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View Full Version : Front underpanal/defuser whatever you call it


HyperTek
01-01-2008, 09:05 PM
http://sos.web.infoseek.co.jp/6y.jpg
http://sos.web.infoseek.co.jp/6w.jpg

Ok, for simplicity, what material would you make one out of? wood, fiberglass, sheetmetal? I always wanted to do one.. why? becuase I can. lol.. Just not sure what would be a cost effective material to make a simple one.. Dont really care for the defuser sections, flat panal might be ok..

A big sheet of ABS plastic is like over $100 kinda too much.
Maybe some thin wood sandwiched in fiberglass? fiberglass is easy to do.

Maybe trace the front bumper over some big pieces of cardboard for initial layout? Another friend was thinking to lay fiberglass over the cardboard. What you guys think?

SHIFT_Slide
01-01-2008, 09:08 PM
Know anyone who can get street signs? Perfect thickness and can get them in pretty much any size.

And before anyone says anything, NO, NOT STEALING SIGNS.

Let me reiterate that,

NOT

STEALING.

Dousan_PG
01-01-2008, 09:10 PM
hopefully u can view this

sasha's on his race car s14
check ti out
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=7879.690

TOYTECH1
01-01-2008, 09:12 PM
couple of of months ago in Modified, i think, there was a write up on how to make one. I'll look to see if i can find it. Some one prob tell ya before i can find it tho.

!Zar!
01-01-2008, 09:13 PM
The FC comes stock with something like that.

Though it's pointless being as how the rest of the car isn't setup for it. Unless you go all the way like Sasha.

PoorMans180SX
01-01-2008, 09:13 PM
Fiberglass isn't very tough.

Alumalite.

Carbon fiber/kevlar over light wood.

Kognition can make one for you from a template. Course that's money.

SHIFT_Slide
01-01-2008, 10:09 PM
How serious are you about having it? Just to have it? Or do you actually it want/need it for your driving?

If you want it just to have it, make it out of thin plywood, coat it with some thick paint? Maybe rhino liner (actually on second thought, maybe too heavy?) to add some rigidity.

I still vote for aluminum street signs because I love them, and they're usually very cheap if you have to buy them.

i3igpete
01-01-2008, 10:43 PM
mock up with coardboard, fab it out of a few layers of laminated plywood (be sure to cross the grains). then soak in resin and clamp it all together to bond 'em. cheap, light, waterproof, and can take a beating.

s13coupedrfter
01-01-2008, 10:45 PM
I would make it out of .032 or .040 sheet aluminum. It will be light, easy to work with and cost you about 30 bucks in material (depending how big you want it). If your in Los Angeles area try M&K Metal co. (310) 327-9011. They can cut to any size you want.

98koukile
01-01-2008, 10:49 PM
Are you wanting this for a skidplate or aerodynamic purposes?

Full-Lock
01-01-2008, 11:15 PM
i would definatly use alumilite

pr0ject TRUENO
01-01-2008, 11:30 PM
hopefully u can view this

sasha's on his race car s14
check ti out
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=7879.690

yeah pretty sure the body shop on ZT is public

HyperTek
01-02-2008, 02:16 PM
was at my local lowes.. saw hardboard panalling
http://www.reedsplace.com/Theater/New%20Theater/Construction/P2141974.jpg
picture jacked from google to show what im talking about.

Seems like it might work.. for like $8 why not... I just dont have a truck to pick it up.. maybe later this week or so i dunno haha.. Any thoughts on it?

240trainee
01-02-2008, 02:22 PM
If thats what I'm thinking off, it soaks up water like a sponge.

you can try sealing it, but I feel like as soon as you hit water it will fall off, lol.

Full-Lock
01-02-2008, 02:33 PM
silkroad makes a dealio thing like this i think

edit:
http://www.silkroad-jp.com/section/dif.html

sideview_180sx
01-02-2008, 02:57 PM
so you buy the silkroad one for maybe under $400US. then spend about another $150+ on shiping due to oversized item, and no guarantee it wont get hammered on the way over, for you to send it back and wait for another replacement from the first damaged one.

pinkarrowsnow
01-02-2008, 03:08 PM
If you have any access to anyone that works on audi's all of them have them on the fronts and what I have been told is it is very easy to make them fit on are small imports. A guy I work with covered the whole bottom of his tracked talon with them and it worked great.

yokotas13
01-02-2008, 03:22 PM
so you buy the silkroad one for maybe under $400US. then spend about another $150+ on shiping due to oversized item, and no guarantee it wont get hammered on the way over, for you to send it back and wait for another replacement from the first damaged one.
nah i can get one to you for 400 shipped right now
its 3 piece, so its not oversized :)

mehsilvia
01-02-2008, 03:38 PM
What about those Acrylic/Plexiglass sheets at homedepot?

