sr20det questions (with pics)

[SR20n00b]

okay 1st off let me start off saying this is my 1st import/boosted car so i dont know shit about it any help i recive will need to be broken down in crayon haha.

ts a 92 240sx with a redtop sr20det. greddy fmic and raptor bov. the car drives fine except one problem if im over 2500 rpm push the clutch in and let the rpms fall it dies.. but will start right back up and run no probs..

few things i want to know if u can tell by the pics.. any imput on the vaccume lines? are they routed right?

also stock turbo ive been running 10-11 psi whats the most i can run?

boost electronics i only have a apexi avcr. my car was broken into and the boost gauge and wideband was stolen :(

also what goes on the nipple thats on my bov in that one pic?

and the lil "knob" on the igniter plate what does that do if u turn it either way?

THANKS in advance!!

here are the pics..

http://photo.ringo.com/241/241607984O642142878.jpg

http://photo.ringo.com/241/241608002O122633816.jpg

http://photo.ringo.com/241/241608027O118236977.jpg

http://photo.ringo.com/241/241608055O574284610.jpg

http://photo.ringo.com/241/241608038O590659555.jpg

http://photo.ringo.com/241/241608042O321105014.jpg





http://photo.ringo.com/241/241608112O697269178.jpg

[S13Leprechaun]

the psi ur runnin? well i read that without a aftermarket fuel pump you shouldnt up the boost at all... so u have like a walbro 255 right? do u know?

[SR20n00b]

i bought the car from somone who lives out of state. i dont know too much about it.. i know its stock turbo it says garret ar 80 i went in the avcr and set setting A to 4lbs and setting B to 11 lbs it runs fine i havent got fuel cut or anything.. so im assuming it has a wal 255 or atleast an aftermarket one better than stock.

[Chrischeezer]

that unit on the igniter chip is the stock boost control solenoid, unplug it.

pull ur vacuum lines off each unit, while the car is running and make sure u have vacum, trace all the lines check for leaks

check your charge piping and couplers for holes and boost leaks.

make sure u have vacume going to your fure pressure regulator

[downshift_sideways]

I agree with chrischeezer.

If you do up the boost, make SURE that your does have a 255 fuel pump.

Better safe than sorry. Pull it out and check the pump. take 15 mins.

[SR20n00b]

okay so unplug the unit on the chip with the knob, ill do that.

but as far as the vac lines.. im not sure what goes where.. to be honest they look kinda ghetto some dont have clamps or anything on them are the supposed to? and on my bov that hose that isnt on there is that hurting anything? how can i check the fuel pump in 15 mins i gotta drop the tank right?

thank you guys for being really helpful with a noob i dont know much... but to help u guys out i can go take pics of anything u need.

[rrobe99999]

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Your vacuum routing is very getto. Way too many tees. I would just yank it all out and redo it W/ all new hoses. You could eliminate the carbon canister too if you still have it. I tried to search, but couldn't find a routing diagram. You might as well go ahead and get the FSM to use. The link for that seems to be down too. If you send me a PM W/ your address, I will email it to you. I'm not sure why your BOV has the extra nipple. It may be a built in tee. Put your finger over it W/ engine running to see if it pulls vacuum. If you cap it off, that may fix your problem.

[unicoladron]

please read the SR ENGINE FAQ on heavythrottle.com. they have a simple but effective vacuum routing diagram among other things you should know if you own an SR20.

www.heavythrottle.com

[rrobe99999]

Here's a link to FSM
http://www.240edge.com/manuals/s14_sr20det.pdf

[attracted]

dude withe avcr theres a smal filter that goes between the "
map sensor" they give u and the vaccum fitting

how the hell can you change your boost with the stock boost solenoid still connected...

try to see if your blowoff valve is leaking at all...

maybe you should just do a pressure test

[unicoladron]

^---- if you l look closely, you will see there are no vacuum lines going to the stock boost control solenoid. so before trying to flame someone, make sure YOU are correct before doing so. also as stated in the OP, he stated he is a n00b to the whole SR20 thing, AND new to turbos, so go easy on him

[SR20n00b]

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Your vacuum routing is very getto. Way too many tees. I would just yank it all out and redo it W/ all new hoses. You could eliminate the carbon canister too if you still have it. I tried to search, but couldn't find a routing diagram. You might as well go ahead and get the FSM to use. The link for that seems to be down too. If you send me a PM W/ your address, I will email it to you. I'm not sure why your BOV has the extra nipple. It may be a built in tee. Put your finger over it W/ engine running to see if it pulls vacuum. If you cap it off, that may fix your problem.

thanks for the info u live close to me i live in pcb.

