How cool your RB is running?

[AWDTurbo]

For those of you running the RB swaped s13, What does your water temps run at? And whats your rad/electric fan setup like?

[johngriff]

It has to run @ less than 210F to not overheat and die.

Cool it until it runs like that, other wise it dies. Redundant.

[AWDTurbo]

I never get over 190 but it runs like crap anything over 170, It gets a studder in the throttle when taking off.

[SHIFT_*grind*]

With my RB20 S13 that I used to have, I ran the slightly larger RB radiator, 1.3bar cap, new factory thermostat (actually, I might have had a Nismo one, I don't recall), one 12" FAL fan, and RedLine water wetter in the coolant.

Didn't have any problems, unless you count the time that I blew the hose off on the interstate and had to pull off, park for a while, then limp it home with a bottle of Aquafina in the radiator. But I chalk that up to poor attention to the hose clamp =\

[240love]

My rb runs at about 180F in normal driving, but up in willow springs it tends to want to go to about 210F after beating on it. Thats with 2 12' fans i think and a slighty bigger radiator than stock. Im getting my mishimoto rad soon so it should be better

[drift freaq]

RB's are hot running engines. In fact Sean at RB Motoring even stated that 200F was a normal temp for that engine. Now if your hitting 210 then thats getting a little steamy.

[Tenchuu]

RB is hot. mine is running NISMO low temp therm, Griffin radiator, N1 water pump, Dual FAL 12's. Brand new SPAL PWM progressive fan controller just ordered to replace the POS Hayden one i got that burnt out in 3 months. and as a note, DO NOT!! put in ant blade connectors in your FAL fans power connections. mine have melted through any and all parts that can wiggle a little. crimp only.

mine runs reasonably cool. on cold days the fans won't kick on when cruising around 50. but it took quite a while to get to that point. the RBs LOVE to overheat if you give them 1/2 a chance. and i will try to get temps soon.

[bardabe]

yeah mine ran pretty cool my water temp gauge never say anything over 190. and that was usually when i was stuck in traffic afterschool. on stop and go for about an hour.

Stock R32 Radiator
2 12" Fans
Distilled Watter + Watter wetter
stock pump
stock thermo
stock hoses.

[AWDTurbo]

I have an aluminum racing radiator, 2 12" fans and I have tried 3 different thermostats. It wants to run 190, I currently have no thermo stat in it and it runs 160 for a while then starts spiking up do to the radiator not flowing enough capacity. I wanna upgrade to a 2-3 core radiator but there hard to find. I really dont wanna pay 80$ for a Nismo 148*thermo stat when you can buy a regular 160* one for 15$ there making a fortune.

Mine has a problem of when it heats up to 180 it starts putting the radiator fluid in the reservoir. Anyone have this problem?

I never run this motor over 200* Not taking a chance.

[SHIFT_*grind*]

I seem to have had better luck than most everyone else in this thread with my RB running cool; this might be because I was running the stock SMIC, so nothing was blocking the air flow to the radiator.

If you have an FMIC, see if it's blocking the radiator much. Maybe make some ducting in your front bumper to get better airflow?

[cnile51]

If you guys are tracking them please note:

Remove your spark plug covers if there still on, I've come to find that on my r33 it traps soo much heat you end up burning through coil packs, and it runs super hot...

It looks raw and not as pretty but better than f*ckin shyt up.

-Nas

[johngriff]

Well when you have cooled the coolant as much as possible, move onto other things.

Your drive-ability problem sounds like a drive-ability problem, maybe the coolant temp sensor or coil packs overheating (stated above).

To cool it more, add an oil cooler.

[Z U L8R]

on a cold day it'll stay at 171, in traffic it stays at 177-180 depending on how long i sit there. it takes like 10 minutes of moving inches to go to 180 it hasn't gone passed that yet, even in traffic jams

i'm running an aluminum rad, a 16" autozone puller, a stock z32 thermostat (65 Celsius, converts to ? Farenheit), and unfortunately an N1 water pump........ just so all of you know

N1 WATER PUMP FLOWS LESS THAN STOCK WATER PUMP.

IT IS DESIGNED TO BE ON THE N1 RACE CARS THAT STAY IN HIGH ASS RPM'S FOR A GOOD LONG TIME. so when you're daily driving in traffic...the stock water pump is better.

now the n1 oil pump has a stronger spring so it puts out a tad bit more oil pressure than the oe one. however the casting is weak and i will never run an n1 oil pump ever. if i wanna rev my motor to 10k i'll do it with a jun or tomei ($$$$).

i'm not having any issues atm so i'm not yanking out my n1 wp. but if i build it again i would've used a stock wp.
stock wp > n1 wp

sorry for the caps :P
Dave =]

[AWDTurbo]

Are you guys running 1 core or 2 core Radiators? And were did you buy it from?

[Z U L8R]

err, i got mine from www.zcarparts.com but it's made for a 280z. get a koyo, fluidine, or griffin for your car and you'll be fine
Dave =]

[mayco_86]

mine rb runs 175 on a cool day and about 195 on a warm day out here in cali!

