Valve spring/EX IN Cam questions :p

[fwuffy squirrel]

Before I post I just want to say ive never done anything really to my car besides put in a shift knob lol everything ive had major help with. I really want to get into learning the right way and I just like to double check before I do anything so that being said......

Ive searched and been reading for about 2 hours and still dont know exactly what I am gana be doing.
Im thinking of getting new valve springs and Cams for my SR20 Redtop on my S13 so im not so scared of hitting 7k and so I could have just a little more pull. I already bought the HKS RAS.


Well there is so much to know about the valve springs and im quite confused.

http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=115672&highlight=valve+springs

The first post there shows the spring hight/rate/coil of each spring and I could tell that the HKS is close to stock which means its not that much of an upgrade and from reading people say the Comp is quite good but on these forums most people use the greddy for a rebuild.

I want nice cams but its for the street so nothing too aggressive I was thinking something like step 2 IN 264 12 lift and EX 264 11.5 BUT...

Some people are using 264 IN and 272 EX and they say it helps???
And I know the lift of the cams has something to do with the hight of the valve spring??? but im really too noob to really know. And what difference would the lift make between Step 1 and Step 2 if they are the same duration?
(http://www.hybridg.info/sr20_cam_list.htm)

Also some people say you need aftermarket valve spring retainers (dont flame me for this) but an ebay listing with Comp Valve springs say they work with stock retainers.

So if I were to get Comp Valve springs and HKS 264 in and ex and put it in with my HKS RAS would I run into any problems? or would it be better to get a 272 step 2 EX or both 264 step 1's idk

If you want to throw anything in your post explaining why I should or shouldnt buy a certain part for any reason go ahead just dont call me a noob...I tried :love:





EDIT: Also could I use a stock cam gear or would it be smart to upgrade to new one?
Does ECU need to be changed???
AND my basic reason for this upgrade is so that I could rev it to 7k for a max of a few seconds with no worrys

[Koopa Troopa]

I don't know why people like mixing and matching cams....

For you Tomei 256 cams would be more than enough. You won't need to change your valve springs nor would you be required to use a solid lifter. Rocker arm stoppers is all you need to be revving at 8k.

Adjustable cam gears wouldn't do you any good so there's no need to buy them.

Yes, you'll need to adjust your ECU.

Before you waste your money, you can rev to 7k on a stock SR all day long..

[fwuffy squirrel]

well there are a few people selling hks cams on here and im a broke ass collage student I can afford msrp haha but if there are tomei Cams for cheaper then =)

And in what way would I need to adjust my ecu?

Also just to make sure RAS will make it safe for 7k all day? I hear so many stories of "the weak SR20" and how they blow motors due to reving too high

[Koopa Troopa]

They blow motors cause they're idiots. I have a friend who fucking drove his 380whp SR with a rattling valve train for eyons.. Hell, he did his dyno run with a loose rocker arm.

When I was driving gymkhana my motor was rarely revving below 6k the entire 2 minutes or less I was on the course.

You'd have to adjust the fuel map with something like an SAFC. The higher profile of the cams will cause the stock ECU to hate life and dump fuel.

[fwuffy squirrel]

okay cool thanks for the help =)

[Sir]

BC cams + springs + retainers NEW is about $500, less if you look around.
there was a cam comparison by MBV on FA/ZT and they ended up being best bang for the buck.