Rebuilt Engine Break In...

[KiLLeR2001]

My SR20DET is freshly rebuilt from the bottom up with all new internals, and I was wondering what engine oil should I use before I first fire it up. I've read that you DO NOT use synthetic oil until after the first oil change, so I was wondering what type of oil must I first use before firing my engine up for the first time. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

[Sileighty_85]

I used Castrol 10W30 on my Rebuild/Built SR

[posdrift240]

Everyone will have there own oil opinions but I personally have used castrol on my Rb race engine break in and went to the synthetic castrol after the first oil change! Just took my motor out and bottom end looks perfect!! Engine has 14 track passes and about 500 HWY miles.

[g6civcx]

My SR20DET is freshly rebuilt from the bottom up with all new internals, and I was wondering what engine oil should I use before I first fire it up. I've read that you DO NOT use synthetic oil until after the first oil change, so I was wondering what type of oil must I first use before firing my engine up for the first time. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

Just one source: http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/asp/pht/pht20011201ce.asp

[brndck]

+1 for NON-synthetic oil for the first time. and go easy on her for awhile (some people say 500 miles, i say at least 800-1000). then synthetic after your first oil change.

[RedtopTech]

+1 for NON-synthetic oil for the first time. and go easy on her for awhile (some people say 500 miles, i say at least 800-1000). then synthetic after your first oil change.

I would have to disagree with both of these statements. For one "taking it easy" is not the best way to break in a motor. The most important part of break-in is getting the rings to seat/seal against the cylinder wall. With low cylinder pressure the rings will simply glide wear the cross hatches down without the rings wearing into them. If the cross hatching wears down before the rings get a good seal, break-in stops. Another important note is to allow the engine to build up high vaccum to scavenge crankcase vapors due to high blow by. The best way to do this is to engine break for a few seconds at a time. High cylinder pressures good, high rpm not necessary.
Also you imply that your first oil change should be done after 800-1000 miles. Do you have any idea how much crap is floating around in the oil after just the initial start up?
1. Start engine and inspect for leaks while maintaning a high idle
2. Keep tabs on all vitals ie.oil pressure, coolant temp, oil temp, while the engine warms up.
3. once warm, set timing, idle,
4. shut down and change oil and filter.
5. Start up and take it out for the maiden voyage.
6. inital break-in miles should consist of 10-15 mile runs of varying rpm and load. after 4 or 5 runs of increased load perform a leak down test. This is how i determine when a motor is broken in. Once the rings seal to the point of less than 10 percent leak down you can consider them broken-in.

[louisdaboois]

hm. I used off brand conventional oil when I broke in my ka-t after building it. first oil change came after a few mins of start up and running. then another at about 300miles. and again at 600miles. basically 300 mile increments until the motor hit 1200 miles. then went to royal purple.

Like RedtopTech said, "taking it easy" is not the best way to break in a motor. Taking it up to the power band, yet not beating the hell out of it, lets the motor have varying degrees of load which properly seals the rings and sets in the bearings as if it were driven by a motorsport enthusiast/normal person, not a 90 year old woman.

[usdm180sx]

^+1. NO SYNTHETIC unless you want a blow by ie. SLOW motor. Here's more information:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

[gotta240]

There are many different opinions on breaking motors in.

I've heard anything from

1. take it super easy
2. take it kinda easy
3. drive it like you will once broken in.. Meaning, drive it hard if it will be driven that way.

all three methods came from reputable builders. One thing that is almost certain though.... DONT WAIT 1000 miles to change oil... Go spend 70 bucks on a few castrol oil changes

[posdrift240]

+1 for NON-synthetic oil for the first time. and go easy on her for awhile (some people say 500 miles, i say at least 800-1000). then synthetic after your first oil change.

I would have to disagree with both of these statements. For one "taking it easy" is not the best way to break in a motor. The most important part of break-in is getting the rings to seat/seal against the cylinder wall. With low cylinder pressure the rings will simply glide wear the cross hatches down without the rings wearing into them. If the cross hatching wears down before the rings get a good seal, break-in stops. Another important note is to allow the engine to build up high vaccum to scavenge crankcase vapors due to high blow by. The best way to do this is to engine break for a few seconds at a time. High cylinder pressures good, high rpm not necessary.
Also you imply that your first oil change should be done after 800-1000 miles. Do you have any idea how much crap is floating around in the oil after just the initial start up?
1. Start engine and inspect for leaks while maintaning a high idle
2. Keep tabs on all vitals ie.oil pressure, coolant temp, oil temp, while the engine warms up.
3. once warm, set timing, idle,
4. shut down and change oil and filter.
5. Start up and take it out for the maiden voyage.
6. inital break-in miles should consist of 10-15 mile runs of varying rpm and load. after 4 or 5 runs of increased load perform a leak down test. This is how i determine when a motor is broken in. Once the rings seal to the point of less than 10 percent leak down you can consider them broken-in.


Good points!! I agree with most! I personally broke my motor in at idle in the garage! Changed oil and took it to the track the next weekend!! HAHA Guys who race there motors never take a 800 Mile break in period. Its always start it, set the timing, check for leaks, Shut it off change oil and were ready to rock and roll!!

[mikeroy420]

Abit off topic, but doesn't Plateau Honing your Cylinders eliminated the break in peroid? Or should you still take these step?

[g6civcx]

There are many opinions on this topic, many of them from reputable engine builders and OEM manufacturers.

The best thing is to ask an engine builder you trust.

[hunter8411]

I would have to disagree with both of these statements. For one "taking it easy" is not the best way to break in a motor. The most important part of break-in is getting the rings to seat/seal against the cylinder wall. With low cylinder pressure the rings will simply glide wear the cross hatches down without the rings wearing into them. If the cross hatching wears down before the rings get a good seal, break-in stops. Another important note is to allow the engine to build up high vaccum to scavenge crankcase vapors due to high blow by. The best way to do this is to engine break for a few seconds at a time. High cylinder pressures good, high rpm not necessary.
Also you imply that your first oil change should be done after 800-1000 miles. Do you have any idea how much crap is floating around in the oil after just the initial start up?
1. Start engine and inspect for leaks while maintaning a high idle
2. Keep tabs on all vitals ie.oil pressure, coolant temp, oil temp, while the engine warms up.
3. once warm, set timing, idle,
4. shut down and change oil and filter.
5. Start up and take it out for the maiden voyage.
6. inital break-in miles should consist of 10-15 mile runs of varying rpm and load. after 4 or 5 runs of increased load perform a leak down test. This is how i determine when a motor is broken in. Once the rings seal to the point of less than 10 percent leak down you can consider them broken-in.

Rep for you sir. This is excatly the steps I followed for my break-in, after searching and reading multiple sites online and talking to many different mechanics.

[Anto]

wouldn't hurt to stick a magnet on the oil filter

helps catch all the fine particles, especially since this is a rebuilt motor.

[lonelydrifter]

I agree with RedTopTech as well. I am still in the process of beaking in my motor but I did it this way for the initial runs. low rpm and don't dump fuel into the system. I would do short bursts of acceleration followed by engine breaking which causes that vacuum pull of the rings to the sides of the walls. I used regular 10w30 and changed it after it warmed up for the first time.

I got a magnetic oil drain plug to catch the particles. It should only be a very fine dust. If you find large flakes then something is wrong. Also make sure you prime the oil pump before starting. This also makes sure you have oil through the turbo as well.

[Dousan_PG]

rebuilt engine?
ive been runing Castrol 10w30 since the day it was put together
no use spending all that money on fancy pants oil right now
car runs beautiful how it is.

we broke mine in on the dyno
'drove' it there for a few hours.

[blueshark123]

This is what i do to brake in new engines start the car up let idle giving it little throttle then when it stops smoking change the oil non sythetic penzoil 10w30 . Then go balls out on the dyno to break it in. change oil after 150 then every 300miles change it with 10w30 till u get to 2000miles. then you will change with synhetic oil.

[PoorMans180SX]

If you have the money, break it it on a dyno. You can vary loads and rpms as much as you want. Like everyone else said, no synthetic, it actually doesn't allow enough wear to happen between the cylinder walls and the rings.

[KiLLeR2001]

Thanks for all the information everyone, very helpful. +rep


I got a magnetic oil drain plug to catch the particles. It should only be a very fine dust. If you find large flakes then something is wrong. Also make sure you prime the oil pump before starting. This also makes sure you have oil through the turbo as well.

How do you prime the oil pump? I'm not too familiar with this procedure.

[brndck]

i just meant no revving the piss out of it. i've known people who as soon as they get the engine in are bouncing off redline, and then a few months later, its time for another rebuild. redtoptech absolutely has the right info.

[MA JasonG]

Here are the steps that we took when running a freshly built motor:
done the same things with race built motor and personal daily motors. just the mileage on break-in is different.

Initial oil used was any cheap non detergent oil. This is to ensure all the lubrication used will wash out. Did this until we read correct oil pressure. Usually 15-20mins of cranking and 20-25 mins of running.
Switch to a non fully synthetic oil. Drive around varying through rpms.
Usually run this for about 500-800 miles. I recommend trying to stay away from highways as you usually sit for periods of time under the same load/rpm.
Change oil again. Be sure to check compression and do a leak down test.Just the basics of what needs to be done, or what we have done. Redtoptech pretty much hit the nail on the head. GJ

[ReLevent1]

What are the methods used to break in a motor built for track only?

[MA JasonG]

What are the methods used to break in a motor built for track only?

Pretty much the same initial thing with oil except mileage on break in was maybe like 20 miles, then switched oils. revving of the motor was pretty hard. Once it warmed up we just beat on it. It never had any problems. Lasted through seasons. The motor wasn't built by MA it was done in Florida (personal track car). Hasnt had a problem yet.

[blueshark123]

Thanks for all the information everyone, very helpful. +rep



How do you prime the oil pump? I'm not too familiar with this procedure.

to prime it all u need to do is disconnect the coil pack so the car wont start then crank it for a couple of seconds then repeat. some people say to remove the sparkplugs but i dont do that.

[lonelydrifter]

^^ Yes removing the coil packs will keep it from sparking. I also unplug the injectors so you don't flood the enigine with fuel.

Do this and crank for about 10 seconds and stop. Do this 3-4 times. You will see oil and coolant leaking if you have any leaks. Good time to fix the problem. If you have an oil pressure gauge you can watch the pressure build.

I not you can take the valve cover off and watch oil spray through the squirters.

I had a gauge, but just crank it over 3-4 times and you should be good.

[RedtopTech]

I have one issue for this method of priming the oil system. You want the oil pressure to come up instantly. If you are sitting there cranking the engine for long periods of time all the while the crank is grinding directly on the bearings. Once running, crank should never actually touch the bearings because it is riding on a film of oil. The best way to start any engine that doesnt have a provision(distributer slot) to spin the oil pump is to pack the pump housing with petroleum jelly. Also fill the oil filter before installing. Using these techniques my engines always build pressure instantly the first time they are started. Always moniter true pressure, not just the dummy light or factory gauge!

[womenbeshoppin]

how would u break in a new motor if u also replaced the clutch? drive it normal for 500 miles for the clutch, then drive the shit out of it for another 500 for the motor?

[GSXRJJordan]

RedtopTech hit it right on the money, on both counts.

I've done a few Superbike-spec motors (1000cc, >14:1 compression, ~190hp, $6k or so) and the bike guys are absolutely nuts over break-in - I broke all the motors in on the dyno or at the track, where you run them increasingly hard, but not to redline... and like he said - scavenging is just as important as getting the compression up reduce blow by! You have to get the oil rings to wear in also... So make sure you're off the throttle engine breaking too.

About breaking in a motor with a new clutch... just like breaking in a new motor on a vehicle with new brakes, it gets tricky. You'll want to be gentle getting into the power (or as gentle as you can be on a turbo motor), but make sure you're getting 80% throttle or so, and then back off and let the engine brake for a while... keep it up, varying your peak rpms that you're running to, and as long as you're not too hard on it off the line, your clutch shouldn't complain.

And jesus, don't run the car for this 500/800/1000 mile bullshit. All the metallic fragments/lube/detergents/etc that are in the oil are there from the first 15 miles - change it at 20, then change it again 1000 or so after that.

[usdm180sx]

Anyone here use a preluber?

http://www.pre-luber.com/trailerlifeart.htm

[GSXRJJordan]

Anyone here use a preluber?

http://www.pre-luber.com/trailerlifeart.htm

That's what SHE said...

But no, never heard of that. Makes sense, but then again, that's a very small amount of wear and tear compared to what a race/etc motor puts up with.

[Saviorsoul]

Redtops got it.

[zavala]

that's why his pic is of a redtop with a nice ASE tag on it. atleast someone on this site gives out good info lol