bushings!

[statik]

My subframe bushings were shot, and the collars weren't cutting it anymore, since I had the subframe down I decided to do the rear control arm bushings at the same time. This car sees some autox and eventually id like to try out an HPDE but it's no track car, so adjustable/solid arms was not what I was looking for. I went with nismo subframe bushings and energy suspension polyurethane control arm bushings.

Dropping the subframe, in hindsight I should have left the diff in and used that to drop it from, would have been easier but 2 jacks manage to do it.

http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2433-2/102_1193.jpg

The subframe is pretty light without the diff in there =]

http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2437-2/102_1194.jpg

Turns out the front 2 bushings were practically ripped in half

http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2438-1/102_1195.jpg
http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2446-2/102_1197.jpg

Unfortunately I do most of the work by myself so taking pictures while cutting out bushings was not my first thought, but basically: drilled out the rubber around the inner shell, didn't burn any rubber out, then you just cut the outer shell to relieve the tension and tap it out.

http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2453-1/102_1200.jpg

I had planned on powder coating everything, but in the end I was short on time, and really just wanted to drive the car so I said fuck it, the rust wasn't that bad on the subframe.

The arms/uprights
http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2457-2/102_1201.jpg
http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2463-2/102_1203.jpg

You could always use a press right? Torrin 10-ton mini press $250 shipped from northern tool with extended warranty.

http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2466-2/102_1204.jpg

A 7/8" socket fits perfectly in the arms, so thats what I used to press them out, then just use a large socket to catch the bushing.

http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2469-2/102_1205.jpg
http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2475-2/102_1207.jpg

It's very important that you align everything properly when doing this, if you are not careful it's possible to shatter a socket under enough load(so I've read), it was easy to tell when something wasn't going to budge, so I just stopped and re centered the socket.

Viola!
http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2478-2/102_1208.jpg
http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2481-2/102_1210.jpg

The A arms were impossible to press out, they have a collar that prevents you from pressing them straight on, so I had to burn/cut them out.
The camber/toe arms were the easiest to do since its a straight shot through top to bottom. The uprights took careful positioning and some creative thinking.

When installing the new bushings be sure to clean out the arms and use a bit of the supplied grease on the inside of the arm, the outside of the bushing, and the inside of the bushing, as well as the new sleeve that goes inside the bushing. Unfortunately that shit is like glue, so I didn't get a lot of pictures.

http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2487-2/102_1226.jpg
http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2493-2/102_1228.jpg
http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2496-2/102_1229.jpg
http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2499-2/102_1230.jpg

All done!
http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2505-2/102_1232.jpg
http://gallery.carvolution.org/main.php/d/2508-2/102_1233.jpg

I ran out of battery so I don't have any of the subframe bushings/installation, but it's possible to press ALL of these bushings in using this press and some creativity. A larger (and more expensive) press would probably be easier to use.

The best advice i can give when pressing the new bushings is patience and a flat head screw driver, squeezing these bushings into the arms was frustrating, the grease easily gets dirt on it, which you don't want, and the ends of the bushings are quite large and don't seem like they will want to fit.

Before installing the subframe I bolted everything to it, installed the diff/axles, and torqued everything down. It seemed much easier to install it as one piece then doing everything under the car. I had a friend help guide the subframe into position under the car and it installed in about 10 minutes.

Total time spent was probably ~15 hours of work as pressing the bushings out/in is time consuming.

Driving impressions (after getting an alignment): the rear feels solid but not harsh, theres virtually no more noise from the rear (some from the aluminum driveshaft) and the bushings don't make any noise at all. Theres a bit more vibration, especially during decel, but nothing worth complaining about. There probably won't be any more autox this season as its getting quite cold in NY but im certain I will be happy with the results.

On a side note, some of you may not know the Moog S14 front ball joints fit perfectly in the rear A arms, and I used the press for that as well. After pressing the subframe bushings, control arm bushings and ball joints, it's certainly seems worth the price for DIY'ers.

[Kn1ves]

yaay !

[lflkajfj12123]

baaalllin! nice writeup

[unicoladron]

that press is awesome!!! i want one. i have the same exact bushing set for the entire rear for my s13 but i will be doing this in the spring. nice writeup. did you use like a sawzall to cut the metal sleeve out?

[CrimsonRockett]

That's awesome.

I should be doing this soon.

Probably after I pick up another daily so I won't have to rush things.