Anyone know what im talkin about?

yokotas13
01-02-2008, 03:39 PM
those should work actually.
thats not a bad idea.

HyperTek
01-02-2008, 03:41 PM
i was looking at those too..didnt see a piece big enough
would be lighter then the hardboard panaling..

steve shadows
01-02-2008, 03:42 PM
A big sheet of ABS plastic is like over $100 kinda too much.
Maybe some thin wood sandwiched in fiberglass? fiberglass is easy to do.

Maybe trace the front bumper over some big pieces of cardboard for initial layout? Another friend was thinking to lay fiberglass over the cardboard. What you guys think?

100 is too much? are you fucking kidding?

I wouldnt want to spend less than 100 on a decent splitter.

thats what I was planning to do-ABS sheet-APR Rods to hold up the splitter.

Larger rear wing-around 300

good way to start with aero if your seeing turns over 100 mph.

yokotas13
01-02-2008, 03:42 PM
make a 3 piece
get some thick metal to join them

this thing doesnt have to be a brick, you can make brackets to stiffen it when you mount it.

The silkroad ones are 3 pieces bolted together sandwiched in metal at the joints

steve shadows
01-02-2008, 03:43 PM
What about those Acrylic/Plexiglass sheets at homedepot?

Anyone know what im talkin about?



just make sure it's not the kind of Acrylic that cracks easy, most do.

DrtyRat
01-02-2008, 04:43 PM
Ok, for simplicity, what material would you make one out of? wood, fiberglass, sheetmetal? I always wanted to do one.. why? becuase I can. lol.. Just not sure what would be a cost effective material to make a simple one.. Dont really care for the defuser sections, flat panal might be ok..

A big sheet of ABS plastic is like over $100 kinda too much.
Maybe some thin wood sandwiched in fiberglass? fiberglass is easy to do.

Maybe trace the front bumper over some big pieces of cardboard for initial layout? Another friend was thinking to lay fiberglass over the cardboard. What you guys think?
Search gsracer's thread on this. He made one, IIRC, out of plywood, and it came out good.
edit:it may have been on our local forum only.

McRussellPants
01-03-2008, 02:40 AM
Pro Tip: splitters make it hard as fuck to get a low car on a trailer.

drifter101
01-03-2008, 10:39 AM
Search gsracer's thread on this. He made one, IIRC, out of plywood, and it came out good.
edit:it may have been on our local forum only.


I believe he also posted it on FA.

gsracer
01-03-2008, 10:58 AM
i made one out of thin white wood sandwiched between fiberglass, it worked out great and was strong and light under 9 lbs iirc till i wrecked it lol. Im gonna make another one for the kouki bumper now.

Though mcrussel is right i had to remove it for the trailer everytime lol



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0180.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0177.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0172.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0205.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0204.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0203.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0202.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0201.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0200.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0196.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0194.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0193.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0192.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0190.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0188.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0183.jpg

Full-Lock
01-03-2008, 11:30 AM
sweet work on the splitter man

did you end up painting it at all?
it looks like just bare black fiberglass in some pics

ill definatly be doing this when i get my new bumper put on

exitspeed
01-03-2008, 11:38 AM
gsracer, that's pretty damn nice looking.

BustedS13
01-03-2008, 11:38 AM
Know anyone who can get street signs? Perfect thickness and can get them in pretty much any size.

And before anyone says anything, NO, NOT STEALING SIGNS.

Let me reiterate that,

NOT

STEALING.

WINK
WINK

highway exit sign should do the trick

GSXRJJordan
01-03-2008, 11:54 AM
GSRacer - That actually looks really good. It would be nice to have one a few other pieces that could come back further down the car (like Sasha's, RIP), but that's a great start.

Sasha's really was awesome, and done right: aluminum honeycomb, for ultimate stiffness/rigidity, and light weight. Teh sechks.

mehsilvia
01-03-2008, 12:15 PM
gsracer - youve inspired me. +1 for you sir

I now know what im doing the next few weekends.

