Cheap Battery Relocation Setup!

[Sileighty_85]

I've wanting to do a relocation to the trunk but didnt wanna pay 150+ for a box/kit or whatever it came with. So heres a cost Effective way for those who want to relocate their battery to the trunk.

Items
Snap On Marine Battery Box - Walmart $15
4 Gauge wire - Lowes 12ft for $25 (Maybe 12 1/2 ft to be safe)
Scosche Mini Max Fuse box - Walmart $10
Higher AMP Mini Max Fuse $2
Scosche Battery Terminal - Walmart $10
Neg. Battery Cable Autozone..ect. $10
(Prices May Vary)

Unfortunaly I didnt have a camera at the time
So i'll do this the best I can to explain it.

Step 1
Remove Battery Duh!
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/DSC02334.jpg

For the Pos cable you got that big ass wire for the car then a few white ones, I connected my Main Cable to the right side of the two insert into the fuse box. The white wires + any acessories you use into the left side. Then the Cable from the Battery plugs into the top right of the box.

For the SR I used an 80AMP for the Main Cable and a 30AMP for the accessories.
I belive for the KA you will need a higher AMP fuse for the Main Cable, Due to higher Amperge Draw from the KA Starter
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1153.jpg

Then feed the the Battery Cable trough the ECU Grommet through the Fire wall
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1154.jpg

Then run the Cable along the floor
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1162.jpg

Through the interior Chassis rail just as a precaution wrap the section that runs under the rail with chaff wrap to avoid being rubbed through.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1163.jpg

Then feed it up under the rear seats (make sure nothing will pinch the cable to avoid unwanted grounding)
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1164.jpg

Then underneath the rear interoir pannels (For those of you who still have them)

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1161.jpg

For the Neg Gound I found the Shock Tower is most effective

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1159.jpg

Here where the Scosche Terminal comes into play
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1158.jpg

Then Bam! Your Done
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1156.jpg

[i need tires]

i did the same thing! i dont get why they sell those kits for soo much! looks good man!

[R5SpdAttitude]

I am going to have to do that

[aznpoopy]

you need a high amp fuse or circuit breaker on the pos as close to the battery as possible. your fuse location does not protect against shorts along the length of the cable through the chassis

additionally, if any of you are not using a sealed battery, add a liner along the edge of the box lid to make it air tight. drill a hole in the box and add a plastic hose, with some sealant around the hose, and run it to some place where the box can vent outside the car.

most racing tech inspection will require a metal battery tie down, so add that in too. use nuts with the integrated liner to make sure the holes you drill through the chassis/battery box for the tie down are airtight as well.

[S14DB]

You should have used 2 or 0 gauge wire.

[statik]

good job, but seriously 3A racing vacuum lines? seriously?

[Sileighty_85]

You should have used 2 or 0 gauge wire.

Noway its way too thick My buddy already tried it

[Sileighty_85]

good job, but seriously 3A racing vacuum lines? seriously?

ROTFL Bad Idea on that one, I already changed those out. they really sucked Kept getting Boost Spikes

[racepar1]

2 guage is too thich for what? I relocated my battery to the pass side rear seat and I run a 2 guage cable.

[Sileighty_85]

2 guage is too thich for what? I relocated my battery to the pass side rear seat and I run a 2 guage cable.

I used Solid Core (the thick strands) hard to bend and contour
Thats all they had -o-

[racepar1]

My car is fuckin gutted like shit so I didn't have that problem. I just ran it down thw trans hump under what's left of the center console.

[Sir]

welding cable works better and its super easy to bend.
Than again this thread is called "CHEAP" so I guess you can substitue the crap parts for better quality and end up with better result.

[ecuastyle84]

for $10 bucks more you could of got a wesco battery which fits perfectly where the battery tray is and still fit the piping for a front mount...thats how i have it on my car but your setup is cheap and simple...looks good

[NemeGuero]

Noway its way too thick My buddy already tried it

Well your buddy is an idiot. I'm using 2 gage.

4 is a bad idea.

[racepar1]

I just realized that this guy added fuses, WHY? I ran my positive cable directly to the starter, the 2 power wires that attached to the batt cable end and went into the fusebox I ran to the starter as well, and the charge wire for the alternator that goes through the 75 amp maxi fuse I ran all the way back to the battery (although I probably could have just run that to the starter as well). Those additional fuses and holder are not necessary. Also I noticed that he did not run any additional grounds from the engine or intake manifold to the chasis, you should run additional grounds.

