The fabrication thread.

[blu808]

Here is a thread I am starting to showcase the fellow fabricators here on the forum. Post up your legitimate fabrication projects.

rules:
No lame projects (weld on muffler, bolt in cage, silvia fronts, stupid stuff)
Be informative to help others with their projects.
Showcase the production process (before, during, after)
Constructive critisism only.

I will post up some more interesting things once i get my camera from work and upload the images. I will post pics of some aluminum valve covers I made for a gt40, chassis modifications, roll cage fabrication and DIY help tips, welding pics and tips, custom 2-1/4'' headers I am making for the shop car, a 500 ci donovan fuel injected supercharged aluminum big block
(yes a real donovan)


If anyone has any questions for fab projects feel free to pm me if you think I can help out in anyway. Thanks.

Project: 69 Camaro pro touring.

mock up: (old iron block no blower)
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/DSC00739.jpg

Willwoods all around.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/DSC00740.jpg

Forgeline wheels.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/DSC00741.jpg

Custom air ride rear suspension. fabricated to hold coilovers.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/DSC00745.jpg

Yes that is a quick change on a street car.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/DSC00743.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/DSC00744.jpg

Custom fabbed t304 stainless gas tank. All tig welded.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/DSC00746.jpg

Custom subframe.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/DSC00756.jpg

Custom made subframe connectors. Now tig welded.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/DSC00755.jpg

I will post up action shots tomorrow.

[Antihero983]

good god.......awesome thread!

[mademedoit]

Those big chrome gills right in front of your rear wheel that serve NO purpose. Can't you remove them and weld up the holes, that would be some good fabrication.

[blu808]

Those big chrome gills right in front of your rear wheel that serve NO purpose. Can't you remove them and weld up the holes, that would be some good fabrication.

Sorry the rear wheel vents are a trademark of the camaro, and eventhough the production can vents are only visual in purpose, they were added so that the factory team could use a functional piece. They are original and will stay in place. Besides.. I would not consider plugging some holes with a mig and sanding some bondo "fabrication".

[manka4343]

nice project.. but that is a Ford 9", not a quick change..

[blu808]

Its a ford 9" fully gusseted with a quick change.

[manka4343]

Its a ford 9" fully gusseted with a quick change.
Huh? It's a ford 9" with a billet pinion support.. I am new to imports, but i've been around domestics a long time.. This is a quick change.. It's called a quick change because you can change the final drive ratio in about 5 minutes by taking that rear cover off and changing two little gears, but the ring and pinion stay the same..

[blu808]

that is true. Alot of circle track guys use those rear ends. I will double check the specs on our rear end tomorrow and let you know exactly what it is. From what I was told it was a quick change of some sorts.

[DrtyRat]

I forsee this being a great thread. I think the thread rules should also state that it has to be the poster's fabrication. It shouldn't be some fab work that you happened to see on some random google search. This way real answers to questions about the fab work could be given. +1 to the op for a great thread idea.

[racepar1]

Awesome thread! I am going to document the front diffuser, radiator duct, and brake/intake ducts that I am going to fab up for my front bumper. I'll be back soon!

[NiSilS14]

Well I guess I could post up a turbo manifold I've helped built. This was on my car, then all of my turbo stuff got stolen :(, But anyway onto pictures. Here we are mocking up the turbo position.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y268/Nissils14/Mockup/Turbo001.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y268/Nissils14/Mockup/Turbo002.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y268/Nissils14/Mockup/Turbo003.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y268/Nissils14/Mockup/wg008copy.jpg
Here it is with runners and all welded up.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y268/Nissils14/Mockup/gt3040002.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y268/Nissils14/Mockup/gt3040005.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y268/Nissils14/Mockup/gt3040006.jpg
Here's it is completely done w/ IC pipes and such
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y268/Nissils14/DSC00734-1.jpg

[burnsauto]

interesting spot for the wastegate. nice work though. :)

[slw240sx]

I don't have any pictures of any thing recent, i never remember to photograph my work. I just bought a nice camera so i will be now. I also haven't had the chance to build anything cool in a while.

Here is a set of Turbo Headers i built for a 347 powered Ford SuperCoupe, the original headers had been repaired multiple times and finally blew apart, they were also 1.5" tubing, and we stepped up to 1-5/8ths. This car made over 630Hp.
on a Fixture i threw together real fast, i made these headers from start to finish in a couple of hours.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/SC_turbo.jpg
old vs. New
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/SC_turbo1.jpg
Finished pair, the wastegate was located on the Crossover pipe Which the customer made himself at his house.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/Sc_turbo3.jpg

The first Intake manifold i had ever made bout three or four years ago, it was a employee of mine, he wanted somthing simple.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/Neon_manifold.jpg

My car. This thing has been sitting collecting dust for two years, and has only ran for a week since i built this setup in 06.

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/Ca18detsilver.jpg
Evo 8 Turbo with under 1K on it.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/Ca18det_Evo8.jpg

Fully wired up, and ready to run, but it hasnt in almost a year...
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/jonca18det1.jpg

Thats it. I wish i had more to share. I have improved alot since alot of these were taken, It sucks i Havent been recording any of my work.

Jon

[blu808]

Great replies everyone.

slw240sx: Mad props on the fab skills. Making both of those in one day is awesome. Can you share with the viewers some tips on minimizing production time, and some tips on getting everything done on schedule. Such as collector placement, runner length, overall expectations for the project?

Sweet.

burnsauto: yes. Inovative placement since the usual location was not available.

Nisils14: Awesome angle on those beautiful collectors. Flow is shaking your hand with that setup. lol

Also great manifold design assuming it was thick material.

What gauge did you use?

Again. Great to see some contributions. Any pics before, after, during, to help the DIY guys ?


mods.. Sticky please

[blu808]

Drtyrat: I agree. Only personal work. Dont post up a pic of a F1 engine and say it is awesome.... we already know it is.

So... yea. Only cool fab stuff that pertains to you.

racepar1: I would really like to see your documented build of that.

[NiSilS14]

Nisils14: Awesome angle on those beautiful collectors. Flow is shaking your hand with that setup. lol

Also great manifold design assuming it was thick material.

What gauge did you use?

Thanks! It's just the usual sch10 304SS piping.

[racepar1]

Drtyrat: I agree. Only personal work. Dont post up a pic of a F1 engine and say it is awesome.... we already know it is.

So... yea. Only cool fab stuff that pertains to you.

racepar1: I would really like to see your documented build of that.

Gimme a week or two as I need to repair the cracks in the bumper first, but I promise I will write it up and take my time so I have a good product at the end not some piece of crap.

[blu808]

schedule 10 is cool. I assumed it was 304

Is there anything you can give out for info to help the DIY or newbies?
Let us know what you did to figure out the runner length, collector placement, etc. lets spread it out.

[blu808]

Gimme a week or two as I need to repair the cracks in the bumper first, but I promise I will write it up and take my time so I have a good product at the end not some piece of crap.

No hurry. I would just like to see it. Also please show what little tricks you use.

Me personally I would try to show any tricks i use. Such as using a radius gauge set, contour guages, hell even a protractor. anything to make this thread useful in a way that is beyond visually attractive.

[punxva]

No hurry. I would just like to see it. Also please show what little tricks you use.

Me personally I would try to show any tricks i use. Such as using a radius gauge set, contour guages, hell even a protractor. anything to make this thread useful in a way that is beyond visually attractive.

Luke you've nailed it on the head, there needs to be more informative posts on zilvia, and this is a step in the right direction.

Subscribed

[unicoladron]

love this thread idea..this is coming from someone who will be getting into fab very soon.

might i add that perhaps some details on what techniques were used to fab. ie, what equipment was used to bend tubing, what was used for mockups, what type of welding, what equipment was used for welding, etc..

just a though for us fab wannabes.

+1 for unique thread idea.

[KA-T_240]

This is the only parts i have really made on my own other then bracket for holding the IC and a cart for parts:

S13 Hatch Harness Bar Version 1. Cost me $25-$35 to make using Steel from various places.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/2165000-2165999/2165252_159_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/2165000-2165999/2165252_163_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/2165000-2165999/2165252_162_full.jpg


I have since changed it, and added pieces that go off the cross bar that for where the harnesses bolt to. And Things off the back that have 1/4 steel bars that go down and bolt to where the rear seat belts bolted to. I will take new pics later.

I also made some custom reinforcement for my clearanced S13 bumper stupport using 1 1/2 inch angle iron.

[SoSideways]

Oh snap, very nice KA-T_240! I like the idea of that.

PMing you about that bar :)

[tknbkthrsdy4anfg]

This is the only parts i have really made on my own other then bracket for holding the IC and a cart for parts:

S13 Hatch Harness Bar Version 1. Cost me $25-$35 to make using Steel from various places.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/2165000-2165999/2165252_159_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/2165000-2165999/2165252_163_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/2165000-2165999/2165252_162_full.jpg


I have since changed it, and added pieces that go off the cross bar that for where the harnesses bolt to. And Things off the back that have 1/4 steel bars that go down and bolt to where the rear seat belts bolted to. I will take new pics later.

I also made some custom reinforcement for my clearanced S13 bumper stupport using 1 1/2 inch angle iron.
This would be awesome if you could make a vertical stabilizer that would go down to where the seatbelt bolts in under the door.

[KA-T_240]

This would be awesome if you could make a vertical stabilizer that would go down to where the seatbelt bolts in under the door.

I already did that :2f2f: Just need to take pics of it. That was the start and didnt have it all finalized and was a dumbass and painted it before it was done.

[sidewayz240]

Great idea blu808, that camaro looks amazing, awsome fab work.

Heres my first project I decided to tackle last year when I was 16, my first time welding/fabricating. Its nothing compared to the other projects but I figured I'd contribute to get this thread going.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/sidewayz240/DSC00829.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/sidewayz240/DSC00831.jpg

It is bolted to the floor, I know not a good spot but there was no other easy solution. I'll be taking it out to paint it soon, when I do I'm going to re-inforce the floor mounting point, redo some welds and maybe extend the uprights around further. The sheet steel is 11 gauge, and the tubing is 1", 0.095" wall steel, $30 for all the metal.

[KA-T_240]

what would the purpose of the piece to the floor be?

[blu808]

Thanks for the comments guys.

KA_T; Nice harness bar. Looks well though out and finished. Im glad you put some down tubes on it.

sidewayz240: That is a cool strut tower bar. I like the brackets you made to hold the cross bars. Im assuming that was mig welded?

[jspaeth]

what would the purpose of the piece to the floor be?


hahaha

I'm sorry I have to laught at this....I can just picture the look on your face while you are saying this

[blu808]

what would the purpose of the piece to the floor be?

A triangle is stronger than a straight piece.

If you look at most roll cage designs they are mostly all comprised of triangles.

[KA-T_240]

^
WOW, as soon as i read that i was like OMG, I am retarted!

Thanks for the compliments. I will probably take pics of the finished harness bar tomorrow.


I would like to do my own cage. But don't think my fab skills are up to the task. I can weld good, just need to practice for a while again. I guess, if I take my time I could probably do it. I have the design I would like to use in my head, and its differant then any of the premade cages.

[blu808]

Check out Bend tech. They make a software program that will help you design cages, chassis, anything tube related.

The basic version is cheap, and it will tell you where to bend, where to cut, what angle to cut, how much your project will weigh, and you can look at it on the computer in 3d.

I use the pro addition and is worth every penny.

[sidewayz240]

Thanks, yes it was all mig welded, not the best penitration but its holding up. The V pattern is to add the the strength and add some vertical support ontop of the lateral support a normal strut bar gives you.

Next is to think up a Front stb that ties into the firewall. any input on how to do this? a single mounting point in the center or dual, one on each side?

And this bend tech, you can purchase it off their website in guessing? sounds like it may be very useful.

[blu808]

yes off their website.


Ok. I promised action shots yesterday, and some actual fabrication shots.
Well. Here ya go.

My day at work today.

8:00am. Get to work. Notice that the new flanges for the 2-1/4" headers I am going to be building have come in.

Stainless 304 nice and thick.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric091.jpg

Then i notice that they were square/oval instead of circular. Great!