HyperTek
01-03-2008, 02:27 PM
gsracer thats pretty sweet.. pics are self explanatory. I might try this.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/splitter/IMG_0180.jpg
in this pic, i couldnt help but notice if thats a intercooler? but the pic has a stock air tube? maybe u did some super stealth mode setup or is that a oil cooler?

imma go visit a few places today

Turtle
01-03-2008, 02:50 PM
I think thats just a mock up if he goes turbo later down the road for clearance...?

hustlervibes
01-03-2008, 03:20 PM
gsracer thats pretty sweet.. pics are self explanatory. I might try this.


in this pic, i couldnt help but notice if thats a intercooler? but the pic has a stock air tube? maybe u did some super stealth mode setup or is that a oil cooler?

imma go visit a few places today

That pic must be pretty old? Because last I saw him post he was running a vh45de v8.

Full-Lock
01-03-2008, 03:22 PM
yea
he is now

hes got different wheels too now, and like 315s on the rear

i think these are really old pics

gsracer
01-03-2008, 03:25 PM
yea I made that like a year and a half ago when I was gonna pit my sr back in . The interfooler is no longer there LOL

Those were my first work wheels termist ts2's 18 by 9/10. Nothing to agressive back then.

DreamN
01-06-2008, 02:27 AM
What about those Acrylic/Plexiglass sheets at homedepot?

Anyone know what im talkin about?

i was looking at those too..didnt see a piece big enough
would be lighter then the hardboard panaling..

They have 4'x8' sheets of it. Big enough? If you go this route make sure to get at least the 1/4" thick ones, if not then they'll crack or break easy under stress.

babowc
01-06-2008, 12:47 PM
we have 4x8' sheets of acrylic at the house.. iirc 1/2" or 3/4" thick.
those fuckers are heavy as hell.
they wont break easily.
for SURE.

Ian
01-06-2008, 01:08 PM
i would use something metal and pliable


in case of damage...then it won't splinter...just bend

HyperTek
01-06-2008, 02:01 PM
with bending comes the breakage of ur fiberglass front.. but either way it would probably break anyways.. ill scan this drift tengoku issue i have at home, has a undershoot of the old gold top secret s15 with a nice looking one.. =p

gsracer
01-06-2008, 03:41 PM
when i had mine on the car, my car was low, i would hit it all over the place especially going down inclines it would scrape the whole way it took running it into a tree to break and even then it only broke in a corner.




http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/WORK%20S1/DSC_0486.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/WORK%20S1/DSC_0486.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v344/gsracer/WORK%20S1/IMG_0219.jpg

HyperTek
01-06-2008, 04:19 PM
dam your car brings a huge smile to my face hehe

rhs13
01-06-2008, 04:29 PM
i looked into this, too. i kno a place that quoted me under 80 bucks for a sheet of ABS. ive seen it used before. looks sweet. kinda heavy. all you have to do is cut it out and bolt it on.

fiberglass and plywood is the way to go IMO if you feel like putting in the work it takes to fab it up.

S14DB
01-06-2008, 05:37 PM
I bought a new stock one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Body/UnderAreoTray.jpg

!Zar!
01-06-2008, 06:16 PM
I bought a new stock one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Body/UnderAreoTray.jpg

ding ding ding. We have a winner.

SimpleSexy180
01-06-2008, 06:25 PM
how much did that cost though

S14DB
01-06-2008, 06:32 PM
how much did that cost though

Less than $50 shipped. Have to dig to find the invoice.

SimpleSexy180
01-06-2008, 07:14 PM
hmm i wonder how much s13 are. probably the same i suppose.

but then again...10-20 bucks worth of materials and some elbow grease...

oh well, whichever you prefer guys. 8)

UNITEDMASTER
01-06-2008, 07:25 PM
Hello I also made a splitter the exact same way as GSRACER. That way, is cheap easy it adds a bit of rigidity to body kit front bumpers & if you bash it all up its no big deal ,just make another. Im later gonna make a panle to close up the tranny tunnle also. I used end grain dense balsa wood the whole sheet at home depot was i think 12-15 bucks, gollon of resin 30 bucks(you will have lots of extra) , couple packs of woven roving 15 bucks. Chop strand matt is a lil cheaper. . Good luck now go make a spliter/undertray!!!

driftstyre
01-06-2008, 09:14 PM
Alumilite is for sure the way to go. If braced properly, it will support 200+ lbs on the edge (I've put my full body weight on the front edge of mine). Alumilite's stiffness/low weight is better than anything this side of carbon/honeycomb.
The cheapest way to go about buying it is to find sheets with damaged edges or small scrapes. Distributers can no longer sell them for signs and they sell them for 40-50% off.
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/6460-2/splitter2.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/6478-2/DCP_0949.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/6463-2/splitter1.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/6481-2/DCP_0947.jpg

SimpleSexy180
01-06-2008, 09:36 PM
VERY NICE. well im going to try to make some from white wood or whatever from home depot.

think ill go try this tomorrow.

mehsilvia
01-06-2008, 09:53 PM
VERY NICE. well im going to try to make some from white wood or whatever from home depot.

think ill go try this tomorrow.

Yeah, i originaly posted about the plexi but then i remembered how that shits very hard to cut. Ive tried many types of saws/dremels and the heat causes the plexi to melt back together. tends to look like ass around the edges.

I went to Lowes yesterday and scoped out a 3/8 sheet of plywood and im thinking about sandwiching the wood between sheets of Aluminum flashing, bonding it all together with construction adhesive, then maybe painting the topside of the aluminum for aesthetics.
Might work on it next weekened.

racepar1
01-07-2008, 12:34 AM
Alumilite is for sure the way to go. If braced properly, it will support 200+ lbs on the edge (I've put my full body weight on the front edge of mine). Alumilite's stiffness/low weight is better than anything this side of carbon/honeycomb.
The cheapest way to go about buying it is to find sheets with damaged edges or small scrapes. Distributers can no longer sell them for signs and they sell them for 40-50% off.
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/6460-2/splitter2.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/6478-2/DCP_0949.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/6463-2/splitter1.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/6481-2/DCP_0947.jpg

That's a super sick support bracket! I am going to make a front diffuser for my car pretty soon. I plan to make the diffuser out of VERY thin aluminum and once I get a rear wing to balance out the downforce I will make a splitter out of thicker aluminum. The splitter will only follow the outline of the bumper with about 4" of it under the bumper for mounting purposes. I still haven't figured out how I am going to support the bumper assembly and splitter though as I am going to remove the bumper support. I just don't have the time, experience, or resources to fab up a sick ass bracket assembly like that!

HyperTek
01-09-2008, 12:17 AM
Scans as promised
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/streetphase/img022.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/streetphase/img023.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/streetphase/img024.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/streetphase/20020324-3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/streetphase/img_982470_48121715_0.jpg

For me I dont really care much for the splitter portion that sticks much beyond the front bumper, I know it wont survive daily driving for me, but id liek to do the under paneling section

SimpleSexy180
01-09-2008, 01:17 AM
i just bought material today.

wish their was closer pics to see where he bolted that up. looks sweet.

kognition
01-09-2008, 03:11 AM
Alumalite is a good alternative to the more serious splitter/diffusers used in racing today. And plywood that is glassed is also good. I would highly recommend that people start with that on the track before buying high end stuff. Also, it's important to understand the purpose of a front splitter/diffuser.
And mounting your part is every bit as important as the strength of the part itself. Since nobody so far has touched on why you even want to use one, i will share what i have learned from our track experience in our 350Z time attack car. Keep in mind, this is a high power car weighing about 3,000lb's, so
a rigid splitter diffuser is mandatory for the abuse this car gets on the track.
1.The panel decreases surface area under the engine bay, and this controls and decreases the volume of air under flowing beneath. And creating higher pressure. The closer it is to the ground, the more intense the potential downforce realized. (Watch DTM races on Speed TV, and you will see diffusers in action).
2. The panel should be as stiff as possible so it will not excessively flex under vacuum load (this is your car hitting a bump and thrusting the front of the car upwards momentarily). The larger your diffuser surface underneath, the more critical stiffness becomes. When the car thrusts upward from a bump or corner curb, the panel creates a momentary vacuum effect that is desireable going into corners, particularly if you are riding the curb. This is the magic downforce of a splitter/ diffuser panel. Now if you have a panel that flexes easily under even the slightest vacuum loads, then the panel will flex and cancel out any vacuum effect that you are trying to acheive.

a_ahmed
01-09-2008, 06:15 AM
*subscribed to thread*

Awesome thread.