^---- if you l look closely, you will see there are no vacuum lines going to the stock boost control solenoid. so before trying to flame someone, make sure YOU are correct before doing so. also as stated in the OP, he stated he is a n00b to the whole SR20 thing, AND new to turbos, so go easy on him

thanks for being nice and understanding i knew a few people would flame but glad im actually learning and getting somewhere.

so i need to redo my vac lines.. where do the lines come from that i need to run to everything? and what all do i need to run lines to? only electronic i have it the avcr because my boost gauge and wideband got stolen. so the avcr will need one, what else?

[unicoladron]

if you read the heavythrottle.com SR FAQ you'll see their vacuum routing recommendation, but most VAC lines come from the throttle body. the one large one should go directly to your BOV, no splits. the 2nd one on the throttle body should go to your FPR, do not tee this either. the one on the botom originally went to the charcoal canister (this is for emissionspurposes) which most of us just remove the canister and block off the nipple on the bottom of the TB. not sure what kind of IC piping you have, but there should be a nipple on your cold-side of the IC piping, which should go to your apexi solenoids, and then to your wastegate. if there is no nipple on the cold-site, you can tap into it with a brass barb with threadson it, OR atpturbo.com sells a quick tap that you can tap to a silicone coupler. i will be using one of these for a boost gauge.

but if you do a little searching in this forum, you can find most of this information.

frsport.com
heavythrottle.com
enjukuracing.com
240sxmotoring.com
phase2motortrend.com
google.com

read the SR FAQ section, read everything you possibly can in the archives/stickies.

now give me a posi rep you n00b!! i need to get out of the red!!!

[SR20n00b]

if you read the heavythrottle.com SR FAQ you'll see their vacuum routing recommendation, but most VAC lines come from the throttle body. the one large one should go directly to your BOV, no splits. the 2nd one on the throttle body should go to your FPR, do not tee this either. the one on the botom originally went to the charcoal canister (this is for emissionspurposes) which most of us just remove the canister and block off the nipple on the bottom of the TB. not sure what kind of IC piping you have, but there should be a nipple on your cold-side of the IC piping, which should go to your apexi solenoids, and then to your wastegate. if there is no nipple on the cold-site, you can tap into it with a brass barb with threadson it, OR atpturbo.com sells a quick tap that you can tap to a silicone coupler. i will be using one of these for a boost gauge.

but if you do a little searching in this forum, you can find most of this information.

frsport.com
heavythrottle.com
enjukuracing.com
240sxmotoring.com
phase2motortrend.com
google.com

read the SR FAQ section, read everything you possibly can in the archives/stickies.

now give me a posi rep you n00b!! i need to get out of the red!!!

i gave u + rep on the post u made b4 this one wont let me give u anymore.

Okay so i went out and took pics to help show u guys what im asking, so far i unplugged the electric clip to the knob on the igniter chip.

In this pic below that is my "fat" vac line it's ran out into a T.
http://photo.ringo.com/242/242133576O977643254.jpg

now in this pic.. is this my "3rd" vac line on the bottom of the TB? because their is 1 fat and one skinny on the top if this isnt it i cant find the 3rd i also think this is T'd to the thing on the end of the injector rail? the fpr maybe?
http://photo.ringo.com/242/242133561O418502946.jpg

this pic.. my "fat hose" coming out to the T where the black side goes to my BOV
http://photo.ringo.com/242/242133563O783976762.jpg

in this one.. shows where the pink vac goes to (my avcr thing)
http://photo.ringo.com/242/242133607O731799563.jpg

last this goes from my avcr thing to whatever it is that its on..
http://photo.ringo.com/242/242133608O340525805.jpg

and lastly my MAF wire runs to my avcr

So now u know where my vac lines are ran can i get any imput? i know i need to not T anything off much. but so far i know i need to run the "fat" vac to my BOV no T at all, the other skinny should run to what? also the 3rd small one?? just leave the avcr box going down to the one thing alone?

[used240sxparts]

where in florida are you?