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric092.jpg

This means that i will have to modify each tube to fit inside the flange.
This involved alot of hitting, bending, and a tourch.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric095.jpg

Well after going that for awhile I was actually ready to start mocking up the headers.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric097.jpg

Yup.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric098.jpg

yup.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric099.jpg

Then Paul decided to interupt me to weld an a/n fitting onto a catch can.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric100.jpg

Tig welded. polarity= ac, argon shielding gas, 140 amps of power, aluminum filler rod.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric101.jpg

Then it was back to the headers.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric131.jpg

Heres the first completed runner.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric132.jpg

Heres the 2nd runner on the welding table.
Tig welded, polarity= DC-, 2% tungsten electrode, 115 amps of power, argon shielding gas, 308 filler rod.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric133.jpg

[blu808]

2nd runner in place. Notice the width of the weld bead, is about the thickness of a pencil tip.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric134.jpg

Here is more pics of the runner being mocked up.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric126.jpg

Tacked into place.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric125.jpg

3rd runner in place.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric135.jpg

Well i decided to start mocking up the other side since I am waiting on a starter and should have that in place while building the 4th runner.

Well the supercharger sits on the other side. So i grabbed that heavy thing and put it on. This is to make sure the header does not get in the way after its finished. Thats what mock up is for.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric136.jpg

big blower

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric137.jpg

Its heavy.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric138.jpg

Its big.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric139.jpg

Then i realize that our expensive valve covers dont fit with the blower in place. Great! So i mark where it needs to be clearanced.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric141.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric142.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric143.jpg

And chop it out using my air saw.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric144.jpg

Then i made a radius piece to put in place.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric148.jpg

And a side plate.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric149.jpg

And tig welded them in.
ac, pure tungsten, argon, aluminum rod, 145 amps.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric152.jpg

then ground it smooth for clearance.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric153.jpg

It fits. Yay!

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric155.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric156.jpg

But it sits too far back :-( the blower bracket is pushing on the flange of the valve cover. So I throw that on the mill and shave it down.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric157.jpg

1/16" should work.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric159.jpg

Sweet !

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric160.jpg

It works.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric154.jpg

[nani]

wow, great skills keep the pics coming

[blu808]

Well about that time I noticed that the tranny crossmember was hanging too low. So i decided to make a new one to clear the exhaust we will be building.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric104.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric102.jpg

Chop off the old ends and rotate them to the correct angle.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric105.jpg

Fabbed up a new bracket.
All tig welded.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric106.jpg

Made some slots on the mill.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric107.jpg

Made a box plate to eliminate any flex since this thing will have over 1000 whp.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric110.jpg

Then made some frame gussets for the tranny mount.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric113.jpg

Tig welded them all in.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric114.jpg

Then made some upper arms out of 1/2 stainless tubing. Added some roll cage brackets, and mounts for the tranny tunnel.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric117.jpg

yup.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric118.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric112.jpg

Then from inside the car, I cut out the dynamat from the tranny tunnel, and drilled a hole.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric119.jpg

Then I tig welded a nut to a washer and put it in place.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric121.jpg

Tack welded it in with the tig.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric122.jpg

Then put the dynamat back over for a seamless finish.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric120.jpg

Well thats it for today.

Hope you enjoyed this. I will try to post up my fun days at work if you guys would like to see.

[Antihero983]

i cant weld yet....i was advised by my shop foreman to buy a 400 mig welder from home depot, and to start with gas first....

any suggestions?

[blu808]

mig is in general the most used type of welding for diy welders. If you are going to learn mig then only do it with shielding gas. Flux core (gasless) is retarded, and will not leave a nice weld and will not be structural.

You can find a decent miller 110v mig at home depot or other welding stores. The nice thing about a 110v is that it is portable, can plug in anywhere, and is stable and easy to weld on really thin metal.

5 years ago I bought a miller 110v mig welder with the gas attachment for $400 from home depot. It is still working strong and has been used heavily.

[slw240sx]

Luke,

i used to have a fixture for my little shop press to put runners into so i could square/rectangle hem. If i can find it ill take a picture of it maybe you can check it out and make somthing similar to square those up, you shouldnt have to use a torch and i try to avoid the heat as much as i can..
Also do you have and "10 to 1's" from MAC?
These, they work great for making gougeless bends on the edges of the tubes.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/100_4559.jpg
I also on 1-3/4 and 2" primarys that use Square ports i will build small sections of straights that weld to the flange then the bend. I machine a solid bar stock of aluminum to fit snuggly inside a straight section of tube then bend the edges into the square pound out the alum mandrel and it keeps your tube perfectly round to weld the bend on to it.

I have built dozens of Domestic turbo headers, so this stuff is natural to me, but i have a hard time explaining how i do stuff or why. My biggest Suggestion to anyone getting started, the best way to get the best results is to get organized, get your work area cleaned up and all the tools you need in order, the more organized you are the faster and happier you can work. the better you clean your materials the better the end result. Right now my Fab area is a complete disaster area and i cant get any work done fast, im taking a half day tomorrow to clean up the shop and mainly my fab area and organize all my materials and tools. ill get some pictures of my setup, i dont have alot of baller tools, i stifle my self because of it, but i also like to build my own tools as i need them.

Jon

[blu808]

Jon. great post.

any pics would be great. I dont have any tools for that since i usually use round flanges. Also. Great advice on keeping everything organized, and material clean...

[kingston240]

rps13....just be carefull with cheap welders from places like home depot, because even though they look the same on the outside, sometimes the internals are compromised. for example you could have a plastic drive wheel or you could have a very low duty cycle so your welder can only work 2 out of 10 minutes to weld anything of a decent thickness.

-Matt

[blu808]

Matt. Good suggestion.

Im not sure about your local home depots but around here they only carry Miller. If you purchase a Miller you will be ok.

Stay away from the cheap off brands. Even the cheaper hobart welders are garbage.

[Ricks15]

I have question about a certain tool that metal fabricators use to cut through sheet metal. Its almost like a pair of metal shears stuffed inside this one handheld device but instead its offered in either Air power-Electric powered.

I have a fiberglass drop in vent that I want to rivit on then mold onto an extra hood that i have laying around but I have no idea what the correct name of that tool is,nor where to look for it. If anybody has any other suggestions on what I can use to cut through the top part of a hood to do this? I was thinking of cutting it out with an angle grinder but I need peoples insight on whats best to use in order to do this.

[blu808]

well what i think you are speaking of is an air shear. That will work fine. A careful hand with a die grinder or air saw will work as well. Maybe even a good dremel if you are doing this at home and dont have the other options.

is this what you were referring too?

http://www.coastaltool.com/a/port/images/ptx6.jpg

[slw240sx]

Do not, I repeat Do Not buy these from harbor freight.... they suck...
I picked up a cheap electric set of shears from there last night for a quick project and for 40$ they cut everything i needed really well..
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/ShittyShitty_Shears.jpg

[DOOK]

god you guys make me wish I could do that shit...

[KA-T_240]

Ok, here are some shitty pics of my harness bar with all the stuff finished. As I look at this, I see some things i would change(move the bar further back. less make the pieces that the harness bolt onto more level. Paint it FLAT black, it glares in my mirror. lol. But, it was our first time doing this. Can always improve on later projects.

First post:
This is the only parts i have really made on my own other then bracket for holding the IC and a cart for parts:

S13 Hatch Harness Bar Version 1. Cost me $25-$35 to make using Steel from various places.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/2165000-2165999/2165252_159_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/2165000-2165999/2165252_163_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/2165000-2165999/2165252_162_full.jpg


I have since changed it, and added pieces that go off the cross bar that for where the harnesses bolt to. And Things off the back that have 1/4 steel bars that go down and bolt to where the rear seat belts bolted to. I will take new pics later.

I also made some custom reinforcement for my clearanced S13 bumper stupport using 1 1/2 inch angle iron.

Pics:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/90_240sx/HarnssBar7.jpgof how it is finished
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/90_240sx/HarnssBar6.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/90_240sx/HarnssBar.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/90_240sx/HarnssBar5.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/90_240sx/HarnssBar4.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/90_240sx/HarnssBar2.jpg

[SoSideways]

I've never understood what the little skinnier bar that forms a "hole" between the bigger bar versus the little bar did, like shown in this pic that I quoted from KA-T_240 here:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/90_240sx/HarnssBar6.jpg


BTW, nice harness bar man :)

[KA-T_240]

I use the "loop" so that the extra part of my harnesses don't go sliding around. From what I understand, they used to use a harness that wrapped around the bar to hold in place. But Not sure.

[slw240sx]

you don't rely on that as your only seatbelt do you? that looks extremely unsafe. In an accident that bar can and will swing at your head.

I would suggest taking out the interior panels then making that bar mount in at least one more place on the chassis, ad a 1.8th square to the sheet metal along with a anchor point.

Jon

[sillyvia13]

you don't rely on that as your only seatbelt do you? that looks extremely unsafe. In an accident that bar can and will swing at your head.

I would suggest taking out the interior panels then making that bar mount in at least one more place on the chassis, ad a 1.8th square to the sheet metal along with a anchor point.

Jon

It has a 2nd mount location on a bracket it looks like.
in a lower pic.
A for effort.

Joe I may sell my welder...I need a TIG badly.

[KA-T_240]

It is designed like any other harness bar does. Like the Sparco and Cusco ones. All the bolts are in the spots used for the seatbelts from the factory. If the design is dangerous why would those companies make them like that?

I know its not the same as mounting them to a cage which can't move(at least it shouldn't). I was concerned about the bar moving. Thats why I added the bars that go down. Also, with the angle of the body/ B pillars and how the plates that go back to the bar, it is impossible for it to go up and get to my head, it also would hit the ceiling first.

I plan on getting a cage in the future. It just is not a option at the moment. out of curiousity, how much would those of you that do cages charge for a
6-point?

[Antihero983]

It has a 2nd mount location on a bracket it looks like.
in a lower pic.
A for effort.

Joe I may sell my welder...I need a TIG badly.


LMK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!

[blu808]

Harness bar looks good. From what I see it has 4 mounting points.

gj

[KA-T_240]

Harness bar looks good. From what I see it has 4 mounting points.

gj

You sir are correct!

[Wiisass]

What I don't get it why did you put the small rod bracket on the bar, but then weld on mounts so you could bolt the harness to the bar? Why not wrap the harness around the bar?

And another note, flat stock is horrible under compression. It doesn't look like it will be an issue because in a front impact it would probably be loaded in tension, but just for future reference. And especially a piece that long, it would buckle real quick.

[KA-T_240]

I am not aware of any racing body that allows wrap around style mounting any more.

[Wiisass]

I'm not aware than any santioning body doesn't allow wrap around mounting any more. Do you have anything to prove that? I just checked SCCA and NASA general rules for 2008 in the Driver restraint section and they made no mention that wrap around mounting is not allowed. And why wouldn't it be? A wrap around harness is going to be stronger than a bolted in harness. Just look at the possible failure points. You have a bolt in single shear holding in each shoulder strap. And with the eye mounts the load is concentrated more on a small edge of the harness. But even ignoring that and assuming everything equal, I would trust a roll cage to hold me in place over 3/8" bolts in single shear.

But my main point, was why have the harness guides if you aren't going to use them?

[slw240sx]

maybe its just the camera angles, and how i am judging the angles. i worry about the points that it can move on, it looks as the bar could move at the bolted points, allowing the bar to swing down and forward,even with the down bars it looks like they could all offer movement when forced with a lot of pressure.Thats what 1/8th strip stock? it could bow under forward load which could possibly allow the bars to gain motion. which if that happens, even a few inches, that could be enough to allow you to move to far.
Don't Take this as im trying to knock your work, i just worry about safety. when it comes to building something that is as important as restraints. i like to over build just to be on the safe side.

I think a way to make that design more solid would be to use some small DOM, or even square tubing to mount to the lap belt mount on the rocker to make it form a triangle with the Harness bar and the vertical support. I was also saying maybe make the mounting point on the bar be bolted in at 2 spots on the B pillar, possibly on a horizontal plane and using some plate steel at the bolt locations to help disperse any load it might see.

Jon

[KA-T_240]

I like getting CC. I do not do much fab work. Learning things is good.

I am not really aware of any other place to mount on the B-Pillar. There are some spots but not any that allow placement of a bolt that is of any decent size/able to bear any load with out adding metal and stuff...... I would rather start working on a cage then doing that.

I am confused by what you were trying to suggest for design.

[burnsauto]

about the harness bar...

it looks you put some genuine thought into it, and it came out pretty well...i only have once concern.

granted you used the same mounting points as lets say a cusco cage...its not a cage..and will flex differently..especially when in an accident. from the looks of the photo's, it looks as if you took a hard enough front end hit, it would just move forward..using the bolt on the b pillar as a pivot point.

i know you realized this, and you put the mount on the bottom near the back seat..but that can still pivot...not much...but it can still move.

what would make it work a little better was if the lower piece of flat stock, was welded up near where it meets with the harness bar..this will prevent it from swinging in an accident.