:D

[statik]

that press is awesome!!! i want one. i have the same exact bushing set for the entire rear for my s13 but i will be doing this in the spring. nice writeup. did you use like a sawzall to cut the metal sleeve out?

yeah, just be careful with a the sawzall as it can cut the sleeves pretty fast, hacksaw is probably safer but slower obviously

[Bushido]

did you reinstall the collar spacers after changing the subframe bushings?

i'm about to dive headfirst into this bushing game, seems like a bitch, but it will be worth it in the end.

[jspaeth]

Damn you I am jealous....

[statik]

did you reinstall the collar spacers after changing the subframe bushings?

i'm about to dive headfirst into this bushing game, seems like a bitch, but it will be worth it in the end.

I had the specialty Z subframe spacers, they are only meant to take up slack in old worn out bushings so they won't even work with these.

[Flybert]

I did my rear lowers and my spindles with a vice with the help of a friend. I used a socket to help line it up straight.

[Clearalbino]

great write up. I should be doing this in the near future :)

[jspaeth]

I am interested in hearing about how much of a difference these make...

I have replaced every single control arm or suspension piece on my car with pillow ball stuff, but nontheless, the spindle bushings and control arm bushings are still stock.

My car is damn stiff, and I don't feel any compliance....I would like to know how much of a difference you guys feel due to the NEW BUSHINGS alone...

PS I already have subframe collars....they are amazing of course

[statik]

I am interested in hearing about how much of a difference these make...

I have replaced every single control arm or suspension piece on my car with pillow ball stuff, but nontheless, the spindle bushings and control arm bushings are still stock.

My car is damn stiff, and I don't feel any compliance....I would like to know how much of a difference you guys feel due to the NEW BUSHINGS alone...

PS I already have subframe collars....they are amazing of course

I can only speak from daily driving right now, they are not too harsh for daily IMO, it feels fine, its stiff but it's not kidney-fucking stiff. PM Nikeboy355 on here, he has full rear and possibly front ES bushings, and he just recently ran button willow again, he can give you an idea of how they feel on the track.

[green_s14]

Nice writeup! I am actually about to do this tuesday. I have my subframe out and some of the bushings out. I have already put in my subframe alluminum bushings. I cant wait to get this done and have the damn subframe back on the car :) I will deff be using your thread to help me out if needed thanks!!

[s14unimog]

Nice!!!! Iknow what you mean about the aluminum drveshaft though... sure does make the rear end louder under decel.

[suaknee]

nice. Great Write up. I gotta get my solid aluminum bushings in.

[bloodangels13]

I did the nismo rear subframe bushings also.... pain in the ass but well worth it.... I wanted to avoid going solid on the bushings since a DD my s13... nismo ones workout perfect

[IStop4NoMan]

yeah, just be careful with a the sawzall as it can cut the sleeves pretty fast, hacksaw is probably safer but slower obviously

ugh, worst 2 hours of my life haha. hack saw takes forever! :eek: I only ended up using the bushings for the spindles in the rear, the subframe collars were a joke and i ended up going with aluminum.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/patrickh616/burningspindle.jpg

[midnightouge]

nice! i have all the bushing installed except for the rear arm's, so you just made it easy for me
+rep

[MELLO*SOS]

Nice thread! And nice press that will definitely come in handy for future projects.

In december I'll be doing a similar project... Picking up a new used s13 subframe, going solid bushings, poly bushings on the uprights (already have brand new ball joints), multi link, z32 ebrake/hubs/calipers. Everything I've read is not making me look forward to getting the old bushings out... Shouldn't be too bad doing it at my fabricator's shop though.... Any other tips/advice? :)

[statik]

Nice thread! And nice press that will definitely come in handy for future projects.

In december I'll be doing a similar project... Picking up a new used s13 subframe, going solid bushings, poly bushings on the uprights (already have brand new ball joints), multi link, z32 ebrake/hubs/calipers. Everything I've read is not making me look forward to getting the old bushings out... Shouldn't be too bad doing it at my fabricator's shop though.... Any other tips/advice? :)

For getting the old bushings out (assuming you have a press) it's really just a matter of thinking of ways to position each bushing in the upright vertically to press them out, the arms are pretty straight forward. The A arms, there is no way around it, you have to burn/cut them out, it sucks but it's gotta be done, you will see why when you look at the bushing.

As long as you have patience and take your time pressing the new bushings in is easier then getting them out as it doesn't take as much force, you could use a vice to hold them in place with a large enough press, and just use a flat head to help coax the large bushing ends in. Patience, time, and a clean work area (for when the greased up bushings fall while trying to press them in). Good luck, and take some pics :bigok:

[MELLO*SOS]

Thank you ^. Yeah I have a press at the shop, torch, sawzall.. Sounds like the arsenal of choice. Will post pics when I do mine, I can't wait ;)

[ManoNegra]

Nice job!
Have done it before on my first hatch and about to start doing it on my new (to me) S14. Only I'm starting with the front. Got the Master Bushing set from ES but it doesn't come with the all the bushings needed...:fawk2: ... good thing I have accumulated random extra poly ones over the years.

[statik]

Nice job!
Have done it before on my first hatch and about to start doing it on my new (to me) S14. Only I'm starting with the front. Got the Master Bushing set from ES but it doesn't come with the all the bushings needed...:fawk2: ... good thing I have accumulated random extra poly ones over the years.

Interesting, whats the part # on the kit for the front that you got? what bushings was it missing? I know some kits are specifically lower/upper only but most shops don't tell you that.

[CoasTek240]

where did you guys get your ES kits?

[kandyflip445]

where did you guys get your ES kits?

Autozone!!! lol

[ManoNegra]

Interesting, whats the part # on the kit for the front that you got? what bushings was it missing? I know some kits are specifically lower/upper only but most shops don't tell you that.

The one from Courtesy Nissan, $127 shipped was the lowest of the bunch - that and Phase2 just completely ignored me. Came with with the TC rod, LCA and front/rear swaybar bushings. Noticed the S13 sets are complete but also more $$$. Nothing for the arms but like I've said I got some Whiteline and Powertrix poly bushings lying around so I'm all good. Also, I've noticed you did aswell, I'm getting Moog balljoints and tie rod ends. Leaving the powerbar for the future.

edit:
7-18103G Energy Suspension Master Bushing Set - 1995 to 1998

[jim1234664]

where do i order from if i want every single bushing in the back including the uprights? (for s13)

[statik]

where did you guys get your ES kits?

I honestly don't remember, i saw a post on zilvia maybe 8 months ago listing it at a stupid low price and i jumped on it, just been sitting on them for awhile.

The one from Courtesy Nissan, $127 shipped was the lowest of the bunch - that and Phase2 just completely ignored me. Came with with the TC rod, LCA and front/rear swaybar bushings. Noticed the S13 sets are complete but also more $$$. Nothing for the arms but like I've said I got some Whiteline and Powertrix poly bushings lying around so I'm all good. Also, I've noticed you did aswell, I'm getting Moog balljoints and tie rod ends. Leaving the powerbar for the future.

edit:
7-18103G Energy Suspension Master Bushing Set - 1995 to 1998

Ah ok you got the master bushing set, I got only the rear set for ~$50 awhile back, I plan on doing the fronts later on during winter when I tear the motor apart.

where do i order from if i want every single bushing in the back including the uprights? (for s13)

Courtesy sells a lot of ES stuff

http://www.courtesyparts.com/energysuspension/240SX.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=7-18106G

[CoasTek240]

ok can i get the maaster bushing set for my s13? or am i forced to buy the Hyper-flex complete package?

[slw240sx]

another way thats pretty easy to get those collars out is the air hammer with a nice sharp chisel bit in it. it will slice them and knock them out. My press is so haggard and dangerous i use my nice vice to press them back in. After doing bushings once or twice its alot faster moving.


the hyper flex is the master set for the s13. its really not all that expensive. i have a special on them in the advertising section. its worth every penny as it makes the car more stable and tight.

[kandyflip445]

I bought the rear suspension kit from Autozone. It only has all the rear bushings!

[statik]

I bought the rear suspension kit from Autozone. It only has all the rear bushings!

Yeah thats what I bought (rear only), didn't know autozone carried this stuff though, pep boys sucks

[unicoladron]

this should definitely be stickied, everyone needs to know this, especially since a large percentage of the s13's are on the brink of antique status. everyone should read this writeup!

[statik]

this should definitely be stickied, everyone needs to know this, especially since a large percentage of the s13's are on the brink of antique status. everyone should read this writeup!

eh, it's not even a very good writeup, more of a "this is what i did for the past few weeks", I just try to take lots of pictures whenever i work on my car, appreciate it though

[ManoNegra]

I bought the rear suspension kit from Autozone. It only has all the rear bushings!

Including sway bar? What did that run you?

[91 240]

if you want them the cheapest, go through summitracing.com just search the part numbers off es's website

[kandyflip445]

Including sway bar? What did that run you?

No sway bar bushings. Only the control arms, so no subframe bushings either. But I think I payed somewhere around $60. :werd:

[ManoNegra]

:aw: WAIT!! Stop the press!
This thread prompted me to do some digging. I found out that Courtesy Nissan sells two ES bushing kits for the S14:

Energy Suspension Master Bushing Set - 1995 to 1998 240SX (http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/energy-suspension-master-bushing-set-1995-1998-240sx-p-227682.html?cPath=3690_5760_5763&) for $115 which is what I bought and doesn't come with the rear arm bushings [Part # 7-18103G]

and

Energy Suspension HYPER-FLEX System Complete Master Bushing Set (http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/energy-suspension-hyper-flex-system-complete-master-bushing-set-1995-1998-240sx-p-228749.html?cPath=3690_5760_5763&) for $99 that comes with the rear arm bushing set(!!). Part # 7-18107G


Just got off the phone with Customer Service and will be returning the Master Set in exchange for the Hyper Flex Set. It's a good thing I only opened the box and didn't tear any of the packaging. :2f2f:

[ManoNegra]

Had the 718107G set shipped to my work and it arrived today(!).

[MELLO*SOS]

Any other brands of solid subframe bushings I should look into? SPL, Bings are about the only two I'm aware of right now.

Also what about the diff bushings, are these part of the ES kit? Are they available as solid press ins?

[statik]

Any other brands of solid subframe bushings I should look into? SPL, Bings are about the only two I'm aware of right now.

Also what about the diff bushings, are these part of the ES kit? Are they available as solid press ins?

the master kit for the s14 might come with the diff bushings, I honestly don't remember where I got mine but im sure they are ES, I bought them by themselves, I got them a few years ago when i did the vlsd. SPL also carries solid diff bushings for the s14.

[ManoNegra]

the master kit for the s14 might come with the diff bushings, I honestly don't remember where I got mine but im sure they are ES, I bought them by themselves, I got them a few years ago when i did the vlsd. SPL also carries solid diff bushings for the s14.

No diff bushing in the ES kit.
From ES site:
HYPER-FLEX SYSTEM Complete Master Bushing Set- w/ 27mm front & 16mm rear sway bar bushings. Includes: Front control arm bushings (2), rear control arm bushings, front strut rod bushings, front and rear sway bar bushings, tie rod end boots.

They sell the diff bushings separate - part # 7.1118

http://energysuspension.com/pages/nis1.html

[JDS Performance]

Cool thread here is my contribution;
http://www.240sxtechdvds.org/subframe_bushing_install_dvd.html

http://www.NIPerformance.org
Nissan-Infinti Performance Parts

[ManoNegra]

Bringing it back since I'm finally getting to putting everything back together. Got the ES bushings pressed in a couple of weeks ago.
Did the rear this weekend.

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/2505/driversiderear2installejd6.jpg

Anyone else had a bitch of a time getting the swaybars back on?
Quick question on the endlink bushings. The instructions included weren't very helpful so this is how I set up the bushings - the 'nippled' ones on the bottom facing each other and the other two on top round sides facing each other:

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/5805/rearswaybarendlinkquestrs3.jpg


I'm curious to see how others set them up. Pics or diagrams and reasoning would be helpful.

Only managed to get the front swaybar - again, a royal PITA - installed but the rest of the fronts should be cake. How did you guys set up the front swaybar endlinks?

[MELLO*SOS]

My whitelines were weird and they didn't give me good instructions either..

BTW got my subframe bushings done over the weekend too. All you guys screwing around with torchs and sawsalls, you are wasting major time! I think we were all done in an hour or so at the shop using a press. Press out the old bushings, then just hammer in the new (frozen) bushings with a little grease.

http://a163.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/25/l_897f7f981f249dcfbd039db7aa421212.jpg

Can't wait to get the z32 stuff & arms bolted up... This weekend hope to get it in.

BTW this is a great thread thanks for making/contributing guys..

[JDS Performance]

My whitelines were weird and they didn't give me good instructions either..

