khmerguy618
12-10-2007, 11:31 PM
So I had a cat. I decided that it was restricting my power and I got a Downpipe from Mel. Turns out that it sat at a weird angle and Kept leaking right where the header mounts to the downpipe (you can see where it kept getting loose and leaking compared to the new header)
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007168.jpg
I opted to get a SS header by BBP 4-2-1 single piece. Construction is pretty cool The welds look good.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12092007159.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12092007160.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12092007161.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12092007162.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12092007163.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12092007164.jpg
I took it to a local shop to get the EGR bung welded up. I forgot to take a before picture of the header (OEM) but i'm sure u guys know what it looks like.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007168.jpg
(you can see where its welded up at the EGR)
First off you're going to have to remove the heat shield ( i didn't have one so no need there).
Next i'd recommend using WD-40 or something to break soak on through and loosen the nuts. (there's 8 of them on the manifold connected to the block and then 2 where the cat is connected and 3 where the header and down pipe connect).
i removed the 8 nuts on the motor (14mm) - it's really easy w/ the stock mani, the new one is welded so u have to use a ratcheting wrench to tighten the bottom nuts when you the new one on.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007171.jpg
(don't forget to unbolt the 2 bolts holding the DP to the dummy cat)
Here is a pic of the new gasket (1piece) vs' the old gaskets. The new one was very impressive and included with the header, all metal, pretty thick and fit like a glove. (you can also see the where the 8bolts are)
*when removing the gaskets you might have trouble w/ the cyl. 1 gasket. There is a spring that holds it down (far left bottom bolt) so i just cut it.*
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007170.jpg
what I did was take off all the o2 sensors and put them on before i put the new headers in.. Do it anyway you like but it's easier when its not on the car.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007169.jpg
Now just slide the new headers in and bolt up in reverse order. plug the sensors back on in and you're set.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007174.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007173.jpg
Just a side note: i'd recommend unbolting the header from the DP (since the oem s14 one has a huge ass cat on it, it's hard to pull up as one piece). When you unbolt it u can seperate the top and bottom pieces.
*power gains not so significant, BUT the powerband is a whole lot smoother. and the sound is a much cleaner and out the tail pipe minus that exhaust leak I had.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007168.jpg
I opted to get a SS header by BBP 4-2-1 single piece. Construction is pretty cool The welds look good.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12092007159.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12092007160.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12092007161.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12092007162.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12092007163.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12092007164.jpg
I took it to a local shop to get the EGR bung welded up. I forgot to take a before picture of the header (OEM) but i'm sure u guys know what it looks like.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007168.jpg
(you can see where its welded up at the EGR)
First off you're going to have to remove the heat shield ( i didn't have one so no need there).
Next i'd recommend using WD-40 or something to break soak on through and loosen the nuts. (there's 8 of them on the manifold connected to the block and then 2 where the cat is connected and 3 where the header and down pipe connect).
i removed the 8 nuts on the motor (14mm) - it's really easy w/ the stock mani, the new one is welded so u have to use a ratcheting wrench to tighten the bottom nuts when you the new one on.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007171.jpg
(don't forget to unbolt the 2 bolts holding the DP to the dummy cat)
Here is a pic of the new gasket (1piece) vs' the old gaskets. The new one was very impressive and included with the header, all metal, pretty thick and fit like a glove. (you can also see the where the 8bolts are)
*when removing the gaskets you might have trouble w/ the cyl. 1 gasket. There is a spring that holds it down (far left bottom bolt) so i just cut it.*
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007170.jpg
what I did was take off all the o2 sensors and put them on before i put the new headers in.. Do it anyway you like but it's easier when its not on the car.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007169.jpg
Now just slide the new headers in and bolt up in reverse order. plug the sensors back on in and you're set.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007174.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/sereitun/nokia%20n75/12102007173.jpg
Just a side note: i'd recommend unbolting the header from the DP (since the oem s14 one has a huge ass cat on it, it's hard to pull up as one piece). When you unbolt it u can seperate the top and bottom pieces.
*power gains not so significant, BUT the powerband is a whole lot smoother. and the sound is a much cleaner and out the tail pipe minus that exhaust leak I had.