[AWDTurbo]

Mine is a single core made by Be Cool out of Chattanooga TN and its a single core, So im not going back single its gotta be double to triple or nothing. Im liking the Griffin!!! Looks big, Which is what I like.

[hybrid_eg]

i'm redoing my cooling again and fuck griffin, their core is no better then an s14 radiator.. the tanks are so tiny its not even funny! and i could just imagine how much water actually gets all the way across the radiator.. then again my pusher fan set up isnt helping that much but that will all be fixed very soon once they are in pull position and with a different radiator. I would like to see some numbers in the 80-85c..

[s13coupedrfter]

My rb25 runs good with no temp problems. Here's my set-up

s14 rad
FAL 2500cfm slim fans (any cfm less your wasting your time)
Nismo thermo
N1 water pump
Greddy cap
Setrab 12"x4"x 2" oil cooler with -10 braided lines
Vented frp hood

One of the best ways to keep rb's cool is to add a vented hood. rb swaps take alot of room in s chassis and leave very little space between the front of the eng and rad. The rad can heat soak very quickly because the hot air has no where to go. I ran DD at El Toro and ran 6-8 runs back to back and not once did the water temp needle rise and this was before the oil cooler install. I even noticed the inside of the car is cooler after the hood (car is gutted and acts like a oven). Hope this helps.

[s13coupedrfter]

on a cold day it'll stay at 171, in traffic it stays at 177-180 depending on how long i sit there. it takes like 10 minutes of moving inches to go to 180 it hasn't gone passed that yet, even in traffic jams

i'm running an aluminum rad, a 16" autozone puller, a stock z32 thermostat (65 Celsius, converts to ? Farenheit), and unfortunately an N1 water pump........ just so all of you know

N1 WATER PUMP FLOWS LESS THAN STOCK WATER PUMP.

IT IS DESIGNED TO BE ON THE N1 RACE CARS THAT STAY IN HIGH ASS RPM'S FOR A GOOD LONG TIME. so when you're daily driving in traffic...the stock water pump is better.

now the n1 oil pump has a stronger spring so it puts out a tad bit more oil pressure than the oe one. however the casting is weak and i will never run an n1 oil pump ever. if i wanna rev my motor to 10k i'll do it with a jun or tomei ($$$$).

i'm not having any issues atm so i'm not yanking out my n1 wp. but if i build it again i would've used a stock wp.
stock wp > n1 wp

sorry for the caps :P
Dave =]

When comparing the N1 water pump vs. stock how can the stock pump flow more volume when the N1 wp has way bigger fins and better seal. Even at lower rpm the N1 pump should carry more volume. Please explain.

[hybrid_eg]

any ideas on a least eye catching vented hood?? 180sx front.. i'm sure my new set up will work way better then before but just in case to keep something else as an option.. i hate aftermarket aero pieces but i know for a fact this would help, of course it would be my last resort if i really have to.

[Tenchuu]

When comparing the N1 water pump vs. stock how can the stock pump flow more volume when the N1 wp has way bigger fins and better seal. Even at lower rpm the N1 pump should carry more volume. Please explain.


the N1 has bigger fins but fewer of them. i think it has 5 or 6 compared to the stock 8 or 12.

note these numbers are me trying to remember from my swap a while back=, so they are just ballpark not actual.

and i have heard that it flows less at lower RPMs before, but never seen any hard sustaining figures on that.
IMOit is worth the upgrade on the few times i take it to the track to have the N1 helping out more than the stock. but once again that is my opinion, and everyone has them. plus my engine spends allot of time passing (90ish MPH) and cruising at around (70mph). since i don't spend that much time at low speeds i went with the N1. I would love to see some flow numbers @ different RPMs from nissan to nail this down once and for all.

[DJButton]

My RB20 runs around 180 to 190 guesstimate figures. I have daul Altima fans with a DiF fan controller set at 150 and 160... so on all the time, used generic coolant/anitfreeze and a bottle of Redline water wetter. Even at that it would overheat if driven for extended periods in boost, but I have a new Mishimoto now so hopefully that fixes it, and I bled it like 8 times. lol

[PRADOgy]

shit.. RB's are no joke with heat.

[AWDTurbo]

Well I have tried both Pushing and puller fans and the pushers seem to work better on my setup!!

I know my 3inch thick inter cooler isnt helping at all but I took the inserterd vents out of the bumper (s13) and drilled holes in it to flow more air, It seems to help alot but after 20 mins of driving it wants to heat up!!! Mine just seems like the rad is not able to keep up, So thats my next option, I have tried most everything else, going to try fabricating a better fan shroud to keep the air flow more consistant and see if that helps.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee40/rb25drag/0731072023.jpg

[((sr)) kelly]

Rice^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[SHIFT_*grind*]

Some grits mixed in there, too.

[TonKpilS14]

haha ya pretty rice.

[Anto]

If you're changing out your thermo, i'm sure it'd help by a few degrees if you drilled a small auxiliary hole in it.

I do that with my KA & it works.