[S14DB]

Noway its way too thick My buddy already tried it

How the fuck can wire be too thick? Most relocation kits come with 2 or 0. Starters suck a lot of amps.

[projekt_s13]

I just realized that this guy added fuses, WHY? I ran my positive cable directly to the starter, the 2 power wires that attached to the batt cable end and went into the fusebox I ran to the starter as well, and the charge wire for the alternator that goes through the 75 amp maxi fuse I ran all the way back to the battery (although I probably could have just run that to the starter as well). Those additional fuses and holder are not necessary. Also I noticed that he did not run any additional grounds from the engine or intake manifold to the chasis, you should run additional grounds.

lol wtf are you taking about? You need fuses or your car could BURN to the ground. His weren't placed properly but its better then no fuse at all.

[racepar1]

Ya, but the stock fusebox HAS fuses. Run your wiring throught the stock fusebox and you don't need to add any extras. The only cable that is not fused is the main power to the starter and that is not fused from the FACTORY.

[babowc]

$72.. not bad.
this gives full cranking power versus reduced.
especially in colder weather.

[Skullavera]

Looks like a decent setup. I used 2 gauge as well for both positive and negative. I grounded the battery in the back and also ran it to the engine bay, to my grounding distributor block.

[Dousan_PG]

hzahah

this is the worst thread how to ever
WOW

[Skullavera]

Ya, but the stock fusebox HAS fuses. Run your wiring throught the stock fusebox and you don't need to add any extras. The only cable that is not fused is the main power to the starter and that is not fused from the FACTORY.

Dude seriously? Of course the main power cable isn't fused because it's designed to go straight to your starter and is very short compared to the long ass 12ft+ of cable you will be running when you relocate your battery. The reason for the fuse is for protection just in case the cable shorts out anywhere along the way from the battery in your trunk to the engine bay.

[Sileighty_85]

Well your buddy is an idiot. I'm using 2 gage.

4 is a bad idea.

Ive had it in there for a few months no problems

[racepar1]

My battery isn't in the trunk it is in the passenger rear seat, and my cable isn't 12 ft long it is about 7, and my cable isn't hiding under the carpet and crap cuz I don't have any, And my cable won't short for a VEEEEEEERRRRRRYYYYYYYY long time because I insulated it with heater hose everywhere it rubs and it is held down with insulated clamps.

[Skullavera]

My battery isn't in the trunk it is in the passenger rear seat, and my cable isn't 12 ft long it is about 7, and my cable isn't hiding under the carpet and crap cuz I don't have any, And my cable won't short for a VEEEEEEERRRRRRYYYYYYYY long time because I insulated it with heater hose everywhere it rubs and it is held down with insulated clamps. So yes, I am serious,:fawk: kiss my ass.

WTF is your problem? I did not flame you or anything just gave info.

[racepar1]

WTF is your problem? I did not flame you or anything just gave info.

Fuck you.

The kiss my ass part wasn't actually directed towards you skull.

[Sileighty_85]

The reason I have the fuses in the front is cuz I dont have a giant ass butt connector to splice the Starter Cable to the New Battery Cable and it was hot as hell out side So i didnt feel like undoing my wiring to run it all the way to the stater. Ive havent had any issues with this setup. Full Amprege cranking power no dimming of lights, or charging problems

[Skullavera]

Well it seemed as though it was. Post edited and maybe with the info you posted after the fact I wouldn't have posted what I did. Sooooo..........

I guess in your situation it would be very well protected against shorts.

[racepar1]

If you are gunna run a fuse though it should be by the battery. If that cable shorts on the battery side of that fuse you are gunna melt down your battery at the least and most likely your car as well.

[racepar1]

Well it seemed as though it was. Post edited and maybe with the info you posted after the fact I wouldn't have posted what I did. Sooooo..........

I guess in your situation it would be very well protected against shorts.


No problem I shoulda been more specific about that. Oh well.

[Tenchuu]

thicker wire = more amps. multi strand wire = more aps. so a thin single strand may work fine for a while, but if it gets too much of a current draw for too long it can easily act as a fuse itself and melt the wire in 1/2 without ever blowing the fuse. and also it can get boiling hot and melt stuff. 4 is a bad idea for sure. you get the starter, heater, headlights, and a stereo going all at once, you may find out the hard way why we are giving you this advice. there is no such thing as too big a wire. never such a thing. only too small. anyone who tells you different needs to take a basic electronics class.

Basic analogy: think of the wire as a pipe, it can only flow so much. you get a bigger pipe, it will flow more.

you could use wire the size of your arm and be fine, but if you used speaker wire it would melt in 1/2 a second.

[Sileighty_85]

thicker wire = more amps. multi strand wire = more aps. so a thin single strand may work fine for a while, but if it gets too much of a current draw for too long it can easily act as a fuse itself and melt the wire in 1/2 without ever blowing the fuse. and also it can get boiling hot and melt stuff. 4 is a bad idea for sure. you get the starter, heater, headlights, and a stereo going all at once, you may find out the hard way why we are giving you this advice. there is no such thing as too big a wire. never such a thing. only too small. anyone who tells you different needs to take a basic electronics class.

Basic analogy: think of the wire as a pipe, it can only flow so much. you get a bigger pipe, it will flow more.

you could use wire the size of your arm and be fine, but if you used speaker wire it would melt in 1/2 a second.

Im unsure of the size it might be 2 gauge I went to lowes and scrolled their Roll-a-dex thing Everything was out of place I scrolled until I saw the same size as a the battery Cable.

Im aware of wire sizing useage. Im maybe not able to tell what size it is but I can look and tell if it is the proper sizing or not. I already explained about why the fuse was in the front I got an extra Single Maxi Fuse holder so maybe I'll put one closer to the Batt.

[aznpoopy]

not maybe
do it now

you got nothing protecting against shorts on the positive battery cable along the length of the chassis

[Tenchuu]

not maybe
do it now

you got nothing protecting against shorts on the positive battery cable along the length of the chassis

werd. we are trying to help you prevent a possible horrific electrical problem.

[brokeAs240sx]

Im unsure of the size it might be 2 gauge I went to lowes and scrolled their Roll-a-dex thing Everything was out of place I scrolled until I saw the same size as a the battery Cable.

Im aware of wire sizing useage. Im maybe not able to tell what size it is but I can look and tell if it is the proper sizing or not. I already explained about why the fuse was in the front I got an extra Single Maxi Fuse holder so maybe I'll put one closer to the Batt.

You're forgetting you have to increase size when you increase distance. The gauge of the battery cable is too small for when you want to go from front of car -> back. No one's saying it won't work, but it is no where near optimal/efficient/good for long term/etc.

Having another fuse near the battery doesn't hurt anything. Safety first, right?

Here's my install w/ 0 gauge (don't mind all the accessory wires in the back, was in the middle of another install, haha): DIY Battery Relocation S13 Coupe (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=131029)

[Sileighty_85]

You're forgetting you have to increase size when you increase distance. The gauge of the battery cable is too small for when you want to go from front of car -> back. No one's saying it won't work, but it is no where near optimal/efficient/good for long term/etc.

Having another fuse near the battery doesn't hurt anything. Safety first, right?

Here's my install w/ 0 gauge (don't mind all the accessory wires in the back, was in the middle of another install, haha): DIY Battery Relocation S13 Coupe (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=131029)

Well Everything runs as if it was in the front fo the car still. I used My Fluke Volt meter on it. Im getting 14 volts, Amps are great Its cold here and I have a sound system and fully functional Silvia Headlights (Working fog lights)
I drive with those suckers on all day/night with regular headlights on and heater cranked up at night. No problems starting Cranks right up.
I'll work on my car with the radio going for hours and it still cranks up no problem

[ixfxi]

Fucking IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIDIOTS

-------------------------

if you print this page, i advise to print this section, and trash everything above and below it, thank you

-------------------------

Facts:
- Stranded or solid wire, makes no fucking difference. Gauge is gauge, one does not flow MORE than the other. The difference is that the stranded wire is designed for uses where the cable must flex. Solid wire WILL break easier than stranded, which is designed and intended to flex.

- Increasing your distance REQUIRES you to UP the thickness of your wiring, in other words: get lower gauge wiring, morons. I recall using 2 gauge wiring, but it really varies and depends on one thing: AMPERAGE DRAW. If your electrical system draws a lot, you'll need sufficient gauge wiring. USE AN AMMETER TO TEST YOUR AMPERAGE DRAW, FUCKNUTS. GO BUY SOME TOOLS DAMNIT.

- FUSES. BREAKERS. Whatever the FUCK you need to do, go out and buy them. I prefer breakers. ANYTHING to prevent a fire. Fuse/Breaker should be located as CLOSE to the power source as possible, meaning - directly in front of the battery, or within 1 foot.