BTW got my subframe bushings done over the weekend too. All you guys screwing around with torchs and sawsalls, you are wasting major time! I think we were all done in an hour or so at the shop using a press. Press out the old bushings, then just hammer in the new (frozen) bushings with a little grease.

http://a163.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/25/l_897f7f981f249dcfbd039db7aa421212.jpg

Can't wait to get the z32 stuff & arms bolted up... This weekend hope to get it in.

BTW this is a great thread thanks for making/contributing guys..

yeah but not everyone has someone with a shop press - plus they could not press out our front s14 sleeves anyways - somtimes you just gotta bite the bullet and cut them out - its not that bad/hard anyways :rawk:

[statik]

yeah but not everyone has someone with a shop press - plus they could not press out our front s14 sleeves anyways - somtimes you just gotta bite the bullet and cut them out - its not that bad/hard anyways :rawk:

Agreed, my press was ~$250 and not nearly big enough to do that job, and most people do the solid bushings which you can just hammer in, so no press is required for those.

Glad to see more people replacing these old bushings :bigok:

[D1GP]

Easiest way to install the bushings is to use a large bolt, 2 washers, and a nut. Use an impact or wrench and you got a mini press :)

I wish I would've bought a press instead of burning and cutting. What a waste of time and pain in the ass.

[tacotacotaco]

I used a 2x4 to put my aluminum bushings in. Just file around to get the burrs out

[JDS Performance]

Easiest way to install the bushings is to use a large bolt, 2 washers, and a nut. Use an impact or wrench and you got a mini press :)

I wish I would've bought a press instead of burning and cutting. What a waste of time and pain in the ass.

you must have missed my link to my sneak peek :bigok:

http://www.240sxtechdvds.org/subframe_bushing_install_dvd.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbUpHjPwLjk

[ManoNegra]

So no one else has the ES swaybar bushings on? These were a pain to install. For future referance: I threaded the bolt in first and then used a jack to push to push up the bushing/sleeve up so that I could thread the nut back on; these method worked the best for me.

[ManoNegra]

Update: got the front done and everything back together. Got an alignment done yesterday at the Sears near my work.

On an aside, the guy at Sears didn't want to do my alignment since the front and back wheels weren't the same (I have stocker SEs on the front and R33s on the back) and didn't want to touch the RUCAs. Stock height too. I'll be staying away from Sears from now on.

Impressions: I had/have some rubbing issues with the rotors and shields that I'm still sorting out and the car is pretty rough on bumpy roads. Need to take a closer look at it this weekend. Overall though, the steering feel is nice, 'heavy' and predictable. Still gotta do solid bushings on the subframe and get better shocks but so far I'm happy. Now I just gotta figure out this rubbing business.

[MELLO*SOS]

For getting the old bushings out (assuming you have a press) it's really just a matter of thinking of ways to position each bushing in the upright vertically to press them out, the arms are pretty straight forward. The A arms, there is no way around it, you have to burn/cut them out, it sucks but it's gotta be done, you will see why when you look at the bushing.

As long as you have patience and take your time pressing the new bushings in is easier then getting them out as it doesn't take as much force, you could use a vice to hold them in place with a large enough press, and just use a flat head to help coax the large bushing ends in. Patience, time, and a clean work area (for when the greased up bushings fall while trying to press them in). Good luck, and take some pics :bigok:

I love this thread, it has some great info for those planning on upgrading their bushings.. I'm on a huge bushing kick these days so here's some more stuff for this thread.. Maybe it'll help the guy doing bushings the first time who actually searches and finds this thread....

Regarding Energy Suspension bushings for the rear uprights..

You can use a ball joint press (toolkit) from Checkers to press out the old rubber bushings and press in the ES poly bushings... Instead of the burn/hacksaw method. It costs a $200 deposit to borrow it, plus you can install some new Sentra LCA ball joints at the same time. I haven't seen this method written in my searching so I thought I'd share... The ball joint c-clamp style press works great if you don't have access to a shop press... I used an electric impact, guess it would work alright with just a ratchet too.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/mello88/M01A0387.jpg

Tips... When you press out the old bushings, try to find a long impact socket with a diameter just slightly smaller than the upright bushing bore diameter. Press this through the bushing bore, so you can press out the rubber bushing and metal sleeve at once and save yourself tons of time hacksawing (feel bad for you guys who do all bushings like that).

