Post your speaker set up.

[nani]

I have OEM speakers and a small 8 inch sub powered by my almighty EBAY amp . I want to get better speakers and see what others have :bigok:

[bigOdom1]

alpine type R 6.5 all around powered by mtx amp and a pioneer head unit

[nani]

did you get those Ebay adapters for the speakers?

[98koukile]

Infinitys all around powered by an alpine HU and amp with a kicker amp and solobaric in the rear quarter panel

Talk to Broadfield if you want a good setup, he's on here I think and N**O, its been so long I don't remember... his car was just in a mag and he's been in car audio for years

[muddafakka]

I have Alpine Type R speakers all around and an Alpine CDA-9856 head unit.

[Sonic Motor]

i have computer speakers mounted to my seats, and a computer sub in the back seat. Wired up to my mp3 player. its dope! hahaha...

[drifting.8]

i was wanting to put a 10 inch alumipro sub in my coupe but i need a custom box how'd u guys do it ??

[FusionR240sx]

yeaa broadfields your main man for apline HU and stuff like thatt..
i got a alpine HU with pioneers all around. sound is amazing even at high levels. i just need a small amp for the speakers and another for a alpine type R 10" sub that i plan on buying.

[the head]

Infinity Kappa coaxials powered by an older Eclipse deck no sub no amps

[exitspeed]

Car came with Sony Explodes. They sound decent enough for me.

I wish I had my old set-up back. MB Quarts coax in the front, 6x9 in the back, Pioneer Premier amp, Clarion deck. A lotta nice mid bass with that set-up. Fuckin thieves.

[GSXRJJordan]

I did a pretty professional write-up on getting good audio out of a S13/S14... let me find it...

Edit: here we go.


I just read most of this, thinking "oh shit this is going to be another blind-leading-the-blind 240sx audio thread", until BustedS13 came in and said everything I'd say (well, most of it).

I hate 4x6's. They're fucking useless, unless you free-air mount an 8" somewhere to fill in.

Let me start by saying I used to be very interested in IASCA SQ, and built a great VW Golf to compete with under the direction of a guy named Devin Oliver that builds some of the best car amplifiers money can buy... www.trutechnology.com (http://www.trutechnology.com/). I have a very decent system in my S13. Total $ is around $1200. That's NOTHING as far as SQ systems are concerned. I built this system to be small, inexpensive, and efficient.

http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/9353/hpim0111qr4.jpg

http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/8097/hpim0110qx9.jpg

In the first shot you can see the fiberglass door panel for my CDT 6.5" woofers, part of a custom set I put together - basically I got a mid-range component set (HD-series), and upgraded to their top-of-the-line crossover (CDT EX-560i) and their top-of-the-line silk 1" tweeter (CDT TW-25). I've got Dynamat lining the inside of the pod all the way into the door to reduce vibration and let the 6.5"s play all the way down to 250hz or so.

The second shot shows the tweeter mounted in the A pillar, pointed to play off the windshield. This takes care of the front soundstage VERY well. I run a potentiometer to dial in tweeter gain for windows up/down.

With my hookup, I can get this same component setup for you guys for <$400/set. Possibly much less.

My head unit's a mid-range Alpine - if you're serious about audio and don't want to run a line driver, don't get an Alpine. Pre-outs are kind of weak (although they claim to be 5v). I recommend Kenwood. Don't believe published pre-outs - ask around on caraudioforums/etc about which head units have the cleanest output, and buy accordingly.

I don't have any pictures of the back, but it's a 1.75 ft^3 vented box I built out of 3/4" MDF that's 12.5" tall (so it fits under my rear deck) and has about 5" of clearance on both sides between the strut towers (bass needs space to travel through to the cabin), and houses my Image Dynamics IDMax 10" and Arc Audio Foose Designs 4150 (conservatively rated at 80W RMSx4 @ 4ohms, so about 200W bridged into my 4ohm IDMax). I'll have to get some pics up. My first setup was a super cheap Soundstream SQ10" and Soundstream Rubicon 40w RMSx4, and sounded really good. As long as you go with clean power and a SQ-oriented (and therefore efficient) woofer, your bass will be very clean and sound good ALL THE TIME.

Long story short, you need:
- 6.5" drivers up front, and a door pod that points them at the opposing seat's head is ideal (and easy to make). If you're interested, I'll tell ya how to do it. Notice I don't have any rear speakers - don't need em.
- 10" sub for SQ, 12" sub for SPL. Good subs w/good power sound good, bad subs or good subs with bad power sound like ass. If you don't know what you're doing, contact me for build specs and I'll help you make a sealed box for your sub. Point it straight back, sitting against your strut tower bar.
- Decent 4ch amp. I can help you find something. Like BustedS13 said, Hifonics and Phoenix Gold make good sounding (and decently efficient) amps at GREAT prices.

I "bolded" all the equipment for skimmers. Anyone in the LA area can come hear my system if you're interested in great sound. If you like big boom in the trunk, mine'll do that too, but I don't let it :) PM me for any tips/tricks, I'd love to improve the 240sx community's audio setups.

[posdriftin]

i was wanting to put a 10 inch alumipro sub in my coupe but i need a custom box how'd u guys do it ??


if s13 ...make a custom box like i did to fit my 12..

[JoeC1982]

Kenwood Excelon deck with sirius tuner, JBL Px300.4 4 channel amp, 6.5" components(not bought/installed yet), and JBL Power 10" sub in a fiberglass enclosure in the right rear quarter panel.

[GSXRJJordan]

Kenwood Excelon deck with sirius tuner, JBL Px300.4 4 channel amp, 6.5" components(not bought/installed yet), and JBL Power 10" sub in a fiberglass enclosure in the right rear quarter panel.

UGH please don't put that sub in the quarterpanel. The sound waves coming out of a sub are longer (lower freq = longer wavelength), and need lots of space to fully form in order to sound good. Putting a sub in a 1/4" thick metal box (like the skin of your car), and facing it sideways, with only 3 ft in front of it will make your bass sound HORRIBLE - won't hit hard, and will resonate at some unpleasant freqs.

Please build a small sealed box that sits against the back of your back seat (if you have one) and faces backwards (or forwards, if you like it better). Your ears will thank you whenever you play something other than hip hop.

[JoeC1982]

UGH please don't put that sub in the quarterpanel. The sound waves coming out of a sub are longer (lower freq = longer wavelength), and need lots of space to fully form in order to sound good. Putting a sub in a 1/4" thick metal box (like the skin of your car), and facing it sideways, with only 3 ft in front of it will make your bass sound HORRIBLE - won't hit hard, and will resonate at some unpleasant freqs.

Please build a small sealed box that sits against the back of your back seat (if you have one) and faces backwards (or forwards, if you like it better). Your ears will thank you whenever you play something other than hip hop.
I'll post the pics when i get home so you can see it, its not at all like you described it. i've been doing this for along time, i'll let the pics do the talking.

[drifter808]

Alpine Head unit w/ ipod link
Alpine Type R 6x9 in doors w/crossovers and tweeters
Alpine 4x6 in trunk
Alpine type-x 12'' in custom sound tuned box
Alpine 600 rms for sub
Alpine 250 rms for mids and highs

i gotta stop

[CusCo_S14]

im running an Eclipse in-dash monitor, Focal 6.5 components,Focal 6.5 mids,12'' Kicker CVX, 1200w MTX mono sub amp, 300w Alpine 4ch.

post pics later, soon as i take some.

[89singlecamnoob]

Panasonic mp3 head unit, 6.5" alpine type-r's in the doors, infinity Kappa's in the rear and a 10" Polk db sub, and an amp which i don't recall the make...decent little setup.

[drifter808]

all 3 ^^^^ at the same time

[victorw210]

i have alpine type s in the back and some kenwood speakers up front all 6.5s and a mid range kenwood deck and my system sounds great

[sxslider]

i have sony explode 4 way, for the door and rear deck in my hatch, subs are a waste of weight, imo..

[driftyour40]

infinity references 6.5" in front components front audioban 6.5" components in rear alpine deck infinity 4 channel amp, directed 12" sub and sub amp, Not sure on how much power any of it is but it sounds good with the exception of the audiobans.

I’m holding out for another set of references for the rear, then I’m going to redo all the wiring (it’s a mess right now) then I’m done never to mess with an audio system again. I hate wires.

[JoeC1982]

infinity references 6.5" in front components front audioban 6.5" components in rear alpine deck infinity 4 channel amp, directed 12" sub and sub amp, Not sure on how much power any of it is but it sounds good with the exception of the audiobans.

I’m holding out for another set of references for the rear, then I’m going to redo all the wiring (it’s a mess right now) then I’m done never to mess with an audio system again. I hate wires.
I'd skip the second set of references and get a nicer set for the front and bi-amp or bridge your 4 channel to the front component set.

[Wabash9000]

Head Unit: Panasonic CQ-C8303U
Front Speakers: Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5"
Rear Speakers: Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5"
Factory Amps: Removed
Amp: running off head unit
Speaker Wire: Stinger 14 Gauge

Sub: Rockford Fosgate Punch Stage 2 10"
Amp: Rockford Fosgate 325.2
Wire Kit: Rockford Fosgate 10ga
Box: .5 cu ft sealed ebay box.


Future upgrades:
Rockford Fosgate Punch P400-4 Amp for speakers
Apline SPR-17S Component Speakers for the door/pillars

Oh this all is in a s14 base with the premium sound and sunroof.

[GSXRJJordan]

I'd skip the second set of references and get a nicer set for the front and bi-amp or bridge your 4 channel to the front component set.

Yup, that's what I did (no rear channel for me). At the very least, get something decent for the front and move the reference set to the rear.

[BustedS13]

i've played the subwoofer game. i went through a few sets in my 240. the last i had were a pair of 12" Diamond CM5's pushed by a Phoenix Gold 1200.1 (papers showed max output 1489.1w), but now i'm not a child, and prefer some balance.

my CL:
Alpine Type R (SPR17S) 6.5 comps front/rear ([email protected])
two Hifonics ZX 6006 amps ([email protected])
RF 1 farad cap

shit screams. i'm thinking about adding a single 10" diamond, but i'll probably sell this car before i get to that... at which point a pair of the Alpines will go in the 240's doors, along with one of the amps. for the rear, i think i'm just going to stick some 4" comp plate speakers in the 4x6 holes for some fill, since i'll be gutting most of the interior from the seats back. stereo isn't going to be a huge concern this time around.

[JoeC1982]

I just ordered some base model a pillars so i don't have to try and use the factory holes for my tweeters, i'll post pics of that as well when i get the tweets mounted.

[importdude]

stock tweets
alpine type R in front
no rear speakers

(waiting to buy tweeets+xovers for the comps that i bought wihtout em)

1 12' kicker comp

panasonic 8403 deck
factory amp

simple basic and sounds awesome
cant wait for the comps to be put in front

[Ninjabread]

Alpine CDA9831 (SICK) headunit
Two 6.5 phoenix gold (old skewl) in the fronts with adapters.

Good enough for me.

[s13gold]

Alpine Headunit with ipod connection
6.5" MB Quart Component Setup x2
-Rockford Fosgate 4 Channel AMP
10" JLw3 x2
-JBL 1200.1 Mono AMP

Full trunk and hatch DYNAMAT.

I think my setup cost me around 1200 IIRC.

[Koopa Troopa]

Tweeters and some Alpine replacement speakers with a crappy headunit...

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b267/koopatroopa187/Sillbeer%20S14/CRW_0854.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b267/koopatroopa187/Sillbeer%20S14/CRW_0624.jpg

You can see a speaker if you look through the window screen....

My friend said he put some 6x9's or something in it but the guy driving the car right now hasn't said anything about new speakers in it. I was wanting to get some subs in the car but it'd sound horrible with the cage and the bare metal...

[BBSilvia]

Eclipse Se8464E all around and Alpine CDA-9887 head unit

[Jmedrano411]

i got a 12" Sub (JL 12W6) a Alpine headset (9881) Pioneer Tweeters and all new speakers
knocks hard :D

[LA_phantom_240]

Stock factory A-Pillar tweeters (gonna change after christmas)
Blaupunkt door speakers (they gotta go!)
Pioneer 6.5" Rev series Coaxials in the rear (very nice speakers, try em)
Alpine MRV-1507 amp powering a 10" Kicker CVX in a 2 cube box tuned to 34Hz.
Pioneer Pemier DEH-680MP. Best headunit I've owned.

I would recommend a CVX to ANYONE. Clean, loud, sane.

[driftyour40]

I'd skip the second set of references and get a nicer set for the front and bi-amp or bridge your 4 channel to the front component set.

I have thought about getting better speakers for the front, but to be honest I’m done with audio crap, just want to finish what I have started at this point. Thanks for the suggestion though.

[ryguy]

I have a JVC HDR1 head unit- (built in HD radio, I love it because there are like two dozen HD stations in Chicago.)
JVC iPod interface
Infinity Reference 4.5" front and 6" back
JVC 200 watt amplifier powering a JVC 12" sub, sealed box.
Crutchfied Bass Blockers on the front speakers.

By the way, the 4.5 inch speakers are much more impressive than I would have imagined.

[Slammed180]

Pioneer DEH-P9800BT w/ ipod aux. imputJL Evolution VR690-CXi 6x9 in the rearJL Evolution TR400-CXi 4" rounds up frontJL 300/2 amp ( powering the rear speakers)No sub and amp picked up yet.

[smelly240]

my stuff sux - i'll probably just take the shit all out soon.

[origin_s135]

not in my car but for my computer, it's hooked up to a Nakamichi soundspace8

[JoeC1982]

pics as promised...

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b101/unpredictableacts/100_2055.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b101/unpredictableacts/100_2065.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b101/unpredictableacts/100_2072.jpg

the amp is on the driver side with the carpeted cover featuring the JBL logo.

[adrians_s13]

i have computer speakers mounted to my seats, and a computer sub in the back seat. Wired up to my mp3 player. its dope! hahaha...

damn Jackson!

:bowrofl:

[P_856]

Alpine CDA-9887 head unit
Pioneer 6x9s in the door
polk 4x6s in the back and sony 6x9s in a box
and a 4 ch amp for the 6x9s

does any body have a pic of a sub in the side wheel wheel on an s13 i saw one awhile back but cant find it now

[Tops*]

3" JDM exhaust. Soon to be 3" straight pipe to A Spec Blastpipes (with resonator, probably a muffler).

I really want a nice set of components and an amp to push them, but I just have better things to spend money on. Maybe the daily will have a nice system. Someday...