Ian
01-09-2008, 08:30 AM
I like the idea of this one
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/streetphase/20020324-3.jpg

because it doesn't rely on the bumper for support at all...it's bolted to the chassis and I'm guessing the bumper either slips over it or attaches in a few basic points

300hp owen
01-09-2008, 08:42 AM
The FC comes stock with something like that.

Though it's pointless being as how the rest of the car isn't setup for it. Unless you go all the way like Sasha.on the FC rx7 it helped provide maximum airflow to the radiator and provide smooth airflow thru the engine bay... those rotary motors are super sensitive to high temperature.

gsracer did it the right way, looks great!
you can also use plexiglass but that fiberglass/wood combo is a great way to keep it lightweight and super strong.

exitspeed
01-09-2008, 08:48 AM
Alumalite is a good alternative to the more serious splitter/diffusers used in racing today. And plywood that is glassed is also good. I would highly recommend that people start with that on the track before buying high end stuff. Also, it's important to understand the purpose of a front splitter/diffuser.
And mounting your part is every bit as important as the strength of the part itself. Since nobody so far has touched on why you even want to use one, i will share what i have learned from our track experience in our 350Z time attack car. Keep in mind, this is a high power car weighing about 3,000lb's, so
a rigid splitter diffuser is mandatory for the abuse this car gets on the track.
1.The panel decreases surface area under the engine bay, and this controls and decreases the volume of air under flowing beneath. And creating higher pressure. The closer it is to the ground, the more intense the potential downforce realized. (Watch DTM races on Speed TV, and you will see diffusers in action).
2. The panel should be as stiff as possible so it will not excessively flex under vacuum load (this is your car hitting a bump and thrusting the front of the car upwards momentarily). The larger your diffuser surface underneath, the more critical stiffness becomes. When the car thrusts upward from a bump or corner curb, the panel creates a momentary vacuum effect that is desireable going into corners, particularly if you are riding the curb. This is the magic downforce of a splitter/ diffuser panel. Now if you have a panel that flexes easily under even the slightest vacuum loads, then the panel will flex and cancel out any vacuum effect that you are trying to acheive.

Great post. Thanks for the explanation.

I have a question, that I'd assume the answer would be no. Would this diffuser/splitter have any positive effect on a near stock 240 for say AutoX. I know there are parts that will help out more, but I like the idea of something like this that I can build.

300hp owen
01-09-2008, 08:49 AM
blah blah blahhey man thats one of the best explanations I have read that arent some discertation into scientific jargon.
well said!

kognition
01-09-2008, 10:48 AM
Sure there will be some positive effect on a stock car. But real benefits are mostly reallized approx 3 inches off the ground. Think about the panel as a kind of plunger, where it does not like to travel upwards quickly if the car pitches in a corner or going over the curb in a corner. Also, there can be some beastly crosswinds out at some tracks, and the lower you can mount your panel the more front stability you will have. Your panel will also prevent buffering at high speeds where air would otherwise try to cram itself under the front of the car chaotically with uneven pressure areas. Our sponsored Z was topping out at nearly 185MPH at the Nissan Festival a few weeks ago, and at those speeds front control is imperative. :)

Great post. Thanks for the explanation.

I have a question, that I'd assume the answer would be no. Would this diffuser/splitter have any positive effect on a near stock 240 for say AutoX. I know there are parts that will help out more, but I like the idea of something like this that I can build.

exitspeed
01-09-2008, 10:51 AM
Sure there will be some positive effect on a stock car. But real benefits are mostly reallized approx 3 inches off the ground. Think about the panel as a kind of plunger, where it does not like to travel upwards quickly if the car pitches in a corner or going over the curb in a corner. Also, there can be some beastly crosswinds out at some tracks, and the lower you can mount your panel the more front stability you will have. Your panel will also prevent buffering at high speeds where air would otherwise try to cram itself under the front of the car chaotically with uneven pressure areas. Our sponsored Z was topping out at nearly 185MPH at the Nissan Festival a few weeks ago, and at those speeds front control is imperative. :)

Good to know. Thanks. I may work on something like this.

bziggers13
01-09-2008, 11:01 AM
Alumilite ftw.
a bit expensive, but light, rigid.