[KA-T_240]

I did not say it mounted to the same spots as a cusco cage. And was not compairing it at all to a cage. I was reffering to the harness bars that sparco and other companys make.

THe one my friend bought(cusco) for his STi, only has 1/4 peaces of like "ready rod" for the support to go down.

[blu808]

KA-T: You were correct with your design based on what sparco used. The other people were correct with their remarks about flat stock bending under load.

I would not worry about it too much. Looks like you have 1/8" thickness on the down bars, and since rotational angle of the harness bar would pull up in a crash, then it would only pull on the flat stock. This was also mentioned.

On that note good points from both parties, but we would prob all agree if we viewed this bar in person.


"No brawling, or its 15 days in the county jail."

[burnsauto]

yeah, its def. a good idea ka-t and the execution of it was pretty good as well :)

beats the hell out of what other people do (ex: bolting the harness down on the floor.....can we say spinal compression?)

[Xracer]

Some stuff ive made...

WRX Exhaust
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/7334/cid1201072211qh9.jpg

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/7533/cid1201072102afg9.jpg

IC piping
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/4034/011008210640rz5.jpg

Cage
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/8742/011008210459ga2.jpg

Back of my phone
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/2427/010508210346xi5.jpg

[nissan240sxkid]

Some stuff ive made...

WRX Exhaust
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/7334/cid1201072211qh9.jpg

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/7533/cid1201072102afg9.jpg

IC piping
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/4034/011008210640rz5.jpg

Cage
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/8742/011008210459ga2.jpg

Back of my phone
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/2427/010508210346xi5.jpg

your good :D

[blu808]

Very nice.

What were the specs on the welding process? Looks like tig on the exh but there is a mig gun sitting next to it.

[KA-T_240]

I know the cage and IC pipes are MIG welded from when I saw them. I can not remember if the WRX exhaust was MIG or TIG. I believe it was TIG though.

[Xracer]

exhaust is tig, cage is mig, ic piping is both (got frusterated with the tig so went back and forth)

I really dont know much about TIG welding i just play around untill it works, the WRX exhaust was DC 70-80amps. no idea what kind of electrode is in there or the size.

[blu808]

Thats cool. hard to tell in the pics but the exh looks cool. Remember when you tig to always sharpen your tungsten when welding steel.

[blu808]

Heres a sr20det tip if you guys dont know this allready.

The stock sr oil pickup is only tack welded in 4 small spots.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/stockoilpickupwelds.jpg

This leads to vibration breaking those tacks and the oil pickup falling off. The end result is a blown motor.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/owned.jpg

The correct way to solve this is to completely clean the metal on the pickup, then using a tig welder (no spatter), weld a thin non penatrive bead around the pickup tube.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/weledoilpickup1.jpg

Then since there was heat applied to the gasket surface it needs to be decked. You can do this with a file.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fileoilpickup1.jpg

2 mins later.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/finishfilepickup.jpg

Perfect flat surface for a strong pickup. Make sure to clean any dirt/shavings off before install.

Hope this might save a engine.


Heres a stock s13 seat my roomate fabricated into a bride seat.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/brideretarded.jpg

[tt99ol]

wow i love this thread
Xracer, or anyone else who knows, how did you get that burnt tip look on the exhaust and on your phone cover, just a propane torch or something hotter? and on the exhaust how did you get it so perfect?

[blu808]

t99ol:

The answer to all fabrication questions is patience and not getting ahead of yourself.

[89singlecamnoob]

i know this is majorly off-topic, but it DOES have to do with fabrication...can someone kindly post the link to the build thread where the guy was doing the full S15 conversion to the S13 hatch? i remember he was using all-metal for the rear fenders and it was a really badass build, isn't finished yet though...should've subscribed to it but forgot :/


feel free to neg rep and shout at me all you want, but i DID search, just couldn't find it for the life of me.


*edit: preferably in PM so we don't cloud up this thread with unneeded junk*

[blu808]

No neg rep for you. That is a good post but his thread is more of body work than fab. Body work is like fab but involves too much bs. I would just like to see actual fab in this thread. Thanks. :-)

[Xracer]

i'll throw up some pics of the intake manifold im working on when im done with it

[burnsauto]

hey i remember that oil pickup trick from when you posted it up with the engine build (which was a sweet build up IMO!)

def. one of the better tricks i learned from you :)

[wannabe_drifter]

Great thread ! it's inspiring !

[slw240sx]

on that WRX exhaust was that 16Ga SS? if so 70-80amps is way too hot, try going down between 35-55amps. you might have to run slower, but you will get penetration.

We just lost the motor in one of our cars because of the oil pickup shearing off, but it sheared off at the bottom the tube was still attached. it looks like the motor was dropped on its pan from a forklift and they put a fresh pan on it to hide the damage. I will be welding the new pickup to be more sturdy.

Is that a Gas lenses your using or a normal cup? i used a #7 i think it is Gas lense for almost everything.

[blu808]

In the oil pickup pic it is just a standard number 5 cup.
I usually use a #6 with a gas lenses.

This is the current setup.
#6 with GL

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/electric125.jpg

[Swerv13]

Im Kinda new on these forums mostly cause i havnt posted much at all. But I had to post on this thread. LOVE all the work you guys did. hope you like mine too. This is the pix of my Cage construction among other things in the project. I copied and pasted this from my blog so I kinda worded it for anyone that could be reading it. Tell me what you think....this was my first time doing any serious fabrication work!

In this photo, i have removed most of the interior, next is the dash and carpeting.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-00-0A_001.jpg
Believe me, the dash was fun to remove. ahhh yes.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-01-1A_002.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-02-2A_003.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-03-3A_004.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-04-4A_005.jpg

and now to remove this black tar looking stuff which is sound deadening material. or as i like to refer to it....Dead Weight.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-05-5A_006.jpg

Im going to use Dry Ice to remove this tar crap. it freezes it and makes it extremly easy to remove. great stuff!
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-17-17A_018.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-20-20A_021.jpg

and now to grind out the chassis seam sealer! this stuff is a messy pain! after i grinded top surface i used an acedline torch and scrapers to get the rest out of the crack. this way i can stitch weld the seams! (also notice the gas tank is removed, always remove this and the ECU before any welding on the car)
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-21-21A_022.jpg

Ugh, that took a long time! ok now for something easy! stiffer engine and transmission mounts from MEGAN RACING JAPAN! They fit KA and SR. So when i find the sr front clip i want (i hope before end of april!) i can still use them!!!
first lift the car, and support the engine/transmission.....
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-12-12A_013-1.jpg
here are the stock mounts....
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-13-13A_014.jpg

and here are the MEGAN RACING mounts!
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-14-14A_015.jpg

OK OK back to business! time to bend some Tubing for the Roll Cage! Im using 1.5" X .120" DOM Tubing. incase you dont know 1.5" is the outside diameter and .120" is the wall thickness.
drawing blueprints with measurments taken from the car, and using the bending die to find the tangent lines.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-24-24A_025.jpg

Time to start bending!!! (the dumbass next to the tubing bender isnt me, haha)
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-06-6A_007.jpg

The Main Hoop is easy to bend! But the A Pillar down bars are the hardest! They are a compound bend! ahhh!
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-23-23A_024.jpg
Okay, now its time to make the mounting plates for the main hoop. it needs to be mounted on a flat surface, so here we go!
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843606-R1-02-2A_003.jpg

and now to make the mounting plate to fit this spot perfectly!
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843606-R1-01-1A_002.jpg

does it fit? OH YES!
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843606-R1-03-3A_004.jpg

OK now to Do fitment of the main parts of the rollcage, and after some fine tuning, metal grinding and some positioning, im going to tack weld them in place. when i am happy with it, i will fully weld it all together!
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843605-R1-08-8A_009.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843606-R1-14-14A_015.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843606-R1-12-12A_013.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843606-R1-09-9A_010.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843606-R1-08-8A_009.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843606-R1-05-5A_006.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843606-R1-04-4A_005.jpg

ok now for the rear down bars, im taking them to the rear strut towers. and im going to use an exsisting hole to run them thru the chassis bracing. something like this...
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843606-R1-07-7A_008.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/infinity42q/843606-R1-06-6A_007.jpg

Thats all the pix i have of this work right now. Ill have more up later. unfortunatly when the chassis was done and i was ready for the new engine the car got hit by a truck and now I have to start over. Next one should be better right?

[blu808]

Wow great work. Nice shop, and great approach. Cant wait to see the finished product.

Are you going to do any gusseting or any dimple died gusseting?

Luke

[Swerv13]

dimple died guesseting was def in the plans before the truck smashed that car. So that wont happen untill i start the next car.

that shop is the Wyotech Chassis Fabrication building in SAC, CA.

[blu808]

really? I didnt know wyotech did anything cool.

any other cool stuff they do?

[Xracer]

Whos got tips on welding aluminum. I get increasingly pissed off everytime i try to weld it. also how about 90 degree joints and aluminum pipe.

[nissan240sxkid]

whats happening when your tryin...I have a miller econo tig and when I use realy thick aluminum I have trouble but welder isnt the best for heavy fab and the duty cycle sucks so I have to go mad slow and let the machine cool.

[nissan240sxkid]

are you prepin the tungsten the right way for aluminum? just a question dont get offended

[Xracer]

i can make nice beads on just flat piece of aluminum but anything that is round (tube) or joints is another story. just getting 2 pieces to join together is the problem.

[slw240sx]

How many amps are you using on Aluminum tube? how are you cleaning it? how are you prepping your tungsten? how thick is your filler? how is your machine setup?

Aluminum can be very tricky to weld, and takes a little bit of time to learn how it reacts

[s13ap]

Hey does anyone know a place that is really good at welding titanium in Orange County Ar.ea???? I have something that needs to get repaired. If it was steel I would just do it myself.

Hey luke your weld lock version 2 is still holdin up mayne! It's got about 50k miles on it now.

[Xracer]

pure tungsten electrode, it is ground to cone (lengthwise) with a small flat end. then an arc is started and it forms a small balled end. metal is cleaned ( sanded with 320 sand paper then hit it with break cleaner and wipe it down.

[blu808]

S13ap. Great! Glad to hear that.

Xracer: Sounds correct. If you are blowing through the metal then try to add a glob of filler metal just to bridge the 2 pieces, one you get it started it will be easy to continue the bead.

Also search on google abut tig welding aluminum tips.

[nissan240sxkid]

a tip for aluminum and cast iron welding is to heat up the pieces your welding with I guess propane or something and then weld...

[Swerv13]

really? I didnt know wyotech did anything cool.

any other cool stuff they do?


Majors include chassis fabrication, high performance drive train and street rod.

[driftstyre]

Just a few photos. I don't document our day to day fabrication too well so I have a few of our older and longer term projects.

240 rear LCA
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/2449-2/rca_finished.jpg
EJ22 Impreza, 593 dyno dynamics whp
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/995-2/top_hood_open.jpg
Titanium 240 exhaust, 3.2 lbs turbo back
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/5583-1/DSCF3045.JPG
EJ25 circuit engine, T04Z
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/6777-2/DCP_1027.JPG
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/6782-2/DCP_1028.JPG
Evo 7 Heatshield
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/1973-2/heatshield.jpg
FD Upper Intake Manifold on FC with Triangular TB to 3" round adaptor
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9524-2/DSCF4728.JPG
V mount for same car w/ oil cooler as well (w/ out schrouding, its in the process now)
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9529-2/DSCF5229.JPG

[Swerv13]

Bill I had no idea id find someone from DentSport here. I love the work your shop does. Hell, id pay you guys to let me work for you. hahaha

[WhiteGLX]

Race seat mounting

removed floor, made subframe for seat to sit ultra low

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0469.jpg

copied design on passenger side, w/out removing floor, no need to there.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0471.jpg

Fabricated back braces for Kirkey Intermediate road race seats.

Design is to distribute loads across the upper shoulder area, not center of back, in the event of emergency only of course.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0015.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0017.jpg

Made bash gaurd for old V-mount setup, dont want one small off track excursion ruining a weekend of fun.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0482.jpg

Also the V-mount
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/V-mount/P1030031.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/V-mount/PDR_0805.jpg

New FMIC setup pics comming soon, custom IC pipes and all.

[DisEpyon]

Man im glad somebody made a fabrication/welding thread on this forum.

here is my small fab project i did today, nothing to big.

Problem was that the flex section of the down pipe was hitting my floor board and that got annoying quick.