[98koukile]

Damn JoeC I wish mine looked that good... mines tucked more into the quarter and attached to the tabs that hold the carpet with freeze plugs and long bolts I ghetto rigged and its sitting on guitar amp feet so it doesnt rattle

[carbonx240]

Alpine (dvd stereo, i think the d 100, (i forgot the model name) etc
2 r..fosgate amps(2 channel, and 4 channels)(1500, 1400 watts), the capacitor.infinitive rear spear and eclipse front speakes)(watts(forgot).
2 JLA W2 15 inch subwoofer. Pionner graphic equalizer.



http://s249.photobucket.com/al...anium (http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg220/240titanium)/ I hope to no get any insult. i got plenty before. It's a project, and if you tell me: bro,your car s.... is not good, but if you said(do you mind if i tell you that i hate your car, so is fine. is hard to accept blunt comments.....

[hstylez]

What speakers? My car was broken into and the bastard cut my radio hardness to get it out, what a tool. I didnt really feel like dealing with all the wires so I took all my audio shit out of my car. Gets boring sometimes lol....

[JoeC1982]

Damn JoeC I wish mine looked that good... mines tucked more into the quarter and attached to the tabs that hold the carpet with freeze plugs and long bolts I ghetto rigged and its sitting on guitar amp feet so it doesnt rattle
Thanks, i've had lots of very high end equipment but i'm very proud of the actual install portion this time. the fiberglass box saves some weight over mdf as well. for guys worried about weight you can use 1/2" baltic birch which is lighter and stronger than 3/4" mdf.

[Farkel]

Everything you need to know about my setup:
http://turborush.com/hosted/zjournal/soundsystem.php

[sijia10358]

i have computer speakers mounted to my seats, and a computer sub in the back seat. Wired up to my mp3 player. its dope! hahaha...

thats the best setup! cheap, easy and it works!!


Everything you need to know about my setup:
http://turborush.com/hosted/zjournal/soundsystem.php

thats some crazy work!!! GJ!!!! im gonna take my car to you if i have any audio problems!!! =D

[breakindrifts]

3 inch straight pipe no cat no muffler out of two 2.5 outlets from NA KA<--- my sound system.

[carbonx240]

hstyles
just connect everything straight to the battery and use a breaker, in that way u won't burn anything, like your stereo or your amp.and besides that, you won't need your key to turn on the radio...sorry to hear that, in Mexico my stereo was stolen twice, one by an ex-friend, but the police stole(the local) all my cd collection.....and is easier connect everything didirect to the batttt,cause u can forget all those wires colors and combinatio(depend, no really hard but, they must match

[Tops*]

3 inch straight pipe no cat no muffler out of two 2.5 outlets from NA KA<--- my sound system.

Word. Check out my set up near the top.

I used to have two JL Audio 12W3v1's powered by a Hifonics Brutus 1605D. Decided to upgrade. Bought a 500/1 with plans of buying one 13W6, but came across a 12W7 that I couldn't pass up. So, traded my 500/1 and $100 for a 1000/1. Too bad I never received my end of the trade...Yuba City mother fucker.

Now I want some nice components. My current Pioneer's have ABSOLUTELY NO midbass and below and I listen to mostly hip-hop and R&B.

[DreamN]

Haven't installed them yet, but here's mine:

- Pioneer Headunit DEH-690UB
- Infinity 6.5" Speakers REF6022SI (Front)
- Infinity 6"x9" Speakers REF9622I (Rear)

Might switch the 6"x9" Speakers for another set of 6.5," but not until I actually hear what the system sounds like.

No subwoofer or amp. Just keeping it simple and clean :D

[Ragnarok043]

Head Unit - Pioneer Premier DEH-P880PRS
Front Speakers - MB Quart Components
Rear Speakers - Diamond Audio Components
Sub - Custom Fiberglass Side Compartment W/ JL10W3
4 Channel Amp - Phoenix Gold Tantrum 300.4
Sub Amp - Planet Audio 200.2

Future Plans
Full Active Front Speakers Only w/ Focal K2
Amp - Audison VRx 4.300 or LRx 4.1K
Sub Amp - undecided atleast 500W

[ALEXTHESUS*PECT]

6.5 in the front doors. that's it!

[nani]

pics as promised...





http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b101/unpredictableacts/100_2072.jpg

the amp is on the driver side with the carpeted cover featuring the JBL logo.


LOL here it looks like your car has a huge tumor in the trunk :bowrofl:

[carbonx240]

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg220/240titanium/a4.jpg

i got to many insults before, but now i am tough enought to handle that, feel free,( =R..fosgate power, dawm sweet...at least, this is the speaker set up. forum....

[TheBigDirty]

Pioneer headunit w/ipod connect
sony xplod 6x9s all around
dual 460w 2 channel
fosgate punch 12 in custom box
^looks great in my gutted trunk

[94cc0rd]

Alpine 9855 headunit
Infinity Kappa 6.5" component set (custom mounted the tweeters)
Rockford Fosgate 6.5"s (dunno model) in rear (one might be blown)
DHD 200x4 amp for speakers
2 12" Pioneer subs in a sealed box
Kicker kx800.2 for subs

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/sennett0r/IMG_1946.jpg

I want to upgrade the component set up front to the CDT set and swap out my subs for a single 10 or 12".. I have no trunk space. and I have my subs pointed up because with the little space I have, it was the only way to fit it all... I regret going with 2 12"s...

Any recommedation for a single 10 or 12" in a sealed box and a 4 channel amp that can run a component set and the sub?

[S13Boosts]

^

nice setup clean & flush:eek2:

[98koukile]

Anyone else lose all tweeter noise with the window open? I'm sure its more the wind noise interfering than anything but is there anyway to compensate for that with a different tweeter placement? The other thing I wanna do is move my rear speakers off the deck and onto the rear side trim for more sound quality

[GSXRJJordan]

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg220/240titanium/a4.jpg

i got to many insults before, but now i am tough enought to handle that, feel free,( =R..fosgate power, dawm sweet...at least, this is the speaker set up. forum....

You didn't show your speaker setup AT ALL. And btw your harness setup is unsafe as hell.

... I want to upgrade the component set up front to the CDT set and swap out my subs for a single 10 or 12".. I have no trunk space. and I have my subs pointed up because with the little space I have, it was the only way to fit it all... I regret going with 2 12"s...

Any recommedation for a single 10 or 12" in a sealed box and a 4 channel amp that can run a component set and the sub?

Read my post! I have exactly what you're looking to upgrade to.

Anyone else lose all tweeter noise with the window open? I'm sure its more the wind noise interfering than anything but is there anyway to compensate for that with a different tweeter placement? The other thing I wanna do is move my rear speakers off the deck and onto the rear side trim for more sound quality

Yeah I run a home-audio/stereophile quality potentiometer up front (under my seat bracket) wired into the tweeter leads, after the crossover. My crossovers have a -0db "main tweeter" output meant for tweeter placed off-axis to the listener, and a -6db "image tweeter" output for tweeters placed on-axis... since mine are +- 5* off axis, I would normally run the tweets on the "image" output, but with the pot on there, I can run them on the "main" output for when the windows are down (and only turn the pot down about 10% for optimal tweeter volume), then when I roll the windows up, I turn it down even more. Works great :) Another suggestion from Devin Oliver @ Audio Advice in La Crescenta.

Seriously, PM me if anyone's interested in getting a good sound system put together - I love SQ setups!!!

[Cash]

Pioneer AVIC D1 navi head unit

Infiniti reference 6.5 speakers

Alpine R12 sub with alpine amp

walmart sub enclosure

[nani]

What is the difference between an open sub box and a sealed one?

[kernel]

Kenwood Excelon HU *might change it soon*

CDT ES-650 6.5" Components speakers
Nakamichi PA-2100 for speakers

Alpine Type-S 12" Sub w/ sealed box
JL Audio E1400 for subs

kinda basic but sounds very good.

[GSXRJJordan]

What is the difference between an open sub box and a sealed one?

Open sub box, meaning free-air mount? Or open sub box meaning vented/ported?

Subs work based off air pressure - a magnet energizes a coil, moving the cone, changing the air pressure in front and behind that cone, making sound. The speaker is brought back to rest by the "suspension", meaning the rubber surround. Still with me?

Most speakers have more powerful voice coils than suspension, so they need the surrounding air to help hold the cone in the magnetic gap for optimum performance. Almost there...

Free air (or infinite baffle, as it's sometimes called) is where you mount the speaker with no enclosure, and therefore no suspension help from the air. This is fine for small drivers (tweeters, midrange, small subs) but doesn't work well when you want to play low. Don't free-air mount your sub.

A sealed box uses the air behind the speaker as a spring, making it less efficient, but allowing a smaller amount of air to do more "suspending"... i.e. smaller box size. Also, its kind of foolproof (just about any shape works, as long as the volume of air in the box is somewhere near correct).

A ported (or vented) box works on the principle that the speaker makes sound in front and behind the cone, so why waste the sound energy behind the cone by muffling it in a sealed space? You still need the air to act as suspension, though, so what you do is make a small hole that lets a specific volume of air work as suspension, while still allowing certain frequencies of sound waves behind the speaker to exit the box - the center of the frequency range is the tuning frequency of the box. Naturally, these boxes are more complicated, but are ALWAYS more efficient (more volume with less power) and almost always sound better.

Bandpass boxes are just ported boxes with another tuned/ported enclosure attached to the front of the speaker. More efficient still, but not as acoustically pleasing. dB drag pros use bandpass. SQ pros use vented/ported.

Edit: Here's a pic of my last ported enclosure for my SQ system in the 240. Soundstream Reference 10" (from back when Reference meant Audiophile) and a tiny Class A/AB hybrid (A on the hot side) Soundstream amp... note the sanded smooth ABS pipe, and shape of the box (wide, so the pipe/port has adequate clearance on the inside).
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/7941/img00062gl5.jpg

I hope people are bookmarking this, it's good shit.

[gmarzan]

Clarion double din HU with 6.75 Bose rears and 5.25 Bose fronts/tweeters with Bose amplifier taken from a Q45. Wiring the amp was not that hard since I have the fsm for both cars and i'm an EE. The Bose system was free, so why not.

[bo2o]

headunit: alpine cda9857
front speakers: boston acoustics z6 components
amp: elemental designs nine.2x

[sillydrift]

i have pioneer DEH7700 headunit and polk db components in the front powered by a 2 channel audiobahn amp and polk db coaxials in the rear, good bass response and no need for a sub

[carbonx240]

grsxjjornad....nice job

[ohsoslo]

eclipse cd4000 head unit and boston s series speakers front/back....i live out of town and would go crazy without music, otherwise i would have thrown it all out a long time ago.

[SicKesT]

i wanted to know how shallow your speakers really have to be for a s13 hatch in the door. I was probably gunna go with alpine spr-17c and some infinity kappa 62.7i. I was just wondering if you guys had anything to warn me about or could tell if these might be too thick, i heard if the speakers in the door are too thick you can't roll down the window all the way. Any advice?

[SicKesT]

nvm i just found a website and if anyone else had this question for maximum depth fo any car look here.
Nissan 240SX Hatchback 89-93 Front Door 4 x 6 1 3/4 deep
Rear Side Shelves 4 x 6 5" Deep
http://cardiscountstereos.com/SpeakerGuide20.asp

[wayneside]

(2) 12 inch Fusion Powerplant subs
(2) 6.5 inch Fusion Powerplant components

http://a395.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/66/l_37e9017e3806d3ba5d3f5ac2e2662832.jpg

http://a97.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/21/l_9bb7fc41dd8bdfb1505b46297687dc78.jpg

This is my old set up...its all new now.

[cook22]

i got a sony head unit with 2 10" explodes in the back, everything else is stock

[swayray]

my $10 speakers are being held by zipties... 6.5" up front and 5.5" at the back...

All i hear is treble... i have no bass... the bass is all in my head.... i heard benson said that's drifter style right there...

[MeSs]

I have a pair of VDO 5,5".. Which i got for free.

[hellaflush]

jvc avx805 double din 7" indash
250gb seagate 3.5" external usb hdd
4x DLS 2 way 6"

will post pics tonite

[4bangers]

for an S14 rear speaker what is the size? what is a good brand? I heard infinity is good

[sliksta1]

alpine CDA-9831
alpine type r 6.5 component system (front)
alpine type r 6x9 (rear)
i just need to get a 4 channel alpine amp.

[olah.inc]

Clarion Dxz 958rmc
Amps: Signat lab2, Audison SRX2, Eton PA2802
Speaker: Eton A1 and RsAudio T25 Tweeter
Woofer: Peerless XXLS 12cw
complete fullactive

old pic
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/504/doorrechtsef7.jpg

[hellaflush]

6" for s14 rears is perfect :)

depends if you pose or race... if you have no rear interior no matter what you do its not going to sound absolutely fantastic as it wont be enclosed... mine still sounds good with no interior still

[down_shift]

I was happy with all stock for years, but when I got $100 gift card my audiophile friend made me upgrade. 6.5 Infintys in the front and dirt cheap 6.5 Dual Audios in the rear. Sounds a lot better then my completely dry rotted ones.

[BoostinGST]

i have no stereo in my 240, my DD has 2 alpine type-r 12s, a 1200w jbl amp, kenwoods for mids/highs, and a panasonic head unit. its not too shabby, i bought alot more for the s14 to do a carputer setup but i dont want the extra weight now.

[miucus]

blown stock speakers on all 4 corners with some cheap kenwood headunit

[Dirty Habit]

Stock casette, 4 blown speakers. Woo.

[JRas]

blown stock speakers on all 4 corners with some cheap kenwood headunit

same except with a pioneer unit :down:

[4bangers]

so stock rear S14 speaker size is 6" is it a circular speaker? I thought the stock is more oval?

[astrophixvox]

6.5 w/ adapters
4x6 in the rear
Kenwood deck
Sub tube in the back

Nothing to crazy.

[ms!3]

id love to just have a set of bose speakers. my car came with sony explods and they blow. haha

[deltacruisin]

well seeing that i dont have my car at home with me at the moment, I can't be too specific...

but..

2 10" diamond d3's, quantum audio amp (pushing about 1k watts, since blown)
diamond tweets in the doors run paralel with the door stockers (yeah i know, garbage stockers, prob as old as the car)
sony deck (not too bad, had the ipod hookups and a subwoofer level control at a decent price)

unballanced, but i loved it.

[RUTH'LESSDET]

Infinity reference up front
infinity kappas in the rear
12" square solo baric sub
old school 500 watt rockford amp
pioneer in dash

[Koopa Troopa]

I envy all you with awesome speaker set ups... I'll be enjoying my shitty Alpines and my entire car vibrating due to every single mount and bushing being solid.. :rofl:

[THEMkris]

soo like.. does anyone have pics of their subwoofers installed in a s14?? i have no idea where to put it and i dont want just any box that'll move around.. i dont want to mount it.. i dont want it all blingyyyy.. and i dont want it molded.. i just want a simple box that fits in a specific area without it being totally screwed into my car.. i dunno how to explain it.. but yea.. i just have a small 10" i wanna put in too.. just dont know what kind of box and where to put it.. any help???