[unicoladron]

the fat TB directly to BOV, the other skinny one on top of the TB goes to your FPR, lastly you should tap into your cold side ( i guess you can tap into the hot side if you want) with a brass fitting with barbs on one end so you ca connect a VAC hose to it. this will be your your supply for your boost controller solenoid and for your wastegate. that's the thing connected to the turbo, this allows X amount of air to flow past the turbine. if you have too much air flowing through the turbine, it will boost to infinity which can case catastrophic damage to your engine and blow it up. so your avcr adjusts the wastegate to either let more boost get "wasted" or more boost be used to spin the turbine.

[SR20n00b]

where in florida are you?

panhandle panama city

[SR20n00b]

the fat TB directly to BOV, the other skinny one on top of the TB goes to your FPR, lastly you should tap into your cold side ( i guess you can tap into the hot side if you want) with a brass fitting with barbs on one end so you ca connect a VAC hose to it. this will be your your supply for your boost controller solenoid and for your wastegate. that's the thing connected to the turbo, this allows X amount of air to flow past the turbine. if you have too much air flowing through the turbine, it will boost to infinity which can case catastrophic damage to your engine and blow it up. so your avcr adjusts the wastegate to either let more boost get "wasted" or more boost be used to spin the turbine.

so whats the small line on the bottom of the TB?

everything sounds good with this but off top of my head i dont think my IC piping has anything to run a vac off of, and doubt my abilities in making one that will work... i dont wanna fk anything up..

[unicoladron]

get rid of that gay ass pink vac line, and get rid of the crusty ass old rubber vac lines too. get yourself some nice silicone vacuum line and zip tie them shits so they hold tight. get rid of all those tees asap!!

i also never commented on why your bov has 2 nipples. maybe you can find what model you have and check out blitz's website. i've seen wastegates with 2 nipples, but not bov's.

anyone else: does a bov with 2 nipples mean it's a dual valve bov?

[JDMwannaBE]

to check your fuel pump, pull up the carpet in the trunk. theres a light greenish access panel with some wires running to it. that your fuel pump. remove the cover then remove the large plastic black thing that threads onto the tank. th at holds the fuel pump assembly in place. but before you can remove that unplug all the lines and remember where they go. reach down in the fuel tank and remove the fuel pump. this may take a few but just be patient it'll come out. but pay attention to how it comes out. if it is an aftermarket pump especially a walbro, it will look really small compared to stock fuel pumps.

[unicoladron]

so whats the small line on the bottom of the TB?

everything sounds good with this but off top of my head i dont think my IC piping has anything to run a vac off of, and doubt my abilities in making one that will work... i dont wanna fk anything up..

lol hmm maybe you can find some type of how to on tapping for a boost source, but here's the simplest way to do it, tap into a coupler:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-010&Category_Code=BCS

the one on the bottom originally went to your charcoal canister, but i'm not sure whether or not you can use it for anything else so i can't answer that. i know i blocked it off, and alot of people commonly block it off.

[unicoladron]

to check your fuel pump, pull up the carpet in the trunk. theres a light greenish access panel with some wires running to it. that your fuel pump. remove the cover then remove the large plastic black thing that threads onto the tank. th at holds the fuel pump assembly in place. but before you can remove that unplug all the lines and remember where they go. reach down in the fuel tank and remove the fuel pump. this may take a few but just be patient it'll come out. but pay attention to how it comes out. if it is an aftermarket pump especially a walbro, it will look really small compared to stock fuel pumps.

wrong thread buckaroo.

[SR20n00b]

so whats the small line on the bottom of the TB?

everything sounds good with this but off top of my head i dont think my IC piping has anything to run a vac off of, and doubt my abilities in making one that will work... i dont wanna fk anything up..

still need this answered ^^^

get rid of that gay ass pink vac line, and get rid of the crusty ass old rubber vac lines too. get yourself some nice silicone vacuum line and zip tie them shits so they hold tight. get rid of all those tees asap!!

i also never commented on why your bov has 2 nipples. maybe you can find what model you have and check out blitz's website. i've seen wastegates with 2 nipples, but not bov's.

anyone else: does a bov with 2 nipples mean it's a dual valve bov?

it's a turbonetics raptor

[unicoladron]

i answered it!!! look above your post

[JDMwannaBE]

wrong thread buckaroo.

not wrong thread. if you'd read the entire thread you would have known that he also asked how to check to see if he had an aftermarket fuel pump. he thought you had to drop the tank so i explained. thanks for the heads up though.