Sorry i dont have any pics of the before. I started then realized that i forgot pics, but you get the idea.

my solution to this, cut and weld!!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_1376.jpg

you can see in this pic where the flex pipe was rubbing, the shinny area.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_1378.jpg

here it is all tacked up.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_1379.jpg

first weld
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_1384.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_1387.jpg

Second weld
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_1392.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_1410.jpg

Because i didnt back purge, which doesnt matter on this part(i dont think), i got a little bit of sugaring. Which means i need more practice :)
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_1408.jpg

you can see in this pic where the flex pipe used to rub on the floor board, and the gap that i always wanted.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_1416.jpg

and the finished product, underneath the car and inside the engine bay view.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_1422.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_1423.jpg

[slw240sx]

you will get sugaring no matter what unless you purge it. unless you dont penatrate that is. but those look pretty good! did you just fuse that or use filler?

Jon

[DisEpyon]

Thanks,

I just fused it, filler was not needed, It was only 16 gauge thickness i believe.

some areas looked a little sloppy, because there was some gaps after cutting and grinding and i got it best i could, to fit up tightly. i didnt use a band saw or a table saw or anything like that, all i had was a sawzall. getting a band saw will probably be my next investment.

[blu808]

Great stuff everyone. What type of welder were you using? Feel free to post up some pics of your fab tools as well.

Here are some of my fab tools at my old shop.

http://www.sdp-online.com/images/fabarea.jpg

Great pics Bill.

[mothon]

Looks good brent..Where did you end up finding the stainless at? Did you ever finish that breather you were working on??? How can i talk you into building an intake manifold for my ka?

[gsracer]

handmade brake adapter brackets

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/IMG_2576.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/IMG_2565.jpg




As far as i know the only set of vh45de s14 chassis headers in existence lol
Lincoln mig welder etc



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/VH%20POWER/IMG_5363.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/VH%20POWER/IMG_5363.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/VH%20POWER/IMG_5362.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/VH%20POWER/IMG_5327.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/VH%20POWER/IMG_5326.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/VH%20POWER/IMG_3966.jpg

[Xracer]

crazy stuff guys, looks good. Aluminum is still kicking my ass.

[blu808]

can you post up some pics of your messed up welds? That would tell me alot of what could be wrong.

[DisEpyon]

Looks good brent..Where did you end up finding the stainless at? Did you ever finish that breather you were working on??? How can i talk you into building an intake manifold for my ka?

Thanks matt,

My brother told me that a guy had some in norman, so after class on monday i went down there to pick it up. yea i finished the breather tank and its on and running good, dunno if im allowed to post it in here since all i have is finished pic's. About the custom KA intake manifold ill have to get back to you on that some time, hehe :)

[gsracer]

i tried my had for a while at aluminum with the mig, it was very hit and miss , here are one on the better results i had


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/VH%20POWER/IMG_4004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/VH%20POWER/IMG_4004.jpg
f

[driftstyre]

Luke,
That fab station is really sweet (and clean!). That car in your first post is really crazy.

Also GSRACER, that Q45 engine looks really sweet (I'm sure it will sound badass as well)

Here is our welding station. Our welder is a Linde 350, old ass TIG. Very basic, but works really well. If you can learn to weld on this thing you can weld with anything! Its 30+ years old and works great, all 1100 lbs of it.
We only have a few other tools here but the neighbor we share our complex with is a sheetmetal worker and has every mechanical metal working tool imaginable. He is barely ever here so I can use the lathe, bridgeport, brake, shear etc.
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9611-2/DSCF5231.JPG
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9606-2/DSCF5230.JPG

[nissan240sxkid]

great job everyone nice to see evryones work and people helpin to make it better.....This is the last thing I did for my budy...sorry dont have a close up.....um I have miller econo tig, want to get a linc percision tig though..what do you guys think of the machines?
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x59/BabiDollEvo8/015-1.jpg

[punxva]

great job everyone nice to see evryones work and people helpin to make it better.....This is the last thing I did for my budy...sorry dont have a close up.....um I have miller econo tig, want to get a linc percision tig though..what do you guys think of the machines?
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x59/BabiDollEvo8/015-1.jpg

is that an external gate on a T2 turbo setup i see there :) if so shoot me more info on that, i'm tired of my ka-t overboosting and would rather just run an external gate, if possiable and weld the flapper close

[blu808]

Nice work everybody.


nissan240sxkid:

I have a miller econo tig, and a lincoln precision tig 185. I prefer the lincoln any day. It seems to be much more stable with current, and has more features.

driftstyre: Thanks.

You setup is badass as well. That tig is freakin huge. Must be easy to weld thin material with that one.

[blu808]

Ok. So I had a buisy day at work today and thought I would share it with you guys.

Well after finishing the rack and pinion conversion on the shops car it was time to finish the passenger side header by making the last runner.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab001.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab002.jpg
Gangster welds.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab004.jpg
4th runner completed. Woot
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab006.jpg
Then it was time to weld the runners to the head flange.
I grabbed an old BBC head and bolted it up to prevent any warpage.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab007.jpg
Yup.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab008.jpg
O the gangsterness never ends.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab009.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab010.jpg
Then it was time to pull of the collector and weld up the pipes.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab012.jpg
Finished product. Turned out awesome!
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab014.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab016.jpg

Woot.

Then Rich brought back some radiator and asked me to put a temp sender in it for some reason. So I did that too.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab018.jpg
Make sure to clean the area being welded.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab021.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab022.jpg
Fin
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab023.jpg
Woot.

Then Paul asked me to make some gangster ass endlinks for his camaro racecar (not the orange one)

the one he made on the left.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab024.jpg
ooooooooo the gangsterness is overwhelming.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab025.jpg
Cant beat that.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab033.jpg
Woot...

Then it was time to do some guages in a trans am.

I started by removing the stock guages and used the stock bezel as a template.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab026.jpg

Drilled out the rivits holding it together.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab027.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab028.jpg
Bead blasted it and mounted some guages.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab031.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab032.jpg
Got some abs plastic and made a cover. Turned out factory looking.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab035.jpg
One of my pet peeves is messy wiring. So i took extra time to make the wiring as close to factory as possible.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab036.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab038.jpg
OMG the gangsterness will not end.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab039.jpg

Then I decided since I hadn't done much work today that I would mock up the new GP sports body kit on my Turbo Ls1 FC
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab042.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab043.jpg

What a gangster day.

[DisEpyon]

Very nice work blu808, what kind of filler rod did you use on the header?

here is my machine from when i got it and my set up in the garage.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_0524.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_0527.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_0529.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_0533.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/disepyon/IMG_0551.jpg

[blu808]

Thanks. It would be cool if more people posted replies about my work. Its not exactly easy to stop and take pics all the time while doing this stuff.

[slw240sx]

Are you running back purging on those headers? are they stainless? they look it. There are a few things i would try to change on the last runner on the pass header, mostly alignment and fitments of the pipe segments, its hard to explain over the net, that and the second runner, it looks like you could have used a 45deg bend instead of the section of a U bend on the middle of the runner, i'm a stickler about matching up bends to make them a smooth flowing as possible aesthetically as well as physically. i will waste bend after bend if i have to to get the proper "look" i'm going for. Over all though they look good!

a Tip for getting good cuts in the bends i use either masking tape or electrical tape and wrap it around so its straight and then make my cut to give my self a visual cut line. I don't have a good vertical Bandsaw, so i have to use a PortaBand or sawzaw when i cut Ubends in the bend areas.

here is a Turbo setup i build last year for a Grandam Drag car. T4 turbo 44mm WG.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/l_cea9524aed64913eb8372f09a32c3c73.jpg
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/l_4e6cab8b74b5004d9522b0e257cbb0b4.jpg


And here is my Current Tig Setup Lincoln Precision Tig 275 with water cooler No pulser panel, but i dont like using a pulser. I just grabbed myself a bigger table, i just have to get some plate steel for the top. I love this welder! I hear people complain alot about lincoln welders, but i cant say that i have much to compare against i havent used other brands enough, and this is just easy for me to setup and configure. Its always worked never had any down time.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/IMG_0951.jpg


Haha here is a Aluminum Dash board i started building one night while i had nothing to do, i never finished it.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/alumdashfront.jpg
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/alumdash2.jpg

[blu808]

Of course it was back purged.

If you viewed the header in person it is actually alligned very well. As for the cuts we have an automated bandsaw.

[slw240sx]

I cant wait to get a Automated bandsaw, the shop next to us has a giant DOALL vertical with hydraulic feed and if he moves out im picking it up for a good price from him, along with a 3 axis prototrack CNC.

What kind of rollcage Tube bender do you guys own? Im in the market for one this week and im leaning towards a JD2 model 3, but they are on back order for the next 2 weeks.

Jon

[blu808]

Well i originally wanted to get a tubeshark since they are badass. But I was not approved for the funding. So I got the next best thing It is listed here.

http://www.pro-tools.com/302.htm

[DisEpyon]

Thanks. It would be cool if more people posted replies about my work. Its not exactly easy to stop and take pics all the time while doing this stuff.

Anyways. Is that the precision tig 185? Or the newer 190?
Whatever model it is, looks just like mine and brings back memories from 2 years ago when i got it, unpacked, and setup at my house.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/lukebike2.jpg

I got the 225 version (ready pack and go package deal)

slw240sx - nice work also, how much did that cover for your tig torch hose line cost, or did it come with it?

[cronux]

luke, your work is abosultely sick. i wish i had the skills to weld like you. i mean, i can weld, but my consistancy isnt always there. if you were to suggest a cheap TIG welder for someone on a budget, what would you recommend? as i am used to our huge miller tig from my school..

[slw240sx]

The cover on the torch hoses came with my setup, i actually have to order a new one, i have a habit of setting my torch in my lap, i had the hose coiled up in my lap and the tungsten burned through to my coolant hose. i broke the zipper taking it off. now its held on by about 50 zipties every 6 inches lol.

i would suggest picking up a good used unit, a miller econo tig or a Lincoln precision 185, you can get into a nice rig that will let you do most any light work for 1200 or possibly less. we have a production weld shop here in town upgrading equipment word on the street is they are letting their syncrowaves go for 500$ and up.

[blu808]

Well any tig under 3k will most likely be more difficult to weld with than your big machine at school. The bigger the machine (amps, transformer) the more stable it is at lower power levels, and thinner metal. The cheapest machine i could find when i was in the market was the Miller econo tig 180. I chose the Miller because it had a nicer cart, storage area, a nicer torch (which i have now changed), 5 more amps of power, and a pulser. I also though it looked better. I have both now at work and prefer the Miller any day. I would stay away from the cheaper Chinese welders since they might be hard to fix or get parts/ service for down the road. I have been using my tig for the last 2 years HEAVILY, with no problems. That is why im glad i paid a little extra for a brand name machine. I might upgrade one day, but I can only see myself doing so if I was welding all day long, everyday.

Hope this helps.

[driftstyre]

Luke + Cronux
Our Linde is pretty good at low amps but the high frequency starting is very old technology so below a certain amperage it takes a few seconds for the arc to start. You can pick these up for ~$700-1500 and they work great. Its easy to setup a coolant system with a small radiator and water pump. There is for sure better techology in newer systems. I have welded with top of the line Miller and Lincoln and they are great. The linde is a great value though and would reccommend it to anyone. Its size is a downside but not a problem for many people.

slw240sx, thats a nice turbo setup, and dash too. damn, and that welder.

[blu808]

Bill/driftstyre

Can you give all of us an idea on what it is like welding on ti and if it is similar to welding on any other material such as stainless?
Also can you tell me which gas, tung, and rod you are using?
I have researched it a bit but would like to know what you use.

[2bad240]

made this for my s14, my radio trim was broke and i had a sheet of carbon fiber so i made this.

not finished with it yet, still needs a little work.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/2bad240/100_1166.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/2bad240/100_1163.jpg

[driftstyre]

Luke,
Ti is no different in process to stainless. Most of the Ti in motorsports is very thin wall so it has a reputation for being hard to weld. I personally find it easier to weld 035 wall Ti than 035 stainless. One thing I find is that the weld pool isn't as fluid as stainless. Filler is expensive and hard to find in small diameters (.035 and smaller). I use the sam.e 2% 1/16 tungsten I use for pretty much everything along with 3/32 Ti/Alloy filler

[blu808]

Thanks which gas do you use?

[driftstyre]

Just straight argon.

[Xracer]

i thought i remember hearing somewhere that Ti has to be completly sheilded in gas to weld it?

