Front brakes keep locking. . .

[D1S13]

Ok, sr is in and running.

have t3 top mount and it to me is dangerously toooo close to the master cylinder and brake lines

when i drive for maybe 15 minutes my front brakes look up and im force to pull over until they cool down.

i believe the turbo being mm away from the brake line may be heating up the brake fluid and cause the pistons to lock.


what else may be the cause or did i hit the nail on the head :-/

[Koopa Troopa]

Eh? Build a heat shield....

[D1S13]

Eh? Build a heat shield....

have some reflective shield similar to heat shield but reflects the heat instead of contining it.

I wrapped all the oil lines with it and will do the same with the brake lines tomorrow.

if i make a acutal heat shield what will be good material to use?

[Koopa Troopa]

sheet metal............................................. .................................................. ..........

[slothonaleash]

just throw a license place in between the manifold and bmc

[D1S13]

thanks for info guys

[Koopa Troopa]

Oh, why not do the ol' spacing of the hood to let some of that heat escape?

[D1S13]

Oh, why not do the ol' spacing of the hood to let some of that heat escape?

i was running with out the hood all night and i have the vented carbon fiber

[RedtopTech]

flush your brake system. Any moisture in the brake system will lower the boiling point of the fluid.

[mayco_86]

put a heat blanket on your piping thal help alot

[Skullavera]

What kind of brake fluid are you running? Maybe it would be a good idea to also run some RBF600.

[D1S13]

pretty mucht all the rotors are now more than likely going to have to be replaced

this is after 10 minutes of driving at night, i hade the heat shield on and used some wrap on the brakes line next to the turbo

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/rexnaz/10-13-07029.jpg

rotors were fire red

[Koopa Troopa]

Uh dude, brake fluid boiling isn't going to cause that. It's going to cause your brakes to not work. Maybe your piston is stuck and dragging?

[Chrischeezer]

yeah when your fluid boils your pedal will go soft!

your prolly thinking... heating the fluid.. it expands and pushes the caliper closed.. but if that was the case it would be blowing out the top of your reservoir.
your calipers are locked because they are bad... and u might need new rotors now too.... time for a big brake upgrade!!!!!

[Skullavera]

Uh dude, brake fluid boiling isn't going to cause that. It's going to cause your brakes to not work. Maybe your piston is stuck and dragging?

yeah when your fluid boils your pedal will go soft!

your prolly thinking... heating the fluid.. it expands and pushes the caliper closed.. but if that was the case it would be blowing out the top of your reservoir.
your calipers are locked because they are bad... and u might need new rotors now too.... time for a big brake upgrade!!!!!

I figured it would still be a good idea, but not the cause of the problem, to upgrade the brake fluid since he's most likely already cooked it.

As far as the rotors heating up that way, something is definitely causing the calipers to stick. I mean, does the car feel like it's dragging or as if they brakes are engaged when you drive? I can't help but think that it doesn't because it would be so obvious if it did and you would have mentioned it. You posted that they lock up but it didn't come across to me that way. Thinking about it, it may be the calipers themselves but they do relieve their clamping force after a while....maybe a problem with the brake booster? Too much vacuum pressure?

[FaLKoN240]

Check your brake pedal engagement.

[D1S13]

I figured it would still be a good idea, but not the cause of the problem, to upgrade the brake fluid since he's most likely already cooked it.

As far as the rotors heating up that way, something is definitely causing the calipers to stick. I mean, does the car feel like it's dragging or as if they brakes are engaged when you drive? I can't help but think that it doesn't because it would be so obvious if it did and you would have mentioned it. You posted that they lock up but it didn't come across to me that way. Thinking about it, it may be the calipers themselves but they do relieve their clamping force after a while....maybe a problem with the brake booster? Too much vacuum pressure?

YEs, it calipers are engaged and it feels like the car is dragging, as soon as i let off the gas the car pretty much stops


i just put a s14 Manual Brake booster because my s14 auto would not clear the top mount.

a local shop did the work so i assumed everything was good

and yes a mile down the road i feels the brakes compressing and grabbing so when i let off the gas the car comes to a complete stop.

i know after seeing the rotors get red hot they aren't going to be any good any more

[D1S13]

Check your brake pedal engagement.

the brake pedel is stiff/hard as heck.

i think they just did a bad job swapping the booster on my car and did not think to adjust every thing else. . . :ugh:

[racepar1]

It's probably your brake booster I had the exact same problem on a customer's toyota pick-up. Next time you drive it take a blunt force instrument of some kind. When they get locked whack the booster a couple of times and see if it will roll. If it does, replace the booster. It worries me that you are having someone else do your work for you though, you would be much better off doing it yourself. For sure it is not a brake fliud problem though.

[SnakeKack]

Well somebody owes you new brakes.

[D1S13]

It's probably your brake booster I had the exact same problem on a customer's toyota pick-up. Next time you drive it take a blunt force instrument of some kind. When they get locked whack the booster a couple of times and see if it will roll. If it does, replace the booster. It worries me that you are having someone else do your work for you though, you would be much better off doing it yourself. For sure it is not a brake fliud problem though.

yeah, i did the complete sr swap and bought the Full-Race t3 turbo kit and could not freaking figure out why the waist gate and turbo would not clear,

so i towed it to the shop, they could not figure it out so i did research and found it was the booster.

we just had HIN in phx last night and i was going to show my car but ran into the turbo problem earlier this week and still have my J O B w/mad hours so thats when i took it to the shop

i already have the Z calipers but need lines and will NOW have to buy rotors also,

[racepar1]

Why do you need rotors are they cracked? If they're just warped a bit machine them and re-use them. If you wanna replace them just because they were glowing, don't your wasting your money.

[D1S13]

thx for all info guys, i adjusted the fork and tested her for 30 minutes straight no now heat/locking.

thx again

[Koopa Troopa]

Why do you need rotors are they cracked? If they're just warped a bit machine them and re-use them. If you wanna replace them just because they were glowing, don't your wasting your money.


I'd replace those rotors and the pads... They're prolly warped, cracked and who knows what else from heating up that fast.

[nevaland9]

um a heated up master makes your brakes fadeeeee....bad calipers? maybe youve got the rod that goes thru the firewall to the bmc tightened wrong.

[Koopa Troopa]

um a heated up master makes your brakes fadeeeee....bad calipers? maybe youve got the rod that goes thru the firewall to the bmc tightened wrong.

We've already addressed this. Thank you.

[D1S13]

I'd replace those rotors and the pads... They're prolly warped, cracked and who knows what else from heating up that fast.

300z calipers and rotors will be in friday:2f2f: