PowerFC D-Jetro Setup with Pictures

[jspaeth]

I figured this might be useful to some other people doing this in the future.

Sometime in the future, I will be getting a Greddy Intake Manifold, and when I do, I will tap directly into the manifold for the Intake Air Temp. Sensor.....for now, I just drilled and tapped into my cold pipe, just in front of the TB.....the Air Temp Sensor is an FD RX-7 sensor, Mazda part number (N3A1-18-845).....the threads are M10, 1.25 pitch...I used a rubber O-ring on the outside, and it twisted in snuggly enough for now...into a thicker piece of metal, like the IM, it will hold even better

http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC1.JPG

http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC2.JPG

http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC3.JPG

http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC4.JPG



Then, fish the two harnesses (pressure sensor & Intake Air Temp sensor) through the hole in the firewall behind the ABS module, and into the car....they come out down behind the glove compartment.....

http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC5.JPG



The IAT harness has 2 wires, red and brown.....the red wire is the signal wire, and the brown is a ground.....the PFC manual, although in Japanese, properly tells you where the two wires go.....the one on the top row is a "sensor ground", and the one on the bottom row is the "exhaust gas temperature sensor".....

http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC6.JPG


http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC7.JPG


when I looked at my stock ECU (from a 96-99 Blacktop, J4 ECU), there was no wire in the bottom row for the "exhaust gas temperature sensor":


http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC8.JPG


However, the PFC comes with a short piece of wire with a pin on the end that can be inserted into the empty slot.....simply pop the top off of the section (the blue piece is tabbed and bends back) and push the new pin into place:

http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC10.JPG

http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC11.JPG


Finally, splice the red wire into the new short piece that you just inserted, and splice the brown wire into the ground wire that was shown above:

http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC12.JPG

http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC9.JPG


Plug the IAT sensor and pressure sensors into their plugs in the engine bay, and mount the boost sensor wherever you choose.

The pressure sensor should have a vacuum line going to the intake manifold.

Plug the other end of the pressure sensor harness into the PFC, in the 3 pin slot on the side.

Plug the commander into its appropriate plug on the ECU.

MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE MAFS!!!! (I left mine in place, bc I went back to the stock ECU after checking to make sure the PFC started up okay).

*** Also, I am running an Apex'i AVC-R for boost control, which was already wired into the harness....I have been told this is much better than the built in boost controller in the PFC...

Prior to STARTING the car, go to "ETC." on the Commander, and hit "NEXT"

Go to "FUNCTION SELECT", and go to "BOOST CONTROL KIT"

Move over to the right, and toggle the Japanese character to off...

http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/PFCSetup/PFC13.JPG


Now, you can start the car....

It should start properly....allow it to idle for 10 minutes, then turn on the A/C (I don't have A/C, but I did this anyway since I'm precaucious) and let it idle for another 10 minutes, then turn off the A/C and turn on the rear defroster and let it idle for 10 more minutes.

Now it is setup and ready to go....I gave it a drive around the block and it felt fine....slightly different feel on decel compared to the stock ECU, but these is completely untuned so that's what you'd expect.

Also, a cool function of the PFC is you can get a bunch of great readouts, like air/water temp., knock level, O2 sensor voltage, etc.

You can see the 02 sensor voltage by going to ETC-->Sensor and Switch

I was worried for a while that my 02 sensor was suchking, but sure enough, when I checked the voltage reading, it bounced back and forth from near 0 to near 1 every second or so, as it should when the AFRs are neither too rich nor too lean.

The air/water temps can be checked under MONITOR-->(then pick how many channels you want to monitor)-->(then select which channels you want)--->check 'em out


Okay hope this helps some people.

~Justin

[ManoNegra]

Neato bandito.

[vutony]

good stuff
wat made you choose this over l-jetro

[jspaeth]

The guy that is gonna tune mine is very experienced with D-jetro, and you can make more power safely (or so I've heard)

Plus there is something that makes me happy about the fact that you are measuring the properties of the air at the last possible moment before it enters the engine, NOT PRE-TURBO!

Anyways, for how much a used Z32 MAFS costs, it's not that much more anyways.

I have heard they are harder to tune, but the people that actually know how to do it have told me they can make more power, and safely so.

word

[D1S13]

Very Helpful

looking to purchase one for my 14 soon!

[slideways2004]

nice write up. can you post a pic of the cold pipe finished/installed with the 2 sensors? also pressure sensor = map right??

[jspaeth]

Ya I will post that up....pressure sensor = MAP sensor = Mass Air Pressure Sensor...

I didn't show a pic of the MAP mounted, bc I honestly didnt mount it yet haha


I will probably just ziptie it to something

wordizzle

[LESS-TRACTION-MORE-ACTION]

Hell yes been looking for this info for what feels like an eternity, as i brought one with instruction manual.... Thanks so much!!!!

[ryangreg]

do more research on the placement of the IAT. Having it directly in the manifold is a bad idea as it will heat soak very quickly and then the ECU is registering the corrections tables for high IAT's when your charge air isnt even that hot.

Your current placement is ideal.

[rc1honda]

I have a l-jetro and i was wondering if you had to adjust for bigger injectors. Also i read in the thread http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/226628-powerfc-tuning-setupguide.html that the d-jetro is significantly harder to tune then the L-jetro. I know the d-jetro can make more power cuz it's not limited by the maf voltage but i thought thats only above about 500hp (where the z32 maf hits a voltage wall) , but will it make more power then the same setup but with the l-jetro? Im interested. I wonder if i should of just got the d-jetro then. Great write up keep it coming along with the tuning results.

[slider2828]

I have a l-jetro and i was wondering if you had to adjust for bigger injectors. Also i read in the thread http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/226628-powerfc-tuning-setupguide.html that the d-jetro is significantly harder to tune then the L-jetro. I know the d-jetro can make more power cuz it's not limited by the maf voltage but i thought thats only above about 500hp (where the z32 maf hits a voltage wall) , but will it make more power then the same setup but with the l-jetro? Im interested. I wonder if i should of just got the d-jetro then. Great write up keep it coming along with the tuning results.

This is a 2 year old post guys get with it. If you aren't limited by the MAFS then L-Jetro is fine. Doesn't do crackshit if you car is under 550+ on a Z32 mafs as that is the range. Tuning is the damn same, arbitrary load numbers and rpm across the top. Load is calculated by PSI, TPS and one other thing. Doesn't make a difference like I said under 550+

do more research on the placement of the IAT. Having it directly in the manifold is a bad idea as it will heat soak very quickly and then the ECU is registering the corrections tables for high IAT's when your charge air isnt even that hot.

Your current placement is ideal.

No Idea what the heck you are referring to. But in general its suggested to be placed in the intake manifold. I don't think it will heat soak as its a thermistor that has a very high tolerance to heat and if your intake heats up that much, then your car is really having problems. I can do pulls on my car without the intake manifold being too hot to touch.

[slider2828]

A better suggestion for anyone installing IAT without a welder.

Get a M10x1.25 pitch bolt and nut.
Get a drill bit for that size
Get JB Weld (Cheap)

Drill it. Screw the bolt into the nut and both pieces into the piping. It should be snug to hold the bolt there... Then JBWeld the nut to the piping. Wait till dry over night, unscrew the bolt and now you have a perfect sealed hole for the IAT.

BEFORE putting the IAT in, add some RTV to the based of the IAT screw, and THEN screw it in. This for sure makes a perfect seal, I will have pics.

[shmiddy]

nice job!

msglth

[s13slideways]

great write up!!! Thanx

[drifter_for_life06]

good info, as I plan to be purchasing a PFC in the very near future