- Ground: Its equally as important as power. Ground as close to the battery as possible, anywhere that has a solid location. SHOCK TOWER isnt a bad or good idea, but I am sure you can make a DEDICATED connection that wont accidentally get removed during maintenance. Fucking-a, did you have a hard time finding a bolt? "Oh, I'll just use the rear shock tower! awesome"

- Additional ground: It wont hurt to run a 8ga or so wire to the front of the car and ground it to the firewall, also a small 1 foot connection from the firewall to the motor. A good ground never hurts.

- Junction: You might as well create a junction box in the front engine bay so that you can tap additional power for accessories like electric fans or any other devices you install in the future. Make sure everything that connects to that junction is fused and SECURED to the car (no zip ties, assholes).

fucking shit, this community is making me more and more depressed every day that I read on here. I feel like I accidentally slipped and ended up in the AE86 Corolla forums - a bunch of cheap fucking retards all giving bad advice.

I hate you all.

[statik]

^^ haha, ahh that made my day

[Sileighty_85]

Fucking IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIDIOTS

-------------------------

if you print this page, i advise to print this section, and trash everything above and below it, thank you

-------------------------

[quote]
Facts:
- Stranded or solid wire, makes no fucking difference. Gauge is gauge, one does not flow MORE than the other. The difference is that the stranded wire is designed for uses where the cable must flex. Solid wire WILL break easier than stranded, which is designed and intended to flex.


I didnt say anything about soild core flowing better than stranded.
Solid Core is all I had to work with.
I'd like to have had stranded so I could have ran it better.


- Increasing your distance REQUIRES you to UP the thickness of your wiring, in other words: get lower gauge wiring, morons. I recall using 2 gauge wiring, but it really varies and depends on one thing: AMPERAGE DRAW. If your electrical system draws a lot, you'll need sufficient gauge wiring. USE AN AMMETER TO TEST YOUR AMPERAGE DRAW, FUCKNUTS. GO BUY SOME TOOLS DAMNIT.


Right which is why I chose my gague wiring cuz the SR starter dosent pull that much AMP's. Even still the Engine gonna pullin more power from the ALT than the Batt. Except for starting

- Ground: Its equally as important as power. Ground as close to the battery as possible, anywhere that has a solid location. SHOCK TOWER isnt a bad or good idea, but I am sure you can make a DEDICATED connection that wont accidentally get removed during maintenance. Fucking-a, did you have a hard time finding a bolt? "Oh, I'll just use the rear shock tower! awesome"

Theres nothing wrong with using the rear shock tower, works just as well as putting a bolt in any other part of the chassis.

- Additional ground: It wont hurt to run a 8ga or so wire to the front of the car and ground it to the firewall, also a small 1 foot connection from the firewall to the motor. A good ground never hurts.

If you looks at my engine Pic you'll see im running a Grounding Kit in the Engine bay.


- Junction: You might as well create a junction box in the front engine bay so that you can tap additional power for accessories like electric fans or any other devices you install in the future. Make sure everything that connects to that junction is fused and SECURED to the car (no zip ties, assholes).


Thats what the fuse box is for.

[NemeGuero]

Over drawing by using the fuse box isn't the best idea either.


ixfxi: What about ground loops when running the 8 gage to the front?

[ixfxi]

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1156.jpg

"If you looks at my engine Pic you'll see im running a Grounding Kit in the Engine bay."

what I see, it a bunch of fucking mess.. thats what i see.

dont GUESS with electrical connections, go buy the proper tools, measure the current draw and select the appropriate sized wiring.

the way you are doing things, is just a mess. you really shouldnt be working on your own electrical, let alone redesigning the system.

[blu808]

Did your car burn down yet?

[Sileighty_85]

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1156.jpg

"If you looks at my engine Pic you'll see im running a Grounding Kit in the Engine bay."

what I see, it a bunch of fucking mess.. thats what i see.

dont GUESS with electrical connections, go buy the proper tools, measure the current draw and select the appropriate sized wiring.

the way you are doing things, is just a mess. you really shouldnt be working on your own electrical, let alone redesigning the system.

It maybe a fuckin mess but im pretty sure this engine will stomp a hole in your ass.
Sorry it not all show no go, I care more about how it runs than how it looks.
Lookin nice dont make your shit work or run better


I know what the fuck im doing.
I Broke down this very engine myself down to the crank shaft and shipped it home piece by piece from Japan while i was living there for two years
and Working on these Engines everyday.

Compared to what looks like your location of Dickbeaterville.
To where the only thing you probably work is other guys "Junk"

So while you were spanking it to the TAS Models in a Super Street Mag I was partyin there with those type of girls.

