High Idle KA24DE

[hinds90]

Okay I have pulled all of the egr components off (pulled out butterflies and the rod that they attach to which left holes in the runners inside the intake manifold would this cause a whistle sound at idle and cruising speed) so I guess its not egr related. Cleaned the iacv I only have one code and its egr related so it shouldn't affect the way the car idles. When I crank the car up it shoots to 2000 rpms and comes back down to like 1100 rpms. It has a slight stumble at idle(you can feel it through the shifter) and also when your cruising on the highway.

Also when i just blip the throttle at idle the rpm's will shoot to 2000-2200 rpms and come back down and hover at 1500 rpms. Sometimes it slowly climbs anywhere from 1400 rpms to 2200 rpms.

Could anybody point me in the right directions thanks.

[S13Boosts]

check ur timing.

[nightshiftgarage]

if you removed all the egr crap id check for vacum leaks first. make sure ant of the hard lines on the bottom of the manifold are capped off in case they run back in the to the mani. just my guess. is there any reason to check your timing? did you remove your dizzy?

[DRIFTGEAR]

Hey, i have a SOHC and that just happened to me yesterday with the high idle. My car battery died, i tried cranking it like 5 times then with a jump starter that had a weak charge a few times more. When i was cranking the car there seemed to be some funky things with all the electricals like the radio randomly turning itself on when i cranked the car....

Now i have 1500-2000rpm idle. I cleaned the MAF, tweaked the idle valve to no success and it seems like I don't have any vaccum leaks......i neeeeeeed helppppppppp

[Anto]

True, i'd check for vac leaks on the intake manifold.
Sounds like you have one, based on the statement "it has a slight stumble when crusing on the highway"


Also, make sure all connections are sung.

[hinds90]

I haven't taken the distributor out but the guy who traded me the car definately had his hands on it if you know what I mean.

I also have a clicking sound from the front of the valve cover so i did some research and pulled it off to check the guides. Well there both gone but I still hear the noise. I could also see grinding spots at the top were the cam gears are (underneath the valve cover) and if your standing in front of the engine that side (right) of the chain has a lot of slack. So i guess this means the distributor was taken out which could lead to the timing being off.

Anybody who has taken the butterfly valves out and the rod that there attached to can you hear a whistle from the intake?

[nightshiftgarage]

no, slack on the right side dosent necassarily mean your dizzy was pulled. it just means you tensioner is bad id say, you should only have slack on the left side which your tensioner should be taking care of. id say if you have slack on the right side , it probably has jumped time. im assuming you have removed the upper guide right under the valve cover?
sounds like it might be time for some serious tlc.

[SnakeKack]

Don't you have to seal the holes up where the butterfly valve rod was with JB weld? I haven't done this but last I read about it it said to. Did you plug those up?

[hinds90]

I didn't remove the timing guides the guy who traded me the car did. I was going to remove them because of the clicking noise I heard but when I took the valve cover off the timing guides were already out.

I'm not sure if your suppose to fill the holes inside the manifold. From what I read you just had to fill the hole on the outside of the manifold.

I say the dizzy was pulled because the timing guides were taken out by the previous owner I guess. You have to take the dizzy out to take the guides out right.

So there shouldn't be any slack on the side that the tensioner isn't on which would be the dizzy side correct(Standing in front of the car right side).

Also theres a exhaust manifold bolt stripped (its the last one towards the firewall) but I don't see any carbon build up.

Also looked at the rotor and cap today. The rotor has something which looks like rust and 3 of the metal tabs in side the cap has them as well. Going to replace those tomorrow to see if that clears it up.

Could someone explain how I can check my timing with and without a timing light.


Thanks.

[Anto]

timing gun, clip terminals to + and -, and the first spark plug wire. aim the gun at the front pulley

OR

if you don't have a timing gun, you can use a stobe light. check the FSM or search on exactly how to do it

[nightshiftgarage]

yes , correct on the timing chain deal, but he took out the guide that down inside the front cover on the right side?(if youre facing the engine) thats not normally removed.just the guide on top underneath the vc. there was a service file from nissan stating to remove that guide only. if theres that much slack in the chain to hit the lower guide , you might want to do a timing chain/tensioner replacment.
i know its tempting , but dont buy a kit off of ebay, you will regret it. oem only, i have a freind who did that and it lasted about 2 weeks. too much plastic in those kits.

[hinds90]

Well thanks for all the advice. I'm going to take the intake manifold apart next weekend and fill in those holes inside of the manifold that the butterfly rod left. How much do the timing kit cost from nissan (I already have new water pump and thermostat) .

Also when I took my manifold off of course I disconnected the battery and I guess that may have reset the ecu. when I put everything back together the car idled good, the shifter didn't shake or any of that stuff but slowly it started to run like crap again. I guess my question is if it were a timing issue wouldn't the car drive funky no matter if you reset the ecu or not.

[sijia10358]

if its high...turn it down! lol jk i don"t know...

[Timeattack]

If you removed the EGR you need to block off the two holes, one is on the exhause manifold and the other on the back of the intake manifold as you probably already know. You DO NOT have to take the intake manifold off, all you have to do is get a thin flat piece of metal or aluminum, put two holes in it and use some RTV sealant and bolt it to the intake manifold where the EGR used to connect. This should fix your problem.

[hinds90]

Well I remove all of the egr crap last weekend because I thought it would fix my idle. I plugged the hole coming from the exhaust and the one behind the intake. I am going take it back apart and just redo everything. I didn't replace all of my vacuum hoses. I found one last night that was ripped underneath the throttle body thought (looked like a idle hose, went to a little hole in the throttle body) that would fix the idle but it didn't. I think it may be a vacuum problem but i'm still going to replace the timing kit.

[hinds90]

Also I do not know if this means anything but Im throwing 2 codes p1400 EGR and canister control solenoid valve. P1401 EGR temp sensor (tried the resistor guess I got the wrong one).

[hinds90]

Well I remove all of the egr crap last weekend because I thought it would fix my idle. I plugged the hole coming from the exhaust and the one behind the intake. I am going take it back apart and just redo everything. I didn't replace all of my vacuum hoses. I found one last night that was ripped underneath the throttle body thought (looked like a idle hose, went to a little hole in the throttle body) that would fix the idle but it didn't. I think it may be a vacuum problem but i'm still going to replace the timing kit.

[MURPHY]

deff make sure everything behind intake manifold is plugged. use some choke/carb clean or brake clean and spray around. if idle changes you found your source of leak.

[hinds90]

deff make sure everything behind intake manifold is plugged. use some choke/carb clean or brake clean and spray around. if idle changes you found your source of leak.Thanks very much. Had some choke/carb cleaner and found my problem. That whistle I'm hearing is the vacuum leak. Thanks to everyone in this thread.