Charlotte the Honda

[chickenmanq]

K, I've finally committed to doing the rebuild.  Interestingly enough, I found a small Candadian company that could make me everything I need to get the 81 Honda running EFI.  It'd cost 1800-3000, but I could do it.  Interesting little nugget.

http://www.sdsefi.com/  Their website seems simple at first, but I got an individual reply within 36 hours.  They can pretty much fit anything carbed with EFI, I'm thinking.



So anyway, I went to NAPA and was going to get the master rebuild kit.  ($368)  THEN I though, why get new pistons if I don't need them, because I'll have to have them pressed at the machine shop and that's extra time and money on top of the piston cost.

I can get a re-main kit for $240.  This includes everything the master does, except pistons.  So the pistons are the expensive items.  So I'm going to get the re-main kit, I'm pretty sure, but here's my dilemma.

I have a good whole 79 engine.  I have a bottom end for the 81.  Head too, but I don't want to use it even though I was pro four hole a little while ago. Bah!  My dilemma is I'll need to use the pistons/connecting rods from the 79 block.  HOWEVER, I'm going to be putting them on an 81 crank.  The cranks are the same, but I'm worried about memory, you know, if the con rods have developed a preference for the particular crank, since I'm not having the crank turned.

The only downside to using the 79 engine is the crank bolt holes for the flywheel are smaller than 80-83.  So I'll need a new flywheel, which wouldn't be a bad idea anyway.  But also I wanted to keep the original block in the car.  Much less, the engine I have now is 81, as is tranny.  TRANNY SHOULD bolt up to 79-81 models, but I'm worried.  It looks exactly the same and should be, but I'd feel safer using the 81 block and 79 head, no matter how silly that is.

Anyone know if that's an extremely bad idea to switch the 79 pistons/connecting rods to the 81 crank?  Or should I just rebuild the 79?  It's a decent junkyard engine (the only one I have that hasn't been lunched due to timing belt failure), although I actually haven't cracked it open to check for piston rust.  It was filled with oil though, and being Flagstaff is so dry, I kinda doubt it.

No videos worth converting yet.  Mounted videocam on back seat, but was too jiggly.  Have to find a dash mounting spot.

[Loren]

I felt bad that you wrote that whole long thing and no one replied... I don't know about this memory stuff you speak of.. how many miles does the rotating mass have? why not get it all balanced and the crank turned and put in oversized bearings? I think the EFI is for lack of better words, stupid. Thats a ton of money for hardly any performance gains, and could go a long way towards other things.. keep in mind this is a sub 100hp engine.. and you can get the same max hp out of the carb, its just the midrange that will suffer.. or if you tune for midrange the maxhp will suffer, etc.

[chickenmanq]

undersized bearings

COULD, not necessarily would

Going to ignore the rest of the post.  Anyone else with half a brain care to comment?  I'll be in Vegas for a few days.

[dave240sx]

I'd say stick with the carb. because if you put EFI on then you have to mess with a stupid computer.  Computer's are just a pain in cars.  That's one thing I liked about the old muscle cars no computer to fuck something up.  That's just me though.  

I wish I had an old junker that I could work on but I don't have a clue as to where to start most of the time.  
-Dave-

[chickenmanq]

Yeah, I paid for the new Weber, but maybe when I'm rich I'll think about EFI.  In my opinion it is superior, but looses some of that when you have to add the computer.  Fortunately, being it's aftermarket and only controlling one thing, it would be easy to mount it wherever you wanted, and trouble-shoot it.  Unlike stock ECU's.

I really like my Weber. &nbsp;Just going to have to hurry up and do the rebuild so it can operate properly. &nbsp;Got back from Vegas, and I drove it at 90-100 the whole way. &nbsp;Surprisingly nothing blew, and the wheel bearings held on. &nbsp;<img src="#/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'> &nbsp;Unfortunately, that one cylinder sure makes itself known when crawling. &nbsp;I tried to let the engine idle carry me on the Hoover Dam. &nbsp;Like a fricking jackrabbit. &nbsp;Back and forth back and forth. &nbsp;Lots of clutch action needless to say.

As far as a junker, just look in the papers. &nbsp;People often times sell functional cars for under 300 bucks. &nbsp;Or keep your eyes peeled for cars that have sat in people's yards too long. &nbsp;Chances are if you offer them some money, you can drive it home. &nbsp;I've got a 86 Supra staked out in East Flag. &nbsp;Nothing but goddamn crack addicts, but if it's still there when I have room for another project car, I might go for it.