[slw240sx]

Just straight argon.

have you guys ever tried 95% argon 5% hydrogen?

Jon

[blu808]

no what would the effects of that be?

Good or bad.

[slw240sx]

Its supposed to burn hotter and give better penetration with lower amps.

[jobestudios]

You guys will soon see some more pictures of this, getting an S14 SR and doing a properly ducted vmount intercooler :)
Stripping down
http://www.team-blend.net/jacksonphoto/tubb.jpg

Cutting
http://www.team-blend.net/jacksonphoto/tubc.jpg

Plasma cutting
http://www.team-blend.net/jacksonphoto/tube.jpg

Cardboard mockups first and then plasma cutting the sheet.
http://www.team-blend.net/jacksonphoto/tubf.jpg

Done
http://www.team-blend.net/jacksonphoto/tubg.jpg

:) If you have any questions feel free to ask, I'm still unsure if I want to offer it as a service to customers because the R & I will be the time consuming, however if a customer trailered a shell I would go ahead and do it, still have all the measurements and templates too :)

Car will look totally different soon :)

[blu808]

nice work on the tubs. What gauge sheet did you go with? 16 or 18?

[slw240sx]

Damn that makes me want to fix my plasma cutter. Im getting ready to do a set of tubs later today, and im probably going to have to use some electric shears i bought yesterday, at least they cut good.

[driftstyre]

for thick aluminum I mix in 25% hydrogen. It definitely burns hotter for any given amperage.

Titanium welded for ultimate strength or for scientific/medical use should be completely shielded. For exhaust, it doesn't matter.

[fromxtor]

Luke your welding skills are awesome, wish we had ppl like you local. I could use a few things welded and some tips on mounting my PITA origin rear bumper.

[Ghostdrifter]

How exactly do you purge the weld area? I just bought a lincoln precision Tig 225 and I need to weld up a V band DP for my turbo setup. Also how many amps should I use to weld it, it's 16 gauge 409 Stainless. I'm pretty much a noob at Tig welding so any advice or tips would be appreciated

[slw240sx]

How exactly do you purge the weld area? I just bought a lincoln precision Tig 225 and I need to weld up a V band DP for my turbo setup. Also how many amps should I use to weld it, it's 16 gauge 409 Stainless. I'm pretty much a noob at Tig welding so any advice or tips would be appreciated

for that you can just run a simple backpurge setup. i use a Tee at my tank with dual regulators and a spare gas supply hose and run it into the pipe closing off both ends and having a small hole in the other side to vent out all the air from the pipe. 16Gauge 409 i would run between 35-45amps, using any where from 15-25CFM of gas flow.

[ditch_bound]

Here is a couple things Ive done to my s13


rust repair by strut
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture060.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture061.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture062.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture072.jpg

Battery box
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture089.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture074.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture076.jpg

rear bracing
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture265.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture258.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture244.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture243.jpg


subframe spacers/bushings

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture171.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture177.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/Picture172.jpg

[2bad240]

how did that battery box work out for you?

[Ghostdrifter]

When I use the TIG do I move the torch in a coil or zig-zag pattern like a Mig welder or do I use another pattern.

[tt99ol]

what i learned in a welding class is that zig zag or circles is all personal preference unless there was a big gap then zig zag works better

[Wiisass]

I just finished this one the other day. There's a lot of my other projects on my site if anyone is interested. But I suck at remembering to take pictures a lot of the time, so there's some stuff missing.
http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/main.php

http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/d/3789-3/DSC01316.JPG

http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/d/3798-3/DSC01319.JPG

http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/d/3807-3/DSC01322.JPG

http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/d/3738-3/DSC01291.JPG

http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/d/3786-3/DSC01315.JPG

And the rest of the pics are here:
http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/syn/

Tim

[ditch_bound]

how did that battery box work out for you?

Fine I guess. What do you mean? I actually cut 2" off the bottom of it to keep it away from the wheel since the picture was taken.

I just realized that was you ray.

When I use the TIG do I move the torch in a coil or zig-zag pattern like a Mig welder or do I use another pattern.

Zig zag or what ever you call it would be sufficient. I wouldnt bother getting too crazy with any "patterns" When I weld small stuff at the shop I personally tend to just dip the filler in the puddle. When I weld pipe at work (3" and up) I walk the cup whenever possible.

[blu808]

Technically you shouldn't need to do any motion with the tig torch unless it is to help join 2 thin pieces. Control the bead with your food control.

[DisEpyon]

Nice welds peeps, im fixing to weld in my brothers roll cage this weekend, ill see if i can take some good pics.

Hey ditch_bound,
is that rear brace on the very back that bolts to the floor help any? i was planning on making one my self.

[ditch_bound]

Technically you shouldn't need to do any motion with the tig torch unless it is to help join 2 thin pieces. Control the bead with your food control.

Not every welding machine has a foot control. I agree with you as far as welding small parts but try welding a 30" stainless pipe without moving the torch. I like tig welding but if Im welding a bunch of stuff I would just whip out the mig gun.

[ditch_bound]

Nice welds peeps, im fixing to weld in my brothers roll cage this weekend, ill see if i can take some good pics.

Hey ditch_bound,
is that rear brace on the very back that bolts to the floor help any? i was planning on making one my self.

To be honest with you. I bought the car almost a year and a half ago and have never driven it. I used to work in a fab shop that would let me stay and work on my own shit with free material so I just made whatever I could think of.

[blu808]

Not every welding machine has a foot control. I agree with you as far as welding small parts but try welding a 30" stainless pipe without moving the torch. I like tig welding but if Im welding a bunch of stuff I would just whip out the mig gun.


O. I was referring to the tig welding process. All tig welders have either a foot pedal amperage control, or an aftermarket torch mounted ampertrol. I have both.
Also you shouldn't mig weld stainless. It will become brittle.

[ditch_bound]

O. I was referring to the tig welding process.
Also you shouldn't mig weld stainless. It will become brittle.

I was refering to tig as well I just meant if I was going to be welding a bunch of crap I would rather mig weld it rather then take all day tigging it. Ive built/welded several things MIG welding stainless, not sure why you think it would be brittle. One thing I learned working in the field (construction) is using a flux core stainless wire with a shielding gas works great.

[blu808]

If you are welding on any stainless it could theoretically be possible to properly mig weld stainless if you were using stainless wire, and back purged the tubing being welded.

I was not aware that anyone made flux core stainless mig wire, or why you would want to use flux core on stainless due to the terrible appearance of a flux core weld.

[ditch_bound]

If you are welding on any stainless it could theoretically be possible to properly mig weld stainless if you were using stainless wire, and back purged the tubing being welded.

I was not aware that anyone made flux core stainless mig wire, or why you would want to use flux core on stainless due to the terrible appearance of a flux core weld.

Welds dont have to look pretty but you are right it looks like seagull shit. I actually hadnt seen any stainless flux core until last year. The gas and flux do a pretty good job of shielding the weld from any sugaring.

[blu808]

Well shit. I will have to check that out. But for most of my customers the welds have to look very nice in order to pass approval.

[georgesal]

what kind of tubing bender do you use im in the market for one and im not sure what to get

I just finished this one the other day. There's a lot of my other projects on my site if anyone is interested. But I suck at remembering to take pictures a lot of the time, so there's some stuff missing.
http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/main.php

http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/d/3789-3/DSC01316.JPG

http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/d/3798-3/DSC01319.JPG

http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/d/3807-3/DSC01322.JPG

http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/d/3738-3/DSC01291.JPG

http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/d/3786-3/DSC01315.JPG

And the rest of the pics are here:
http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/syn/

Tim

[ditch_bound]

Im not sure what he uses but I have looked before and I would go with this. Probably the best bang for your buck. You build it yourself but you buy the prints. I think its like $17 for the prints and the materials all depend on how frugal you are.

http://www.gottrikes.com/

Its hard to beat what some companies offer on prebent roll cages though. But if you are like me you would probably want to make your own anyway.

[ditch_bound]

Well shit. I will have to check that out. But for most of my customers the welds have to look very nice in order to pass approval.

Have you ever used Solarflux? Cheap alternative to purging.

[Wiisass]

I'm using the JD2 Model 3 bender. I did a bunch of research and talked to a bunch of people and it seemed like it was the best bet for the money. I think total it was around $700 for the bender, a die set, the floor mount pedastal, handle, degree ring, bend-tech software and something else I'm probably forgetting. It was worth it and it can be upgraded to pneumatic/hydraulic down the road. I haven't felt the need for that other than it that was done it could be made mobile rather than fixed to the floor. But once you get the hang of it, it makes things so much easier.

And the bending software was a nice touch. Measuring and figuring out where to start bends isn't hard, it just takes longer than plugging in numbers and having something else do it for you. And for what I paid for the software, I made back in the amount of time I saved. And it lets me save all my different templates so I can call them up again later.

And for prebent stuff, from what I've seen, the fitment isn't that great. For what you'll save, you'll spend more time messing with it and trying to get things to line up. I mean you can make them work, but it's not the quality that I would want. But buying a bender can be expensive if you aren't going to use it much.

Tim

[slw240sx]

I just bought a JD2 model 3 today with the 1-3/4 die set, the total came out to 564.00 shipped to my shop, They are on a 1-2week back order, I hope it actually shows up, i bought from a random internet supplier. I opted for no stand, and no handle. i have a scrap yard a block from the shop where i can get the materials to build both for 10$. It does come with a Degree ring for the price i paid.

I will probably buy the software later down the road once i'm doing more cars then 240's, i have already done a few so i dont really need it yet.

where do you guys buy your tubing from? I have a great steel manufacture that is about 20mins away, i would hate to have to order it from a chassis shop or a wholesaler. i was getting material quotes around 5-6$ per foot through those types of places i just cant see paying that when i want to buy 100-500 feet at a time.

[Wiisass]

I get steel from a local place around me. What size and material were they quoting $5-6/ft for? I could see smaller places trying to sell 4130 for that, but for mild steel that's about twice what I pay for 1.75x0.095 or 1.75x0.120.

[driftstyre]

Call AED motorsports in Indy (www.aedmotorsports.com). The people who work there are awesome and have everything you could need as far as tubing goes.

Tim,
that cage looks awesome! I've wondered how that software is and have been wanting to buy it. Can you model manifolds on it?

[Wiisass]

Thanks Bill. The version of the software I'm using is the base stuff. So it's all 2d. 3d bends I figure out using a lot of math, but I finally think I figured it out so I can get the weird bends exactly where I want them. So this version wouldn't be the best for manifolds. But they do have a couple other versions that could work, but I don't have any experience with them, so I don't want to say one way or another. Although there was one guy on here who designed a manifold in Solidworks or Inventor and it seemed like it made some things easier for him. It was the guy doing the RB in the E30 or BMW something. Just another idea.

Tim

[atutt]

Out of curiosity, how many people are welders by trade here? And I don't mean people who just know how weld. I mean people who actually weld everyday for a living?

[bardabe]

Out of curiosity, how many people are welders by trade here? And I don't mean people who just know how weld. I mean people who actually weld everyday for a living?

I am, been doing it for the past 6 months of my life (since i got back from NC) im pretty good MIG, training in Tig, im already graduated SS and Mild Steel, i'm working on my aluminum skilzzzzz

[blu808]

I weld everyday at work. It depends on what im doing but usually about 1/3 of my day is tig welding.

[ByeByeSti]

ehhhhh :( this is like my third time welding and the welds came out like crap cuz there was some paint left over but w/e then i decided to make a tub for the first time ever.. well it came out a bit big and the fiberglass was a bitch. also first time fiberglassing too. but hey gotta start somewhere.


http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u115/PatPayne1201/s14-020.jpg



http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u115/PatPayne1201/s14-019.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u115/PatPayne1201/cougar005.jpg

[blu808]

Good attempt. I would reconsider cutting and welding to that extent until you can produce something acceptable on some scrap metal.

Not trying to make you feel bad, just saying it was a good attempt with poor execution.

Also what did you fiberglass?

[ByeByeSti]

when i started i was like hmmm absolutely no clue whats going on right now but im going to make the attempt by other pics and stuff ive seen on the forums so far. if you look at the bottom pic thats fiber glass i will never use the cloth again from now on matt only or that bondo glass stuff

[Chrischeezer]

well at least you broke the ice for me.
im not a good welder at all, but heres my stich welds and spot welds.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/ChrisCheezer/shoot-013.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/ChrisCheezer/shoot-011.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/ChrisCheezer/shoot-006.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/ChrisCheezer/strut-tower-far.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/ChrisCheezer/floor-plate.jpg

[blu808]

Just so you and everyone knows.

