KA dyno opinions

[Neejay]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v422/neejay/neejay_ka.jpg

Intake, header, stock exhaust.

Anyone know what would cause the hp and tq to spike up and down like that and not be a constant rising line? The guy told me check my spark plugs. I've had these codes prior to the dyno:

21 - Ignition signal in the primary circuit is not being entered to the ECU during cranking or tuning
34 - Detonation (Knock) Sensor

Would these have something to do with it?

[cdlong]

were either of those codes up when you ran it on the dyno? the knock sensor problem might cause issues.

that's not too unusual. it depends on the dyno software settings how smooth it looks. a tune might help, see how the power curve follows the fuel chart?

your power and torque numbers are rediculously close.

[Neejay]

were either of those codes up when you ran it on the dyno? the knock sensor problem might cause issues.

that's not too unusual. it depends on the dyno software settings how smooth it looks. a tune might help, see how the power curve follows the fuel chart?

your power and torque numbers are rediculously close.
Yeah, Im pretty sure they were both there.

"your power and torque numbers are rediculously close" = good or bad?

[racepar1]

First off the small spikes in the graph are normal, so don't sweat it. Also of course it is good to have your hp and torque somewhat even with eachother. In my opinion torque is actually more important than horsepower. I look at it like this, torque is what gives you your initial acceleration (powering off corners), horsepower is what keeps you moving (top speed). What use is top speed if you can't get there fast.

[cdlong]

"your power and torque numbers are rediculously close" = good or bad?

just an observation.

[S14DB]

21 - Ignition signal in the primary circuit is not being entered to the ECU during cranking or tuning
34 - Detonation (Knock) Sensor


Did you ever check for 2-3v at your ECU when the car is running on the Knock sensor?

The ignition you need to check the resistor and the ignitor next to your coil.
2.2K oms on the resistor.
0 oms on the transistor
1 oms across the coil and 20 oms from the connector to the tower.

[Neejay]

Did you ever check for 2-3v at your ECU when the car is running on the Knock sensor?

The ignition you need to check the resistor and the ignitor next to your coil.
2.2K oms on the resistor.
0 oms on the transistor
1 oms across the coil and 20 oms from the connector to the tower.
Yeah, but not with the car running. I did like UNISA JECS said and I got 3.33v with the sensor disconnected AND connected (ignition on, car off). I don't know how to de-pin the wire and I don't want to mess anything up. So Im sure its the wiring somewhere, but I couldn't find any visual lumps as stated in the harness above the injectors. So I'll have to spend some "quality" time tracking that down.

I'll check that coil problem. Thanks.