Ball Joints, etc.

[Foxcolt]

Upon inspection of my rear lower ball joints. On the lower control arm. I saw that the rubber boot around the ball joints were ripped to shreds.....
ok I'll be honest. I mangled them getting the spindle out. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':('>

Either way, Now they are leaking that goo crap everywhere. My question is. How long do I have before I need to replace them?
I also noticed that the boot is attached via a snap ring? That suggestes that I can take the boot off and replace it. However I don't know where I can get some ball joint boots. Anyone have any ideas? Could I just replace them with tie rod end boots since I have a few of those laying around? I did notice that none of the front ball joints have a snap ring around them so I don't think the boots are removable.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Jed

[uiuc240]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Foxcolt @ Oct. 07 2002,11:12)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I did notice that none of the front ball joints have a snap ring around them so I don't think the boots are removable.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
You sure they don't have snap rings? &nbsp;Mine did. &nbsp;Hmm. &nbsp;I thought somewhere I read that you can't get the rear ball joints without buying the whole arm from Nissan.

Call Car-Quest and see what they have from MOOG.

Eric

[Kid Zelda]

The ball joints on the lower control arm.. &nbsp;the front lower control arm ? Or the rear A-arm ?

The front lower control arm ball joint does have a snap-ring, not sure if they sell just the boots alone, doubt it. I would replace them asap with some Moog's like Eric said.

The rear a-arm ball joint is a different story, you'll need a whole new rear a-arm from the dealer a $140 + iirc, no one seems to make this ball joint, and don't try front ball joints on the rear a-arm &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/hehe.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':hehe:'>

[Foxcolt]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Kid Zelda @ Oct. 07 2002,1:48)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">The ball joints on the lower control arm.. the front lower control arm ? Or the rear A-arm ?

The front lower control arm ball joint does have a snap-ring, not sure if they sell just the boots alone, doubt it. I would replace them asap with some Moog's like Eric said.

The rear a-arm ball joint is a different story, you'll need a whole new rear a-arm from the dealer a $140 + iirc, no one seems to make this ball joint, and don't try front ball joints on the rear a-arm <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/hehe.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':hehe:'></td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
ok, Thanks for all the help. One more question.

Think I can replace the boot on both the rear a-arms with one tie rod boot and one front lower control arm boot? These are for the ball joints mind you. I suspent if they are all attached with snap rings I can just go ahead and remove the boot without much problem. Then fill the sucker with some grease.

Trust me I've bought so much crap for this little project I really would rather not having to buy a set of a arms.

Thanks again.
Jed

[Kid Zelda]

Yes, the rear A-arms have snap rings, you can go ahead and try the boot switching.

[adey]

This thread has now officially been hijacked. &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sly.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':sly:'> &nbsp;

I've heard that when removing your tie rod ends, you'll need a special ball-joint removing tool of some sort.
I just received my moog tie rod ends in the mail, and noticed that they include the whole adjusting (screwable... er...) section. How should I go about removing and then installing the old/new tie rod ends?

I imagine it would go: hammer out old ball joint using hammer and ball-joint removing tool -- unscrew old, oozing tie rod end and bushing -- screw on new tie rod end and hammer in (??) place. &nbsp;

Thanks for any and all help! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>

[Yoshi]

Foxcolt: I don't think i'd try using the tie rod end ones, they're WAY smaller, and how would you keep the seal? &nbsp;You should prolly just get a new lower control arm, I got mine from PDM, they weren't terribly expensive, $50 with shiny new balljoint already in place. &nbsp;If you can't replace the seal with another one (don't forget the grease too!<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>, I'd either hit a part yard and try to find one that's not leaking, or get a new one.

Adey: I just changed from my old stock rod ends to the beefier MOOG ends last week, I needed no such tool. &nbsp;It's just held in by a jamming nut, they have to be easily adjustable for you to align the car! &nbsp;The moog ends are slightly longer than stock, so its a guess how far back to back the jamming nut off when you install the new one, you'll need an alignment, without question. &nbsp;As for the hammer part, you don't need to bang the crap out of it (getting it back in... getting it out, yeah, hammer away, just try not to damage threads), getting it back should require minimal, if any, hammering, the cotter pin does all the work.

[240 2NR]

Well, to answer the original post, you're not in any imediate danger. &nbsp;Slowly the grease will ooze out and dirt and grit will get in and start breakinfg don the ball joint. &nbsp;I had a torn boot for &nbsp;few months before I got to fix mine and after pulling it it still didn't have excess play. &nbsp;I'd just make sure you get to it soon. &nbsp;

As for swapping boots, the problem is that the existing joint isn't re-greasable so even if you get a new boot, you still can't properly grease it, plus you still have to pull the bolt off to get the old boot off and the new one on. &nbsp;It's a lot of work for a temporary fix IMO.

[Foxcolt]

Thanks for everyone's help.
I got lazy and just put everything back together with mangled balljoints. So far (2 days) I haven't had any problems. At some point I'm gonna go and get new Control arms.

About hammering the tie rod ends. Be VERY careful. When you do hammer them be sure to screw the nut on a little. So your hammering the nut not the rod (giggle giggle <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/hehe.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':hehe:'> ) Those threads are very easy to ruin. Trust me I know.

Jed

[240 2NR]

Well, you're right about leaving the nut on a bit when you hammer the ball joint out, but its actually easier to strike the knuckle it's seated into. &nbsp;The vibration from the strike usually unseats the ball joint in a few blows and it falls right out. &nbsp;Not so much an issue for a replacement, but much better on a joint you plan to use again. &nbsp;Leaving the ut on, keeps the joint from falling to the floor once it's loose.

[adey]

So what's the consensus on this re: using those hammer-me-forks to 'pry' the ball joint off the spindle/upright? (is it connected to spindle or upright?) Is this a good idea or no? Anything to be careful of when using the ball-joint removing fork?