Some tips on sheet metal welding:

Sheet metal warps when welded on continuously. Solution: Make small welds or tacks every inch or so. Also dont weld in a line. Weld in one spot then go to another area and weld. Spread it out as much as possible.

Tips on welding in general:
The cleanness of the area to be welded will determine how well the weld turns out. You should make cleaning a step in the welding process. Also consider it a prerequisite before welding is even possible to have the cleanest metal possible. I think of it like this. If the metal can be cleaner, it will be before the welder is turned on.

Also some tips on joining 2 pieces together.

The only thing besides what i just said above.

Fit Fit Fit Fit Fit. This goes for aluminum, stainless, inc, ti, cromo, steel.
The closer the fit the better the end result. Easier to weld, cleaner welds, smaller beads, more even welds. I have had customers think the welds I am showing them are a machine weld, due to gapless fitment.

[Jung918]

^ good info. I got a millermatic 140 using .24 wire recently and looking to stitch weld the chassis. Do you have any tips on that? Is it just tack welds between the stock tack welds or should I make once inch beads? Which part of the vehicle are the must do areas in stitch welding?

Another question: For prep, is it okay to use a flap disk or should I use a wire wheel.
How thick is the metal on the chassis?

[Matej]

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u115/PatPayne1201/cougar005.jpg
Not to be a downer but that most likely qualifies your car as totaled.

[CursedGTR]

Not to be a downer but that most likely qualifies your car as totaled.

Pobably not totalled just needing to be refined.

If your welding skills suck ass and you want to make a fiber tub, I would go ahead and measure everything out and then make tubs out of cardboard to make sure everything fits and is up to par with the cardboard models.

Then go and get some foam or other mold making materials and make a plug. Then make yourself a female mold from the plug. Then use them both to make a compression mold and make some fiber tubs.

To mount them in, you could use resin and cloth to mold it all in but I would go with something like a small piece of sheet metal on all of the joining areas and attach it with some hex heads or something that way when you fuck it all up you can remove it and repace it.

I have seen this approach here in Japan on a couple of cars, results vary widely. I am a big fan of sheet metal tubs but fiber ones can be functional and look good if done right.

I am working on a Fiber dash mold right now and will hopefully post up my results soon. I am working on busting the vinyl down slightly right now in order to build a smooth surface to work with.

Brian

[ByeByeSti]

thanks guys, i kinda had no clue what i was doing but ive been going through cursedgtr's s15 build and gavsters s14 build and a couple others. should i just cut mine back out? and go with a different approach or what or will i be able to fix it with a bit more fiberglass. i have thin sheet metal under neath it but the cut didnt come out to good and it was a bit off so i fiberglassed overit and was going to try smoothening everything out to try and make it look clean but im also going ka-t with a gt35r turbo i believe so i dont know if any piping will be in the way or what? please help me!!! haha

[GSXRJJordan]

^ good info. I got a millermatic 140 using .24 wire recently and looking to stitch weld the chassis. Do you have any tips on that? Is it just tack welds between the stock tack welds or should I make once inch beads? Which part of the vehicle are the must do areas in stitch welding?

Another question: For prep, is it okay to use a flap disk or should I use a wire wheel.
How thick is the metal on the chassis?

I'm also extremely interested in what you guys have to say about this, because I'll be doing the same (with the same welder/wire) on my S14 soon.

Luke, Tim, Jon - you guys are awesome for keeping this thread going :)

[inertiaticism]

I just stitched mine, and I don't think I could have done it without a flap wheel.
Whoever invented those things should be nominated for a nobel prize.

One tip, keep a knotted wire wheel for removing seam sealer and a worn out flap wheel for paint removal.
I say worn out because I'm finishing out a spool of flux core and keep a lot of 80 and 60 grit flap wheels around for cleaning up my ugly welds and removing the grip of slag/spatter that fuckscore leaves behind. So I have a lot of worn out 60 grit flapwheels, and they're great.
They're still abrasive enough to cut through paint like nothing, but not like a new flapwheel where you can gouge sheetmetal pretty badly if you catch the corner of the disc on something.
But a knotted wire wheel is the best thing I've found so far for removing seam sealer. Also, wear goggles and make sure the inside of the car is free of anything you think you could boner up with an errant spark.
I rarely wear goggles, but am going to start after getting a piece of gooey, hot, melted seam sealer on my eyelid.

It also sucks when you do the engine bay before stripping the interior out and start a fire on the interior side of the firewall when stitching the back side of the wheelwell. The asphalt crap on the floor burns like hell and smells awful.

Oh yeah, and cover your windows with a wet towel if you are welding right next to it. Spatter pits glass and once it's pitted, it's a pain in the ass to clean for the rest of time because your paper towel hang ups and gets all shredded and stuff.

[atutt]

Just so you and everyone knows.

Some tips on sheet metal welding:

Sheet metal warps when welded on continuously. Solution: Make small welds or tacks every inch or so. Also dont weld in a line. Weld in one spot then go to another area and weld. Spread it out as much as possible.

Tips on welding in general:
The cleanness of the area to be welded will determine how well the weld turns out. You should make cleaning a step in the welding process. Also consider it a prerequisite before welding is even possible to have the cleanest metal possible. I think of it like this. If the metal can be cleaner, it will be before the welder is turned on.

Also some tips on joining 2 pieces together.

The only thing besides what i just said above.

Fit Fit Fit Fit Fit. This goes for aluminum, stainless, inc, ti, cromo, steel.
The closer the fit the better the end result. Easier to weld, cleaner welds, smaller beads, more even welds. I have had customers think the welds I am showing them are a machine weld, due to gapless fitment.

Yay! Someone knowledgeable with good info! lol.
I couldn't have said it better.

[slw240sx]

when doing seam welding, keep it in a ventilated area, keep water around, fires can and do happen sometimes. I use a variation of tools, Long handled gasket scrapper, knotted wire wheel,Flap disks, Rol-Loc wheels with Scotchbrite wheels, and sanding disk wheels. Propane torch,WD40.

ill post some pictures of the latest car we are doing a chassis down build of.

Jon

[ditch_bound]

Out of curiosity, how many people are welders by trade here? And I don't mean people who just know how weld. I mean people who actually weld everyday for a living?

Union Pipewelder. Been Welding for about 7 years.

[ditch_bound]

when doing seam welding, keep it in a ventilated area, keep water around, fires can and do happen sometimes. I use a variation of tools, Long handled gasket scrapper, knotted wire wheel,Flap disks, Rol-Loc wheels with Scotchbrite wheels, and sanding disk wheels. Propane torch,WD40.

ill post some pictures of the latest car we are doing a chassis down build of.

Jon


I agree. I would stay away from a flapper wheel though. It would be really easy to grind through the thin metal. I used a propane torch, putty knife, and a wire wheel with great results.

I prefer using small tacks mayber 3/4" to 1" long if for no other reason it looks better. I think the small little spot welds looks shitty. I tried to find more pics of mine but am having no luck.

A fire extinguisher is a great idea also. My undercoating kept catching on fire while I was welding my car alone. That shit gave me a headache.

[Wiisass]

How did no one mention acetone and a rag, probably one of my favorite tools. Pick up a cheap spray bottle from Home Depot/Lowes/etc and fill it up.

As for other tools, beefy wire wheel on an angle grinder or the tattoo remover (I don't know the actual name, but its like a wire wheel except all the wires are a little thicker and stick straight out, it can remove everything). A torch is good to help break up the sealer in tight spots, then I use o-ring/dental picks to dig it out. A variety of scrapers and razor blades. Scotchbrite of varying roughness, scotchbrite disks on the 90* die grinder. And I'm sure there's some other things.

I pretty much clean it off and dig out as much as possible. Wipe it down with acetone and scotch brite to scrub off anything else and then wipe it down with acetone and a clean rag. And then the area is ready to weld. I usually get the metal shiny so I know its clean.

As for how to do the actual welds, I've seen so many different ways. I like the small beads, 3/4-1" long. Spread around the seams that are getting welded. Just make sure to move around a lot and not just do one place at a time. It was said before, but should be said again. Putting too much heat into the sheet metal could pull it and tweak the chassis.

And if you haven't done it yet, you'll soon realize that nissan sheetmetal sucks. It's not consistent and you may have trouble with blowing through. I stitched a car, granted it wasn't the cleanest chassis in terms of rust which I was also fixing, but I would use the same settings and I would weld a little, then come back to that same spot a little later and the next bead would blow through. I usually end up doing several tacks on top of each other instead of a continuous bead when it gets like this.

[Wiisass]

I prefer using small tacks mayber 3/4" to 1" long if for no other reason it looks better. I think the small little spot welds looks shitty. I tried to find more pics of mine but am having no luck.

A fire extinguisher is a great idea also. My undercoating kept catching on fire while I was welding my car alone. That shit gave me a headache.

I didn't see that you had posted this when I wrote my response. But I totally agree with the first statement.

The second one is also a very good recommendation. I know I've had stuff burst into flames near where I was welding many times. Usually it's the acetone soaked rag that I just cleaned the area with. Occasionally it has been what I was wearing. One time it was the hood on my sweatshirt.

Tim

[ditch_bound]

I didn't see that you had posted this when I wrote my response. But I totally agree with the first statement.

The second one is also a very good recommendation. I know I've had stuff burst into flames near where I was welding many times. Usually it's the acetone soaked rag that I just cleaned the area with. Occasionally it has been what I was wearing. One time it was the hood on my sweatshirt.

Tim

Yeah I actually did use acetone but i did my car over a year ago and forgot about it. I use to stick weld alot and I couldnt tell you how many times I have caught on fire. Its scary the first two times but after that it really pisses you off because buying clothes every week is a pain in the ass and also gets real expensive:-/ I should take some pictures of all the holes in my attire.

Have you ever had a weld bb go down your ear? That fuckin sucks. Imagine the sound of sizzleing skin (kinda like bacon) but amplified because, well.... Its in your ear! I also have a very good habit of wearing earplugs everytime I stick or mig weld. It will only take you one time and you will do the same.

[ByeByeSti]

so should i try and salvage what ive created haha or just chop that shit out and start over on it? or just skip this step haha

[blu808]

TO be honest. If I were in your shoes I would chop everything out. Clean it up as much as possible, then go find a empty front clip for $20 from a 240 guy and practice making some tubs, and stitch welding those.

Luke

[sillyvia13]

My New OLD! welder
1973 Airco 300amp heliwelder
watercooled
very nice got it at a VERY VERY VERY GOOD Price, good enough to drive 9 hours.
I will be adding a lot of posts to this thread in future! need to find a good metal supplier! and go from there...TIG is by far the best.
http://a980.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/26/l_412fb190934f9e661fbb4433a5ead4cb.jpg
http://a745.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/96/l_747e93be112460bc8f0b13041c203e80.jpg

[blu808]

Ok. So I have not posted pics in a few days. Here is why. I was designated to fab the header from hell.

This is a full custom header to compliment the passenger side one I made last week.

This is why it is the header from hell. The runners are 2-1/4" in diameter :cool: and they have to fit between a big block and the frame. O did i mention that there is a 1" diameter steering shaft going down the middle? That leaves me with only 2-1/2" max on each side of the shaft.

Fun :wtf:

Anyways. So after bolting the flange to the head, I started on the 3rd runner.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1004.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1005.jpg


Then mocked that up. Shit this is going to be fun.

Not much room. Keep in mind this single runner is larger than a 240sx stock exhaust.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1006.jpg

Then I got really buisy and didnt have time to take pics. So here is after making the rest of the 3rd runner, and the other front tubes.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1038.jpg

Then i made the 4th runner.

Cut some madrel bend 304 stainless.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1025.jpg

Then I welded it up. Here is my back purging setup. Allways back purge with stainless.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1027.jpg

Added the down tube.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1037.jpg

Tig welding goodness. Sorry my camera sucks and wont focus on the bead.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1028.jpg

Just to give you guys an idea on the bead size. Here is a comarison pic with a sharpie cap in the pic. Yes the beads on the welds are smaller than the diameter of the pocket clip on the pen cap. So about the diameter of a tooth pick.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1036.jpg

Yes it fits.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1040.jpg

2nd runner made.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1041.jpg

More gangster shit.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1042.jpg

Then I went to mock up the oil filter relocation bracket and noticed the custom aluminum oilpan does not clear. :cj: So I threw it on the mill and made some room.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1022.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1024.jpg

Then I went insane and mocked up the remaining tubes.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1014.jpg

Sexy

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1013.jpg

Wow

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1012.jpg

Floppy pasta.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1011.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1017.jpg

Porn

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1016.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1015.jpg

With the blower.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1018.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1019.jpg

Skeet

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1020.jpg

Yum

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1048.jpg

Cool temper colors on the welds.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1045.jpg

While welding the tubes.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1043.jpg

O yea then after kicking ass on that header and making the owner of shop excited, I finished the firebird dash that I fabbed up last week.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fab1007.jpg

Whew, what a day.

