Help...weird shit happening...

[iworshiplemons]

Alright... i'm just going to explain my problem. I am baffled.

This is my progression of events.
Disconnect battery. Charge at trickle (2.5 amps) overnight until full. Auto-cut off on the charger, so no over charging.
Stick battery on, re-ground entire car, new battery terminals.
Fix coolant leak
Start up car, let it idle, warmed up. Hit the fans, and go for a test drive.
It's all fine, I get to the gas station, pull up to the parking spot, and push the clutch. Car immediately dies.
Start it again. Sluggish start, have to give it a little gas to get it going and keep running. If I let the gas and clutch in, in neutral (supposed to be idling), it dies.
So I drive like a madman home without using the clutch most of the way, and ignoring many stop signs so my car didn't die. Yes, i'm stupid, but i'd rather go slowly and cautiously through a stop sign than have my car die on me in the middle of an interstate.
Get it home, park it, turn on the turbo timer, and it idles. Relatively badly and low, but it idles.
Cuts off when the turbo timer reaches zero... will crank again but does the stupid bullshit where it will die.
I need help..
it's either electrical (alternator not charging) or vacuum leak.
Let me know what you guys think...

EDIT:
Stock internal SR20DET
Lots of bolt ons, but nothing "special".
Running open DP for now...

[unicoladron]

does it behave differently under boost?

and wait i'm a little confused about your explanation.

does this ONLY happen if the car is "warm". or will the idling kill it even if it's still cold..?

and your'e runing an open DP...do you mean downpipe? i'm astonished how you didn't get pulled over if you really mean downpipe.

and if you really are running na open downpipe, you will run like shit because i believe there is not enough "backpressure" with an open dp. my car ran like complete ass when i had just the dp installed.

did you mean open "BOV" or "DV"...? because if your'e running an atmospheric bov your problem is a little more evident.

and if you do suspect vac leaks, inspect all of your vac lines, and if you don't notice anything, and you still suspect vac leaks, spray "carb cleaner" near suspected problem vac lines and observe idle....Also, perhaps adjusting and/or cleaning your IACV would help. the IACV cleaning procedure can be found using the search.

[iworshiplemons]

Open down pipe.
Cops here in Texas don't give a fuck. If it still moves, you can drive it on the road.
BOV is the new HKS SSQV.

See, the thing that makes me suspect electrical problems is when it's cold (aka just started it with a fresh batt charge) it idles, drives, and behaves just fine. Then, when you've driven it two miles or so and you're slowing down, or stick the clutch, or something to cause it to idle, it doesn't. Just dies.
Another strange thing is when I pulled the battery off of my car and checked it, 12.5 volts... certainly not dead...
Sounding more and more like a vac leak...
I have an SR. open down pipe is, if anything, better. Backpressure + turbo = fail

When I got the car, the guy said the shop who did the install don't know what's wrong with the BOV. Say I started it at my shop, and was just letting it sit there. If I rev it from the TB under the hood, and slightly hit boost (just enough to activate the BOV) then it bogs down like it just ran REALLY rich, then recovers...
Any way to fix...?

EDIT: Will follow IACV cleaning guide when it's light out. Can't hurt.

[iworshiplemons]

Now I read more and more on the IACV cleaning guide, it seems this guy's problems were almost identical to mine...
Also, something a friend of mine said to me earlier strikes home... a venturi vac leak...
Hm, time for some tinkering.

[Addicted2Kouki]

Recirculate.

[MELLO*SOS]

Check for boost/vac leaks with a pressure tester.
What codes are stored on the ECU? Does it rev past 2500?
Did you bleed the coolant system after you fixed the leak?

[unicoladron]

problem # 1: you're running with an atmospheric BOV. this can be fixed by recirculating or correcting your decel settings/other tuning with an AFC.

Problem # 2: it appears your car starts acting funny and idling shitty once it's warmed up. you should see which codes you pull from your ECU, but i'm willing to bet it is your coolant temp sensor (there are two located by the TB, the smaller 1 wire is for your cluster, the larger 2 wire is the CTS for the ECU, which i believe is causing some of your troubles. you can pick one up from a local parts store. 93 sentra se-r had an sr20de. (other years had the same engine, but i use engine parts from 93).

swap in the new CTS and see how it runs after it warms up.

[iworshiplemons]

Well, another funny thing is the factory coolant gauge doesn't work...
How does one set up a SSQV for recirculation? Not possible without a different BOV, is it?

I will pick up a new CTS from vatozone tomorrow, and I will thoroughly clean out the IACV valve.
Report tomorrow.
Thanks for all the help.