[AWDTurbo]

HAHA!!!!! Rice? LOL!!!!! Too bad all you can see is the ass end when Im passing ya, and you better look close cause it will prob be a blur!!!

[AWDTurbo]

If you're changing out your thermo, i'm sure it'd help by a few degrees if you drilled a small auxiliary hole in it.

I do that with my KA & it works.


Hmm thats an Idea!! Never thought about it.

Ill have my broke rear end back together in a week I might try that. Currently I have no thermo in the block, Due to only racing it and not Street driving it.

Good Idea tho!!!

[Z U L8R]

as it is rb's bolemically ingest spark plugs. with winter coming up and no thermostat...not only will you be freezing your ass off, but you'll be replacing plugs at LEAST once a month.

i do the same as the other guy. a lot of my driving is 70+

i put in the n1 water pump under the impression that it flows more....and it may.....at high rpms. n1's have 6 fatter blades and a disc that kind of keeps the coolant from getting behind the blades, where as the stock has 8 little blades and no disc. to be honest the n1 definately LOOKS more efficient than the stock. when i was running the stock i had the stock up and down flow 280z radiator and it was fine until rush hour. in traffic it'd creep up. with the n1 and the stock radiator it didn't really creep as bad but it still did from time to time....with my new aluminum radiator it's perfect. i hadn't had a problem with it, so maybe i spoke too soon....i was going off of heresay, but i've heard from the majority that the n1 doesn't flow as much as the stock one because it was designed to be ran at high rpm's..........so honestly i can't explain it, sorry lol.
Dave

[s13coupedrfter]

as it is rb's bolemically ingest spark plugs. with winter coming up and no thermostat...not only will you be freezing your ass off, but you'll be replacing plugs at LEAST once a month.

i do the same as the other guy. a lot of my driving is 70+

i put in the n1 water pump under the impression that it flows more....and it may.....at high rpms. n1's have 6 fatter blades and a disc that kind of keeps the coolant from getting behind the blades, where as the stock has 8 little blades and no disc. to be honest the n1 definately LOOKS more efficient than the stock. when i was running the stock i had the stock up and down flow 280z radiator and it was fine until rush hour. in traffic it'd creep up. with the n1 and the stock radiator it didn't really creep as bad but it still did from time to time....with my new aluminum radiator it's perfect. i hadn't had a problem with it, so maybe i spoke too soon....i was going off of heresay, but i've heard from the majority that the n1 doesn't flow as much as the stock one because it was designed to be ran at high rpm's..........so honestly i can't explain it, sorry lol.
Dave

You are correct about the blades, stock=8 blades N1=6 blades. The N1 blades have almost twice the surface area (per blade) over the stock unit so flow difference under low rpm's is minimal if not better. The name of the game is cavitation... at high rpm's for extended periods of time the stock pump will cavitate thus reduced coolant flow. The addition of the disk as you said aids in coolant from getting behind the blades which produces more flow and is efficient at all rpm's.

BTW good job on your eng bay, looks sick.

[AWDTurbo]

I dont drive the car much unless its around the block or to take a friend for a ride. I mostly race it on the track.

The N1 pump sounds good,

Just wondering if anyone has attempted putting an electric motor in place of the belt to run the pump? For drag racing purpose?

Would be nice to have it running water through the block while its cooling off.

[Tenchuu]

So with a N1 pump, Griffen radiator, bendable metal rad hoses (no kinked stock shit), new SPAL PWM fan controller and Nismo low temp thermostat my car was running around 150 deg this evening at idle. but i think it is about 40 out too.

edit:

driving it around today, it is staying at about 165at idle after driving around allot. i can barley get it up to 180 and that drops off quick once i let it go back down to idle

[racebread240sx]

I am running a Koyo, Volvo fan pusher setup(it really blows(in the good way)), Autobone fan controller, GTR R32 front end conversion(which I only mention this because there is much more air flow through it), and a totally stock RB25 with absolutely no overheating, and that is here in muggy ass Georgia. Where humidity hits 100% all summer long.

[zilrb25]

my rb25 was over heating 2, it wa leaking from a small hose behind da block got it fix and it was still reading overheating. i got new samco hoses new nismo tmst new apexi gage and weter water. i think stock gage is not acurate, my apexi gage reads 70c all day on streets while dash reads normal, so far it has peak at 86c on freeway while da dash reads super H, so im trusting my apexi gage i hope. i keep hearind difrent readings and every one seems to say that there temp is fine anyone know whats the real normal temp on streets and freeway should be tnx........

[Drifterxxl180]

my rb25 was over heating 2, it wa leaking from a small hose behind da block got it fix and it was still reading overheating. i got new samco hoses new nismo tmst new apexi gage and weter water. i think stock gage is not acurate, my apexi gage reads 70c all day on streets while dash reads normal, so far it has peak at 86c on freeway while da dash reads super H, so im trusting my apexi gage i hope. i keep hearind difrent readings and every one seems to say that there temp is fine anyone know whats the real normal temp on streets and freeway should be tnx........

Thread is almost a year old.... well at least you searched...