Pissed off about front speakers booooooooooo

[jspaeth]

So I just bought a brand new Alpine head unit. For the past 3 years, I've had no rear speakers, as the sun had fried them to a crisp.

I just bought a set of Polk DB series for the front and was really psyched to put them in. First, I moved the ORIGINAL stock Clarions (SE model) to the rear, and used foam to as a dampener between the speaker and the metal where it mounts.

I tested them out, and WOAH! I turned it up really loud, no buzzes at all and perfect clarity.

Then, I installed the new front speakers up front, with some foam padding at all mounting points to dampen vibrations.

Nonetheless, I turned the stereo on and at equal volumes, the front buzzed FAR before the rear did. I don't think it's the speaker quality, but rather the fact that the doors are just shitty for front speakers.....it's like there are so many things in the door that can rattly it's absurd.

Anyone have any good solution for making the front speakers stop buzzing?

[s13gold]

dynamat the whole door.

[ayuaddict]

i have a wal-mart deck and stock civic speakers in my 240 and it makes like this weeeeeeeeee sound which somehow synchronizes it self with the RPM...

very annoying.

same problem?

or maybe its because my whole "system" cost around $50 or perhaps because my battery is grounded inside the car?

[punxva]

the guy above me, you need to check your grounds or get a ground loop isolator, i've got polks all around, including 5.5" rounds up front, with no rattles.

[S14DB]

OP needs couple strips of dynamat.

RPM dude has a Ground Loop. Google it for solutions.

[White Comet]

^ aw man, everyone beat me to it. i was gonna say both those things

[jspaeth]

Yeah I'm pretty sure it's vibrations from the door, not the speakers.

Also, when I used to play songs over my IPod through a FM transmitter, I would get a weeeeeeeee sound that increased with RPM....

My dad convinced me that it is interference from the coilpacks.

So yeah I need some dynamat or whatever I guess.

[Slammed180]

It's your deck.

Lower quality speakers can run on the built-in amp that's inside the deck. Higher quality speakers require a "cleaner" power to run them effeciently.

I.E: I have a 200 watt max power pioneer deck that's running two Alpine Type R 6.5" rounds that are 350 watts max. I blew them. which wouldn't make sense right? the speakers are suppossed to be able to handle another 150 watts of power. But the signal from the amp is crap, and is distorting the sound.

Got new ones on warranty. I blew them.

They need their own supply of cleaner, better quality power. The stock amp inside your deck wont cut it. I suggest getting a small 2 channel 250 watt amp. You'll be suprised as to the quality difference.

Hope this helps out

[jackjack]

^thats what i did. worked great.

[GSXRJJordan]

Suggestions to both problems have been made - take them. In my sig there's a link to a thread I contributed to, based more towards the high end, but anyone interested in good audio should definitely check it out ~

[Gjohnson7]

My dad convinced me that it is interference from the coilpacks.



Seriously???? :confused:

[MELLO*SOS]

Mine don't buzz at all..

Did you make templates and put in 6.5s?

[Max_PSi]

Whenever you take anything apart interior-wise, it will never be the same.

Bolts/fasteners/nuts that were spec'd out at the factory once taken off, usually don't seal as well. Lets not forget that most of our cars are anywhere from 9-18yrs old right now. Time takes its toll. Thats not including tracked/drifted cars.

Dynamat is the way to go to help eleviate most of your rattles and/or vibrations. The whine is a grounding issue as previously mentioned.

[Tops*]

Everyone's mentioned Dynamat, but I hope you know it's pretty pricey. It'll reduce noise and keep the music in your car. If you don't care too much about audio, take a much, much cheaper route by sourcing the noise and using weatherproofing tape as a damper.

[ayuaddict]

the guy above me, you need to check your grounds or get a ground loop isolator, i've got polks all around, including 5.5" rounds up front, with no rattles.

ground for the battery or ground for the cd player deck thingy?

i know nothing about audio, i just got sick of having no music on my commute.

[jspaeth]

I am going to have to disagree with the person that said that the buzzing is due to the "inferior internal amps of my deck"....I am not saying this isn't possible, just that I don't think that it's applicable to my case

It's only the front speakers that buzzz....the original front speakers buzzed....I then moved them to the back, and no buzzing back there....

Then put new 6.5" speakers up front, and sure enough, they buzz too. When I say buzz, I guess I should be clear....I am pretty sure it is vibration from the door, and not the speaker itself buzzing.

I have Polk DBs up front, but as we know, the holes are 6.75" apart, and most speakers are 6.5"...I called Polk, and their tech guy was nice enough to send me these adapter rings for free (that come with the new 2008 model DB series)...

They work great....I screwed them into the plastic bracket, and then screwed the speakers into these, and in between each contact of metal against plastic or plastic on plastic, I put a piece of foam padding.

Word

[chuy]

Run another ground from the speakers it will clear up that static or what not going with the RPMs

[ayuaddict]

im sorry for being a super noob when it comes to car audio and what not but um....

how do you ground speakers? i would just try and figure it out but i don't wanna short out my deck and be down $50 and another trip to wal-mart....

i wouldn't have any audio in my 240 if it wasn't for the fact that its my daily.

also would the weird sound be caused by the fact that i only have front speakers?

[DaPCWiz]

I think I know what you are talking about with the buzzing. I used to get it on the passenger door on my old S14. If I grabbed the door handle, and pulled towards me when I heard the buzzing it would go away. It was some kinda rattle in the interior door panel, not in the metal door itself.

[SW20Racer]

OP, when i installed my audio i had a few kinks to work out myself. easiest thing i found was take it to circuit city or the like drive around back where they have the install bay and slip a guy $20 or a j and problem(s) solved

[jspaeth]

"drive around back where they have the install bay and slip a guy $20 or a j and problem(s) solved"


hahahhaha

[firelizard]

Find every little clip in the door that isn't super snug, and make it snug by bulking it up with tape. It's not the cure-all solution, but it will help with vibrations.

[DaPCWiz]

Find every little clip in the door that isn't super snug, and make it snug by bulking it up with tape. It's not the cure-all solution, but it will help with vibrations.

I actually did that on my rear deck cuz I have a few broken clips. Works pretty good.

[nevaland9]

Yeah I'm pretty sure it's vibrations from the door, not the speakers.

Also, when I used to play songs over my IPod through a FM transmitter, I would get a weeeeeeeee sound that increased with RPM....

My dad convinced me that it is interference from the coilpacks.

So yeah I need some dynamat or whatever I guess.

dude, its a mad JDM musical tach. I had one when i put a sub in my old car, i dont remember how i fixed it tho.

[DaPCWiz]

dude, its a mad JDM musical tach. I had one when i put a sub in my old car, i dont remember how i fixed it tho.

lol aka alternator whine. It occurs when there is a difference in voltage between two different ground points in your sound system. Easiest way to fix it in terms of wirings is to ground all your shit to the same point and make sure your grounds are good. I have a whole custom audio setup w/ a carpc and I grounded everything to the airbag computer under the back seat.

If you have all stock wiring - just make sure your harness that your head unit hooks up to is clean and the ground wiring that connects to it is properly spliced / soldered / whatever.