Please comment guys.
:naughtyd:

[Wiisass]

Nice header. But I don't think those suspension bearings are going to like that much heat right there. Are you planning on shielding them at all. I'm talking about the upper control arm one that looks like it's zerk fitting has been blocked by the header and that rod end holding the steering shaft in place. That also looks like a really steep angle on the lower u-joint on the steering column. I mean it would be fine for street driving, but if the thing will see any performance driving it could lead to some weird feedback at the steering wheel due to the big difference in angle between the two u-joints.

But the header looks sweet.

Tim

[blu808]

Tim. That steering system is actually a rack and pinion setup if you look closely. The camaros came with a steering box setup. The angle is fine, and there is no bind in the setup. The manufacturer of the steering system is Unisteer. Everything on the steering is set to thier specs.

The zerk fitting for the upper control arm has about 1/2" clearance and will be fine from the heat. We are also double heat barrier coating the headers.

[Wiisass]

Luke, I didn't mean that the steering would bind. I mean weird feedback due to out of phase motion from the big differnce in angle on the u-joint. Meaning that there could be some loss from the steering wheel to the rack throughout the range of steering angle. It's kind of hard to explain, but it can be a problem with u-joints. Essentially a non-linear wheel angle to rack travel curve.

And I figured you were going to heat shield/wrap/coat the headers. It just looked like one of the runners was sitting on top of that zerk fitting which would probably get that grease hotter than it's supposed to be and cause it to break down much earlier than expected.

Tim

[ByeByeSti]

okay ill go kill myself now after seeing that haha. i think ill cut out the tub and remake a smaller one and take a bit more time on it. thank you blu808 ill start with cardboard this time and make sure this shits done right and then repost a new pic for ya

[blu808]

Haha. I just looked at the pics. In those pics it is sitting on the fitting. After adjustment and now welding them up it has 1/2" clearance.

Good eye.

As for the steering shaft angle creating different force per rotational angle I agree. But this is actually going to be a power steering setup, so it should be fine. But yea.. On a manual rack it would be noticable.

[babowc]

wow
thats one CRAZY lookin header.

how do you get that taken off, if you ever needed to?

[blu808]

It comes out if you remove the steering shaft.

4 allen screws.

[SoSideways]

wow
thats one CRAZY lookin header.

how do you get that taken off, if you ever needed to?

I was just about to ask that too hahahaha




Luke, when you take close up pictures like that, find the button on your camera that looks like a flower. Turn that on, then your camera will focus on the close up shit.

That's the macro button, it tells your camera that you're trying to take close up pictures of something, so it will focus to shit that's close to you. I have no idea what the macro length is on your camera, so I cannot say definitively you can take pics of things that are only an inch away from the lense, but it should help you taking focused pics of like the beads and stuff like that.

Just remember to turn it back off before you try to take normal "far away" object pics, or else it won't focus.

[hstylez]

Nice work blu, those beads look great and that header is just nasty!

[ByeByeSti]

oh wow, teach me your ways master! blu those welds are so cleannnn good work sir

[ditch_bound]

:squint: :squint: :squintd: My New OLD! welder
1973 Airco 300amp heliwelder
watercooled
very nice got it at a VERY VERY VERY GOOD Price, good enough to drive 9 hours.
I will be adding a lot of posts to this thread in future! need to find a good metal supplier! and go from there...TIG is by far the best.
http://a980.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/26/l_412fb190934f9e661fbb4433a5ead4cb.jpg
http://a745.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/96/l_747e93be112460bc8f0b13041c203e80.jpg

I know you. :) Who welds in dockers and a dress shirt? That thing is a dinosaur.

[ditch_bound]

Hey blu, you tape off the ends of the pipe you are purging before welding right? Imo on some of that stuff I would use solarflux. It would be easier then purging, work just as good, and be more cost effective. What do you purge with anyway?

[blu808]

thanks guys.

Yes I block off the end of the pipe where the hose is entered. Then I make a small opening on the other end to allow constant gas flow.

[slw240sx]

Ill post up some pictures of the wheels tubs i started building tonight, i dont know if i am going to like the finished product, so i may spend all this time only to throw it in the dumpster. They might come out decent though, this is only my second or third time doing any real sheet metal fabrication like this.

Jon

[Wiisass]

Jon, are you making the tubs from scratch or using some type of fender tub/pre-existing shape for the tubs?

If you're doing it from scratch, I have a good method that will make things easier for you. Cut the inside profile first. And then cut two thinner strips that are the same contour as the inside profile. Tack these two pieces to the piece that will make up the top of the fender tub. This will allow the fender tub to follow the exact contour of the inside profile. Then trim to fit, remove the ribs, weld in place and your done.

Something like this:
http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/gallery/d/1398-1/DSC00524.JPG

Tim

[debby]

wow, super great job! hope to see some more pics soon!!!

[fromxtor]

Luke where did you get that plastic to refurb that gauge area?

[slw240sx]

Tim,
actually i did somthing similar ill get photos tomorrow. I cut out my main ARCH then i cut out my cover that is the tub,next i cut little .5-.75" wide strips of sheet metal and cut them to about 1" long and bent them into L's, i tacked them to the arch then tacked the tub to them along the contour of the arch, it actually came out really flush around the edges. The main part im focusing on tomorrow will be the flushed in fuse/relay box for the factory harness. i want to mount it in the tub sorta.

I also plan on adding some Ribs that run left to right all through the inside of the tub to help reinforce it incase we shred a tire, i dont want it to beat the sheet metal all to hell.

I am also dealing with a chassis that has been cut in the front and a new front welded to it right where the tubs seat, there is alot of weld/bondo/seam sealer all where i need stuff to fit tight. It kinda sucks, but nothing a grinder and welder cant fix.

Jon

[slw240sx]

Luke where did you get that plastic to refurb that gauge area?

i buy most of mine from partsexpress.com, they used to be about 3blocks from our shop. You can also try stereo shops, other then those i dont know where one might get it.

Jon

[fakts13]

hi, just noticed this thread after being a member (lurker) for so long, so I thought I'd show a few humble jobs I've done over a while

650-ish hp civic fuel system and misc. brackets:

5/8" OD SS tubing for feed 3/8" OD SS for return
various aluminum brackets (I prefer working with aluminum stuff since I don't have a belt sander yet and making little details like rounding off corners nicely is MUCH easier with alum.)

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb41/brightsideperformance/engine_bay.jpg

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb41/brightsideperformance/fuel_return.jpg

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb41/brightsideperformance/fuel_sump.jpg

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb41/brightsideperformance/undercarriage.jpg

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb41/brightsideperformance/undercarriage2.jpg

This bend right here is a PAIN!!!!!!! especially since I used SS tubing.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb41/brightsideperformance/undercarriage4.jpg

Wish I had a mill to make making brackets like these quicker and neater
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb41/brightsideperformance/regulator_vacuum_block.jpg

Bulkhead bracket is kinda hard to see....
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb41/brightsideperformance/bracket2.jpg

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb41/brightsideperformance/pump_filter_setup.jpg

Can't find my photos for this other car, so I had to steal them from my customer on his forum:naughtyd:

Not much, just made the bracket for the oil tank.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb41/brightsideperformance/mycivic029.jpg

Line lock setup
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb41/brightsideperformance/mycivic034.jpg

When I find my other photos I'll share some more if anyone's interested. I need to find that s13 I worked on a couple years ago. did a similar fuel line setup on that with a Weldon pump.

Edit: and I'll try to find more weld photo's too, which seems to be what most people are looking for on this thread

[blu808]

fakts13: Really nice work. Those lines are awesome. That is usually where people skimp out. Did you really make that oil tank bracket? It is sick!

fromxtor: There is actually a chain of plastic stores in cali called tap plastics. They have a location next to my shop.

One thing on the wheel tubs. Everyones work looks really good. One way to get the radius pieces for the fenders is to get a 55 gallon drum from a supply store for $20 and cut it up. They have enough metal to make about 12 fenders. lol.
Sounds ghetto, but if you are making these at home and dont have a slip roller. Why not?

http://www.arizonabarrels.com/images/55_gallon_metal_large1.jpg

[ROUGE180]

OMG BLU808!! You have some mad skills. How long have you been doing this? Maybe I missed the answer to that Q on one of these pages. I can't wait to see a vid or something when the car is done. Great work

[sildrift86]

bitchesss!!!!

you dont realize how much i envy your guys talent…:drool:

maybe one day ill be able to do the same:x:

[fakts13]

Thanks blu808. yah, that bracket took a while to cut and file the ends round match the peterson bracket. The drum idea is pretty clever, I never would have thought of that. The only thing we've made out of those drums were BBQ's.
fakts13: Really nice work. Those lines are awesome. That is usually where people skimp out. Did you really make that oil tank bracket? It is sick!

fromxtor: There is actually a chain of plastic stores in cali called tap plastics. They have a location next to my shop.

One thing on the wheel tubs. Everyones work looks really good. One way to get the radius pieces for the fenders is to get a 55 gallon drum from a supply store for $20 and cut it up. They have enough metal to make about 12 fenders. lol.
Sounds ghetto, but if you are making these at home and dont have a slip roller. Why not?

http://www.arizonabarrels.com/images/55_gallon_metal_large1.jpg

[ditch_bound]

check out my new top mount intercooler

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/ditch_bound/mufflerintercooler.jpg

[chibo]

check out my new top mount intercooler


That's not an intercooler, it's a plenum for a blow through setup.

[2bad240]

That's not an intercooler, it's a plenum for a blow through setup.


i think he knows that, he was being funny.

[chibo]

i think he knows that, he was being funny.

Oh :squint:... Now I look like an idiot. :rofl:

[firelizard]

I must be the idiot because I don't get it.

edit: looked it up. looked for the carburetor. got the joke.

[ditch_bound]

Oh :squint:... Now I look like an idiot. :rofl:

I just said intercooler cuz ive got a subaru with top mount and thats what it reminded me of. I guess its a little creative to use a muffler but....... nah its stupid.

[ditch_bound]

great now I have negative rep cuz I posted a stupid pic? cool.

[kingston240]

So, does anyone have tips for welding steel overhead/ vertical in a tight situation? think under the car.

Im using a Millermatic DVI2 with 0.030 solid core wire and mystery gas. I have to find out what it is. I asked my dad what he got when he filled it up and he didnt know.

-Matt

[chibo]

I just said intercooler cuz ive got a subaru with top mount and thats what it reminded me of. I guess its a little creative to use a muffler but....... nah its stupid.
It is pretty creative, I've seen it around a few times now... guess it must work decently.

[blu808]

kingston240: Thanks matt.

For welding overhead you are most likely getting chunky spattered welds? You need to turn up the gas flow for overhead work. A good rule of thumb is that a mig welder should sound like bacon frying in a pan. Turn up the gas until the bead is consistant.

ditch_bound: Lets try to keep this thread serious.

fakts13: Your right they have many uses. wheel tubs, BBQ, trash can, ect.

sildrift86: Thanks. Practice makes perfect.

ROUGE180: Thanks. Alot of other people on this thread have awesome skills as well. I have been building stuff and fabbing stuff ever since I can remember. one year for x mas when I was 4 my dad gave me a cordless drill. Within an hour I had taken almost everything in the house apart. O man was I in trouble.

[blu808]

I already posted some of these pics. But ehh.

Here is some pics of a turbo kit I am making for s13, s14, fc3s with ls1/ls2 engines.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fc2.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/fc5.jpg

S14

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject001.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject002.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject003.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject005.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject006.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject007.jpg

Also here is a cage I built for that car.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject008.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject010.jpg

Custom rear firewall

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject016.jpg

Cool x bars.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject014.jpg

Fender brace.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject013.jpg

Pink sdp weld locd version 4

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject012.jpg

Then I murdered out my 929rr. Metalic charcole/ satin black.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/turboproject027.jpg

[GSXRJJordan]

^^^ Stock CA model 929! I had one of those, from 2001 to 2004, then I got spanked by a GSXR1k and never looked back =P Paint doesn't look too bad :)

When my pops and I was looking at boosting the Z06, I realized how friggin hard it is to find room for two turbos and all the associated piping with a LSx in the bay... then there's the issue of actually makign the power to make it all worthwhile, and not blowing the piston lands on #7... The Vortec turned out to be the simple option, and works very well. ~530rwhp @ 6psi. What kind of prep was done to those LSx's, and what kind of numbers are you hoping for?

