbleeders
-Fluid
*bleed*

Is there a better way?

[Tricky1980]

ok, well i went as far as changing rotors and pads.. and you dont hafe to remove the center nut thing to get rotor off. you just have to take off the 2 bolts holding the caliper and the other 2 bolts holding the thing that holds the caliper.. it is a tight fit back there but i used just a wrench and a rubber mallet to loosen the ut and then went from there.. mine was rusted on but it did break loose... i probably wouldnt put your new rotors or pads on until after you have emptied the lines and changed them.... so u make sure you dont get any on your new parts. &nbsp;i have never changed lines or fluid myself so i cant help you there though.. sorry
jay

[91CRXsiR]

isnt it unsafe to swap all the brake parts at the same time.. &nbsp;both your pads/rotors wont have any break in time..

[adey]

no break-in time? that's why you go easy on your new setup.

Anyway as a little recap (for those who've been paying attention to this thread) on my brake overhaul, it finally all came off, and back on. Or, at least the calipers. I'm now running on brembo OE spec rear rotors, porterfield R4S pads out back, some Valvoline Dot 4 fluid, front Chuki RPS13 rotors and calipers with some I-don't-know-what pads... I'm still trying to wear off the top layer of rust (one rotor had a pretty thick coat!<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> on the rotors, and am taking it pretty easy for now.
If this thread (and myself) are still alive after I try pushing the brakes a little, I'll let you all know how they perform vs. my stock front rotors with asbestoshit pads. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>

BTW for those thinking of changing all pads, rotors, lines and fluid at once, give at LEAST 5 hours of time for it, it took me about 6-7 hours to get all of it off. You'll also need a special 10mm brake-line-removing wrench. Air tools are HIGHLY recommended. You'll probably need them in front to take of the 19 (or were they 21 &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/crazy.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':crazy:'>) mm bolts that bolt the caliper to the front Knuckle spindle.

-AD

[flipboi13]

You flushed your entire brake system with dot 4 fluid?? dang...
If your brake bolts aren't too rusted, air tools aren't really required, just alot of elbow grease... it just hurts...

[adey]

at 4 or 5 bucks per bottle of Dot 4 fluid, I don't mind spending the cash. I mean, $10 for the peace of mind that my brake fluid isn't boiling and is still well within its limits is totally worth it. As someone once said... "brakes is life". <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>

After tonight though, I realize it! I've been having brake problems since I took the old cheapo non-performnace pads/rotors out for a whooping, and they faded on me like nothing I've ever experienced before... tonight, I was having pad problems. You never realize how important your brakes are, and how much you take them for granted, until they don't work when you're entering a hard blind left at 55 miles an hour. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/unhappy.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':unhappy:'>