[racepar1]

My only speaker is my buddy club spec2! I probably couldn't hear anything over it anyways. I decided to ditch ANY creature comforts of a street car (including heater and A/C) after my head unit got stolen by a stupid ass drunk douchebag that cut the wires going to the power transistor so he couldn't even use it. He then stole my neighbor's car and crashed it into a parked car a few blocks away. REALLY smart thief, I think the cops found him passed out in the driver's seat. :Owned:

[s14_mike]

mb quart components in the front
mb quart coaxles in the rear
200x4 kicker amp
350x1 kicker amp
10" kicker comp

[MAGILLA]

Alpine cva1006 head unit
6.5" cove audio components up front
nothing on the rear deck
cheap 10" sub in the trunk
all pushed by a jbl 4 channel
I have more stuff to put in but I have been lazy

[khmer1]

car system setup is a mp3 player with head phone that how i roll ahaha weight reduction......

[gojira]

I'm prolly gonna get flamed but... how the heck do u fit a bigger speaker in an s13 door without having to get u custom door panels?

[GSXRJJordan]

I'm prolly gonna get flamed but... how the heck do u fit a bigger speaker in an s13 door without having to get u custom door panels?

Custom door pods are not the same as custom panels - you keep the panel, just add a 6.5" ring on the outside. There are ebay specials that allow you to do it cheaply, but I did mine correctly (correct angle, spacing, dynamat inside, and vinyl covering).

[Future240]

I have twin memphis 15" subs (250 rms)
Pioneer Headunit
Pioneer Speakers
Sony Explod 1200 watt amp, 250 rms (say what you want, i shake windows wit that thing)

Soon/Hopefully to be traded out with
Same Pioneer Head Unit
Twin Kicker L7 15"s (1000 rms each)
Lanzer 4500 watt amp (2000 rms)
Upgraded Pionner mids

and no this is not in a 240, note the name, it will be goin in a 1987 Maxima. Speakers are so powerful if i was to run it on a stock elecetrical system I would be short about 110 amps of power.

[Chernobyl]

I have the best stereo system in my 240.

Stock S14 speakers, two of which still work. Probably look something like:
http://www.merryswankster.com/images/BrokenAmp.jpg

Stock tape player. The screen doesn't work at all. Tape adaptor 90's style.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/150/qj50.jpg

Nokia N82 full of MP3s.
http://www.pmptoday.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/nokia-n82-camera-phone.jpg


It sounds terrible. Also, probably the most odd-couple mixture of old and new technology.

[hegamiz]

Head Unit: Eclipse CD5000
Front Speakers: Polk Audio MOMO MMC6500 6.5"
Rear Speakers: Polk Audio MOMO MMC650 6.5"
Factory Amps: By-passed
Amp (for speakers): MTX Audio Thunder Elite TE1004
Amp (for sub): MTX Audio Thunder TA3401
Sub: MTX Audio Thunder T5510 10"

Word of advise,
If your gonna run the MOMO's I'd recommend you get at least a 1000W RMS amp to power them.

[240nut]

Ive got a Kenwood Headunit Infinity 4 channel amp, Infinity Kappa in the front doors and Polk audios in the rear deck. Also have a single 12" Infinity Reference sub in trunk. Set up is ok but i need to fine tune some crap to make it perfect but blahh whatever no time.

[xdumbxguyx]

boston acoustics z6 comps
edesign nine.2x amp
alpine cda 9835

[wh0aitznic0]

Alpine headunit with IPOD interface (BANGIN)
4x6 Kenwood front speakers
6x9 Pioneer rear speakers
Rockford Fosgate 8' sub with sealed box (I think it's an 8...might be a 10 idk it just looks tiny)
Lightning Audio 4 channel amp for the mids and highs hooked up to all 4 speakers
Kenwood 2 channel amp for the lows on the sub

Total cost for me: ~$250 (I <3 hookups)

[mademedoit]

If you got five dollars and a whole day to fuck off you can create some mounts to put 6/9's in you ride. Also what do you guys think of my efective use of the dc stb ha ha .http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s108/cmanweak123/Picture3025.jpghttp://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s108/cmanweak123/Picture3021.jpghttp://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s108/cmanweak123/Picture3022.jpg

[SimpleSexy180]

i run pioneer front 6 1/2 (custom plates i made) and Pionner 6x9 in the rear in boxes.

i was def thinking of putting 6x9 there.

hmmm, i have some spare time tonight... what material did you use for those rear 6x9? i used acrylic for my fronts..

[mademedoit]

i run pioneer front 6 1/2 (custom plates i made) and Pionner 6x9 in the rear in boxes.

i was def thinking of putting 6x9 there.

hmmm, i have some spare time tonight... what material did you use for those rear 6x9? i used acrylic for my fronts..
I just went to Lowe's and bought a 3' by 3' sheet of 1/4" mdf. For the fronts I bought the plastic 6 1/2 adaptors they sell on ebay. :D I was going to put the plastic panels back but since I also put in some manual seatbelts I can't put them back with out hacking them to pieces.:rant:

[krisdeezy]

i have stock front speakers pioneer rear speakers, memphis audio 12" sub with a rockford punch amp...and a kenwood head unit ! :)

[theronin]

+rep for jordans awesome post

i got an alpine cda9886
infinitys in the doors. previous owner never got around to installing them, so he gave em to me when i bought her! they were still sealed in the box lol
none in back.
wanna get 6x9's but dont wanna cut my baby :(

[mademedoit]

+rep for jordans awesome post

i got an alpine cda9886
infinitys in the doors. previous owner never got around to installing them, so he gave em to me when i bought her! they were still sealed in the box lol
none in back.
wanna get 6x9's but dont wanna cut my baby :(
WHAT... you don't have to cut your car:tweak: , I was talking about the plastic side panel behind the door panel. I was planing on drilling some holes in it or ataching a speaker grill so the sound can go thrugh, but since the manual seat belts are in the way (see 1st pic) I can't. How about a plus rep for me you fucks I have none!:fawkd: Oh yea my set up is a jvc 830 deck(the one with usb input:w00t: ) jvc two way 6 1/2's in front, sony 4 way 6x9's, and two 10' kenwood subs with kenwood amp.

[wh0aitznic0]

Lol I don't think calling the community "fucks" is a good way to get posi rep. I'll help you out though.

+rep for your creativity in putting those 6x9. I cut the rear deck thing to put my 6x9's.

[goldee240]

9886 hu pioneer db front kar toys in the back 2 kicker crv kenwood amp
=]

[GSXRJJordan]

+rep for jordans awesome post

Thanks :) Glad to see this thread still lives.

[Future240]

http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v260/149/58/1123950048/s1123950048_30015216_7568.jpg

My deck

http://i312.photobucket.com/albums/ll343/cwrigh25/s1123950048_30015217_9238-1.jpgmy subs with lame ass associate removed from pic

[dnbwithweed]

stock speakers
Jbl Gto series 3 way speakers
JL w7 12" sub in a rockfordfosgate ported box
750 kicker zx750 amp
Pioneer mp3/cd/wma head unit

[handinpants]

I have alpine Type X 5.25 component speakers in the front, and infinity kappa 6x4 in the rear, with an alpine 4 channel amp powering them, as well as an insigna (best buy) amp which powers 1 JL 10w3 sub, in a sealed truck box. I highly recommend you spend the dough and get alpine type X because it is their top line component speaker, and sounds way better than any other speaker, especially the mid range woofer... but buy them online say etronics.com because al and eds will rip you off. but have a pro audio shop install them, oh and get the dynamat in the doors with them, i did.

[MrChow]

May as well post what i have.

Head Unit: Clarion DXZ585USB
Speaker setup:
Fronts: Boston Acoustics 6-1/2" 2-way (I don't remember the model #) Infinity tweeters and crossovers
Rears: Pioneer Premier TSA642 6-1/2" 4-Way
Amp: Alpine 4-channel amp (friend gave it to me)

Sub: Kenwood KSC-SW10 self powered subwoofer

I'm upgrade my sub within the next 2 months. Thinking about kickers or something along those lines. Just trying to find some that isn't super heavy.

[rice_bowl]

6.5" MB Quarts coaxial up front
6.5" Sony Xplod in the back i think
Alpine HU
Nothing too special. Needs a good amp and sub to go boom-boom.

[jamben]

kicker cvrs lol

[GSXRJJordan]

Glad to see this thread is still alive.

I have alpine Type X 5.25 component speakers in the front, and infinity kappa 6x4 in the rear, with an alpine 4 channel amp powering them, as well as an insigna (best buy) amp which powers 1 JL 10w3 sub, in a sealed truck box. I highly recommend you spend the dough and get alpine type X because it is their top line component speaker, and sounds way better than any other speaker, especially the mid range woofer... but buy them online say etronics.com because al and eds will rip you off. but have a pro audio shop install them, oh and get the dynamat in the doors with them, i did.

Hahahaha. :bowrofl: HAHAHAHAHA. First of all, easy with the superlatives... "Better than any other speaker"? Negative. Better than stock? Sure.

And 5 1/4" components are the bastard children of the speaker world, like 4x6's. No one with any budget/taste runs them - they just don't play low enough, unless you also run an 8" mid (which sounds awesome with a 12" woofer tuned low, or a 15"). But then you're running full active crossovers which is uber-complicated for even experienced people.

My new setup is finished, pics of the 3-d models and specs are in the fabrication thread, but I'll link a couple pics here too ~

Specs:
- Alpine something-or-other high end headunit
- TRU Technololgy T4.100 w/BB IC upgrade :D
- CDT HD-6 6.5" mids in .3ft^3 sealed door boxes
- CDT TW-26 1" Silk-dome tweeter
- CDT SatNet 560i crossover (this makes all the difference)
- Soundstream SS10R Reference 10" sub in a huge (1.5ft^3) ported box, tuned to ~37hz, with an F3 of around 44Hz.
- Misc sound deadening (mostly Dynamat Extreme), not finished with that part yet.

Doors:
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pTq-SlgAD-ZVpqTM_G9hHG9i-PpxwW0P-SsvR8F6U_cI673hat8oavTcf_Z0SDsNVv90NVL-BpsA/IMG_0086?download

Trunk:
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p3d6YEyz6P8ZD9Q_auOGduytTX-elVqr-ZY2xzgoPMS375Rc1Qw1PDbk2SEcRnb7wEUoF4SHTijI/IMG_0090?download

Might update the thread when I get pics of finished install (door panels on, trunk cleaned up - box is bolted in but everything else is just thrown in, etc) - also I'll grab a pic of the head unit and ipod dock.

[MrChow]

^^ I can't wait to see when you finish.


Hey can anyone say anything about Bazooka and or Blaupunkt GTt-1200 (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_023GT1200T/Blaupunkt-GTt-1200.html?tp=112) subs?? I'm trying to upgrade my small sub thingy to come with a bit more power but not add huge weight.

[GSXRJJordan]

^^ I can't wait to see when you finish.


Hey can anyone say anything about Bazooka and or Blaupunkt GTt-1200 (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_023GT1200T/Blaupunkt-GTt-1200.html?tp=112) subs?? I'm trying to upgrade my small sub thingy to come with a bit more power but not add huge weight.

I've tuned a setup with two Bazooka 8's and they didn't play that low (8's WILL play low if you put them in the right box), but sounded clean, and were not that heavy. They hit pretty well, but if you're throwing in two of them, you might as well use a single 10 and a 4 or 5 channel amp (depending on if you run rears or not, I don't).

My entire trunk setup (subwoofer, box, and the only amp) weighs less than 50lbs - making the box out of 1/2" birch and treating it with fiberglass resin makes a box that's just as strong as 3/4" MDF at half the weight! And that's a 2ft box!

If anyone wants me to make them custom sub boxes, tell me what kind of sub you want/have and I'll look up the specs, design the box and 3/d model it to see where you want it to go... like this:
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pYHD7wYtSbTc2J-szTVKC6TwM80zoT22EIv8joNhBiI183MoQFKq4EJHgpzG0_yi2 hBi4o-Wacu4/ss10%20bassbox%20response?download
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p9RDEcBegrmIfecSR8r8GGkY73BsfgT-PAI73_QvZw0A4DWRAdwSf3SIfDqrR_I27RsbgArIWulo/S14%20Trunk%20Sub%20Box?downloadhttp://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pXuqmiDTrw9Dxif7znXiuU2D8QEqCiSCRTdcDOdNoIQf5oxV nKp8zcWxE757POW1DyCcfQI-CCWU/S14%20Trunk%20Sub%20Box%20-%20port?download

[whatda]

i have in the front are pioneer 6x4 and 4in in the rear with a hifonics 12 and a 1200 watt amp

[LA_phantom_240]

I just downsized a bit, now I'm only running a Kicker KX850.4 running 6.5" Alpine Type-R components up front, and Pioneer Rev series (Yellow Kevlar cone model) 6.5"s in the rear. No sub anymore, it got sold. HU is a Pioneer Premier DEH-680MP.

[C. Senor]

man. every time i see this thread, it makes me miss my system. i used to have a decent set-up. if i remember i had 2-12" cerwin-vega strokers 1400rms, running i forget what series phoenix gold components, which were the 2 door speakers and 2 rear speakers, 4 bose tweeters located on the trim that runs along side the headliner. a rockford fosgate 850.2 for the subs and a jl 400.4 for the speakers. each component speaker had an equalizer for it, had a crossover, ran a battery isolater to an oddyssey battery, a digital 2 farad capacitor, and some pioneer head unit. subs, amps, crossovers, battery, capacitor, and fans installed for amps were enclosed in a full custom box made by usign the trunk itself. dynomat, resin, more resin, and nice inch thick wood were used to make the box. i think my best was almost 130 decibals. it was pretty neat. i'll note that i did none of the work, was taken to a local shop. but, just far too much weight for a 240, and to be honest i was more into systems back then. just posting up, so you guys can know if for some reason you want to, that you can put a pretty big set-up in a 240.

[Pho Man]

I have a lower level Kenwood Excelon H/U with stock speakers up front and two Infinity Kappas with rotatable tweeters in the rear(6 1/2's). This is in my S13 coupe. Personally I think Kenwood has lost some of its luster compared to a few years ago. Going to eventually change the h/u out for something better, Do two sets of MB Quart 6 1/2 inch mids and 1" tweeters(cross overs of coarse) in the door or Run JL mids not to sure yet unless someone else has a better suggestion on mids. Get a 4 channel amp to the mids. Not sure which kind yet and be done with audio Maybe an 8inch woofer and 2 channel amp if I have time. Figured Since nobody is sitting in the back I would just move all speakers up front toward the driver. Love SQ all the way!