I sure to miss the turbo spool in the 'vette that I have in the S13.

[blu808]

I will post up more numbers on the turbo stuff once we actually dyno. I dont want to give out false numbers.

Anyway. The 929 is fun. I am more into knee dragging thank doing drag runs and with the gearing and mods I have it can smoke my friends 06 gsxr 750, and my buddies tl1000r, so its fast enough. Its really just a beater bike anyways.

As for motor prep. The obvious fuel system, with 60# injectors, 2 bar map sensor, major tuning on our dyno with hp tuners, and 91 octane. With all the lsx cars we boost. we regularly see 550 whp on camaros, vettes, ect. with stock engines. Most of the hype around the internet of people blowing shit up is because it is not tuned correctly.

After we have a good tune for the shop car we will be including that map with the turbo kits. Then I will be throwing in our 383 stroker ls1 which is being built right now for 950-1000 whp. say goodbye to the tranny, clutch, rear end, axles, and whatever is connected to them. lol

[GSXRJJordan]

^^^ Wow. That's constructive. Luke, please don't get discouraged :) Oh look ditch, your green square is now red.

Can't wait to see the finished turbo kit! There's a lot of interest, and not very many kits that are durable (lots of cracking near the flanges, because it's so hard to support the turbo's weight), or make as much power as a simple Vortec. I know you'll do the work to do it right, which is what makes me excited :)

[wannabe_drifter]

blu808: I usually see manifold that try to have equal lenght runners(or tubes ? I don't know). But yours is not like that, is this affecting performance in any way ? (talking about the gto engine)

[blu808]

A long runner manifold or equal length would be beneficial to performance because it equals out the pulsing effect from each cylinder. It also is less restrictive.

The manifold I built is called a log style manifold. It is actually a very common style of manifold, and many cars use that design.

So yes it would be better to use a equal length long runner manifold, but considering it is turbo charged, and that the ls1 makes so much exhaust cfm's it will work just fine with the log style.

[fromxtor]

Log manifold ftw, keep up the awesome work luke.

[slw240sx]

alright, i took some time saturday night to drink/work on the wheels tubs on one of our drift cars.I didn't get very far as i went through the orginal design and a few other variations. i made a bunch of cardboard templates and eventually built a rough draft of the one i think we will end up finishing off.

the cardboard templates... Thanks USPS.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/Wheeltub_templates.jpg
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/wheeltub_template1.jpg
Took me a little time to get this all cut out and fitted still doesn't fit a 100% how i wanted, but its close enough. i will get some pictures from the bottom of the tub to show the way i tacked it together.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/wheeltub_firstversion.jpg
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/wheeltub_v10_overhead.jpg
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/Wheeltub_v10_fronts.jpg
This is the tub with the start of the flush mount relay box. I had this vision in my head, but im still not sure i will can pull it off as clean as i would like. I am still pretty new to sheet metal fabrication, with no formal training and learning basically everything i know on my own i figure i can teach myself over time. Sheet metal is cheap and i dont mind wasting it like with tube.

Once i can get the wiring harness all back to how its ran stock i should beable to mount the box and tub to make sure final fitment and look is what i am going for, right now the tub has to sitt off because of how i have the harness pulled into the bay.
This car was in a wreck and had the whole section infront of the towers replaced, and they did a really bad welding job on it, i cut the fender rails apart again and pulled the harness into the bay so i could cut the tub areas out, the owner a friend of mine decided to stitch weld the strut towers and the place i cut the fender rails back together.... now i have to clean off all his welds and recut the fender rails. FUN....
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/wheeltub_profile.jpg
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/Wheeltub_overhead.jpg
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/WheelTub.jpg


Completely unrelated, but here is a log manifold i made last year its a EvoIII big16G turbo on a Sr20det for a car we are working on, it will hopefully get to make it into the NOPI series this year.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/ForcedFabllc/Evo3_ChrisBalthis.jpg

[widegts]

i see a beer! haha.

that is very innovative, using the template! hmmmmm i like!

[blu808]

Ok heres another fabrication project update.

So at work I decided to start building the exhaust system.

We were going to use 3.5" tubing all the way back to the x pipe, but the tranny cross member was sitting too low. We want to maximize ground clearance, and have the frame be the lowest part of the car.

The solution. Fabricate some round to oval collectors all while maintaining the same cubic area.

Well here is what we started with.

A v band, welded to a 3.5" piece of mandrel bent tubing. welded to 2 triangles, that are welded to a custom made piece of 2.5" x 7" oval tubing.
All tig welded together.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit007.jpg

Yes that was a pain in the ass to make. And im not even half way done. :sadwavey:

Next was time to make the side pieces.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit010.jpg
bending a sliced piece of 3.5" tubing
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit011.jpg
marking where to cut.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit012.jpg
Cut, and tacked up.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit013.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit009.jpg
On the car. Fits perfectly.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit006.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit005.jpg
THen I made the other one.

Fucking sick.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit014.jpg
And yes it was a pain in the ass to make these.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit019.jpg

Then it was time to send some shit out to be powder coated. This meant that all bearings, seals, etc had to be removed.

Fun.
alternator
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit021.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit022.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit023.jpg

ac pump.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit035.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit037.jpg
its a 7 cylinder
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit038.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit040.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit041.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit045.jpg
Look at all the cute little pistons.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit047.jpg

Ps pump.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit048.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit051.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit053.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit057.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit058.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit059.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit060.jpg

Then Vic asked me to tig weld this stainless steering arm to a stainless u joint.
Turned out great.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit066.jpg


Then I took a break and decided to work on the turbo kit.

First I took the turbo and manifold and mocked up the system on the Ls1 FC.

Fits good.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit024.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit025.jpg

Plenty of Downpipe clearance.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit026.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g204/turboskeet/moreshit031.jpg

Thats all for now. Im tired. lol

[ThatGuy]

I had a similar idea for the exhaust on my car when I do it, Luke. Once again, your work is awesome! Did I tell you the oval tubing was my idea? Did you steal my idea? :rofl:

[blu808]

You know me. Always stealing Barrys ideas. lol

You should see my 3.5" oval down pipe im going to be making this weekend.

[driftstyre]

Luke,
Those exhaust boom tubes are sick. That thing is gonna be loud! There are tons of boom tubes on ebay from nextel cup cars for pretty decent prices. Is that turbo V8 in a 240? Probably won't be fast;)

Here is the new RS Maxi manifold tacked up. I'll remove each runner individually, weld them w/ back purging and then re install them and weld the last two welds. I still need to do the wastegate runners but will do that once I can get the engine back in the car. The material is 304. I would have liked to use 321 or 316 but it would have been over 3x the money. I'm going to send the manifold to zircotec in the UK (for coating) once it is completed.
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9793-2/DCP_1220.JPG
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9788-2/DCP_1221.JPG
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9798-2/DCP_1222.JPG

[aa87]

Ok, since this is the fabrication thread, lets talk welders.

I think me and a few buddies are gonna go in together on a mig welder, probalby will have about 800 to spend. This will be something for seam welding and making a roll cage and other little stuff but we'll probably start light and work our way up the fabbing scale.

http://store.cyberweld.com/millermatic175.html

any opinions on this, and probably would pick it up with the spool gun?

What else would you guys reccomend, lincolns? hobarts?

Is it likely to get a pulsed mig at the price, or have i not been looking hard enough?
EDIT, Nevermind, pulsed mig is not a cash option haha.

[fakts13]

hey driftstyre: what gauge 304 are you using? I take it the car is gonna be for drag with a turbo that big? should be strong enough to hold up for a bit if it is for drag. your fitment on every cut is awesome on the runners (no gaps). how long did it take you to mock that up?

edit: just took a look at your build thread, nevermind what I said, nice project!

aa87: that would probably be good enough for most projects. I prefer tigging aluminum, so I've never used a spool gun before. if you see yourself needing to weld aluminum, I'd get the spool gun. you don't need pulsed mig, just practice making your finger into the pulser

[Jung918]

Ok, since this is the fabrication thread, lets talk welders.

I think me and a few buddies are gonna go in together on a mig welder, probalby will have about 800 to spend. This will be something for seam welding and making a roll cage and other little stuff but we'll probably start light and work our way up the fabbing scale.

http://store.cyberweld.com/millermatic175.html

any opinions on this, and probably would pick it up with the spool gun?

What else would you guys reccomend, lincolns? hobarts?

Is it likely to get a pulsed mig at the price, or have i not been looking hard enough?
EDIT, Nevermind, pulsed mig is not a cash option haha.

2 questions. What kind of metal do you plan on welding? How thick? Do you have an outlet for 220volts? Yeah, I know that was 3 questions. So sue me

I bought my miller 140 through cyberweld. I have no complaints. I picked the millermatic 140 because it takes 110 volt and I don't see myself welding anything thick. If i do, i could bevel the work piece and do multiple passes.

[jobestudios]

nice work on the tubs. What gauge sheet did you go with? 16 or 18?

Sorry, I didn't see this question until now. I used 18 gauge sheet for this, ended up getting a full sheet and used 1/4 of it. Now I'm trying to figure out what I want to make with the rest :)


I just brought in an S14 SR with Apexi Power FC to use my gt2871r on and I figure the S14 intake manifold is a good excuse to do a vmount intercooler. I've already done all the measuring I need and have designed the system in CAD to help figure it all out. A few questions, do you know where I can order 1 3/8" aluminum straight pipe and tight radius mandrel bends? I need to rework the radiator pipe and I don't want to just use sections of hose :P.

I'm still trying to decide if I'm going to mount my oil cooler on my right wheel tub or if I'll run it through my GTR style grill and out the first uras hood vent.

-Jackson

[Wiisass]

A few questions, do you know where I can order 1 3/8" aluminum straight pipe and tight radius mandrel bends? I need to rework the radiator pipe and I don't want to just use sections of hose :P.
-Jackson

http://www.burnsstainless.com/AluminumTube/aluminumtube.html

[DOOK]

you guys make me wish I was worth a fuck... excellent work to you all.

[blu808]

Luke,
Those exhaust boom tubes are sick. That thing is gonna be loud!


Thanks. Your manifold is looking great as usual.

We are actually just using those flat ovals for under the tranny crossmember. It will go from what you see in the pics to a 3.5" standard oval. which is 2.5x4" then to two oval mufflers, and then to two more muffs after the axle.

Luke

[blu808]

Thanks for all the other comments guys. Im sure anyone can be good at fab if they have the right approach. I consider my skills as being a noob compared to other fabricators that I know.

[luisgonz]

I really dont want to say much. Took me 4 days to fab everything.Alot of welding.LOL
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a50/WOLF45SKYLINE/IMG_0335.jpg

[derek king]

that airco is badass whoever it is that picked that up!!

First time welding aluminum .
its for a supercharged r32 vw
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o100/dearderekking/derekkamira006-3.jpg
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o100/dearderekking/derekkamira003-3.jpg
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o100/dearderekking/derekkamira018-3.jpg

[sillyvia13]

hey driftstyre: what gauge 304 are you using? I take it the car is gonna be for drag with a turbo that big? should be strong enough to hold up for a bit if it is for drag. your fitment on every cut is awesome on the runners (no gaps). how long did it take you to mock that up?

its a time attack car...
won 2 years in a row at redline time attack fr rwd....
THE NASTY S13 I have ever seen.

[blu808]

Wow. Great job on that aluminum. What machine were you using? It is often hard for a beginner to learn on thin stuff like tubing.

Congrats.

[driftstyre]

Finished the manifold. The wastegate routing is less than ideal but I think it will be fine. The turbine outlet and exhaust still need to be made but I have to get the engine back in the car for that.
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9823-2/DCP_1229.JPG
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9808-2/DCP_1226.JPG
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9818-2/DCP_1228.JPG
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9828-2/DCP_1230.JPG
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9813-2/DCP_1227.JPG
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/9843-2/DCP_1231.JPG

[derek king]

Wow. Great job on that aluminum. What machine were you using? It is often hard for a beginner to learn on thin stuff like tubing.

Congrats.
not too sure exactly what it is. but its some giant miller that took me about a day to figure out how to set settings for aluminum lol. im starting to like it tho. thanks

[Xracer]

That manifold is fuckin intense. looks great.