[SR20n00b]

lol hmm maybe you can find some type of how to on tapping for a boost source, but here's the simplest way to do it, tap into a coupler:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-010&Category_Code=BCS

the one on the bottom originally went to your charcoal canister, but i'm not sure whether or not you can use it for anything else so i can't answer that. i know i blocked it off, and alot of people commonly block it off.

that would be badass if it would work for the avcr noid

[unicoladron]

^---nah, it wouldn't work right. you can try it and it'll probably limp along gayly but here's the deal. the reason engine builders tap into the turbine housing is to get as close to the actual boost level as possible. the boost reading is not as accurate by the throttle body. the best place to connect your wastegate (if not using boost control) or your boost control boost source is directly on the compressor housing OR now that atp has the quick tap, so you can tap into the compressor coupler.

[JDMwannaBE]

i would check that fuel pump if its not a 255 or better your gonna need to replace it.

[DALAZ_68]

how can i check the fuel pump in 15 mins i gotta drop the tank right?

.



LOL ! nah man

this is an S13 right?

if so wether u have a coupe or hatch...open the trunk/hatch.... slid the carpet on the right side to the left and u have a panel there...instant access to ur pump...wut do u think this is , an american car, lol JKJK

when u see the panel disconnect the connector sticking out...

remove the top cover with either socket or philips head
theres ur second cover to the actual pump...


ull see ur fuel and return fuel lines.. disconnect and remember how they go

use a philips or socket ot remove the small screws... lift the cover and ur pump asssmbly dangle from it, carefull though when u lift it, lift slowly, theres a lil plastic container that floats on an arm (its what reads ur gass level in the tank) and take a look at ur pump...i dont know how the walboro (sp) looks like so google it, or maybe someone will post pic) stock one, well its a small cylinder with 2 connectors up top, and each end is a black top

ohh and carefull with ur gasket between the second cover and tank... dont wanna damage it

GL

[unicoladron]

^--good info, plus that large o-ring will most l ikely not fit, you can either purchase a new one from the stealership or cut the exact right amount off so it falls into the o-ring channel perfectly.

[JDMwannaBE]

^------------i just finished saying all that....lol.

[SR20n00b]

good info guys.. it is a s13 coupe.

im just not confident in my abilities in doing it, i guess ill look at my pump and take a pic of it.. just think ill damage the gas float or the gasket... ive always had problems with over tqing gaskets...

same with the coupler tap i think some how id get it to leak

unno i guess i could pay someone to tap it for me.

[unicoladron]

dude, if you're honestly afraid to do all this easy stuff, i don't think this is the right car for you. these are old cars, so you're bound to have other problems in the future. if you don't like to work on cars buy a new one lol

[DALAZ_68]

good info guys.. it is a s13 coupe.

im just not confident in my abilities in doing it, i guess ill look at my pump and take a pic of it.. just think ill damage the gas float or the gasket... ive always had problems with over tqing gaskets...

same with the coupler tap i think some how id get it to leak

unno i guess i could pay someone to tap it for me.
bro...
if an idiot like me who had 0 and i mean 0 prior knowledge of cars can do this


CMOOOONN!!!!!

its not hard at all....the only thing is the gasket..and even then just cut it if it expands, tape ends together with electric tape and set the bitch back in like i did...

my theory with my POS is w/e works is how to do it rite...lol

[SR20n00b]

dude, if you're honestly afraid to do all this easy stuff, i don't think this is the right car for you. these are old cars, so you're bound to have other problems in the future. if you don't like to work on cars buy a new one lol

man b4 this i built minitrucks this is completely different, at 1st i thought u were cool u helped me out tons so far and i thank you for that but telling me to get a diff car is kinda gay. I mean my car runs fine as it sits its on 11 psi no boost leaks and hauls ass (atleast to me, being my 1st boosted car dunno really what fast is) it keeps up and beats my friends hatch sr20det. ive had it tach'd out and kept going.. the only prob i have is pushing the clutch in at high rpms and it dieing. but i just brake to 1 grand then push it in im fine, i think i could get used to that before i start fking with crap and risking the chance of messing something up.