[MrChow]

I've tuned a setup with two Bazooka 8's and they didn't play that low (8's WILL play low if you put them in the right box), but sounded clean, and were not that heavy. They hit pretty well, but if you're throwing in two of them, you might as well use a single 10 and a 4 or 5 channel amp (depending on if you run rears or not, I don't).

My entire trunk setup (subwoofer, box, and the only amp) weighs less than 50lbs - making the box out of 1/2" birch and treating it with fiberglass resin makes a box that's just as strong as 3/4" MDF at half the weight! And that's a 2ft box!

If anyone wants me to make them custom sub boxes, tell me what kind of sub you want/have and I'll look up the specs, design the box and 3/d model it to see where you want it to go... like this:
I mean the enclosed one.

Here's what I'm researching for enclosed subs.
Crutchfield.com - Compare (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-05mByIfcSUg/cgi-bin/ProdComp.asp?g=510&s=0&cc=01&hidesimilar=&compareitems=023GT1200T&compareitems=204BT8DVC&compareitems=204BT1014&compareitems=204BT10DVC&compareitems=575P1L112&removeitems=575P1L112&compareitems=206TCVT102)
Then there's these for normal subs.
Crutchfield.com - Compare (http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/ProdComp.asp?g=520&s=0&c=3&cc=01&compareItems=575P1S410&compareItems=2067C104&compareItems=236T4510&compareItems=113W2511&compareItems=2067C10VR4)

I love to hear what you think. I listen to everything. Mainly Rock, Hip-hop and then techno and rave stuff (gf is a rave girl). So it's hard to hear everything I want thought the sub I have. This is the sub I have atm. Kenwood KSC-SW10 (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KSCSW10/Kenwood-KSC-SW10.html?tp=114).It's works for adding bass to the music. But doesn't give the "thump" we want.
My good bud has 2 12" kicker comp in his car and we love that how it hits. But I don't need to be that close.

Anyways what are your thoughts about that? I would love you to model a box for me if I when that route. Thanks.

[GSXRJJordan]

I mean the enclosed one.

Here's what I'm researching for enclosed subs.
Crutchfield.com - Compare (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-05mByIfcSUg/cgi-bin/ProdComp.asp?g=510&s=0&cc=01&hidesimilar=&compareitems=023GT1200T&compareitems=204BT8DVC&compareitems=204BT1014&compareitems=204BT10DVC&compareitems=575P1L112&removeitems=575P1L112&compareitems=206TCVT102)
Then there's these for normal subs.
Crutchfield.com - Compare (http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/ProdComp.asp?g=520&s=0&c=3&cc=01&compareItems=575P1S410&compareItems=2067C104&compareItems=236T4510&compareItems=113W2511&compareItems=2067C10VR4)

Anyways what are your thoughts about that? I would love you to model a box for me if I when that route. Thanks.

I know, I was talking about the enclosed 8 :) With how amazingly cheap used car audio stuff is, I don't see a reason to go with those, besides installation convenience. Are you running a stock head unit? 'Cause going to a pre-amp line-level output from a high-level speaker output makes a big difference in clarity also.

I build all my systems for SQ - that's why I'm running a lightweight, paper cone, reference-quality woofer instead of a 100lb boomer that takes a million watts to run.

If you want to PM me your current system, what your budget is, and how you want it to look, I can see what I can come up with.

That stands for anybody, but don't come at me with the typical Zilvia "I have no stereo and a $54 budget and want what you have" stuff.

[Leetheslacker]

im car audio retarded but.

i want to run two good 6.5s up front and maybe a 10 in the back. can i just use a 4channel two run the front two and then bridge the 2 leftover channels for the 10?

not going for boom just like a little oomph to my music.

[boost_addict]

Glad to see this thread is still alive.



Hahahaha. :bowrofl: HAHAHAHAHA. First of all, easy with the superlatives... "Better than any other speaker"? Negative. Better than stock? Sure.

And 5 1/4" components are the bastard children of the speaker world, like 4x6's. No one with any budget/taste runs them - they just don't play low enough, unless you also run an 8" mid (which sounds awesome with a 12" woofer tuned low, or a 15"). But then you're running full active crossovers which is uber-complicated for even experienced people.

My new setup is finished, pics of the 3-d models and specs are in the fabrication thread, but I'll link a couple pics here too ~

Specs:
- Alpine something-or-other high end headunit
- TRU Technololgy T4.100 w/BB IC upgrade :D
- CDT HD-6 6.5" mids in .3ft^3 sealed door boxes
- CDT TW-26 1" Silk-dome tweeter
- CDT SatNet 560i crossover (this makes all the difference)
- Soundstream SS10R Reference 10" sub in a huge (1.5ft^3) ported box, tuned to ~37hz, with an F3 of around 44Hz.
- Misc sound deadening (mostly Dynamat Extreme), not finished with that part yet.

Doors:
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pTq-SlgAD-ZVpqTM_G9hHG9i-PpxwW0P-SsvR8F6U_cI673hat8oavTcf_Z0SDsNVv90NVL-BpsA/IMG_0086?download

Trunk:
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p3d6YEyz6P8ZD9Q_auOGduytTX-elVqr-ZY2xzgoPMS375Rc1Qw1PDbk2SEcRnb7wEUoF4SHTijI/IMG_0090?download

Might update the thread when I get pics of finished install (door panels on, trunk cleaned up - box is bolted in but everything else is just thrown in, etc) - also I'll grab a pic of the head unit and ipod dock.

how does the door panel fit LOL!

[g6civcx]

Hey OP, I have a set of Sony Xplode 6.5" with waterproof foam baffle, ebay adaptors, and no splice plug-and-play harnesses. Front speakers only. No rear. My headunit is a Dual XDM6820.

I'm getting rid of this setup though because I'm putting in fibreglass doors.

GSXRJJORDAN, can you recommend a good pair of 6x9 pickup truck speaker boxes? I just want to listen to traffic while I drive. Thanks.

[devonkyle77]

i realized with my first s chassis that car audio and 240s dont match well. s14a has a wopping 4 speakers, in that bitch oversize 6.5 setup..so lame. lol
fronts are memphis audio 3 way, rears are infinity 2way. its good enough.

[SC_S13]

alright, help me out GSXRJJordan.

I picked up a pretty complete system off a friend for pretty cheap:
Infinity Reference Series 652i, 6-1/2 2-way up front
Infinity Reference Series 452i, 4 inch 2-way tweeters
Infinity Reference Series 6953i, 6x9 3-way rears
Concord C2050 2/1 channel 100x2 watt amp
Rockford Fosgate Punch 600.4 75x4 watt amp
MTX Thunder 4000 12'' sub, 400 watts

I know hardly anything about sound, is this setup good to go? I need a good headunit too, can you recommend me one? I only want to spend 200 something max on the headunit with ipod hookup.

[GSXRJJordan]

GSXRJJORDAN, can you recommend a good pair of 6x9 pickup truck speaker boxes? I just want to listen to traffic while I drive. Thanks.

Honestly, I can't. If it were me, I'd get a 6.5" MDF cutout (6x9 is such a horrible speaker) and mount it on the door, and get a set of used components to put in there. If you must go 6x9, anything will do.

i realized with my first s chassis that car audio and 240s dont match well. s14a has a wopping 4 speakers, in that bitch oversize 6.5 setup..so lame. lol
fronts are memphis audio 3 way, rears are infinity 2way. its good enough.

Lol the reason 240's don't make good sound has nothing to do with how many speakers they come with, and everything to do with it's lack of sound deadening and thin metal panels. I've got a serious challenge to get quality audio out of this car - I've got it at this point, as long as you're not driving... once you hit the road, the suspension/road noise takes over.

alright, help me out GSXRJJordan.

Responded to your PM. For anyone in a similar spot, that setup is two steps above garbage - if you ever wanted *good* sound, you'd throw every single piece in the trash.

how does the door panel fit LOL!

Here's a pic from the top, with the door closed:
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pnnRos7QFZtz8mcrt-itFbQA0cdF3MR9FvfEwg17WLfP5FNi9Ws2Qf8fEbAobU7PQKgT FiXI4Vug/IMG_0088?download

The door box barely touches the side bolster of the passenger seat (which is actually an Integra type-R seat, on custom rails and a Wedge bracket). The door panel will be cut around the box, once it's covered in vinyl (so it matches the door panel) - I'll lose the little map pockets in the doors, and the factory speaker grill, but not much else.

[yokotas13]

anbyoe got ideas on 150 ish 6.5s for hte front of my subaru

i was using kenwood excellons but i cant find em anymore

[94cc0rd]

I'm also looking for recommendations for some affordable 6.5s that i can put in the back of my car.

currently i have
Alpine CDA-9855 head unit
Infinity Kappa 6.5 component set
2 blown 6.5s in the rear
cheapo DHD 4 ch amp running the speakers
2 12" pioneer subs
kicker kx850.2 for subs

I'm actually considering ditching my woofer setup in the trunk because of the lack of space with it in the trunk, but the only way I would do that is if I could find some 6.5"s that could give me decent enough midbass.

gsxrjjordan: do you know if 8" woofers can be mounted on the rear shelf of an S14?

Would that even work? If I did do that, I would probably upgrade my 4ch amp to a better one with more power.

[GSXRJJordan]

anbyoe got ideas on 150 ish 6.5s for hte front of my subaru

i was using kenwood excellons but i cant find em anymore

"150 ish" = ~$150?

If you don't have a tweeter location available (and/or just dont want to run components), you can always get a coaxial or braxial 2-way... I'm a big fan of these (http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3066):
http://www.woofersetc.com/images/products/3066.jpg

They go for about $100, and will take >50w RMS all day. No real crossover though... for that you'd have to spend a little bit more. What amp are you running? If it's just a head unit, stick to the CL-6EX listed above.

I'm also looking for recommendations for some affordable 6.5s that i can put in the back of my car.
...
gsxrjjordan: do you know if 8" woofers can be mounted on the rear shelf of an S14?

You asked very contradictory questions lol. If you want to keep your subs, throw you Kappas in the back (they're great rear fill speakers, because they're too bright/tinney and will play really loud) and get some real components in the front, and a good 4ch amp.

If you want to do something cool, you can definitely mount two 8's (I've used CDT EF-8's, and have a pair somewhere in my garage I think) in the rear deck without a box, as long as you make sure you're not overpowering them. Check out the CDT EF-80 (http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=4571) - retail is $90 each, and they'll take 100w easily (200w max in infinite baffle I'd say), so you could bridge the rear channels of a 50wx4 amp and wire them as a 2ohm load for ~200w. Then you could ditch your subs and that Kicker amp. You'll want to damp the rear deck, or possibly put a 1/2" sheet of wood down in between some damping material, and mount the subs to that. But yeah, it's been done, and yeah, it sounds really good when done right.

You'd still want a set of tweeters back there for the fill probably though, so you're looking at another $100 at least for crossovers and tweets if you wanna go that route.

Getting tight, low bass out of 6.5" speakers is one of the holy grails of car audio, and the only way to do it right is good drivers in a sealed enclosure with a lot of power. To do it in the rear deck without a sealed box will need an 8" woofer (so you lose those mid-highs) and some control (to not blow the woofers, since theres no box, and to keep everything from shaking), but is a great alternative to my setup.

[silviaguy240]

i know that this is gonna sound wack, seeing with what money i have after christmas, im going to be getting a 10" W7 for my truck. but im not trying to spend to much on the amp. was looking around abit and im not sure whos reputable in amps but i found the Alpine MRP-M500, MA Audio M1900XE, Orion Cobalt CO800.1, Polk/MOMO C500.1. they're all 500watts and $200, thats around what im looking to spend. i will be building a box and my truck is already wired. so those who know anything help out?

[silly_13]

Kenwood headunit with USB connector
2 Blown Sony explode in the rear with black tape on the plastic thing lol
2 10" Rockford Puch Subs
Rockford Punch 4 channel amps
Rockford Punch 1/2 Farad Capacitor
est. total was around 1400 all from bestbuy....

[cxlo8331]

If anyone wants me to make them custom sub boxes, tell me what kind of sub you want/have and I'll look up the specs, design the box and 3/d model it to see where you want it to go... like this:

pm sent.
let me know what you can do.

[GSXRJJordan]

i know that this is gonna sound wack, seeing with what money i have after christmas, im going to be getting a 10" W7 for my truck. but im not trying to spend to much on the amp. was looking around abit and im not sure whos reputable in amps but i found the Alpine MRP-M500, MA Audio M1900XE, Orion Cobalt CO800.1, Polk/MOMO C500.1. they're all 500watts and $200, thats around what im looking to spend. i will be building a box and my truck is already wired. so those who know anything help out?

DO NOT cheap out on an amp for a W7. They are hugely inefficient, and take tons of power to make good sound - that's how all the "supersubs" are. Lots of people give single W7's 1000w.

Look on CarAudioForums for a used amp that's somewhere around 800w - that way, you won't kill your amp trying to drive your 70lb 10" sub, and will spend less cash.

Kenwood headunit with USB connector
2 Blown Sony explode in the rear with black tape on the plastic thing lol
2 10" Rockford Puch Subs
Rockford Punch 4 channel amps
Rockford Punch 1/2 Farad Capacitor
est. total was around 1400 all from bestbuy....

DO NOT buy a system from Best Buy, especially if you're going to spend that kind of cash. You're in LA, you should come listen to my system and see what you think, I can definitely build you something better for less money.

pm sent.
let me know what you can do.

Don't have a PM yet... :wavey:

[turtl631]

If you want to do something cool, you can definitely mount two 8's (I've used CDT EF-8's, and have a pair somewhere in my garage I think) in the rear deck without a box, as long as you make sure you're not overpowering them. Check out the CDT EF-80 (http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=4571) - retail is $90 each, and they'll take 100w easily (200w max in infinite baffle I'd say), so you could bridge the rear channels of a 50wx4 amp and wire them as a 2ohm load for ~200w. Then you could ditch your subs and that Kicker amp. You'll want to damp the rear deck, or possibly put a 1/2" sheet of wood down in between some damping material, and mount the subs to that. But yeah, it's been done, and yeah, it sounds really good when done right.

You'd still want a set of tweeters back there for the fill probably though, so you're looking at another $100 at least for crossovers and tweets if you wanna go that route.

Getting tight, low bass out of 6.5" speakers is one of the holy grails of car audio, and the only way to do it right is good drivers in a sealed enclosure with a lot of power. To do it in the rear deck without a sealed box will need an 8" woofer (so you lose those mid-highs) and some control (to not blow the woofers, since theres no box, and to keep everything from shaking), but is a great alternative to my setup.

I really wanted to do a pair of 10 or 12 inch subs IB in the rear deck when I had my first S14, but it looked like a lot of fabbing to get them to fit and look clean. Single sealed 10 in a medium sized fiberglass trunk enclosure was good enough, anyways.

Tru w/ Burr Browns, eh? I was never really a person to go for baller amps, but they sure are pretty. I'd rather spend the money on better drivers though...or home audio.