axiomatik
01-09-2008, 11:49 AM
I really doubt that you will see any benefit at an autoX. you really need to be going pretty fast (60+mph) before you would notice any changes, and you're not likely to see speeds like that at an autoX.

also, the "vacuum" effect is not only produced when you hit bumps. the purpose of a flat undertray and diffuser is two-fold. first, the flat undertray smoothes the airflow under the car and reduces drag on the under carriage. second, the diffuser creates a venturi effect to create a low pressure zone under the car, but it only works if the car is very close to the ground. as air flows under the car, it is confined to a very small space between the ground and the undertray, only a few inches thick. at the rear of the car, the diffuser directs the air as it exits from under the car. the diffuser is sloped upwards towards the rear so that the air that was under the car expands into a larger volume of space. this expansion creates a low-pressure area under the rear of the car, 'sucking' it to the ground. if the car is too high off the ground, air will just be pulled in from the sides, and the low pressure area will not be formed.

kognition
01-09-2008, 09:04 PM
That's right,
In order to maximize your downforce, the sides of the car need to be sealed off so that the primary air flow comes from the front of the car. Some race teams actually used electric fans mounted in the chassis so that they would pull air from under the car to increase vacuum. But with the front diffuser, the stiffer the better. :bow:


I really doubt that you will see any benefit at an autoX. you really need to be going pretty fast (60+mph) before you would notice any changes, and you're not likely to see speeds like that at an autoX.

also, the "vacuum" effect is not only produced when you hit bumps. the purpose of a flat undertray and diffuser is two-fold. first, the flat undertray smoothes the airflow under the car and reduces drag on the under carriage. second, the diffuser creates a venturi effect to create a low pressure zone under the car, but it only works if the car is very close to the ground. as air flows under the car, it is confined to a very small space between the ground and the undertray, only a few inches thick. at the rear of the car, the diffuser directs the air as it exits from under the car. the diffuser is sloped upwards towards the rear so that the air that was under the car expands into a larger volume of space. this expansion creates a low-pressure area under the rear of the car, 'sucking' it to the ground. if the car is too high off the ground, air will just be pulled in from the sides, and the low pressure area will not be formed.

hustlervibes
01-10-2008, 01:09 AM
Where do you guys mount your diffusers/splitters? Are there existing holes that you can use or do you drill into the underside of your car? I'm really interested in getting one from kognition later for the front and fabing up a tranny tunnel one later on and have no clue what I want to do for the rear.

kognition
01-10-2008, 10:57 AM
There is no one set pattern for splitter mounting. Everyone runs different front ends, so you need access to someone who can fabricate mounting brackets for you.

Where do you guys mount your diffusers/splitters? Are there existing holes that you can use or do you drill into the underside of your car? I'm really interested in getting one from kognition later for the front and fabing up a tranny tunnel one later on and have no clue what I want to do for the rear.

HyperTek
01-10-2008, 12:48 PM
hey jason any update on your project? =p

HyperTek
01-10-2008, 04:19 PM
dam i guess someone did one on the rx7 forum.. ahha ai was soo not suspecting that unfortinutly.. *people are pretty much anti jdm there*
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=687730

Nvm.. pretty crappy looking

JRas
01-10-2008, 05:34 PM
I bought a new stock one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Body/UnderAreoTray.jpg

what does this one look like on?

Dousan_PG
01-10-2008, 06:21 PM
it only covers from the front under radiator back to behind oil pan
it doesnt go up to bumper

its a STOCK OEM piece.
i have it too
dropped temps a bit. about 5C down.

Full-Lock
01-10-2008, 06:35 PM
the one on the top secret s15 looks cool

i think beatrush or something like that makes an underpanel out of aluminium that just covers behind the bumper like the oem piece.

S14DB
01-10-2008, 06:41 PM
it only covers from the front under radiator back to behind oil pan
it doesnt go up to bumper

its a STOCK OEM piece.
i have it too
dropped temps a bit. about 5C down.

No, it does screw into the bumper. The 4 holes in front are in the bumper. The ridges span the bumper to core support. The oval cut outs are for the front TC rod brace mounts.

I have installed pics somewhere but not readily available to me at this moment.

IMHO it provides the best flow across the Radiator for the price. Front bumper and grill air is rammed through the rad and the lovers in the back flow it under the car smoothly.

