SR wiring help please!!!

[Gjohnson7]

Ok, I'm still working on my SR rebuild and now I'm on to wiring. My engine bay is painted to I am going to start dropping in the engine tomorrow. Here's the deal, this wiring came out of a car that had a running SR for 2 years, but the wiring was a complete hack job.

I've been soldering and wraping for a while now and this is what I have.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2664000-2664999/2664385_72_full.jpg

I think the ECU harness looks a lot better now with the exception of the O2 sensor, which is actually missing.

But here's the issue. I confused with the engine/ battery harness. What are these wires for and am I missing something?

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2664000-2664999/2664385_73_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2664000-2664999/2664385_74_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2664000-2664999/2664385_75_full.jpg

Oh and I've been using these sites for the wiring http://www.frsport.com/sr20det-swap-engine-harness-wiring-guide-sr20-p-665.html and http://www.heavythrottle.com/

[Gjohnson7]

Anyone?????????????

[burnsauto]

could be one of the sensors on the tranny..its hard to tell from the pic.you may just want to mock it up, and see what you're missing..

[Gjohnson7]

Ok, I'm almost there. The engine is in and I had an issue with timming which I think I have corrected now, but what is this wire???

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2664000-2664999/2664385_91_full.jpg


Before when my timing was out of wack, I would try to start the engine and after a few cranks this wire would start smoking. Now, it has melted the black plastic connector, that attaches it to the firewall.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2664000-2664999/2664385_89_full.jpg

[driftn_silvia]

that i believe to be a ground wire.

[kasokuracing]

Yeah that is the ground wire. Same as on my Sr. If it is smoking you probubly have something causing it to get hot. See if any wires are exposed around it.

**How about a wiring diagram for the S13 with SR20DE. I am looking for one.

[statik]

you have grounding issues. If that ground is melting/getting hot its because you dont have enough grounds, everything is using that

[projectRDM]

Exactly. There should be a large 4gauge wire that bolts to the plenum.

[Gjohnson7]

you have grounding issues. If that ground is melting/getting hot its because you dont have enough grounds, everything is using that

Exactly. There should be a large 4gauge wire that bolts to the plenum.


Ok, that's what I was starting to think too! I will do some searching tonight and see what I can find. Thanks

Oh, and considering this is melted now, should I replace it with just another wire or something. It doesn't have to be that exact plastic connector, right???

[projectRDM]

It's just a female spade, cut it off or make a new piece of wire.

In reality, if you've got a good ground from the chassis to the block/head you don't even need that little ground, but I'd keep it and maybe bolt it to the firewall and the back of the head for a cleaner look.

[Gjohnson7]

Exactly. There should be a large 4gauge wire that bolts to the plenum.


Well, I made it to Lowes today and picked up some 4 gauge wire and made my own ground. ANd then guess what??


I got her started today!!!!

I haven't let her idle to long, yet since it was getting late but she does run. Seems like I have some ticking coming from the intake lifter on cylinder 1. Not sure if it will go away by it's self or if I need to pull it and bleed it.

I also have a lot of smoke at the moment, which I assume will burn off. I haven't let the car idle for longer that 10 seconds because my exhaust wasn't connected, just the down pipe.

I will need to do some tweaking, because the engine starts right up, but doesn't idle smoothly.

[zaneithan]

check vacuum, check timing, the crap will most likely burn off (if its the first time starting a fresh swap) mine pissed black crap and some other colored smoke for about an hour or two i think?, get a new set of plugs (or two) as the ones in there will probably be fouled (if not already) from all the crap its freshly cleaning out, check ALL bolts as far as vacuum goes (all clamps should be double checked, all hoses)

[Gjohnson7]

Alright, I uploaded a quick video so you guys could see what she runs like. Like I said before I think my lifter on cylinder 1 needs to be bleed. And I'll be picking up some gauges so I will be able to let her run longer and know what's going on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQDrEuL0am8

This is the longest I've ran the engine, because I don't have a oil pressure gauge or temp gauge and I don't want to run the engine blindly.

[Gjohnson7]

Ok, a little help guys. I was talking to my neighbor about running my engine without oil pressure and he let me borrow a oil pressure gauge he had laying around. So, I am planning on hooking up this gauge later on today and running the engine and I found the location of the oil pressure sensor. But since this is my first time and I'm really a noob to all this stuff. Do, I need to drain the oil before I pull this sensor? I know its attached to the block and the last thing I need is oil all over my garage floor. Thanks

Oh, and I finally found my O2 sensor plug, so now I can solder it back on to the engine harness.