[cxlo8331]

you got mail now.

[huffandpuff00]

http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr216/zacharyhuffman/DSC_01371.jpg
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr216/zacharyhuffman/DSC_01361.jpg
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr216/zacharyhuffman/DSC_01391.jpg
old deck setup
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr216/zacharyhuffman/Photo-0028e.jpg
Summertime Sub
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr216/zacharyhuffman/DSC_01411.jpg

[redline racer510]

alpine head unit with infinity 4X6 all around with a 500w alpine amp powering a alpine 10" type s sub in a sealed box

[yokotas13]

"150 ish" = ~$150?

If you don't have a tweeter location available (and/or just dont want to run components), you can always get a coaxial or braxial 2-way... I'm a big fan of these (http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3066):
http://www.woofersetc.com/images/products/3066.jpg

They go for about $100, and will take >50w RMS all day. No real crossover though... for that you'd have to spend a little bit more. What amp are you running? If it's just a head unit, stick to the CL-6EX listed above.


havent decided on an amp
prolly a kenwood 5/4/2 or waever it is
i need tweeters for sure, i have to have them. i love my trbel

[g6civcx]

GSXRJJORDAN, I'm not putting speakers in the fibreglass doors. I just want something clear enough to listen to the traffic. Something like a pick up truck speaker box.

What do you recommend?

[silviaguy240]

DO NOT cheap out on an amp for a W7. They are hugely inefficient, and take tons of power to make good sound - that's how all the "supersubs" are. Lots of people give single W7's 1000w.

Look on CarAudioForums for a used amp that's somewhere around 800w - that way, you won't kill your amp trying to drive your 70lb 10" sub, and will spend less cash.


any "preference " on a brand? acutally found some 800watt amps on ebay for around what im looking to spend. i just dont want anything bunk. or should i look for a 1000 watt amp and run it at 800 so i dont max it out.

[silly_13]

DO NOT buy a system from Best Buy, especially if you're going to spend that kind of cash. You're in LA, you should come listen to my system and see what you think, I can definitely build you something better for less money.

yea i know dude my dad put the system before he gave me the car....i know they rape u with the installation price and all that bs......im sure ur stuff is good when i get another car i'll get my system from u most def........ just with the diagrams that u posted looks good for sure dude

[95se]

Front: MB Quart RSC 216's
Rear: MB Quart DKD 116's
Sub: 8in Kicker Solo Baric L5

[GSXRJJordan]

Front: MB Quart RSC 216's
Rear: MB Quart DKD 116's
Sub: 8in Kicker Solo Baric L5

What amp/processing? I've never heard the square 8", I bet with some clean power in a good box it'd sound pretty good.

[yokotas13]

so i put these in today
Kenwood Excelon KFCX1710P 6.5" High Performance 2-Way Component... (http://www.al-eds.com/Kenwood-KFCX1710P-p16971.html)
(not from there, out of my stagea) HOLY SHIT
i remember why i love music. everything is so clear...no distortion all the way up to max volume...now i need somethin gfor hte back, and an amp. and a louder headunit
my directed d700 is killing my sub though. it was bench tested 3 years ago at around 1000 at 1ohm. i have it at 2ohm on my JVC, and half gain, and its still too much power. Box is sealed with correct airspace lol

time to move up to a better sub

[GSXRJJordan]

so i put these in today
Kenwood Excelon KFCX1710P 6.5" High Performance 2-Way Component... (http://www.al-eds.com/Kenwood-KFCX1710P-p16971.html)
(not from there, out of my stagea) HOLY SHIT
i remember why i love music. everything is so clear...no distortion all the way up to max volume...now i need somethin gfor hte back, and an amp. and a louder headunit
my directed d700 is killing my sub though. it was bench tested 3 years ago at around 1000 at 1ohm. i have it at 2ohm on my JVC, and half gain, and its still too much power. Box is sealed with correct airspace lol

time to move up to a better sub

Ewww, they're 2ohm? And you're running that off a head unit? STOP! Head units are not meant to run 2ohm loads, you'll fry the amp inside the head unit, and possibly the entire thing.

The D700 is a super powerful amp, meant to run a whole network of subs at around 1ohm - if you're just running a single 2ohm sub, you probably should have the gain turned all the way down lol. Good thing about a sealed box is that you can hear it "clip"/"slap" when you're over the xmax of the sub. When you hear that, turn it down :)

[Future240]

I have a simple question. If I have a 1000 watt rms sub, and an amp that puts out 1300 watts rms, will the sub only pull as much as it needs, or will the amp send all 1300 watts into the sub and cook it?

[GSXRJJordan]

I have a simple question. If I have a 1000 watt rms sub, and an amp that puts out 1300 watts rms, will the sub only pull as much as it needs, or will the amp send all 1300 watts into the sub and cook it?

Let me start by saying that a sub's RMS rating is a guideline - depending on the enclosure, power handling (which is a rating of how much power a voice coil can convert to motion of the speaker, without frying itself, or pushing the coil out of the magnetic gap) is a curve, peaking around the tuning frequency of the box. The further you get from that, the less the speaker can handle.

So basically, you've got a good setup... you should just turn the gain down on the amp, so that when you play it loud, you don't hear it clip/hop - you'll hear bass getting louder and louder, until the speaker hops the magnetic gap, then you'll hear "clip"/"pop" etc and no bass, then bass again. If you hear that, turn it down.

[Rapier46]

subs are heavy and stupud haha. weight reduction ftw.

[yokotas13]

Ewww, they're 2ohm? And you're running that off a head unit? STOP! Head units are not meant to run 2ohm loads, you'll fry the amp inside the head unit, and possibly the entire thing.

The D700 is a super powerful amp, meant to run a whole network of subs at around 1ohm - if you're just running a single 2ohm sub, you probably should have the gain turned all the way down lol. Good thing about a sealed box is that you can hear it "clip"/"slap" when you're over the xmax of the sub. When you hear that, turn it down :)
yeah, i have the gain set so at full volume the sub wont distort and shit


im hoping to fry this fucking headunit. it sucks dick. then i can buy another pioneer and an amp
but on a real note, i ran these for a year in my stagea.....no problem off headunit




EDIT:
Directed 750D amp

[ayuaddict]

i am currently running:

alpine HU
kicker 750w single channel amp.
kicker 350w 4 channel amp.
pioneer (cheap) 10" sub in sealed box
alpine type R 6.5" woofers with infinity reference crossover and random tweeters. (front)
pioneer 6.5" coaxials plus random tweeters with filter (ghetto) (rear)

i am well aware that my shit is pretty wack, and i put it together comprised of shit i got for free.

it sounds okay to me, personally, but i am very curious as to what kind of real sound audio systems are capable of producing, i suppose first things first i need new speakers, i would like to run a matching set of components to run off the kicker 4 chan. What components would be recomended? also that brings us to the second problem, the kicker 350w 4 chan amp, are these things any good? i am well aware that usually speakers sound better when being run off a amp, but is this amp any good?

i think the sub itself probably sucks but how is the amp? are kicker amps any good?

any comments, critisism and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

in case this matters, this is in my '79 corolla.

[8Nismo9]

i dont have this but since the topic is car audio....what do you guys think of the JVC-50w x 4 mosfet cd/dvd deck with 3.5" widescreen-black?good for the price?what are your takes on this?

[ayuaddict]

gsxrjjordan!!

[GSXRJJordan]

gsxrjjordan!!

Lol, I was replying, but my browser crashed, then I forgot.

i am currently running:

alpine HU
kicker 750w single channel amp.
kicker 350w 4 channel amp.
pioneer (cheap) 10" sub in sealed box
alpine type R 6.5" woofers with infinity reference crossover and random tweeters. (front)
pioneer 6.5" coaxials plus random tweeters with filter (ghetto) (rear)

i am well aware that my shit is pretty wack, and i put it together comprised of shit i got for free.

it sounds okay to me, personally, but i am very curious as to what kind of real sound audio systems are capable of producing, i suppose first things first i need new speakers, i would like to run a matching set of components to run off the kicker 4 chan. What components would be recomended? also that brings us to the second problem, the kicker 350w 4 chan amp, are these things any good? i am well aware that usually speakers sound better when being run off a amp, but is this amp any good?

i think the sub itself probably sucks but how is the amp? are kicker amps any good?

any comments, critisism and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

in case this matters, this is in my '79 corolla.

The car matters! You could drop serious cash on a nice set of components and a $1k amp and still have it sound "average" because the car's not prepped - the first thing you should do is prep the doors and trunk, then get some good components. Dynamat Extreme works, but is expensive - for my car I'm going to try Cascade VMAX (about 50sq ft of it lol) because it comes very highly recommended.

I like CDT components, because I get very natural-sounding speakers that sound like top end components for about $300 (I can get you guys that deal too) - and they take a lot of power! There are lots of good components, but there are also a ton that sound "tinney" because they use metal tweeters - I prefer the silk-dome tweeters for their soothing presence/not overpowering sound.

As far as your sub, it's just low end fill! If it never sounds right, or just isn't loud enough, you could try getting another one - your amps are OK, but with after components you should definitely upgrade the 4ch amp.

i dont have this but since the topic is car audio....what do you guys think of the JVC-50w x 4 mosfet cd/dvd deck with 3.5" widescreen-black?good for the price?what are your takes on this?

Was there supposed to be a link in there? No head unit actually produces the current they claim, so if you want good sound, plan on buying an additional 4ch amp. If you want a head unit that looks cool, just make sure it has discreet front/rear/subwoofer high-volt (4v or higher) preamp outs that fits in your budget, so that you can upgrade later without replacing the head unit.

[8Nismo9]

Lol, I was replying, but my browser crashed, then I forgot.



The car matters! You could drop serious cash on a nice set of components and a $1k amp and still have it sound "average" because the car's not prepped - the first thing you should do is prep the doors and trunk, then get some good components. Dynamat Extreme works, but is expensive - for my car I'm going to try Cascade VMAX (about 50sq ft of it lol) because it comes very highly recommended.

I like CDT components, because I get very natural-sounding speakers that sound like top end components for about $300 (I can get you guys that deal too) - and they take a lot of power! There are lots of good components, but there are also a ton that sound "tinney" because they use metal tweeters - I prefer the silk-dome tweeters for their soothing presence/not overpowering sound.

As far as your sub, it's just low end fill! If it never sounds right, or just isn't loud enough, you could try getting another one - your amps are OK, but with after components you should definitely upgrade the 4ch amp.



Was there supposed to be a link in there? No head unit actually produces the current they claim, so if you want good sound, plan on buying an additional 4ch amp. If you want a head unit that looks cool, just make sure it has discreet front/rear/subwoofer high-volt (4v or higher) preamp outs that fits in your budget, so that you can upgrade later without replacing the head unit.

JVC - 50W x 4 MOSFET CD/DVD Deck with 3.5" Widescreen - Gloss Black - KDAVX44 (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8696609&type=product&id=1198888991266)

[GSXRJJordan]

JVC - 50W x 4 MOSFET CD/DVD Deck with 3.5" Widescreen - Gloss Black - KDAVX44 (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8696609&type=product&id=1198888991266)

Super expensive, but if you wanna ball, go for it. Just remember that it wont sound good without a a real amp and speakers.

[s13pignose]

Whats a good way to keep vibrations down on the rear deck of an s14. Just plan on running 6.5's...no subs, amp, etc. But I gotta keep bass down due to rattles.

Oh yeah when looking at speaker specs what is most important when it comes to clarity. I like highs, but pioneers I have now distort depending on the song at high levels..kinda static pop sounds

[yokotas13]

Super expensive, but if you wanna ball, go for it. Just remember that it wont sound good without a a real amp and speakers.
hehe i have that one in my leggy

[handinpants]

in the front i have Alpine Type X 5.25" component speakers (6.5s got in the way of the window). I have 2 infiniti kappas 4x6 in the rear, all four are powered by an alpine 4 channel amp. I also have a JL 10w3 in a truck box powered by an insigna (best buy) amp which has managed to blow one other sub...

[mechavore884]

Front: Pioneer D1720c's (6.5) components
Rear: Alpine Type-R 6.5 (33ow version)
4-Channel alpine PDX (class AB) for speakers
SUB: Atomix Quantum 12"
Mono alpine PDX 1.1 class D

[GSXRJJordan]

Whats a good way to keep vibrations down on the rear deck of an s14. Just plan on running 6.5's...no subs, amp, etc. But I gotta keep bass down due to rattles.

Oh yeah when looking at speaker specs what is most important when it comes to clarity. I like highs, but pioneers I have now distort depending on the song at high levels..kinda static pop sounds

Rattles are easily taken care of with dynamat (or similar) - most people put it on the underside of the rear deck, but I like to run it over the top so it shows from outside lol. Also, make sure you do the inner and outer door skins, and the inside of the rear quarterpanel - makes a huge difference!

As far as "specs" for good sound, they don't exist. I can look at T/s parameters and know how a speaker "reacts", but can't know how it sounds until you plug it in to some clean power and listen for a bit.

If you're shopping for components, go listen to some at your local car audio shop - get a feel for what "sound" you like (tight bass, sparkling highs, more natural highs, etc) and see what they've got that's in your price range.

hehe i have that one in my leggy

Balllllinnnnnnnnnnnnnn ~

in the front i have Alpine Type X 5.25" component speakers (6.5s got in the way of the window). I have 2 infiniti kappas 4x6 in the rear, all four are powered by an alpine 4 channel amp. I also have a JL 10w3 in a truck box powered by an insigna (best buy) amp which has managed to blow one other sub...

To get 6.5"s to fit, you have to space them out using rings. Easy peasy.

[s13pignose]

Thanks for the advice

[8Nismo9]

Super expensive, but if you wanna ball, go for it. Just remember that it wont sound good without a a real amp and speakers.

i do plan on geting it.What would you recommend to go with it then?

[yokotas13]

ill sell you mine if you want it.
i just want a normal pioneer. no need for a screen here

[94cc0rd]

hey gsxrjordan. i have 2 12" pioneer subs like i mentioned and a kicker kx850.2 amp.

i want to downgrade to 1 12" but don't really want to spend too much money.

1. can you build me a box for 1 12? how much would you charge?

2. would my sub be able to handle the 850 watts from my kicker amp?
i'm pretty sure this is the exact model i have.
http://www.amazon.com/PIONEER-TS-W306DVC-12-Car-Subwoofer/dp/B0007GFC3M

also, i want to change my rear speakers since they are blown, again without spending too much money. what would you recommend for rear fill 6.5"s that don't cost too much.

i'm not going for super SQ or SPL sound here... i just want decent sounding music that can get decently loud (or loud enough to cover up my exhaust note)

One more thing...
i used to be way more into car audio before when i first put this system into my car so i'm kinda confused how I have my subs/amp wired.

