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nine3240sx
12-12-2007, 09:30 AM
i was woundering how do you prime the oil pump and turbo?:-/ i have a s13 with a sr red top

statik
12-12-2007, 09:37 AM
Disconnect the CAS so the coils/injectors won't fire and crank the motor over until the oil PSI light turns off, if it's a fresh swap with no oil in it you should take a break from cranking every 10 sec as to not burn out the starter, it can sometimes take a good 20-30 sec of cranking to turn the light off.

UNISA JECS
12-12-2007, 09:47 AM
what he saiid^^^and most importantly take all your spark plugs out, the cylinder pressures while cranking can destroy your bearing when there is no oil pressure present.

nine3240sx
12-12-2007, 12:14 PM
so does the pump work off from the crank?

tknbkthrsdy4anfg
12-12-2007, 12:18 PM
yes, the oil pump is driven by the crank in the front cover.

nine3240sx
12-12-2007, 12:29 PM
im having a hard @$$ time trying to primp the pump.i took all my plugs and dissconected the injectors and the oil light still hasnt turned off:loco:

INeedNewTires
12-12-2007, 12:51 PM
on the same topic (not trying to thread jack just dont want to start a new thread) if my car is running fine, primed and what not, but i install an oil cooler, how will i go about priming that thing? same process? but i dont want to pull the spark plugs if i dont have to....

UNISA JECS
12-12-2007, 01:07 PM
I would also fill my oil filter with enough oil just to absorb into the filtering element but not so much that it spills out when screwing it on, and I would get a funnel with a small nozzle and pour oil directly into the oil filter bracket/stud to ensure the oil pump gear are submerged in oil to help get the siphoning effect going to the pump so it can start picking up from the oil pan.

nine3240sx
12-12-2007, 06:50 PM
well i tried to prime the oil pump and no dice.i read on heavythrottle.com to pour oil through the turbo line on the block and it would help but still no dice.is there any other way to prime the oil pump?:cry:

nissan240sxkid
12-12-2007, 06:58 PM
is this a new pump or are you starting your motor for the first time from doing a swap?

nine3240sx
12-12-2007, 07:03 PM
this is a fresh swap for my car.i bought the motor with a slight rod knock and got that fixed.the motor startes fine but when i first started it the light kept blinking.today i took my valve cover off and my cams were dry im not getting any oil to come out of the little lines that site on top of the cams is this a new pump or are you starting your motor for the first time from doing a swap?

unicoladron
12-12-2007, 07:09 PM
are you using an OEM steel oilpan? before swapping the engine in (did you do the swap yourself?) did you ensure the oil pan wasn't dented in? this is a common problem on SR's since the engine when pulled rests on the oilpan. i say pull your lower steel oilpan off and bang the dents out with a hammer. sounds like your oil pickup isn't distributing the oil to the rest of the engine. i would stop cranking the engine until you confirm your pickup is getting oil to your engine....

wonkuuzenki
12-12-2007, 07:09 PM
OH SHIT.
Just had to say that.

nissan240sxkid
12-12-2007, 07:10 PM
was the block cleaned before it was put back together

nine3240sx
12-12-2007, 07:22 PM
my oil pan isnt dented up.i did the swap my self and before i put it back together i cleaned the motor and made shue nothing was left behind.the only thing i did was weld my pickup tube bacause ive heard that red top sr pick up tubes are weak.

nissan240sxkid
12-12-2007, 07:26 PM
Its critical that its in the exact place from the factory so it picks up oil properly. If you welded it you could of tweaked it fro heat and the flange might be suckin air

nine3240sx
12-12-2007, 07:31 PM
well i geuss ill look at me pick up tube tommarrow and see if thers any holes in it Its critical that its in the exact place from the factory so it picks up oil properly. If you welded it you could of tweaked it fro heat and the flange might be suckin air

unicoladron
12-12-2007, 07:32 PM
which method of welding did you use?

when i was priming my engine for first time startup, i primed it until i saw lots of oil squirting out of the squirters for the cams. basically what i did was uncap the oil filler on the vc, and cranked until oil spewed out of there. it took about 3 separate 10 second cranking intervals to satisfy this.


try cranking the engine with the oil filler off, and see if oil starts shooting the cam lobes or shooting out of the filler hole. this will determine if your pump is providing oil.

also i don't know if the OE oil pressure "sensor" is prone to failure, but did you ever think your oil light could be accurate. from what i understand it's a very basic switch.

if you're really crazy, you can temporarily connect a real oil pressure sensor to your oil filter block.

