New turbo, injectors, and tune. SR WONT START!

[AntiVtec]

Hey whats up, I just finished puting in some DW 740's, new turbo, Z32 maf, enthalpy ECU and my car wont start. The first attempt it tried to start and bucked for a couple seconds then turned off. Since then nada. I have spark, but having fuel issues, the #3 and 4 cylinders are flooding with fuel, but 1 and 2 are dry. Im pretty sure i have a leaky injector prob but that shouldnt keep the car from starting it woiuld just run poorly right? The maf has wiring seems to be right, and since it attempted to start im guessing thats not the problem. Any one have issues like this?
Thanks for any feedback.:confused:

[statik]

A few things could cause flooding like that. Injectors could be leaking at the rail. Did you use new o-rings and lube them up before installing? Pop off the rail from the intake manifold, place a towel or rags under the rail and prime the rail, check for leaks. If the rail isn't leaking either the injectors are stuck open, or the ECU is tuned for much smaller injectors or possibly not working properly. When the ecu can't read the rom properly it will run like complete shit and just flood the motor.

[Z U L8R]

agreed ^ static

[AntiVtec]

Ok i found and replaced one damaged o-ring, car still wont start, it has spark but im not sure if its strong enough cus i dont know how bright its supposed to spark. No other sensors or parts where moved or change so im thinking its the maf or ECU. Or maybe the injectors stuck open like you said. But wouldnt the car still try to start with these problems? I mean it dosnt even attempt to after the first little sputter the first time. Thanks again and im open to all suggestions.

[rps13drift]

Double check your wiring on the maf! Also pull your whole fuel rail off your manifold still hooked up to the fuel lines and everything and put a plastic cup under each injector. Un hook your coil pack harness(for safety) and have a buddy or your mom crank the engine while you watch the injectors. If the are working good they should spray a fine mist in the correct firing order. If they are faulty they will either drible out fuel or not spray any fuel etc....

[AntiVtec]

Alright got it started. I cleaned the maf pins and unplugged the battery to reset the ECU and cranked it for a minute straight and it bucked and shrugged but started up. I have to do an oil change flush before i run it so ill keep you posted on how it drives.
Thanks for your help guys!

[s14DK]

I had an AFM problem as well which turned out to be the culprit,

Give that a shot and good luck

Stuff like this sucks =)

[AntiVtec]

Seems to be running good now, steady idle and a/f readings on the gauge. I havent gotten on boost too much so im not sure how its doing up top but once i break in the turbo and get my wideband ill post how it runs. Thanks again for all your help!

[statik]

Seems to be running good now, steady idle and a/f readings on the gauge. I havent gotten on boost too much so im not sure how its doing up top but once i break in the turbo and get my wideband ill post how it runs. Thanks again for all your help!

You probably just had crap loads of fuel from cranking and cranking with a leaking o-ring so it took awhile to get it all out + fowled plugs. If that ever happens again (flooding) just disconnect the CAS so the injectors stop firing and crank the motor over a bit.

[DOOK]

also, if you ever flood the engine like that again, change the oil after you diagnose your problem before firing it up, with so much gas getting dumped it can clear the oil off your cylinder wall and burn your rings out like RIGHT NOW.

I always change the oil and put an ounce or so down the top of the sparkplug hole, it smokes for a minute, but it's much safer.

[AntiVtec]

Yeah thats prob. what happened, and i did do the oil change as soon as it got started. I turned it off went to buy the oil, filter and flush. Thanks.