It says the subs are DVC 4 ohm which would mean each sub can be 2 or 8 ohms (series/parallel). I'm almost certain that I have each sub wired in Parallel which would make it 2 ohms, then the 2 subs wired in series to make it a 4 ohm final. then i have the 2 channels on the amp bridged which would means it is putting out 850 x 1 watts @ 4ohms (bridged mode) sending each sub 425 watts. does that sound right?

now onto my first question, if i wanted to downgrade to 1 12" sub, it would be either 2 or 8ohms. i don't think the kicker amp i have can run at 8 ohms so it would be 2 ohms, but then again, i'm not sure the amp can run bridged at 2 ohms. how would i wire it? (if it's even possible)

[xKennie]

hey gsxrjordan. i have 2 12" pioneer subs like i mentioned and a kicker kx850.2 amp.

i want to downgrade to 1 12" but don't really want to spend too much money.

1. can you build me a box for 1 12? how much would you charge?

2. would my sub be able to handle the 850 watts from my kicker amp?
i'm pretty sure this is the exact model i have.
Amazon.com: PIONEER TS-W306DVC 12" Car Subwoofer: Electronics (http://www.amazon.com/PIONEER-TS-W306DVC-12-Car-Subwoofer/dp/B0007GFC3M)

also, i want to change my rear speakers since they are blown, again without spending too much money. what would you recommend for rear fill 6.5"s that don't cost too much.

i'm not going for super SQ or SPL sound here... i just want decent sounding music that can get decently loud (or loud enough to cover up my exhaust note)

One more thing...
i used to be way more into car audio before when i first put this system into my car so i'm kinda confused how I have my subs/amp wired.

It says the subs are DVC 4 ohm which would mean each sub can be 2 or 8 ohms (series/parallel). I'm almost certain that I have each sub wired in Parallel which would make it 2 ohms, then the 2 subs wired in series to make it a 4 ohm final. then i have the 2 channels on the amp bridged which would means it is putting out 850 x 1 watts @ 4ohms (bridged mode) sending each sub 425 watts. does that sound right?

now onto my first question, if i wanted to downgrade to 1 12" sub, it would be either 2 or 8ohms. i don't think the kicker amp i have can run at 8 ohms so it would be 2 ohms, but then again, i'm not sure the amp can run bridged at 2 ohms. how would i wire it? (if it's even possible)

do u want a special kind of box made or would like to purchase a premade enclosure for the 12. also sealed, ported, or bandpass? i got a good connect out here in santa clarita pretty cheap dood. let me know. its where i bought all my shit

anways.

kk well imma list a couple of my recent setups.

Alpine 9887 unit
polk momo 6 1/2s
2 12" kicker cvrs
sealed enclosure
power acoustik 1920 watt mono block amp
1.0 farad cap

pioneer phd 4000d touchscreen (i believe that was the model)
Alpine type r 6 1/2's
10" jl w7
3.2 cubic foot ported box
jl audio 500/1
1.5 farad cap

Valor its- 703w flipout touchscreen
polk momo 6 1/2's
15" kicker L7
2 cubic foot ported box
hifonics bxi 1608 mono block amp
1.5 farad cap

and my current setup is

Kenwood kdc- mp638u
pioneer 4x7's
(ordered) 2 12" kenwood kfc- w3011
(ordered) 2 cubic foot bandpass box
(ordered) Kenwood kac- 8104 mono block amp

[94cc0rd]

well, if gsxrjordan can build me a small ported box for a good price, i would want to go that route, but i know that ported boxes usually cost quite a bit more. i guess if you can get me a ported box for 1 12" that isn't too big but still is a good fit for my sub (air space/port frequency and all that stuff), i would buy one from you but if gsxrjordan can build me one for the same price or a little bit more i would prefer a custom built one...

i think the biggest issue that i'm not sure on right now is if my amp can be used to power just one of my subs.

[GSXRJJordan]

well, if gsxrjordan can build me a small ported box for a good price, i would want to go that route, but i know that ported boxes usually cost quite a bit more. i guess if you can get me a ported box for 1 12" that isn't too big but still is a good fit for my sub (air space/port frequency and all that stuff), i would buy one from you but if gsxrjordan can build me one for the same price or a little bit more i would prefer a custom built one...

i think the biggest issue that i'm not sure on right now is if my amp can be used to power just one of my subs.

Lol amps can always handle higher impedance, it's the lower impedance they have a problem with (makes them run too hot). You'll be fine wiring that up as an 8ohm load, but you could also wire it up as a 4ohm load as well (your Kicker amp is actually a 2ch right, so you wire each voice coil to a separate channel). Either way, you'll be fine - it's OK to have too much amp for a sub, that's what your gain knob is for.

As far as a custom box, how custom do you want to go? Depending on what car you have, I might be able to take measurements from one of mine, but for a ported box I usually charge $100, including materials (which are somewhere around $40). Takes about 2 days, depending on what you want done.

PM me your car, where you want the sub/amps (maybe you want a floating amp rack or something too?), and what exact sub you have (and T/s parameters if you have them), and I'll shoot you over some ideas. I'll be taking measurements for Carlo's box and amp rack for his DD S14 this week, and hopefully making something for him next week :)

[94cc0rd]

cool, i'll PM you right now.

so if i wired each voice coil to each channel on my amp, what ohm load would that be and how much power would the single 12" be getting?

[GSXRJJordan]

cool, i'll PM you right now.

so if i wired each voice coil to each channel on my amp, what ohm load would that be and how much power would the single 12" be getting?

If your amp provides between 180w and 295w per channel @ 4ohms (depending on input voltage, Kicker rates their amps @ 12.5v and 14.4v for low and high ratings), so each voice coil would be getting that much RMS power... too much for most enclosures (remember, ported and bandbass have lower power handling than sealed). That's why you'd have to turn the gain down.

Or, you could wire them as an 8ohm load, and bridge both channels on the amp, and you'd get the same thing.

[Future240]

Its funny how post your audio setup has been turned into ask GSXRJJordan lol.

[xKennie]

well, if gsxrjordan can build me a small ported box for a good price, i would want to go that route, but i know that ported boxes usually cost quite a bit more. i guess if you can get me a ported box for 1 12" that isn't too big but still is a good fit for my sub (air space/port frequency and all that stuff), i would buy one from you but if gsxrjordan can build me one for the same price or a little bit more i would prefer a custom built one...

i think the biggest issue that i'm not sure on right now is if my amp can be used to power just one of my subs.


custom boxes are hella tight man, and if you prefer one i would go with the other dood. but if you would like just a simple ported enclose the smallest one available is 1.8 cubic feet, 14"h x 17"d x 19"w. 3/4 mdf woof of course.
price is 34.99 plus tax bro.

[GSXRJJordan]

Its funny how post your audio setup has been turned into ask GSXRJJordan lol.

Call it a gift :) The gift of total threadjacking.

custom boxes are hella tight man, and if you prefer one i would go with the other dood. but if you would like just a simple ported enclose the smallest one available is 1.8 cubic feet, 14"h x 17"d x 19"w. 3/4 mdf woof of course.
price is 34.99 plus tax bro.

That's huge for most modern 12" woofers - lots of the cheap woofers are designed to be run in 3/4ft^3 sealed, and ~1.25ft^3 ported boxes - and what port size (area, and depth)? Chances are, it's a big box with a mis-matched port, for SPL instead of SQ.

The box I was looking at for him would be about 1.6ft^3 total, tuned to 32hz with an F3 of 69Hz (pretty flat for 2 octaves each way). Have to keep vent size down, something like 2"x5"x16.5", or 3" round port x 11" (4" would have to be 20", which might be too long, plus that adds a lot of volume). I'd make it out of 1/2" birch and treat the inside with fiberglass resin, weighs 1/2 as much as 3/4" MDF.

Good price though :)

[xKennie]

what kinda sub is he even running? i never saw hahahhahaha

but yes the box is somewhat big for a 12 but it has been pretty good for the few subs that my friends have been using it for. most ppl buy it cus its cheap and the most common sub bought out here is teh kicker cvr comp. i actually just did a full setup in my friends 04 jeep with one 12" kicker and it wastn to shabby.
and yes i would prefer a custom build box over nething. then you can build it to the subs specs and all. actually thinking bout doing it for the 2 kenwoods i just ordered but not sure yet. my dad really wants to for his s13 tho. i think he wants to run two 12" rf t2's. i loved the RF 10" t1.

[boost]

I was wondering what style alpine 6.5" type R's everyone is fitting in the s13 front doors? is it the latest style with the really large tweeter enclosure spr-17c

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/3336/spr17ccz5.jpg

or the older styles with lower tweeters?

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/2203/spr17lpgi1.jpg

i just want something simple to fit behind the factory door grills. i don't really want to mount external tweeters.

[kingkilburn]

What kind of sub enclosure is suited best with what music? I'm confused as to what kind of sound the different styles produce.

[drift_jdm]

HU: JVC Single din dvd player - KDAVX11
Front speakers: Rockford Forsgate Power series 6.5 Coax.
Rear speakers: Alpine type S 4x6.

Setup prettymuch blows. I need to amp the speakers to get the most out of them, and plan to run a single kicker 8" solobaric mounted in the side panel of the car. If I were to really spend enough money on it, I would run a Alpine PDX 5 amp, that way i will have only one amp to power everything, and I'd reaplace the type s's with something better. (I'm not going all out really, i want a bit more bass/richer sound, but dont want to comprimise weight/space.)

[94cc0rd]

What kind of sub enclosure is suited best with what music? I'm confused as to what kind of sound the different styles produce.


the common misconception is that ported boxes are best to get loud boomy bass (hip hop type bass) and sealed boxes are for best sound quality but with the correct box built specifically for the subwoofer, any box can have great sound quality and get good and loud (depending on the woofer).

bandpass enclosures are the best and the worst. if you have a subwoofer/bandpass enclosure built around each other, they can sound the best (from what i've heard). if you throw in a regular woofer into a pre-made bandpass box, it will sound like crap.

I remember a guy back in the day when i used to visit clubrsx audio subforums, there was a guy on there who went by the "bass mechanic" who built his own woofer and bandpass enclosure. he had 2 8" woofers getting louder than 2 15"s. Has anyone heard of him? As far as I know, he's out of the business now.

[GSXRJJordan]

I was wondering what style alpine 6.5" type R's everyone is fitting in the s13 front doors? is it the latest style with the really large tweeter enclosure spr-17c

or the older styles with lower tweeters?

i just want something simple to fit behind the factory door grills. i don't really want to mount external tweeters.

The Type-R's are considered "alright" for retail crap - the thing about 6.5" in the S13 is that you'll have to run mounting rings to space them out, so you might as well position them to point to the opposite listener's head also ~ this helps even more when you're talking about coaxials like the 6.5" you posted. I believe the larger tweeter enclosure just lets you point it differently?

What kind of sub enclosure is suited best with what music? I'm confused as to what kind of sound the different styles produce.

94accord did a pretty good job explaining this ~ I explained the four types of mounts (infinite baffle, sealed, ported, then ported 6th order which is bandbass) earlier in the thread... The reason people like sealed boxes is because they're smaller, fairly idiot-proof to build, and below F3 (the frequency at which the speaker in that box is 3dB quieter than it's tuning frequency) they roll off at about 12dB/octave - this is cool because between 40hz and 50hz, most car cabins produce a 12dB/octave gain, so if you have a sealed box tuned around 40-50hz, the bass sounds pretty good.

The reason most people that know what they're doing like ported boxes is because you can tune the box for not only the speaker, but the car, and the type of response you want - ported boxes perform extremely well around their tuning frequency and about 3 octaves above, because both the speaker and the port are playing crisp bass notes. Below the tuning frequency, the speaker's power handling goes way down, so you have to be careful not to blow it.

For big SPL, tune around 40-45hz, for great SQ, tune closer to 30hz. Ported boxes will always be louder, and always be more efficient (above the tuning frequency) than sealed boxes - and as long as you follow some basic build guidelines, they sound just as good or better too!

Bandpass basically ports the back and front of the speaker, so you get more and more of the speaker's energy at a certain frequency converted to sound. They don't have the "snap" that sealed boxes have, and are huge (usually 2x-4x the size of a sealed box for the same woofer), which is why nobody interested in SQ builds them. They are the loudest though.

HU: JVC Single din dvd player - KDAVX11
Front speakers: Rockford Forsgate Power series 6.5 Coax.
Rear speakers: Alpine type S 4x6.

Setup prettymuch blows. I need to amp the speakers to get the most out of them, and plan to run a single kicker 8" solobaric mounted in the side panel of the car. If I were to really spend enough money on it, I would run a Alpine PDX 5 amp, that way i will have only one amp to power everything, and I'd reaplace the type s's with something better. (I'm not going all out really, i want a bit more bass/richer sound, but dont want to comprimise weight/space.)

First, do not put a speaker in the side panel. That's some of the thinnest metal in the entire car, and you want to shake it with bass? Rattle, rattle!! Also, speakers pointed sideways will usually get two short reflections before you hear the notes, so it will never sound crisp. Point it back or up, it'll sound better.

Secondly, I only want to run one amp, but most 5ch amps blow (and the 6ch version of my amp is like $2500) - my solution? Ditch the rear speakers. They don't make that much sound anyway. Then you run a sweet 4ch, and bridge the rears for your sub. Done, and done - cheaper, more efficient (less power/heat), more trunk space, and did I mention that it's cheaper?

[DreamN]

^ you seem to be giving out good advice. any advice on a speaker setup for me. currently running this setup:

Enter text here.- Pioneer Headunit DEH-690UB
- Infinity 6.5" Speakers REF6022SI (Front)
- Infinity 6"x9" Speakers REF9622I (Rear)

Don't want to change the headunit, but I'm definitely considering upgrading the speakers.

[enkei2k]

hey guys i recently got the following goodies? i guess you can call it, for christmas from my folks...

Sony Dual 12" Enclosed Ported Subwoofers - Model #: SON XSL120B5D (Buy the Sony Dual 12" Enclosed Ported Subwoofers and other Car subwoofers at circuitcity.com (http://www.circuitcity.com/rpsm/oid/176543/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do))
and
Sony ZR Series 2/1-Channel Amplifier - Model #: SON XMZR1252 (Buy the Sony ZR Series 2/1-Channel Amplifier and other Car amplifiers at circuitcity.com (http://www.circuitcity.com/rpsm/oid/208994/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do))

from CircuitCity and was just wondering if it's a bit much? a bit sucky? etc...I'm currently running a stock audio setup right now with the Clarions but I do have a Sony Xplod headunit (not sure which model) if that makes a difference. Would I need to upgrade my speakers also if I were to install all this stuff and get good quality? or can I just stick with my stock speakers? that damn woofer is insanely huge and might be a bit overkill for me but eh, I don't care much for weight reduction just as long as my ride can handle the extra 100 pounds of shit in the rear lol. thanks for any input guys

[GSXRJJordan]

^ you seem to be giving out good advice. any advice on a speaker setup for me. currently running this setup:

Enter text here.- Pioneer Headunit DEH-690UB
- Infinity 6.5" Speakers REF6022SI (Front)
- Infinity 6"x9" Speakers REF9622I (Rear)

Don't want to change the headunit, but I'm definitely considering upgrading the speakers.