Dousan_PG
01-10-2008, 06:42 PM
ah mine didnt :(
but thats ok, aftermarket bumper
maybe mine did...actualli cut mine so it only went to IC
my bad
your right !!!

S14DB
01-10-2008, 07:20 PM
Yeah I would take new pics but the FMIC I bought is so honking big it hits the tray so I removed both and am getting a smaller FMIC.

Dousan_PG
01-10-2008, 07:23 PM
my fmic ijust cut that tray a bit so fits ok
the rear didnt bolt up so i used some zipties and some i could bolt up
i cut out a chunk too for my oil pan (greddY) otherwise it would dump oil on th epan when i drain it

slideways2004
01-10-2008, 07:44 PM
That's right,
In order to maximize your downforce, the sides of the car need to be sealed off so that the primary air flow comes from the front of the car. Some race teams actually used electric fans mounted in the chassis so that they would pull air from under the car to increase vacuum. But with the front diffuser, the stiffer the better. :bow:

i have heard somewhere that the mclaren f1 has those fans under the car.

Matej
02-03-2009, 10:00 PM
Hello, I am bringing this thread back.

I want a skid plate, because lately I've been hitting my oil pan on everything and ripping out my swaybar. It would also help me pass tech if I ever go to any events, since I could just lay a rag on it to soak up all the leaks and fool the tech guy.

Considered making my own, but I don't really have any proper tools, plus I'm not sure what size the bolts on speed limit signs are.

Found this guy who's selling them on Nico. The front seems a little odd, but other than that his look nice.
S13 Under Engine Cover/Skid Plate available for KA/SR/Greddy Oil Pan: Fabricators' Market: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub (http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=309291)
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd95/hywarp/DSC01524.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p112/sxj6151/NICO/IMG_6079.jpg

Are there any other aftermarket ones available? (Preferably cheaper, haha.)
No I do not want the stock plastic one, mine broke the day I installed coilovers.
Just curious, if not then I'll probably just go with the one above.

Thanks for any info!

tdub377
02-03-2009, 10:07 PM
Here is a whole thread on a forum called timeattackforms.com
underbody panels - Time Attack Forums (http://www.timeattackforums.com/forums/aero-dynamics/1232-underbody-panels.html)

!Zar!
02-04-2009, 01:00 AM
Honestly, you could make those for dirt cheap.

But if someone wants to pay that much then I guess whatever...

Just cut some cardboard and measure up under your car. Then use it as a template and cut it out in your material of choice.

markyboi
02-04-2009, 01:28 AM
i have one of those matej

no fitment issues for me. It only took me 15 mins. to install and that's including jacking up my low car...only issue i could think of is your subrame being bent and your tc rod brackets are tweaked...

i noticed a difference on the freeway

kognition
02-04-2009, 10:01 AM
For those of you that REALLY want to learn how to make a righteous splitter/diffuser...... i will be posting a course with pics of a current project. I am making a splitter for the Magic JIC RX-8 time attack car next week. It will be in my build thread, so you have to be a premium member to view it.
It will show mold design and construction. Thru to producing the actual part.
And hopefully some of you will come away with a new skill, and maybe even get into composites.

Brian
02-04-2009, 10:42 AM
$100 is an average price for a skid plate like that.

I had one on my 14 that was the same general design.
I have one on my 13 now from Parts Shop Max. again, same basic design.

They work great for protecting the oil pan and accessories.

bejota180sx
02-04-2009, 10:53 AM
For those of you that REALLY want to learn how to make a righteous splitter/diffuser...... i will be posting a course with pics of a current project. I am making a splitter for the Magic JIC RX-8 time attack car next week. It will be in my build thread, so you have to be a premium member to view it.
It will show mold design and construction. Thru to producing the actual part.
And hopefully some of you will come away with a new skill, and maybe even get into composites.


you have my attention, im really trying to get into making my own stuff and just learn and have fun at that... im guessing that your design will also be a bit of added protection to the oil pan?

Firestorm
02-04-2009, 11:01 AM
For those of you that REALLY want to learn how to make a righteous splitter/diffuser...... i will be posting a course with pics of a current project. I am making a splitter for the Magic JIC RX-8 time attack car next week. It will be in my build thread, so you have to be a premium member to view it.
It will show mold design and construction. Thru to producing the actual part.
And hopefully some of you will come away with a new skill, and maybe even get into composites.


damn, i want to see this so bad, because i'm going to build my own splitter/rear diffuser parts this year and i'm looking for advice and what materials to use...