[armand]

no you will not have to drain the oil, when you pull out the sensor a little will come out but not much,

[Gjohnson7]

Alright, I finally got the gauge connected and I've let the engine run a little to stop the smoking.

But here's the new issue. I found my O2 sensor plug and it was connected to the O2 sensor. I soldered the wires back into the harness, but this O2 sensor doesn't fit. The sensor is to large for the hole on the top of the exhaust manifold and it is too small for the hole on the Turbo elbow. Am I missing something. Do I have to buy a different O2 sensor for the swap?

Also, I have another question and I have tried searching and haven't come up with a lot and I'm currently at work so I can't do any searching at the moment. My Hatch had a SOHC gauge cluster in it and I swapped in the DOHC this weekend. The SOHC cluster didn't work of course, but I didn't have any other issues. After swapping the DOHC cluster in the time display blinks constantly when power accessory power is turn on and you can hear the H/L down relay in the engine bay clicking along with it. What would cause this? Does anyone have a write up on this swap so I can checking to see if something needs to be wired differntly? The cluster plugged right in, so I did not mess with the wiring. Thanks

[used240sxparts]

sounds like you have a black top o2 sensor (fat) and you need a redtop o2 sensor(skinny)

[ecuastyle84]

do you have the stock turbo elbow? or is it aftermarket

the dohc plugs right in...i had the same issue last week bout the time display blinking...turn out to be a fuse...check that or the relay...if nothing then it might be a bad cluster...was it working before the swap?

[ecuastyle84]

sounds like you have a black top o2 sensor (fat) and you need a redtop o2 sensor(skinny)

^^^
oh yea that can another thing too

[Gjohnson7]

sounds like you have a black top o2 sensor (fat) and you need a redtop o2 sensor(skinny)

That would explain it. Hmmmmm

do you have the stock turbo elbow? or is it aftermarket

the dohc plugs right in...i had the same issue last week bout the time display blinking...turn out to be a fuse...check that or the relay...if nothing then it might be a bad cluster...was it working before the swap?

The Turbo elbow is aftermarket. It is some generic brand, but it looks identical to the Megan Racing one that is 2 3/4 ".

The SOHC cluster didn't work, but the time display was fine. I'm not sure if the DOHC cluster worked, it came off of my buddies parts car. Right now, it's doing the blinking thing and none of the gauges are working. No tach, speed or temp. I haven't noticed if the gas gauge is working.

[ecuastyle84]

if its a megan elbow, thats what i have and i had to buy a different o2...i got a generic fat o2 sensor, 3 wire heated from heavythrottle.com

[used240sxparts]

nevermind...

[Gjohnson7]

Any ideas on the cluster issue????

[Gjohnson7]

ecuastyle84, do your remember which fuse it was? I immediatedly thought the H/L down relay was for the Headlights. But my headlights aren't even on the car right now, so I'm not sure what that would be an issue. Maybe I have a short somewhere with the headlights, but that still doesn't explain why it didn't do this with the sohc cluster.

[Gjohnson7]

Ok, I need some more help. Of course this is a redtop swap, but I want to make sure I am running the write ECU. Every since I installed my new DOHC cluster my check engine light has been on. So here's the deal. I have 2 ECU's that came with my swap. My spare ECU has a big 62 on it and the code # below it is 23710 50F00 then A11-000-g90

The ECU I have installed has the half the label cut off so all I have the the code. It's 23710 50F10 and A11-000-g91. What ECU is this? Is it the stock SOHC?

[zaneithan]

ecu #62 is the right one for redtop sr20det...make sure when you plug it in, it is plugged in ALL THE WAY, not loose, it can cause problems if its loose.....but dont overtighten it so much that you break it

[Gjohnson7]

Ok, here's another question that's got me confused. This harness was in a running Sr for 2 years but this doesn't look right compared to some of the wiring websites I've seen. Should there be 2 of these white connectors here or 1. I can only find 1 plug to connect this into.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2664000-2664999/2664385_94_full.jpg

[zaneithan]

your harness is really strange, are you sure it came from an sr?