Head unit's fine, you just need a 4ch amp to really figure out if you like how the Infinity's sound. The "reference" series is really their cheap-o speakers, Kappa Perfects are the good ones, but I would say just get a good quality ~50w x 4 amp (Arc Audio makes a KAR line that is a good value, TRU T4.65 would be the best, there's a ton of others) and some decent interconnects and it'll definitely make 'em sing.

Then you can decide if you like the metal tweeter sound or swap to some beefier components up front with a silk tweeter for a more natural sound. It's all preference, but it all starts with getting those speakers some decent power.

hey guys i recently got the following goodies? i guess you can call it, for christmas from my folks...

Sony Dual 12" Enclosed Ported Subwoofers
and
Sony ZR Series 2/1-Channel Amplifier

from CircuitCity and was just wondering if it's a bit much? a bit sucky? etc...I'm currently running a stock audio setup right now with the Clarions but I do have a Sony Xplod headunit (not sure which model) if that makes a difference. Would I need to upgrade my speakers also if I were to install all this stuff and get good quality? or can I just stick with my stock speakers? that damn woofer is insanely huge and might be a bit overkill for me but eh, I don't care much for weight reduction just as long as my ride can handle the extra 100 pounds of shit in the rear lol. thanks for any input guys

I'm not sure what you're expecting here... you were given audio parts for gifts... will they sound like ass hooked up to your crap head unit? Yes. Will they sound like ass hooked up to a good head unit, witha good 4ch amp powering good components? Yes. Crappy subs powered by a crappy sub amp will never sound clean, but they will bump, and I'm sure that's what you're looking for, so install them and be happy... and say thanks to whoever got them for you!

When you're ready to upgrade, look for some good components (I've listed a bunch in this thread), a good 4ch amp, and dampen the doors and trunk. That will take the attention off the crappy subs, and then way later you can upgrade those if you want.

[jeff13m]

Clarion 785 HU; Alpine 6.5 type X ref comps up front - tweet in the upper part of the door so i can hear. I'm old and only care about SQ since my ears are done from going loud in my younger days. I got two questions:
1. where are you guys mounting your amps? i don't have my Xtant 603 in now and plan on making something to stick in the trunk but would like to get some ideas.
2. i'm thinking of going subless and putting in some 6.5 "subs" like JL 6w0, CDTs, or TB W6-1139SI in the rear deck and run them "IB" as in no enclosure - instead of coax or something for rear fill. yeah, i know they're not real subs and don't go low like a true sub, but you guys know what i mean. opinions?
been here for over 4 yrs and this is my first post . . . what the hell . . .

[GSXRJJordan]

1. where are you guys mounting your amps? i don't have my Xtant 603 in now and plan on making something to stick in the trunk but would like to get some ideas.

On the sub box, or in a floating amp rack (1/2" square tubing is easy to cut/weld however you want, and it looks cool as balls).

2. i'm thinking of going subless and putting in some 6.5 "subs" like JL 6w0, CDTs, or TB W6-1139SI in the rear deck and run them "IB" as in no enclosure - instead of coax or something for rear fill. yeah, i know they're not real subs and don't go low like a true sub, but you guys know what i mean. opinions?
been here for over 4 yrs and this is my first post . . . what the hell . . .

A lot of people have been asking about this. It seems attractive, until you realize that the rear deck is not nearly sturdy/rigid enough to sound good - you'd be much better off using something like CDT EF-8's (small 8" subs) in a small box, bolted to the deck, and then damp the deck with something like dynamat. You'd still be better off just putting a regular sub in a regular box and putting it in the trunk, it just sounds better. 6.5" is too small for an IB setup (even my boxed/tuned CDT 6.5" don't extend down past 120hz with any volume).

[carps13guy]

i have pioneer 6.5" 3 ways in the rear tray (coupe), kicker 6.5" 2ways in the door powered by a 400 watt rockford fosgate amp, running it through a pioneer head unit. and yes i bought the ebay speaker brackets for the front, but you could get some plastic or wood and trace the old speaker plastics to make your own.

[DRO916]

In the Kouki:

Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD 7-Inch In-Dash Double-DIN
http://www.mytechwall.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/avh-p4100dvd.jpg

Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75-Inch Components (Fronts)
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41mcH6wkCIL._SS500_.jpg

Infinity Components, not sure model # (Rear)

JL Audio 8W7-3
http://www.carconceptsonline.com/shop/images/8W7.jpg

JL Audio 500/1
http://www.safeandsoundalarms.co.uk/images/500_1_L.jpg

[GSXRJJordan]

In the Kouki:

Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD 7-Inch In-Dash Double-DIN


Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75-Inch Components (Fronts)

Infinity Components, not sure model # (Rear)

JL Audio 8W7-3

JL Audio 500/1


Wow, bringin this thread back from the dead!

You run your components powered off the head unit? Gross. You'll enjoy much better quality sound from your front stage if you upgrade to a discrete amp instead of using the head unit's crappy amp.

[DRO916]

Wow, bringin this thread back from the dead!

You run your components powered off the head unit? Gross. You'll enjoy much better quality sound from your front stage if you upgrade to a discrete amp instead of using the head unit's crappy amp.

lol I know it could sound cleaner, but honestly, it sounds clean as fuck already...already spent too much on the tunes, more than I intended to at least....

[weshole]

Clarion VX709 dbl din Dvd source unit, Zapco Reference series 1000.4 amp, Zapco Reference series (blue) 6.5" components, Alpine 10" type R sub.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/VX709-US_01.jpg




http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/REF1000_4.jpg



http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/2_RB-162.jpg


http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/imagephp.png
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/swr1042d.jpg

[Bushido]

what do you guys think of this?

http://jalopnik.com/assets/resources/2008/02/jvc-kameleon-cd-player-headunit-speakers-2008.jpg
JVC KD-AVX44

[Wabash9000]

rockford fosgate 6.5 inch punch speakers
rockford fosgate 10 inch punch lvl 2 subwoofer
rockford fosgate 325.1 amp.

factory amps removed
new wires run from head unit to all speakers

[druthafoo]

OOOOO an audio thread, i love audio threads

here's my current jank.

Eclipse 55090
http://home.comcast.net/~havier123/pack3a.jpg

Crystal SSCS6
http://www.carstereopro.com/crystal/images/SSCS_6_small.jpg

severely underpowered by planet audio pa3002
http://www.pantipmarket.com/automobile/picture/A7183617-1.jpg

and Stereo Integrity Mag D2 in a 2cuft box tuned to 32 hz
http://www.audiojunkies.com/item_images/5.jpg

powered by my piss poor hifonics bx1205d amp, 1200 apparent RMS at 1 ohm
http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Hifonics_Brutus_BX1205D/outside1.jpg

all wired with knukonceptz wiring, 1/0 ga ftw!

Couple of my old setups....

RE SX 15 in a 3.5 cuft box tuned to 35, yes this fit in my fastback
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/289509/486193.jpg

first sub evar. adire shiva in a 1cuft sealed, I miss this one :(
http://ldsg.snippets.org/graphics/adire/ShivaFront.jpg

I'm mad that dude up here is running zapco everything then alpine piss r's :(.

If you guys need design help with subboxes, I can design as well. I can design for free and I can build as well.
lol I know it could sound cleaner, but honestly, it sounds clean as fuck already...already spent too much on the tunes, more than I intended to at least....
you spent too much bc you bought JL.. JL is good but too expensive.

[GSXRJJordan]

^^^ Haha, this guy is someone I could talk to about audio. JL expensive? Maybe. JL good? Nope.

Zapco's not what it used to be either though.

[druthafoo]

^come on now, JL is definitely overpriced for what it is, which is overpriced moderate equipment :D

You gotta admit W6's and W7's and their amps are AT LEAST good.

Zapco used to be godlike with equipment. Ugh, I fell out of the game though once I got satisfied with my current set up. I still need to deaden my doors and get better amps (I've wanted US Amps, I dont even know if they still exist). I also have this external eclipse eq 21010 that I've been delaying for almost 3 years to install. I should just sell it.

[BustedS13]

i'm seeing some Hifonics in this thread. you feeling you got what you paid for, maybe a little more?
i've never OWNED a Hifonics amp but i know a couple people who have gone through a few setups using them and they never had any real issues, save one that kept overheating. i think my next 240sx system is going to be built around a four channel Hifonics, would you recommend the brand?

[druthafoo]

Honestly, for what I paid for(125), the output is definitely not bad. Whether I'm seeing 1200 watts +- 150 or not, doesnt matter to me since I don't compete anymore and don't plan to. I've never overheated it or anything of that sort either. The only thing I dont like about it is that it uses a non common type of fuse. So if I blew it, I'd be hardpressed to find another unless I contact hifonics themselves. But then again, I shouldnt even be blowing amp fuses or I installed it like an idiot.

[GSXRJJordan]

^come on now, JL is definitely overpriced for what it is, which is overpriced moderate equipment :D

You gotta admit W6's and W7's and their amps are AT LEAST good.

Zapco used to be godlike with equipment. Ugh, I fell out of the game though once I got satisfied with my current set up. I still need to deaden my doors and get better amps (I've wanted US Amps, I dont even know if they still exist). I also have this external eclipse eq 21010 that I've been delaying for almost 3 years to install. I should just sell it.

W6's and W7's are inefficient. I'm an SQ+ guy, I want the most efficient sup possible. To save you browsing the older posts in this thread, I'm using:
*Alpine (decent) head unit
*Tru Technology 4.100 w/BB upgrade
*CDT custom components, basically HD6 woofers, Satnet 560i crossover, 1" silk dome tweets - in custom ~.25 ft^3 sealed door boxes (1/2" birch, resin-coated inside, damped by dynamat and bolted to the door frame)
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pb5YFRPFd86FXSjpzpSRUhhonces1PJMveqCgJVTEoGCRQQt MOS1EJo6GHbUQeNL5ykrucU04SVjAQGBTeR80hA/S14%20Pass%20Side%20Speaker%20Box?download
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1ph_xKxC1E4_fOoChc0PdAlwmWqK7kkYBDcPcWktEGkiYnL3X hjFeYcwenXOzwKJioqpCBZvCsbYrYGqcAlBUrFg/CDT%20CL-6%20.241%20cu%20ft%20response
http://iwmhjg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pqPukyjn8h768atVkIt5lpJtFQcUxCCjBSOA3qvSr_GEDi_F OpnkfkY4qk-k2ilKnhYelY1j5m8ovDi8Srl2TdQ/DSC05309
*Soundstream Reference SS10R in 1.5cu ft, tuned to 37hz I believe.
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pe8EM2DqWZbrZ5MUl_8OpECLs34NfcKGREXt7zV95GAOXU6b CIL47epOG5J9AN8E5UoWVLzH5D-8optzuyR779Q/ss10%20bassbox%20response?download
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pH54h5I_hB5UtzEUfaxAqtvgeVB0IMvyxyN5b22dudEgstUJ rbj428YVfmod0JXetE3bEkrufqB6mPESyseqCQQ/S14%20Trunk%20Sub%20Box?download
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pFVBlEeulUXCfuAsoVWgpVLKvBi4gicugB5q3H4iUVxo64Wn 2JZ2aA1OUgwJVR0NoOQjiH4OAgbHLldgp5vJ1_Q/S14%20Trunk%20Sub%20Box%20-%20port
http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pNxFbKB-6V9pmlSgrw4QK2DAjyNZlOCne-vBYKvdU9n8wSXSU-VcseQRoedprO6JPxoQdthHqIVxnDHQD8oNVyQ/IMG_0090
(only pic I have, this was before it was 'hard mounted')

i'm seeing some Hifonics in this thread. you feeling you got what you paid for, maybe a little more?
i've never OWNED a Hifonics amp but i know a couple people who have gone through a few setups using them and they never had any real issues, save one that kept overheating. i think my next 240sx system is going to be built around a four channel Hifonics, would you recommend the brand?

Definitely get more than your money's worth with old Hifonics stuff, but it's remarkable for it's value, not it's overall quality. If you had more money to spend, there are better options out there, but if you're on a budget, old Hifonics, US Amps, Zapco stuff can be found for CHEAPPPPP.

[druthafoo]

I used to run CDTs. I stil have them somewhere around here, they are the fiberglass midwoofers cdt 6efg I believe mated with crystal tweeters and xover. I had to replace the mids since both blew, I duno. you're crazy tho, sticking an enclosure into the door. I run my sscs6 free air.

I never got into fiberglassing but my plans used to consist of kickpods and or switching to ID horns. Sigh, if this thread reignites my audio love then my car is going to wait even longer for parts. Poo. Nice box up there tho, I like your port design. Mine is ported with a 4 inch precision port. I want to rebuild with a slot port next time tho.

Lol, another thing that killed my audio interest was that I switched to mac and lost all my windows based speaker building programs. haha.

[DRO916]

you spent too much bc you bought JL.. JL is good but too expensive.

$300 is expensive for a W7 and 500/1? Hardly.

[weshole]

Zapco's not what it used to be either though.

With E.S.B making their speakers, I love their components. The amps are still top notch imho. Very efficient and powerfull.

Zapco used to be godlike with equipment. (I've wanted US Amps, I dont even know if they still exist).
While there are quite a few good companies around nowadays, Zapco is still on the top of my list for quality AND customer service.
U.S Amps ARE still around. But I will say that they are not what they used to be speaking from first hand exp.

I'm mad that dude up here is running zapco everything then alpine piss r's :(.

It's all I had laying around as of right now and plan on a redesign over the winter. Making proper pods for the comps and a different enclosure/sub combo.

[druthafoo]

$300 is expensive for a W7 and 500/1? Hardly.
I assumed you paid a bit more than that. Not bad, but you're using a 500/1 for it?
With E.S.B making their speakers, I love their components. The amps are still top notch imho. Very efficient and powerfull.


While there are quite a few good companies around nowadays, Zapco is still on the top of my list for quality AND customer service.
U.S Amps ARE still around. But I will say that they are not what they used to be speaking from first hand exp.



It's all I had laying around as of right now and plan on a redesign over the winter. Making proper pods for the comps and a different enclosure/sub combo.
Ok, I was about to say. What are your plans for upgrades? Yeah, when I used to be all about audio, US Amps at the time were near top of the line. Hell I dont know what companies exist and dont exist nowadays.