Om1kron
02-04-2009, 11:28 AM
if you cant mount it to the frame, I wouldn't waste your time on it... meaning a lower bash bar... having it hang from your front bumper can cause it to make drag instead of being efficient since most people zip tie their front ends on or remove the bumper support.

you really think that thing is still pointing flat and straight when you're going 80 you got another thing coming.

Matej
02-04-2009, 11:54 AM
$100 is an average price for a skid plate like that.

I had one on my 14 that was the same general design.
I have one on my 13 now from Parts Shop Max. again, same basic design.

They work great for protecting the oil pan and accessories.
Are there any links to the Parts Shop Max one? I'd like to compare & contrast, but I don't see it on their website.

Brian
02-04-2009, 11:58 AM
No.

I think I posted a photo of it in the thread though.

Matej
02-04-2009, 11:59 AM
In that case, how does one go about purchasing it?

Brian
02-04-2009, 12:05 PM
You have to order from Parts Shop Max.

Payment would be cash / paypal / credit card I would imagine.
Shipping maybe be UPS or US Postal.

Matej
02-04-2009, 12:06 PM
That would make most sense, and I found your picture in the Parts Shop Max thread, thank you sir.

PoorMans180SX
02-04-2009, 12:15 PM
I think it needs to be mentioned that the less airflow you let under your car, the lower the pressure will be, thus increasing downforce. I know this could be extrapolated from what you guys said before, but it wasn't said outright.

So overall the best setup would be really low with a splitter, flat underbelly, and a slightly angled rear diffuser, thus limiting airflow under the car to the least amount, and smoothing what is going under the car as much as possible, because faster moving air means less pressure.

slider2828
02-04-2009, 12:41 PM
For those of you that REALLY want to learn how to make a righteous splitter/diffuser...... i will be posting a course with pics of a current project. I am making a splitter for the Magic JIC RX-8 time attack car next week. It will be in my build thread, so you have to be a premium member to view it.
It will show mold design and construction. Thru to producing the actual part.
And hopefully some of you will come away with a new skill, and maybe even get into composites.

I will be definitely looking at that. I saw how your rear wing was attached... you think the same can be done on an S13 Hatch? Basically ripe out the hatched and attach the wing to the body? I just don't like GT wings when I am driving out on city streets and stuff....

SoSideways
02-04-2009, 12:59 PM
I will be definitely looking at that. I saw how your rear wing was attached... you think the same can be done on an S13 Hatch? Basically ripe out the hatched and attach the wing to the body? I just don't like GT wings when I am driving out on city streets and stuff....

You can do it up like this.

Props to Dom for the blog entry!

Original Made ยป GT Wing Brace (http://og-made.com/archives/1787)

!Zar!
02-04-2009, 01:51 PM
I think it needs to be mentioned that the less airflow you let under your car, the lower the pressure will be, thus increasing downforce. I know this could be extrapolated from what you guys said before, but it wasn't said outright.

So overall the best setup would be really low with a splitter, flat underbelly, and a slightly angled rear diffuser, thus limiting airflow under the car to the least amount, and smoothing what is going under the car as much as possible, because faster moving air means less pressure.

That's pretty much common sense.

But thanks for stating it for anyone who didn't know that.

You can do it up like this.

Props to Dom for the blog entry!

Original Made » GT Wing Brace (http://og-made.com/archives/1787)

That's a sexy setup.

kognition
02-04-2009, 02:11 PM
Sorry but i simply don't speak "daily driver" anymore.
Track only.

I will be definitely looking at that. I saw how your rear wing was attached... you think the same can be done on an S13 Hatch? Basically ripe out the hatched and attach the wing to the body? I just don't like GT wings when I am driving out on city streets and stuff....

Otto347
04-10-2009, 01:08 PM
Sorry but i simply don't speak "daily driver" anymore.
Track only.Sorry to go off topic, your build thread is totally fucking rad!

Bigsyke
04-10-2009, 01:51 PM
Stock one ran me about 40 shipped

nsn240
04-10-2009, 02:14 PM
Edit: Now that I read the thread that comment was pointless.

Good stuff guys

Otto347
04-10-2009, 03:04 PM
Street signs fit damn near perfect:rofl: I have a yield sign in my garage, dont think its big enough though.