[Gjohnson7]

I'm pretty sure, but I wasn't the one that picked it up originally. I compared it to the instructions on some of the wiring websits posted above and it looked correct. Currently, my engine is running, but my check engine light is on and the dash isn't working.

Anyone else??? Should I have 2 white connectors or 1?

[used240sxparts]

lol i wish i realized this before,all u need to do is take the sr harness cut off the white plug and swap it out with the one from the ka...you dont need both.

[used240sxparts]

that harness looks like it was hacked up before yu got it

[Gjohnson7]

Yeah, you have no idea. The person the did the inital SR swap needs to be dragged out back and shot.

When I pulled this harness out most of the wires were just twisted together and wrapped with electircal tape.

[Gjohnson7]

Ok, here's my new question. I swaped over to the 62 ECU, but I' still trying to get rid of the weird blinking thing. I don't think it's the cluster, because I hooked the ECU up and left the dash wires unplugged and I still get the blinking issue. Where should I start looking from here?

Also, now that I swapped to the 62 ECU the engine isn't running as good. It stumbles now when you give it gas. If I slightly open the throttle, it tries to die. Do the differnet ECU's have require the timming to be changed? What could be the issue? A bad ECU???

[zaneithan]

check your timing, check the tps, check grounds, check to make sure the ecu is plugged in tightly

[Gjohnson7]

How do you reset the TPS on a redtop SR?

[Gjohnson7]

Alright, well I haven't figured out the Tps issue yet, but I figure I should move on to my Tach issue. Here's my question, what do I need to check to make sure my I am getting a tach signal. Maybe I don't have the right sensor plugged in from the SR Harness to the engine.

[burnsauto]

Alright, well I haven't figured out the Tps issue yet, but I figure I should move on to my Tach issue. Here's my question, what do I need to check to make sure my I am getting a tach signal. Maybe I don't have the right sensor plugged in from the SR Harness to the engine.

Yellow / Red stripe =Tachometer signal

Yellow / Green stripe = Speedometer signal

Orange = Ignition start

Black (may be more than one ground) = Ground

Blue / Green stripe = AC signal

Blue / Black stripe = Water temp signal

#62 is the correct ecu, timing should be 15* before tdc (second mark from the right)

[Gjohnson7]

Yellow / Red stripe =Tachometer signal

Yellow / Green stripe = Speedometer signal

Orange = Ignition start

Black (may be more than one ground) = Ground

Blue / Green stripe = AC signal

Blue / Black stripe = Water temp signal


Yeah, I wired the harness using this info, but I was talking about what actually connects to the engine for the Tach signal. A buddy of mine was saying some after market tachs will use a signal from on of the ignition coil wires. Does the tach signal run off of the TPS sensor or speed sensor on the Tranny? I figured there must be a separate sensor for the tach.

[Gjohnson7]

Ok, I pulled my wire harness to look it over and make sure everything is wired correctly. Now here's my delima. I am able to match the wires below with the exception of the AC signal, but most of the other wires on the harness don't match. I know the writeup's say that they are on used for the consult, but I was planning on running AC and I don't know which wire to connect the Blue/green wire to. Also looking at the SR and KA connectors the wires are being pinned in at diffrent spots, is there more than 1 wire harness for these cars. My Chassis is a 90 SOHC and I'm wondering if the wire connectors and colors may have been different for the SOHC. Does that make sense? Right now with the harness installed the car starts and will Idle (not too smoothly, but that may have something to due with not running an 02 sensor) but my Tach is not working. Even after swapping in the DOHC cluster. And like I said above, I get a weird clicking from my headlight down relay even though the headlights aren't on the car. All help is appreciated.

Yellow / Red stripe =Tachometer signal

Yellow / Green stripe = Speedometer signal

Orange = Ignition start

Black (may be more than one ground) = Ground

Blue / Green stripe = AC signal

Blue / Black stripe = Water temp signal

[Gjohnson7]

Anyone?????????????

[Gjohnson7]

Ok, well since no one has an answer to the last question, how about this one.
I can't understand why this was even done. It's a little hard to see, but there are 2 plugs that were apparently cut and partially wired in when they did the inital swap on this chasis. Am I missing something, cause from what I've read this isn't something that needs to be done.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2664000-2664999/2664385_95_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2664000-2664999/2664385_97_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2664000-2664999/2664385_96_full.jpg

I'm thinking this might be causing my other issues.

[Gjohnson7]

Bump!!!! Anyone?????