Next hurdle, to get the ES bushings in. It's damn near impossible to press the ES bushings in "normally". Take the metal pipes out of your bushings (3 per side) then cut the poly part in half, right through the middle (smallest) diameter. I used a superheated razor blade and vice grips to slice through them. If you're not a pyro then a jigsaw or sawsall or dremel would work nice too....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/mello88/M01A0388.jpg

Now slip in one of the poly halves, just press on it with your finger until it gets cockeyed, then use a flatblade to straighten it out. It should drop it right in, so do the other side.... Get the metal pipe started, then use the C-Clamp to press it in fully. Make sure you have something solid on the other side otherwise you'll just press the other bushing half out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/mello88/M01A0389.jpg

Do the same process on all 6 bushings.... Put all the shit away, take the toolkit back to checkers and get your $200 back!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/mello88/M01A0390.jpg

Congratulate yourself on a job well done with a cup of top of the line wine, carlos rossi!! :bigok:

[bo2o]

dam makes me want to do this.

but i just want to change the uprights, and front and rear lower control arm bushings any recommendations?

thinking of buying the uprights from powertrix and front lower they have from courtesy?

this is for my s13. will the s14 master hyper flex set work?

[ManoNegra]

Next hurdle, to get the ES bushings in. It's damn near impossible to press the ES bushings in "normally". Take the metal pipes out of your bushings (3 per side) then cut the poly part in half, right through the middle (smallest) diameter. I used a superheated razor blade and vice grips to slice through them. If you're not a pyro then a jigsaw or sawsall or dremel would work nice too....

Now slip in one of the poly halves, just press on it with your finger until it gets cockeyed, then use a flatblade to straighten it out. It should drop it right in, so do the other side.... Get the metal pipe started, then use the C-Clamp to press it in fully. Make sure you have something solid on the other side otherwise you'll just press the other bushing half out.



First time I've ever heard of this method. With a press is cake - hardest part is getting the old bushings out, I scribed to the burn-bushing-cut-sleeves school of thought though which is a pita.
Would you mind chiming in with your impressions when you get the car on the road again?

dam makes me want to do this.

but i just want to change the uprights, and front and rear lower control arm bushings any recommendations?


This is covered in the thread.


this is for my s13. will the s14 master hyper flex set work?

ES makes a kit specifically for the S13 aswell.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

I hadn't bother to post anymore on this thread because it appeared to be dead but I guess I'll give a bit of an update.
I'm still having slop in the rear. The old front passanger subframe bushing is just trashed and neither metal collars or a combination of collars and pineapples haven't done the trick.
Thus, I got SPL solid bushings for the subframe and diff coming in and should be installing them soon weather permitting.

[statik]

I'm still having slop in the rear. The old front passanger subframe bushing is just trashed and neither metal collars or a combination of collars and pineapples haven't done the trick.
Thus, I got SPL solid bushings for the subframe and diff coming in and should be installing them soon weather permitting.

Thats exactly why I had to replace mine, bushings were just torn, collars/spacers can't help there =]

[ManoNegra]

UPDATE:
SPL bushings for the diff and subframe arrived last week and went into the car this past weekend. Aside from time consuming, the process was fairly linear: I managed to remove and install the subframe bushings on Sat and finished the diff and rest on Sun.

Ass up in the air:
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/5340/liftedcarzz7.jpg

After a few hours or work - subframe is out:
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/1368/subframeoutxw5.jpg

The main reason for the work:
Driver side front subframe bushing
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/7940/trashedbushing02bw5.jpg

Passanger side, knew it was bad but didn't know just how bad:
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/8531/trashedbushingpassangercg1.jpg

Burning the old bushings out. I tried popping the collars as suggested but that didn't work for me so I used the old sawing technique.
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/6056/burningbushaq9.jpg

Used a tool to push brake pistons and some washers (Pep Boys or Autozone sells them ~$20 iirc) for the subframe bushings.
Bolt was too thick for the diff bushings so I rummaged through my bolt bucket and used what appeared to be a bolt from an alternator or AC unit with a 14mm nut (no pics, too dark by then)

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/1637/presstoolwb7.jpg

Next day all ready to install. Used a wire brush and some shop towels with Liquid Wrench to do a quick clean up:
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/993/readytoinstallpe9.jpg

I did this all by myself without help which I don't recommend doing but shows that it can be done.