And rebuilt it MYSELF from the Crank up with all new performance parts.
Heres a little bit What I'VE done for now

Cylinders Bored and Honed .20
Crankshaft Polished and Balanced
Pulsar GTI-R Main Crank Bolts
Nismo Main Crank Bearings
Tomei Micro-Finished Con-Rod Bearings
Eagle H Con-Rods
Wiseco Pistons
Power Enterprise 1.5 mil Metal H/G
ARP Head Studs
Brian Crower Valve Springs with Titanium Retainers
New Oil Pump
New Water Pump
New Timing Chain & Guides
New Front and Rear Oil Seals
Nismo Engine & Tranny Mounts
Billion Radiator Hoses
Peak Performance Tubular Manifold
HKS Intake Filter
S-14 T-28BB Turbo
Unknown Turbo Dump Pipe
Circuit Sport Oil Catch Can
Enjuku Racing BMC Heat Shield
Circuit Sport Steel Braided Turbo Lines
HKS W/G Actuator
Greddy Type-R BOV
Greddy Manual Boost Controller
Greddy Front Mount Intercooler
RSR Turbo Back Exhaust
SARD High Flow Cat
OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch
Z32 Slave Cylinder
Electric Fans
C’s Short Shifter
Kaaza 2Way LSD

[Skullavera]

IXFXI,

Quick question for you. You stated that you can run an 8ga. ground to the front, aside from grounding it as close to the battery as possible, which is what I did. Are there any problems with running a larger gauge like 2ga? I used 2ga for both positive and negative terminals. The ground runs to a ground distributor block which in turn goes to the alternator, head and intake mani as well as the firewall. Is 2ga fine? Thanks.

[ixfxi]

It maybe a fuckin mess but im pretty sure this engine will stomp a hole in your ass.

I know what the fuck im doing.

And rebuilt it MYSELF from the Crank up with all new performance parts.
Heres a little bit What I'VE done for now

Cylinders Bored and Honed .20
blah blah blah long list of shit that has nothing to do with electrical
blah blah blah makes me feel like i have a bigger penis than you


Why are you so confident that you can stomp a hole in my ass? You dont know me, you dont know what kind of cars i have, and you're assuming that I care to even compare with your rolling laundry list of unstable modifications. If your car is anything like your wiring, its a mess.

[ixfxi]

IXFXI,

Quick question for you. You stated that you can run an 8ga. ground to the front, aside from grounding it as close to the battery as possible, which is what I did. Are there any problems with running a larger gauge like 2ga? I used 2ga for both positive and negative terminals. The ground runs to a ground distributor block which in turn goes to the alternator, head and intake mani as well as the firewall. Is 2ga fine? Thanks.

Nothing wrong with thicker gauge, but remember.. when you ground the battery to the chassis - the chassis itself gets grounded. The only reason to run an additional ground to the front of the car, is as a supplementary ground. You dont need to ground individual parts of the motor, just a good ground strap to the motor is all thats needed.

All that "HKS ground earth system" shit is useless.

[Sileighty_85]

Why are you so confident that you can stomp a hole in my ass? You dont know me, you dont know what kind of cars i have, and you're assuming that I care to even compare with your rolling laundry list of unstable modifications. If your car is anything like your wiring, its a mess.

Just a hunch.
Well if it was any kind of a good car you would have mentioned it.

How the Hell is a full built/balanced engine unstable mods?

You obilivously dont know a damn thing about engine internals.

You plethera of Electrical Knowledge probably come from that your car is such a piece of crap that you have to rewire somthing everyday when somthing craps out

[Sileighty_85]

All that "HKS ground earth system" shit is useless


ROTFL awsome Good thing I didnt pay for mine lol

[SHIFT_*grind*]

Well if it was any kind of a good car you would have mentioned it.

Maybe he doesn't feel the need to brag about what he drives because he doesn't base his self-worth on the opinion of some random wank on an internet forum? I don't know, just an idea.

Not me though, if someone on here were to say my car is slow, I'd be crying myself to sleep that night. You betcha.

[Sileighty_85]

Look Dude I'm just here to help out other ppl.

I did somthing it works for me perfectly I've never had a problem. Just trying to share my discovery with other ppl who are'nt "Baller Status" like you.

If you dont like it or these fourms anymore, Then dont come Back your wasting my time and everyone esles.

I could go on with this flame war forever but....I got better things to do.

Soo Peace Out Dude
Maybe See You On the Streets?

Mods Please :lockd:

[S14DB]

Yea, not that cheap...
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG1200A&N=700+115&autoview=sku