nine3240sx
12-12-2007, 07:45 PM
thats the problem i saw no oil coming out of the oil squirters for the camswhich method of welding did you use?

when i was priming my engine for first time startup, i primed it until i saw lots of oil squirting out of the squirters for the cams. basically what i did was uncap the oil filler on the vc, and cranked until oil spewed out of there. it took about 3 separate 10 second cranking intervals to satisfy this.


try cranking the engine with the oil filler off, and see if oil starts shooting the cam lobes or shooting out of the filler hole. this will determine if your pump is providing oil.

also i don't know if the OE oil pressure "sensor" is prone to failure, but did you ever think your oil light could be accurate. from what i understand it's a very basic switch.

if you're really crazy, you can temporarily connect a real oil pressure sensor to your oil filter block.

gotta240
12-13-2007, 01:21 AM
Think about it... What caused the rod knock in the first place?

Did you replace the oil pump?

nine3240sx
12-13-2007, 07:21 AM
i bought the motor with the rod knock as is Think about it... What caused the rod knock in the first place?

Did you replace the oil pump?

punxva
12-13-2007, 07:36 AM
yes we understand that, but did you actually replace the pump? if not then what he's saying is thats probably why it knocked

nine3240sx
12-13-2007, 07:51 AM
ok i never replaced the pump maybe that my problem:loco:

punxva
12-13-2007, 07:56 AM
i'd put my money on that

gotta240
12-13-2007, 08:37 AM
ding ding ding. Punxva wins

nine3240sx
12-13-2007, 08:47 AM
just wanting to know if my oil pick up tube has a hole in it can that cause my oil problem also?:loco:

statik
12-13-2007, 08:57 AM
If your system isn't building pressure then its either the pump, the pickup, or some sort of clog, and as pointed out, since you bought the motor with knock its possible the oil pump died. I would also imagine if your pickup had a hole in it that it would have trouble building pressure as well.

nine3240sx
12-13-2007, 09:32 AM
cool thanks ill probably look at my pickup tube today

gotta240
12-13-2007, 03:58 PM
Try sucking through a good straw. Remove straw.

Now punch a hole in the side of the straw. Re-insert straw into liquid. Suck.

I just helped you answer your own question.

nine3240sx
12-14-2007, 09:31 AM
i wanted to know if its a must to take the head to put a new ol pump on the sr?or can i get away with just sliding it out?:tweak:

statik
12-14-2007, 10:07 AM
i wanted to know if its a must to take the head to put a new ol pump on the sr?or can i get away with just sliding it out?:tweak:

The main reason it's such a bitch is because the oil pump sticks out about 1/4" below the timing cover into the upper pan, so it won't simply pop on/off between the head/oil pan.

I've tried it with the motor in the car, without pulling the head or dropping the upper pan, I got it out BARELY, could not get it back in, had to pull the head. You could also lower the upper pan instead, but doing that with the motor in the car is IMO worse than pulling the head. I destroyed part of the oem head gasket that covers the timing cover trying this as well.

nine3240sx
12-17-2007, 08:56 AM
can i change the insides from the oil pumps from the ka24de to the sr

statik
12-17-2007, 09:55 AM
can i change the insides from the oil pumps from the ka24de to the sr

I've never seen a ka pump so I can't say for sure, but im going to go ahead and say "no" anyway =]

RedtopTech
12-17-2007, 05:51 PM
You should not replace the pump gyrotor itself. Replace the front cover. Since you are installing a new cover i would rec. that you resurface the block with the new cover attached especially if you have already resurfaced when you "took care of the knock." If you dont than you may have some alignment issues around the crankshaft or head/cover surfaces. What did you do besides replace bearing." If you simply installed new bearings without checking the clearances or out of round journals, the additional clearance can dramaticly lower oil pressure.

ryan hagen
02-03-2008, 09:04 AM
Every one is takin shots in the dark. so tell us exactly what you did to this thing to fix the "knock" and any other modifications or new parts added.

Get a brand new oil pump/timing cover assembly, the only time you can get away with just changing the guts is if the engine you tore was in great operateing condition and you tore it down for no other reason other than to upgrade. Even then the aluminum surfaces can be scratched or gouged, your oil pump is only protected by the strainer. The filter comes after it to protect the bearings etc. scratches in that surface lower your oil pressure and could still have debris inbedded.

the KA gears and small cover are different. i have a s14 sr and s14/s13 oil pumps apart in my basement, out of the 3 ka's i tore down that ran fine only one cover out of 2 with no problems was still ok, the other has scratches, and the one i tore down that ran with a knock, its horrible inside.