***Proceeds to go into car audio forums I've never visited in several years***

[eddieflo]

http://smiliesftw.com/x/picsstfu.gif (http://smiliesftw.com)

[druthafoo]

^who the hell is this referring to.

[eddieflo]

^who the hell is this referring to.


everyone lol :bow:

[weshole]

Fine....
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/100_2086-1.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/100_2088-1.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/100_2079.jpg

[GSXRJJordan]

I've started a trend... where's your 3d enclosure modeling and speaker design graphs? LOL

Funny thing is, since a car is basically as far away from an ideal enclosure as possible (it's not rigid, sealed, suitably large, damped, etc), I had to tune out some funny spikes once I mounted everything and ran through my tuning process - even though the frequency response in the model is totally smooth. Doing the enclosures in the doors is the only way to get decent bass out of the doors of an old import... it's not like we're starting with Lexus or Porsche doors here.

I can play my 6.5" mids (albeit with tons of very clean power) all the way down to 120hz with no problems whatsoever.

[weshole]

It's all a compromise for me really. What do you want more, aesthetics or function? I try to do bring the most out of both without one aspect stepping all over the other. That's where starting with good equipment makes that job easier.

[druthafoo]

^nice weshole, ugh, if I did that, I'd probably kick in my speaker cone or one of my friends would a week within installment.

I have to keep my mid under the grille.

[GSXRJJordan]

You can see from this pic on the passenger side that your feet (and your passengers') are actually past the speaker.

http://wuukdg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pCcKPAZ2gKpToikwKem5OxNmXmfZLxBUMDVWakCFlocS2XSR P4iJQMwdLAWY_bwa6hp8rsyHidRLQ63C1dlxqDw/IMG_0088?download

Getting into and out of the car is the only time you have to watch out - especially because mine protrude from the door panel by about 3" on the bottom (they're angled back and up).

[druthafoo]

thats an s14 right? im pretty sure itll be the same as a s13 tho. how are you going to finish up that panel?

[GSXRJJordan]

thats an s14 right? im pretty sure itll be the same as a s13 tho. how are you going to finish up that panel?

Yup, S14. The S14 door panels have more room in them, that's what gave me the idea. I don't have any finished pics, since the door panels are currently off the car (redoing the engine bay, and since I'm redoing the gauges and wiring, I have the dash and interior out mostly). Basically I cut the stock door panel around the woofer box, and will cover the woofer box in similar vinyl to the door. You really don't notice it's there unless I point it out.

[weshole]

^nice weshole, ugh, if I did that, I'd probably kick in my speaker cone or one of my friends would a week within installment.

I have to keep my mid under the grille.


These are just "quickie" mounting pieces to get them in use for the season. They will be completely reworked over the winter.

[kingkilburn]

Here is my new woofer box. I don't have an amp yet(feel free to suggest one) so I don't know how it sounds.

The box is 3/4 mdf at 13x12x37. The vent is 3.5x3.5x14. The woofer is a Peerless XLS10.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v403/kingkilburn/subbox5aspx.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v403/kingkilburn/subbox4aspx.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v403/kingkilburn/subbox1aspx.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v403/kingkilburn/subbox3aspx.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v403/kingkilburn/subbox2aspx.jpg


And here is my uncle building the box.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v403/kingkilburn/subbox6aspx.jpg

[GSXRJJordan]

Square vents sound like ass without smoothing the corners ~ at least run some 45* strips of that MDF down the edges.

Also, you absoultely need at least one port diameter (in your case, 3.5" * sqrt(2)) of space on both ends of the port ~ it looks like you obstruct it internally with that brace, but much more dramatically with the port facing right into a plastic interior panel, unless thats the port in the corner there, in which case you need to clean up that 90* transition.

With vented boxes you have to realize that a lot of your SQ (and a decent amount of your SPL) has to do with how clean your port is.

[kingkilburn]

I can do the strips of mdf and the brace is further away than it looks. What do I need to do to clean up the 90* turn?

[kingkilburn]

I may be able to get a Pioneer GM-X962. Does any one here have any experience with it? I know it's a 2 channel but I'm not sure how that would work with my set up(no rear speakers with one sub). Would I use this for the sub and some thing with less power for the front?

[NismoDriverS13]

this thread is making me want to vomit!!!

why isnt this locked already?!?!

[mothon]

Why would it be locked?

[GSXRJJordan]

I can do the strips of mdf and the brace is further away than it looks. What do I need to do to clean up the 90* turn?

A smooth, constant diameter 90* bend is ideal - I usually use 3" ABS plastic and bondo/epoxy the joints and sand them down smooth. The exit needs to be super smooth too, so sand that into a "funnel" shape.

Easiest thing for rectangular ports is the 45* angle pieces, I guess just throw one of those in the 90* bend and use wood glue to make it as smooth as possible.

I may be able to get a Pioneer GM-X962. Does any one here have any experience with it? I know it's a 2 channel but I'm not sure how that would work with my set up(no rear speakers with one sub). Would I use this for the sub and some thing with less power for the front?

You'll need at least 4 channels to run the sub and the fronts. Four channel amps are cheap as hell, don't bother with two separate two channels.

this thread is making me want to vomit!!!

why isnt this locked already?!?!

I don't get it, are you saying most people have shitty setups?

I don't think that's news to anyone, least of all those posting here lol.

[kingkilburn]

So you wouldn't recommend using a tri-way crossover? I'm only interested because a friend wants to make me a deal. I will probably end up buying an old Hifonics Olympus off ebay.

[cereal_killer44]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v692/Taylor_williams1190/s13%20build/diamondd6indoors.jpg

diamond d662 silk 6.5's.

about to do glassed doors as the soundstage is near the shifter boot. going to try to get a proper sound stage after the first of the year.

the amp is a massive audio hd 800.4 running it on 100 watts per channel not bridged.


will update when my box gets finished.

[silviaguy240]

ok, what type/size of amp do i need for two 10" that are

power range: 50-300 watts RMS
peak power handling: 600 watts

this one look ok?(not getting from crutchfield) this is gonna be a semi budget setup for my daily.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GM5400T/Pioneer-GM-5400T.html?tp=115

[awesomenick]

Didn't want to bump this (http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/176820-audio-thread-speakers-amps-etc.html) OLD thread for my question...

But I'm going to start putting together a better sounding system. I don't need the best of everything, I just want it to sound better than my stock blown speakers. So far I'm thinking of using some of those ebay adapters to put some 6.5" in the door, and then whatever size fits in the rear of the hatch to match. I know nothing about this though, I'm the type of person who walks into Best Buy, and thinks that all of the speakers sound "good." Even though I know there's better stuff out there.

I need to buy a deck with too. I want it to have bluetooth and iPod control. I'm thinking about the Pioneer AVH-P3100DVD or DEH-7100BT maybe? But I'm open to suggestions. Basically if anybody has any experience with any of this or has a suggestion for some good, mid range speakers, I want to hear it!

[xawax]

i sound like i'm drunk and half asleep, but here is...also, you may want to skip to about the middle of this video cause there is not much going on in the first half...

YouTube - Carputer Project S13 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qN-NJ4tNVUk)

i will be integrating this with my sr via the consult port for digital gauges and logging/tuning on the fly...

[kingkilburn]

I just finished my install(pics in the am) but I still have a question.

With the amp I'm getting great highs and lows but the middle is a little muddy. How do I go about adjusting the crossovers for good sound quality? Also my amp comes with adjustable bass/treble boost, is this worth using?

[omgshawn]

Pioneer head unit
12" visonik
Jensen 500w amp
4x6 Pioneer's
4x6 Alpines
Battery relocation w/breaker and splitters
2 Farad capacitor waiting to go in

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/43/l_174fab44b9e94fb19defc05b891202d1.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3507/4061316967_bf5d489d0a.jpg

I plan on molding in 2 10's into the 1/4 panel space at the back corners of the hatch.

[kingkilburn]

Hmm. I could have sworn I posted these already. Guess not.

I plan on having it wrapped in carpet in the next couple of weeks.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs171.snc3/19866_1305255267127_1102873885_30959461_6949037_n. jpg

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs171.snc3/19866_1305255107123_1102873885_30959460_858862_n.j pg

[weshole]

Totally redesigning the system.
Put the Clarion h/u in wifes Outback.
Gave the Type R to my kid.

Bought a few TANG BAND 8" subs
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/TJamz/100_2263-2.jpg
compared to a pioneer 5x7
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/TJamz/100_2265-1.jpg
Built a suitable enclosure and wrapped it in some suede.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/TJamz/100_2286new.jpg

Oh and the 4ch amp i was using for all was getting lonely so I figured I'd add to the family with a sub amp.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/TJamz/100_2267-2.jpg
Is this enough to power a few 8's?
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/weshole/TJamz/100_2262-1.jpg

Same components as before. (Zapco) but head unit is either going to be a Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD or a JVC KW-AVX830. Im leaning towards the Pioneer because of the lil extras they offer and a better on board EQ along with having the option of adding nav if I see fit.

[GSXRJJordan]

What's the total space inside that box, about 3ft? I'm thinking four 8's without a vented/bandpass box will be awfully peaky ~

Sweet Zapco gear.

[kingkilburn]

I need some advice.

I am very happy with my system over all. It sounds great and has enough punch for me. It also gets very low without distorting.

My only issue is this, I noticed when listening to Ghosts n Stuff the kick drum in the song sounds very flat at the volumes I like to listen to while the sub bass in the song sounds great. If I turn down the volume I lose the sub bass but gain back the kick drum.

What do you think the issue is?

Here is the song.
<object width="560" height="340"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/h7ArUgxtlJs&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/h7ArUgxtlJs&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340"></embed></object>

EDIT
Hearing this song on my laptop reminds me how much I love my car's sound system. These little speakers DO NOT do this song justice.

[GSXRJJordan]

I need some advice.

I am very happy with my system over all. It sounds great and has enough punch for me. It also gets very low without distorting.

My only issue is this, I noticed when listening to Ghosts n Stuff the kick drum in the song sounds very flat at the volumes I like to listen to while the sub bass in the song sounds great. If I turn down the volume I lose the sub bass but gain back the kick drum.

What do you think the issue is?

Here is the song.

EDIT
Hearing this song on my laptop reminds me how much I love my car's sound system. These little speakers DO NOT do this song justice.

Haha, I love that song.

What you've probably got is interference between your midrange and your subwoofer - there are a couple of solutions, but neither is perfect. First, if your mids can play low enough, try crossing your sub lower (lower the low-pass crossover frequency on the head unit) or if not try crossing your mids higher (raise the high-pass freq on your head unit).

The other (better) option if your freq response is otherwise pretty smooth (do a freq sweep from 1000hz down to 20 or so and listen for peaks and valleys to check) is to reverse the phase of the subwoofer 180*. If your headunit supports this in software it's a 5 sec adjustment, if not just reverse the left and right channel RCAs going into your sub amp. This will change the frequencies in which the sub and mids destructively interfere, and will change "where" it sounds like the bass is "coming from".

[kingkilburn]

How would I go about doing a freq sweep? I understand why I should do it just not how.

[repda916]

what brand/type of speakers would you guys recommend for my vert? when the top is down i wat it to be clearly audible.
as of now im in the mids of my build so i have no front or rear speakers.

[kingkilburn]

It would seem to me that even with the top up quality sound out of a convertible would be hard to come by. I guess we'll see what Jeff has to say.

[GSXRJJordan]

How would I go about doing a freq sweep? I understand why I should do it just not how.

If you don't have a frequency generator function on your laptop or Iphone (iSweep is old, but works), you can record/download a PCM/WAVE (not MP3!!!!) file with a sweep on it.

Naturally, being able to control the start/end frequencies as well as the sweep range is awesome. Next you need a really sweet mic setup so you can graph your response. Then you do the same thing, but while you're driving at constant speed. Then you do it at many different speeds.

Then you realize that it's a 240sx and not a Bentley, and that it's never going to be perfect, and /wrists. :)

what brand/type of speakers would you guys recommend for my vert? when the top is down i wat it to be clearly audible.
as of now im in the mids of my build so i have no front or rear speakers.

Top down you're going to need some power. It all depends on budget ~ the best bang for the buck to me is CDT, as I put together custom component systems with their parts for about half of what a comparable component setup costs from Focal, Rainbow, Dynaudio, Seas, MB Quart, etc.

Post up a budget and what you're willing to put up with sound-deadening-wise, and I'll give you an idea.

[kingkilburn]

I changed the phase of the sub and it's made quite a difference in the sound. It doesn't have quit the punch it did before but it feels like there is more sub bass(it's hard to explain). I think I need to play with the crossovers again.

It definitely got ride of the flat sounding kick drum though.


Update: I adjusted both crossovers down. That with swapping the phase of the sub has made it sound like a whole new system. Now I'm worried about cooking the amp. lol I'll see how that goes.

Thank you Jeff. Great advice.

[weshole]

What's the total space inside that box, about 3ft? I'm thinking four 8's without a vented/bandpass box will be awfully peaky ~

Sweet Zapco gear.

2.21 before sub displacement. Damn near 2.0 with. its got a slot vent out the right rear side.

what brand/type of speakers would you guys recommend for my vert? when the top is down i wat it to be clearly audible.
as of now im in the mids of my build so i have no front or rear speakers.


I had the same Zapco 4ch amp and components in my last car (MIATA) and as was stated prior. it does take a lot of power to overcome the inherent flaws of a convertible but with the set up I used, it fukn rocked. and sound quality was great (with top up and not moving lol). Now, with the top down, all bets are off. Sound quality is out the window. But if you want to sound good and hear it at all, it needs to be loud at speed. And, it better be clean at those volumes and power levels or shit gets blown fast. At 50+ mph, you cant hear distortion that would normally kill a tweeter or woofer.

[240Z28]

im runnind a pair of 5" idk brans in the front and a 10" infinity sub... just dont know wat to use for rears in my hatch

[ki_JDM_ds]

S13 Hatch

OEM Tape Deck + OEM Optional CD Deck
Alpine Type-R Front and Rear
eBay Speaker Adapters Front and Rear

Looking for some OEM Tweeters so I can sell my Front Apline Type-R coaxial's for some Alpine Type-R Components.

[imnotmatt1189]

S13 Coupe

Eclipse AVN30D Double Din
Unknown brand mismatching tweeters (came with the car)
Kenwood 6.5" Speakers (F)
Pioneer 4x6" Speakers (R)
Koiiler 4-Channel 400-Watt (not sure) Amplifier

My double din is outdated... runs kinda slow when going through the menu and such... and my speakers are cheapy. someday I want to redo my whole system with better quality stuff... but what i have does the job so it's at the very bottom of my priority list for my 240.

[240Z28]

s13 hatch
absolute atv860 hu
im runnind a pair of 5" idk brans in the front
hifonics 400w amp for the front speakers
10" infinity reference series sub
nitro 1000w amp for the sub... just dont know wat to use for rears in my hatch