Driving Impressions:
Went to grab some food/test the car on Sunday and brought the car to work today.
The rear of the car feels a whole lot more solid and 'planted'. No more wandering around, better grip.
The bad: vibration and noise. Not friendly to bad roads (I drive on the 405).
Overall, a huge improvement but not great for a daily. I've daily driven cars with modded suspension in the past so I'm not complaining.
I still need to thinker some more with the front and alignment.
This is on 17X9 rears and stocker fronts; stock open diff and cruddy oem struts.

[JDS Performance]

looking good - if you have a noise/vibration problems you need a set of our Custom Hard Rubber Inserts! www.NIPerformance.org

[MELLO*SOS]

^ awesome post. I did my subframe this past weekend also! Car feels excellent, alignment is way out though tomorrow that will be fixed. Props to you doing it all yourself!! I dropped the old subframe myself but definitely needed help to get the new one in. Getting it all the way up was a major pain, the front studs kept binding. I ended up getting it done by putting the nuts on and tightening the subframe evenly.

Just need to sort out my z32 ebrake cable problem the passenger side is about 3" too long :(

[JDS Performance]

^ awesome post. I did my subframe this past weekend also! Car feels excellent, alignment is way out though tomorrow that will be fixed. Props to you doing it all yourself!! I dropped the old subframe myself but definitely needed help to get the new one in. Getting it all the way up was a major pain, the front studs kept binding. I ended up getting it done by putting the nuts on and tightening the subframe evenly.

Just need to sort out my z32 ebrake cable problem the passenger side is about 3" too long :(


I would not recommend that as you could possable break or strip out that stud - and trust me its no fun to reaplace those studs!

[ManoNegra]

looking good - if you have a noise/vibration problems you need a set of our Custom Hard Rubber Inserts! www.NIPerformance.org

Inserts? It's all solid now. I still have a ways to go - need to get more rubber and bracing upfront and sort out the struts as well as decide on what diff route I want to go.

^ awesome post. I did my subframe this past weekend also! Car feels excellent, alignment is way out though tomorrow that will be fixed. Props to you doing it all yourself!! I dropped the old subframe myself but definitely needed help to get the new one in. Getting it all the way up was a major pain, the front studs kept binding. I ended up getting it done by putting the nuts on and tightening the subframe evenly.

Just need to sort out my z32 ebrake cable problem the passenger side is about 3" too long :(

I used a pair of emergency jacks to even out the front as I carefully raised the subframe.
What Z32 cables are you using, iirc both should be the same lenght.

[JDS Performance]

Inserts? It's all solid now. I still have a ways to go - need to get more rubber and bracing upfront and sort out the struts as well as decide on what diff route I want to go.



I used a pair of emergency jacks to even out the front as I carefully raised the subframe.
What Z32 cables are you using, iirc both should be the same lenght.

Check them out - they "do not" take away from the performance of the solid bushings. Its a win-win really. www.NIPerformance.org

[MELLO*SOS]

I would not recommend that as you could possable break or strip out that stud - and trust me its no fun to reaplace those studs!

It was a last resort, believe me... Tried everything else we could think of prior to that. The nuts never felt like they'd strip or snap though, I watched the subframe inching up slowly as I tightened them...

[hellaflush]

does anyone know if Z32 stub axles/uprights will mount on s14 rear LCA's?

for those of you whom replaced their balljoints - what did you use?

[unicoladron]

does anyone know if Z32 stub axles/uprights will mount on s14 rear LCA's?

for those of you whom replaced their balljoints - what did you use?

they are bolt on. you will need to use z32 rear coils, but there is another alternative in the below thread. i just searched "z32 upgrights". projectRDM is the z32 uprights master tho.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=169734&highlight=z32+uprights

and for ball joints...you can use OEM ball joints...found at your local auto parts store....hardrace makes after market ball joints, but they call them "rear roll center adjusters".

because when you lower your car, you are throwing everything off balance.

[hellaflush]

crap - disregard that - i have an epic headache and completely forgot id need z32 coils...

wanna do z32 drum brake conversion when i do my bushings/mounts/balljoints

[MELLO*SOS]

Stop reading this thread and get your subframe installed! LOL..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/mello88/M01A0426.jpg

Shit feels great, so solid.

[JDS Performance]

I like the silver subframe - to bad you didnt use our bushings :(