[DALAZ_68]

[quote=SR20n00b;1652951]man b4 this i built minitrucks quote]


0 prior knowledge right her bro...changing the pump in this chassis...just looking at it...is probably the easiest thing to do on this f*cking car...lol

even dropping a DOHC KA into a SOHC chassis isnt as easy as people say, experience goes a long mind u, but nonetheless u gotta start somewhere

[unicoladron]

dude i'm cool and like giving advice to n00bs cuz i'm only like one step above a noob. you shouldn't be afraid to work on your own car tho. look at it this way: If you do break something, it gives you an excuse to by a shiny new part OR a bigger better more powerful part!!

but these cars are like most cars in general. the engine has basically all the same components as any other engine. if you think this shit is difficult, try figuiring out the vacuum routing on a v-dub lol.

not flaming, just saying if you do break something, that is why this forum is here, just make sure you search before asking something or you will get flamed.

[DALAZ_68]

not flaming, just saying if you do break something, that is why this forum is here, just make sure you search before asking something or you will get flamed.


that should be a golden rule in every forum...

[SR20n00b]

http://photo.ringo.com/241/241607984O642142878.jpg



http://photo.ringo.com/241/241608027O118236977.jpg


Okay in the two pics above i have a new question..

Since im redoing my vac lines i capped the extra nipple on the bov and the vac tube for the charcoal canister and ran the skinny vac directly to the FPR.

Now as far as the fat one it MUST have atleast ONE T for right now because i need it for the BOV and the other to my AVCR noid.

BUT the one running to my BOV has been T'd one more time going to that black thing in the 2nd pic (pink vac line) but the black thing also has an electric plug on the other side that runs through my firewall..

now for the question..

DO I NEED THE VAC LINE FOR THE LIL BLACK THING!?

because if not im gonna delete that T so i have a vac straight to the BOV and on the other side of the T to my avcr noid...

[unicoladron]

the BOV vac line should not have any tees in it. large vac line from TB goes directly to the BOV, no tees whatsoever. like i've said previously, you should have a nipple on yor cold side of the IC piping to provide a vacuum/boost source to your AVCR solednoid AND your wastegate.

can you take two separate pics of the two black things you see. it sounds like there's two solenoids, is this because the AVCR has two solenoids for what i'm guessing is variable boost stages?

i don't recommend continuing anything until you have your vacuum lines routed as stated above.

[SR20n00b]

the BOV vac line should not have any tees in it. large vac line from TB goes directly to the BOV, no tees whatsoever. like i've said previously, you should have a nipple on yor cold side of the IC piping to provide a vacuum/boost source to your AVCR solednoid AND your wastegate.

can you take two separate pics of the two black things you see. it sounds like there's two solenoids, is this because the AVCR has two solenoids for what i'm guessing is variable boost stages?

i don't recommend continuing anything until you have your vacuum lines routed as stated above.

i understand this, but for the time being i can not run the fat str8 to the bov. i have no nipple on the coldside.. in a bit ill take full eng pics so u can see all my IC piping ect...

what i need to know right now is what that lil black thing is and if i NEED that vac line on it.

[SR20n00b]

here ya go... when i 1st got the car so its dirty.

http://photo.ringo.com/243/243068749O020031856.jpg

[unicoladron]

ok, i know what what the one mounted on the front strut tower is, but i'm not too familiar with AVCR's, does apexi have documentation on what is included with their ebc? try searching for other people's AVCR's setups or apexi's website or google. i'm pretty sure i've seen apexi AVC-R routing diagrams before.

[SR20n00b]

still need to know if the lil black connector MUST have a vac line..

[g6civcx]

Okay, let's start over. I suggest getting the car to run on stock boost before you start messing with a boost controller.

The throttle body has 3 ports:

fat one on top - connect this straight to the BOV. nothing else.

skinny one on top - connect this to the FPR and a boost gauge if you have one.

skinny one on bottom - disconnect and plug.

Connect the wastegate (cylinder looking thing on the exhaust manifold) straight to the cold pipe.

Anything that is left open after doing this should be unplugged and capped, for now.

Basically this knocks out your stock boost solenoid, EVAP charcoal canister, and any aftermarket boost controller you have. I don't see the EVAP canister being connected to anything so you may be ok.

Try all this and see if it helps anything.


The stalling problem is due to your BOV and the boost controller. The ECU is expecting a certain amount of air but that air is being dumped into the air. This causes stalling. This problem gets worse with higher boost. You need to recirculate your BOV instead of dumping it into the air.

Come back and let us know if you still have problems.